Passat (B6) :: Engine Lurches While Stopped And CEL Came On / Code P0455
Jul 12, 2012
2006 2.0t 82k on the clock....
Just got back from a round trip to HHI; 11 hrs one way. When I stopped to fill it up on the way back, went to start the car and it would crank but not fire. I let it sit and tried again, same result. I then tried to start while feathering the gas pedal and got it to start. No CEL, seemed to be functioning normally after that.
Monday I'm heading into work, pull up to a stop light about a mile from my house; while stopped, the engine lurches, not violently, but lurches and the CEL comes on. Haven't had time to take it to my shop, no VAG, I'm filling up today, same thing...won't start without feathering the throttle. Took it to O'Reilley's and borrowed their CAN and it pulled the P0455 code. The guy behind the counter "looked it up" and said that I needed a new gas cap due to the EVAP system leak portion of the code.
Next Thursday I'm dropping my car off at the dealer to have the PCV update taken care of on VWOA's dime (Service called me out of the blue and said my car was on the list for the update.) From what little research I've done, some had success with the new PCV, some had success with the cam follower replacement (mine is still original and I haven't checked it yet), and some have had success with replacing the regulator valve/breather kit.
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New owner of a 2003 1.8TPassat (29,000mi) as of the last 2 weeks and have just had my MIL come on. Scanned it at home with my Actron CP9125 scanner and got this code (P0455) which reads in the scanners manual as "EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large)". Didn't know if this was a generic description of the code or VW has a more specific definition. What precisely this is in reference to, gas cap, vacuum hose????? Or what VW's actual description of this code is?
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2004 XC90 T6. Local Volvo dealer (Bangkok at the time) said my check engine light was due to the O2 sensors going bad. I changed out the one under the car, then my wife threw out (accident) the other so I didn't change the one accessible from the hood. The check engine light went away so I figured that was that.
Fast forward a year later, I buy an Autel Maxiscan MS509 and now I'm getting check engine code P0455 which is probably the O2 sensors I didn't replace. Other than deductive reasoning, is there some way to look at the data on my OBD reader to confirm which O2 sensor is bad?
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I just joined the forum mainly to care of my dads 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe but also I got a check engine light on my way home from work last night.
From last night I saw that oil was all over the timing belt. Today I inspected it with a Coworker and his OBD II reader.
Error Code was P0455, EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak).
Now the oil leak is stronger since the oil spills is on hood (inside hood). I will make a picture tonight when I get home.
I personal think it's leaking from a tube/ valve on top of the timing belt (picture will show more tonight). Thinking of cleaning the timing belt area, then drive a little around or leave it in idle to spot where the leak is from.
Common issue? I googled around but since P0455 is a common issue (on my 9-2x as well) I couldn't find anything about this I am also limited from my search since I am currently at my work PC incl. strong firewall.
I will see if google let me find a picture...
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Yesterday from the smart center of Rochester, MN I bought a 2013 Smart fortwo Pure with 19k miles. This evening the Check Engine Light came on and it is code P0455.
No other dash lights are on and I have not even touched the gas cap yet. Should I clear the code? Take it to the dealer? Tow it to the dealer?
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Now, I just bought a 07 Yukon which seems to be in a great condition. The check engine light just popped up so I went to a mechanic and he said the code is p0455.
He did a smoke test and showed me that smoke is coming out of the rear of the vehicle at the gas tank area and the car needs the vent valve solenoid changed, but it's only sold at dealer.
So u went to dealer and got this part and decided to change it myself which was quite easy and fun.
I went back to clear the light, then a week later the light came back on, so I went back to him thinking maybe I didn't do it right, so he did another smoke test and sure enough we see smoke coming out of the rear again, so I looked under the car and saw it was coming out of the end of the vent valve assembly which I think is a small air filter. Is that normal? Or is the part defective?
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I have a 2006 Pontiac Montana SV6 with 80,000 miles on it. Recently the dashboard warning "check gas cap" has started coming on. I have replaced the gas cap and cleared the code and it is doing it again. It seems like it is more likely to do it when the gas tank is 1/2 or less full but it also did it today with almost a full tank. The code from the computer said P0455, what this could be?
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Check light came on and I had the code read at AutoZone. There were 3 codes but I'm pretty sure 2 are old (the check light previously came on a couple of months ago and I had it checked, then went off on its own). My car seems to be driving fine.
The new one is P0455. Large EVAP leak. I'm hoping it is just my gas cap.
The other 2 (older) codes are P0456 (small leak) and P0113 (IAT error).
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Car has about 75K miles. Son has the car out of town (again), at school. He reported CEL (SES?) light on; "what should I do?" Told him to have it checked. He has trusted mechanic nearby, so I told him to go there. They say they don't just read codes ("You can get Autozone to do that"); they do diagnosis.
Report: Code P0455 (gross evap leak). Did smoke test; nothing. "Did you maybe have it running when you filled gas tank?" (No.) They reset the CEL, and sent him on his way.
Should we be satisfied if CEL stays off? What else to try or to look for if same code comes back?
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99 2.5L. P0455. I'll just be driving and the CEL will come on and stay on. I pull the code and get a P0455. Gas cap is brand new and I can wipe the code and it will come back a few days later.
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Has a P0401 code EGR unSufficient flow. Ive read several things that it could be, from a DPFE sensor to the EGR valve it's self our that the port going into the TB could be plugged. Truck drives fine does not have a miss or anything noticeable when driving other than the CEL, trucks a 4.6 with 200k on it. Forgot to mention it sometimes gets a P0455 code but i assumed that is gas cap. or could it be related?
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I have an 06 sonata 2.4l--last week the CEL came on so I took it to my mechanic and he said it was p0455 which is a large vapor leak in fuel assembly. We tried tightening the gas cap and resetting the code with a scanner but it came back on a day or two later. I have never overfilled my tank and i do not smell gas anywhere. the only real symptom (maybe non related)is my speedometer , it works but it is just a little slow to react when increasing or decreasing speed.---my gas mileage seems to be normal.We got under the car and looked around and couldn't notice any obvious tears in any lines -- should i try buying a new gas cap?--I was thinking it may be speed sensor but my mechanic said if it was the speed sensor , my tranny should be shifting funny , my trans shifts fine. I am at a loss and don't want to have to go to dealer with this.
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I keep getting this code even after fixing hoses with leaks. I am guilty of over filling my gas tank all the time can this have damaged the vapor canister on my 2001 dodge caravan....
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I own a 98 f-150 5.4 with 70,000 miles. I get a check engine light (code p0455-large leak detected in evaporative emission control system).
Replaced the gas cap with an after market 'stant' ( I believe was the manufacturer) brand. The check engine light went away for 4 days then came on again.
No obvious vacuum line leaks.... Puzzled.
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I have a 2008 nissan frontier SE 4x4 with 71K on her. I'm getting two codes from my checking engine light P0455 and P0447. The gas cap is new and tight.
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I have searched a decent amount on this and it seems like there is a whole list of items that could cause these problems. The car is a 2008 Passat 2.0T with the tiptronic. It is the early 2008 so it still has the FSI motor. It only has 53k on it and literally just came out of warranty a month or two before this all started happening.
It all started with the CEL coming on and the went into limp mode. We shut it off and turned it back on, the car went into limp mode again but upon the 3rd restart the car started and ran just fine. Then for a few weeks we just had a CEL (I don't know what code it was because I never scanned it at the time). Now as of lately the car is have a terrible rough idle, and at stops it will start kinda shaking and lurching forward. Sometimes it will also have a noticeable misfire upon start up. Also after going at highway speeds for some time the car will start to produce a squealing noise when not producing boost.
A few days ago I scanned it and these codes came back:
P0110
P0101
P0102
P0104
P0108
P0171
The first 5 IIRC are related to misfires and the P0171 is a lean code.
At first I thought this was the PCV valve because I had read about the lurching and the squeal that someone else had from that but after reading up more on things I am worried the P0171 is from the cam follower.
At this point I am just very tired of hearing my wife constantly complaining about the car. I want to try and figure this out without throwing part after part at it. I can't afford to buy items just to find out they aren't fixing it.
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Changed the spark plugs, but the engine still idles rough while in drive and stopped. It's fine in park or neutral. P0303 popped back on today while warming up the car. Changing plugs significantly improved the idle...but it still is rough.
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Yesterday as I crawled my way through heavy traffic on my drive home from work, my car started lurching unexpectedly. When I let up on the gas, the lurching subsided. I was able to recreate the behavior multiple times on my drive home, as well as while parked in my driveway. As the RPM exceeded 2500 the engine would lose oomph/power and the RPM would start stuttering/oscillating between ~2500 and ~2800 RPM. The behavior was identical regardless of which gear I was in (D1, D2, D3, D, or N), regardless of my speed, and regardless of how aggressively I was pressing the accelerator pedal. Every time the RPM hit 2500, the engine freaked out.
This morning, it did NOT happen when I tested it briefly. I was able to rev up to 3500-4000 RPM without any issues. I did read a case online in which someone experienced a similar issue that only manifested after the engine had been running a while. My car has ~173k miles on it, and this is its first engine issue. What might be causing this?
Video attached; also located here: [URL] ....
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Is it normal on the 2.0T that when you are driving and stop at a red light to get vibration that you can feel in the car and hear in the motor? As soon as you let off the break it stops and the engine stops the noise. I don't drive the car enough really (my wifes) to know if it is normal or if this just started. It is an 07 and just turned 12k on the weekend trip. Also, having a problem on Sat radio with there being a high pitch hum in the back ground? [IMG] [URL] ...
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Weird problem on my Passat today. First the engine light came on...followed by rough idling. It smooths out when moving, but rough again when stopped. Noticed that turning ON the AC makes it a little smoother...but when you turn off the AC, resumes the rough idle.
Already made an appt with the dealer tomorrow...but wanted to see if this problem is familiar to other owners. Either way, I will update once the dealer finishes diagnosing the problem.
The car has been perfect up to 30k miles...now 2 problems in the last month.
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I just had my 1998 Passat 1.8T with 97000 miles checked since the engine light came on. It started this afternoon and the car ran just fine. I took it to an Advance Auto and after they plugged in the OBD tool it came back with the code PO 116. Engine Coolant temp CKT Range/Performance.
The fellow decided to clear the code and then the car would not start. I waited for about 15 minutes and the car started with some hesitation and the light was out. When I got home I let the car sit for a few seconds and it started perfectly like nothing ever happened.
Does that mean that the temperature coolant sensor is bad??? I have a Hanes manual and apparently is not too difficult to do. Would I have to partially drain the radiator?
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