Passat (B6) :: Engine Just Turned Off When Attempted To Down Shift Using Paddle Shifter
Nov 30, 2012
I own a 2007 B6 Passat 3.6 (non 4mo) Sport with paddle shift:
Yesterday when exiting off the highway the engine just turned off when I attempted to down shift using the paddle shifter. I managed to start it again while still moving by putting it in to neutral and restarting. It started right back up and didn't seem to complain again all the way home.
This morning while driving to work, on the highway, i needed to accelerate to change lanes and pass a slow moving vehicle and the car didn't respond for possibly 2-3 seconds, it then after a few seconds, kicked down, accelerated but the engine light came on.
Once the Engine light came on the gear indicator in the dash display turned to solid blocks (as opposed to only highlighting the current gear).
Since then, the shifts have been very harsh and abrupt, when coming to a stop it seems to shift very hard in to first and doesn't seem to know how to function correctly at on/off throttle inputs.
I haven't managed to connect it to VCDs.
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This question probably applies to all VW but curious as to how the paddle shifter operates on the Passat. If i were to install it would i have to move the DSG gearbox into the manual mode in order to shift or could I leave it on "D" and shift down and up at any time?
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I posted before that i my airbag light just popped on unexpectedly I didn't change the radio or anything now I have no paddle shifter control, no horn/ no lights absolutely no power on my steering wheel. Is something disconnected under the seat. How to solve this problem...
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I just bought a 2012 Passat TDI SEL, and wanted to add a steering wheel with paddle shift. The existing information I found is not clear. I ended up ordering the wrong steering wheel and had to send it back. So I thought I would post some info FYI:
The air bag mounting is not the same for all the newer VW steering wheels. While the splines, and external look is identical the 2012 passat uses a different style of clip to hold on the air bag. This means if you get a Jetta type steering wheel your air bag will not work. Also, the steering wheel controller is completely different in the passat. The controller is not mounted in the center of the steering wheel. The best way to go is to get a steering wheel from a Passat V6 SEL. This wheel is plug and play, you only need the wheel and VCDS programming (airbag and harness are reused). The part number for the BLACK leather color WITH paddles is 561 419 091 HE 74 ...
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It is a bit 'of time that my engine have some loss of power with bumps that is not much noticeable and, for now, only just annoying while driving. But lately it has happened that, especially with the AC turned on, the engine dies during gear shift. I noticed that when this happens, the engine rpms drops more fast than normal, causing rough idle for 3-4 seconds (it go down to ~4-500 rpm) and subsequent automatic acceleration from the ecu to ~1200 rpm to settle again to the normal idle (~700 rpm). When this happens if the AC is on, sometimes the engine dies.
I checked the idle control valve and it work good and it's clean. The spark plugs have less than 5000 km, spark wire are good and also coils are in line with the reference values, Primary Coil 0.87 Ω 10% at 20 C (68 F), Secondary Coil 13.0 kΩ 15% at 20 C (68 F) (I don't have the coil on plug but external coil version, like this: [URL] ....)
The only thing a bit 'strange that I noticed is that the throttle position sensor has a strange range when i check it with an obd2 scanner. The idle % reported is 8,7% and at full throttle is 87,5%. I never removed or changed this sensor. If I remember correctly once I unplugged its connector, but the engine was turned off. Is this the normal range??? There is some reset procedure for this sensor?
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Today I parked my 2014 Toyota Corolla while the shift was in drive and I turned off my engine. I let go of the brakes and it began to move backwards. I then realized what happened and shifted to Park and took out the keys and turned the engine back on to park it correctly. The on screen display seemed to restart or something when I did so. Will this hurt my vehicle? It is a CVT transmission by the way.
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What this may be. 2004 Accent Automatic. We just purchased recently for my daughters fist car. Today when leaving the house the car stays in first gear, you can move the shifter through the gears but it wont shift up. Reverse is fine. Checked the oil level in Neutral when hot and it was ok. Hooked up my code reader and there are no Codes. Car only has 85,000 KM on it.
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I have an 01 Jetta, 2.0L, 5 Speed manual transmission.
The issue seems to be that the shifter wont shift the transmission "all the way" into 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear. When I shift into the gears that are forward on the shifter, it will go into gear, but then the shifter (in the car) moves back toward neutral a little. I can drive in 1st no problem, but in 3rd and 5th some weird stuff happens...
While driving, when I shift from second to third I have to keep my hand on the shifter otherwise I get kicked out of gear. Also, when I drive on the highway, I periodically get kicked out of 5th gear if I don't keep my hand on the shifter (usually, when I let off the gas).
Anyway, being that I've fixed many problems on many cars by searching forums and google, I spent the last few days trying to figure out the problem by looking through the forums, but I have yet to find a solution. I tried adjusting the shift linkage using the method described in the dieselgeek video on youtube [URL] ...., but it didn't work. I'm pretty certain it's not the shifter bushings because i have almost no play in the shifter in neutral.
I had someone cycle through the gears while I watched under the hood, and its clear that the cable that controls the forward and back part of the shifting is not pulling back far enough on the counterweight on the transmission. (When shifting into 1st, 3rd, and 5th.) When the shifter puts the tranny into these gears I can still move the counterweight on the tranny further than the shifter will pull in in the same direction.I tried adjusting the linkage to compensate for this, but the cable is as far into the cable end as it will go...
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I have a 5 speed 01 wolfsburg. I was about to leave my driveway tonight and went to shift into 1st and the shifter was all loose. I could not shift into any gear, the shifter was just flopping around. Earlier in the day the neutral jiggle was much looser than it usually is, which I thought was peculiar.... So I guess that was it breaking.
Question is: how do I fix it? I looked under the hood and all of the linkage to the transmission looks good, I think it has disconnected/broken under the shift knob... I've looked around online and cant find anything for this year... or replacement parts for that matter.
I guess im going to have to get the car up on jacks and remove the heat shield to get to the bottom side?
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Decided to see if any of you fine gentleman could offer some insight into my shifting problems. OK so here it is. I have a short throw shifter and it shifts perfectly at lower RPM's ( under about 3k) anything over that and I have to somewhat force it into gear. I also noticed that when in neutral the shifter seems off centered to the right about an inch roughly. I had the R into VW for some other work recently and they said it was prob the short throw itself so I ordered a new one which should be here tm. Hopefully that will take care of this problem
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'04 RX330 AWD 116k...Recently noticed the shifter is no longer going into drive. When placed in the "D" position (on the right hand side of the "4-D" slot), the dash indicator reads "4". I have verified the trans is only shifting as far as 4th (70mph=3000rpm w/stock tires). ECT/Snow is not turned on.
To clarify, the problem is not physical/mechanical as far as the shifter itself...the shifter will drop to the correct "D" position, but the car says, thinks, and acts like its in "4".
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My wife's 2004 GX 470 was not going into low gear from 2nd, so of course I used some pressure and i heard something break inside the gear shifter (sounded plastic), now the shifter won't stay in 4th from drive and will shift out of park even when the car is off. Could this be the shift lock control? I know the linkage was probably the fault initially when not going into L from 2nd gear, but now I have this issue to deal with.
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Yesterday on my way home my engine turned off. I had just turned onto a side street so i went to give it some gas. Nothing. I tried again and still nothing. I looked down to make sure i was actually pressing the gas and not the brake and and thats when i noticed that the speedo and rpm gauges both were at 0. They were still lit up and the radio was still on and the windows still worked. So i pulled over and a few minutes later i tried to start it back up and it started up fine. I have been driving it all day and i have not had any problems.
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So today my brother was changing oil and he turned on the car after the pan and filter were drained and the car was on for good 15-20 seconds before it was turned off. It was driven a few miles after I put in the oil.The car is running but the engine seems a little louder than before. Just wanted to know how significant of damage has been caused and what to expect in the next few days, months, years!!?? If it ever gets to see them.
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So lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
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I've been having problems with my column shifter ever since I installed a Pioneer shift cable probably about 3 years now. I was told and also thought that the cable would loosen up after awhile but it never has. I had some put it on and I watched him do it. He seemed to have some trouble because it took him a long time under the dash. It shifts so stiff that over a period of about 2 years it finally broke the end of the shift tube one night. Luckily I was able to fix it the next day by getting a spare without missing any down time. It was still just as stiff with the other shift tube. It finally broke the plastic on my shifter tonight, not necessarily whatever is causing it but because it takes so much effort to shift into Park, Reverse or Drive.
I think the plastic may have cracked over time. Luckily I had another one at home along with another shift tube. I didn't replace the shift tube this time but I did remove the caps and smear some grease on the bushings to see if it would make it turn. I looked further down at the end cap that broke last time and sure enough one of the bolts was backed almost all the way out. I retightened it tonight too. That's what happened when the bottom broke last time. One of those bolts backed out and it cracked the housing. It works now but if you go all the way to 1st to get back to anywhere it really takes a tremendous amount of effort to get it to shift. Something is not right and I cannot pinpoint it. I know they offer brand new shift tubes but I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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The fan inside my air filter box, or turbo charger intercooler (not sure of correct technical term) is running on and off for several hours after engine has been shut off. I believe this is running my battery down. Is this intercooler/fan suppose to run after the engine is shut off?
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I have a 2001.5 passat and the check engine light turned on. It just so happens that whenever i put gas in the car.... and try to start it back up, it won't start! it takes about 3 or 4 tries for it to start up.
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There is a fan noise every 30 seconds in the engine compartment behind the passengers headlight area. Is there a fan motor there? Could it be disconnected without hurting anything? I can't determine if there is a fuse related to this or not.
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Why the passat engine stays very hot after hours on turn off? We have a Touareg and the engine does not get that hot and cools faster.
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Last night someone broke into my 2000 Ford Ranger (3.0L, automatic, 2wd, extended cab) and tried to steal it from my driveway. For some reason they didn't complete the theft. Looks like they forced open the rear sliding window to gain entry. The steering column is damaged where you insert the key. The rotating part where you insert the key that has a slit is laying on the floorboard, along with a plastic ring that has stranded wire around it. (I think this is part of the anti-theft system that senses the smart key).
Anyway, I can insert the key and turn the ignition but nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. The "theft" lite on the dash is flashing more quickly than normal. The thief didn't damage anything else but did take the owners manual from the glovebox. This is just an everyday truck that is over 10 years old, nothing special about it, so I guess it was an attempted joyriding incident. Police said they had another vehicle in the area stolen and later found abandoned. I need this truck to drive to work, what do I need to do to be able to start it? There's not a lot of money in our budget for bigtime repairs right now.
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