Just had the unfortunate scene of seeing the engine light go on but I knew something has been up for a couple weeks just couldn't figure it out but today when I came to a stop my car starts revving slightly without me doing anything and when in park the rpms just increase slightly not alot.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 toyota corolla with a manual transmission that I just bought that has about 130,000 miles on it. It runs very well except for it runs out of oil about every 150 to 200 miles. The car does not seem to be leaking oil, however revving the engine in the slightest causes the car to smoke from the exhaust pipe. We tried changing the oil as well as putting in high mileage oil and sea foam motor treatment. This worked slightly but not much.
View 9 RepliesOn my way to the grocery store my car's RPMs started to pulse up and down (between 1 and 2) when driving. While stopped at the red light it would vibrate very hard. When i put it in park the RPMs would rise fast before i shut it off. It did the same things on the way back home plus the check engine light came on. A few hours later i put a little oil in it and drove it around my neighborhood and it didn't do any of the things it did that morning.
View 5 RepliesI bought a new 2014 Prius plug-in base model two weeks ago. No problems until yesterday.
The engine has started revving really loudly on occasion. It's much louder than the normal ICE noise in hybrid mode - 2 or 3x as loud (much louder than our regular Honda Civic engine).
When the revving happens when I'm in EV mode, the EV mode light on left side of dash stays on (but it's clearly not in EV mode). The EV and Eco symbols above the power bar go blank. The MPG won't go above 25 mpg, no matter if I'm not touching the accelerator. Switching from EV to Hybrid mode and back does nothing.
The only way to get it to stop is to stop the car, turn it off, turn it back on, and then it's fine - EV or Hybrid mode, it sounds normal again. I have not tried to drive more than a mile with the noise to see if it goes away. It occurs when:
-If the fan, heat or defrost is on when I turn the car on - turning them off doesn't stop the revving.
-If I switch the fan, heat or defrost on when stopped at a light - turning off doesn't stop it. (But it doesn't happen if I turn heat or defrost on while moving in EV or Hybrid mode.)
-If I switch from EV to Hybrid mode while stopped at a light.
The weather is cooler now and I'm fine with the ICE starting to warm up the engine, the compartment, etc, but the revving noise doesn't seem normal.
I'll start out by stating that I failed to get new transmission fluid, which definitely caused the issue. So let's go back to December 26th. Check engine light came on, and I assumed it was for the oil (which has never happened before, suspicious). So I changed the oil, and took it for a test spin. Well, a mile later, I was going up a hill, and the clutch started slipping. Yes, I know, it's an auto, but I know the feeling of a clutch slipping... no power, engine revving up, jolting forward when slip stops. At this point, I drive it home without much incident, a few slips and I part it but don't drive it again. Checked the engine, and transmission fluid was out. Filled it back up, seemed to take care of the problem of slipping, but now there's a new problem...
The new problem is the following. Every once in a while, going uphill or applying full power in first gear, the clutch will slip. Also, this happens 99% of the time, first gear to second gear is a bit of a jolt, not much more than normal, but it's noticeable. And the transmission is kind of loud too, first gear sometimes sounds like there's a marble in there. Is this a rebuild? Will it work itself out?
Here is the case. I drive a 150 mile trip once a week, mostly 60-65 mph highway. Well in the last 3 months it started randomly bogging down slightly with the cruise on. I can be going along and its like a strong gust of wind hits the truck from the front. It will make the engine bog then it like releases or frees up and the truck carries on.
I also noted on my edge evo (not programmed just plugged in for the gauges) that it shows the engine load shoot from about 30% cruising to about 80% when it have its issue then on the sort of POP release the load goes back down to the normal range. The entire bog down only lasts about 3-5 seconds and I can power out of it by pressing the gas. It may happen 15 times on the trip may only happen once or twice...very random...
Things I have tried
Replaced plugs and COPS
Replaced FPDM
Cleaned MAF and TB
Replaced Air Filter
Changed Oil
Fuel Filter changed in November
The engine light in my 2001 Passat all of a sudden started blinking when I started it this afternoon - for no apparent reason. It feels like it's going to stall and is idling kind of loud.
View 3 RepliesLets start at the beginning. About two weeks ago my girlfriend got a check engine light and the car started missing( 98 Passat 1.8T, 5 speed). Checked obvious things like fuel delivery-good. Pulled coil packs and had no spark on #2 cyl. Investigated more and found one of the pins on the ign. control module was shorted. Felt pretty sure that was the problem since everything else checked out. Ordered a Huco installed it and that fixed the problem except the car seemed slow reprogramming to the new part. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory and that seemed to do the trick.
About 2 weeks later my GF is coming home and fortunately it died in front of the apartment. Checked everything again. Getting fuel, no wires shorted on ign. or fuel harness plus they all get power just no signal when checking with an LED tester. Ign. module was good also. Checked speed sensor for resistance per the book it was good. Tried a new Camshaft Pos. Sensor hoping that was the problem, no luck. I believe it must be the computer. I'm trying to get one from a salvage yard. I don't know if the old computer can be reprogrammed or not. Also was wondering if the dealer(where I really do not want to go) can test the computer somehow and tell me if it is bad or not(don't know if I would trust them anyway), just wanted to include that option.
Pretty nice condition 2003 1.8t Passat 5 speed yesterday with 45k miles. nice price, mint interior, only a few minor blemishes on the bumpers.
Anyways, I was noticing that the gas pedal needs to be pushed in about half half before the car wants to move. I do not believe it was the clutch going bad as the engine wasn't revving when i was letting the clutch out, it just didn't seem to move until the gas pedal was half way down. again, no clutch slippage, engine was not revving.
Just this week my ESC light has come on and stayed on. Seems like the engine has been revving a bit higher too along with this light. Could this be a coincidence? The car doesn't seem to handle any differently. How to get this light off?
View 3 RepliesOur 2005 Prius with 160,000 miles is displaying warning lights and the gasoline engine is reving at times and not shutting off when the car is at a stop light.
The dealer says it is throwing a P3000 and P0A80 codes. I asked for subcodes, the dealer doesn't know what I am talking about.
The dealer wants to replace the hybrid computer for $900 and if that doesn't fix it they want to replace the hybrid battery for $3500.
Car info:1997 Mercedes E420, ~186,000 miles Check engine electronics light always on because of unrelated evaporation censor issue. Having issues with my car, and my mechanic is a little stumped.
Story: Maybe in the last week or two, noticed the faintest flutter of the engine when stopped at red lights. Was faint, seemed like no big deal. This last Friday, had been driving 45mph for 3-5 minutes (cool day). Stopped at red light, engine freaks. Got intermittent revving and lurching of whole car. "Acc.skid control" warning light comes off. I pull over in a fast food parking lot, turn car off, calm down cuz I was freaked out by aggressive lurching. Pulled over maybe 20 minutes. I decide to drive to my mechanic who happened to be nearby. Turn car on, and it stalls four times, in the time it took me to back out of the parking space I was in and get to the driveway.
Where things get interesting:Mechanic replaced "failing mass air intake sensor". Car seems 95% fixed...I go to pick t up today, and the same issue seems to be happening, but way less dramatic. Did a ride-along to show mechanic the issue (because they couldn't replicate it), and he said: Seems like the engine doesn't know what level to idle at, and hesitates to shift gears. Issues appear more when driving slow. This has only been an issue since Friday. Never noticed ANY other signs of transmission issues. He says he's not sure what to do, and will try checking the transmission fluid and clean the throttle body.
I just turned on my car to move it out of the drive way and i noticed it starts rising when cold probably like 25-50 rpm then goes down, then back, and so on. i never noticed this before. is it a cold start assist or something like that ? i dont believe it does it when cold ( never noticed )...
View 11 RepliesI've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
View 14 RepliesSo I got gas 4 days ago and today the check engine light came on afterwards. Went to auto zone to read code and it had to do with the gas pressure being slightly low (gas cap). So I got gas and resealed the gas cap. Well, it's been about 2 days since then and it hasn't gone off. Does it need to be reset or does it take more time?
View 1 RepliesJust the other day I was driving my car till I've noticed the gears started slipping. At first it was having some issues shifting through the gears (automatic transmission btw). As soon as I got off the highway, I parked in a parking lot just to check underneath the hood. Everything looked fine, went to pull out of the parking lot, no reverse. The gears started to slip up really bad. I noticed that the RPM's kept on reving up and wouldn't go any faster than 20mph. I went to an advance auto parts to get automatic transmission fluid. Still having the same issue and no reverse either. I had to park the car at a location to get it towed back to my house. Some people are saying my transmission is bad, some say it could be a real simple fix. Where to start diagnosing this issue. The car was driving normally until last Monday. My question is where should I start to check and what can I do to see if the transmission is completely shot??
View 33 RepliesMy Buick has started acting weird and I've had a hard time figuring out what's going on. As I understand it 94' was the transition year for the OBD1 and OBD2 sensors, therefore auto zone and o'reilly haven't been able to pull codes on my car. It runs off of OBD1 codes but has 16 point OBD2 sensor pins.
Here's the problem: When the car is started it revs up to 2000rpm at idle, when shifted into neutral the rpm jumps up to 3500. In drive and reverse it goes back down to 2000rpm. While driving the car is hard to stop and surges when I take my foot off the break, it also gains speed on flat ground without touching the gas pedal. After driving the car when I put it back in park it revs back up to 3500rpm and is quite noisy.
I've replaced the mass airflow sensor, cleaned out the entire throttle body (there was a little carbon build up but not too bad), replaced all the vacuum hoses(that put a stop to it for about a week), and I'm still having the same problems. I recently replaced the a/c pump because the bearings went bad but I don't think that would cause any problems like this.
I have a very, very slight gasket leak on my valve covers but it's been like that for the last few months and the car was acting fine. The car has done this before but it usually stops after you drive it somewhere. The hotter it's gotten out the more often it started happening and now it's not stopping like it did before.
I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
i own a 2010 corolla s with only 3000 miles on it. it is a 5 speed and the other day, when revving out 3rd gear to 5500 rpm, my motor started missing, and my check engine, vsc, and trac control lights came on. i turned off the motor and then started it back up and it ran fine but the dummy lights stayed on. i took it to the dealer and they check the codes and it showed that cylinder 2 missed. after explaining to them how it happened and taking a service technician for a ride, they took off the valve cover on my motor, and seen that 3 rocker arms had FALLEN OFF and they tried making me pay $700 to fix it because i was "over revving the motor". I was told that the rocker arms cant withstand that high of rpms and they will fall off due to the floating design "not bolted". but after 2 hours of arguing, they said they would cover it, but only this 1 time. I don't understand why they have the rev limiter set at 6,300 on these cars, when the rocker arms are capable of coming off at 5,500.
View 14 RepliesTwo days ago, I was driving on a North GA steep, windy, mountain road in my 2002 v6 4.0 Ranger. All of a sudden, i started revving real high (about 4000rpms) and getting no power (20mph). I pulled over immediately and transmission fluid was pouring, by the quart, out of my truck. I didnt get to look exactly where it was coming from, since i backed away once i saw a small flame coming from the leak. i then called a tow truck (assuming it was a seal or a hose break) and had it towed to my house.
I started investigating the possible problems and didn't really see anything noticeable under the truck (not that I was expecting to). So what I did was put three quarts of transmission fluid in the dipstick hole and put in gear to see if I could spot a leak. nothing. then I drove it around the block to get it warmed up and put a little pressure on the transmission by driving up a semi-steep hill to see if that would spark the leak again. still no sign of the a leak.
And finally, when I went to go check the dipstick after my test drive, it read to be above the cross hatched area, hence being overfull. What my next step should be?
The rear suspension on my 2013 F Sport AWD with 27,000 miles has started to squeak slightly. It doesn't do it all the time but is audible from within the car even with the stereo at low volume. When the road is smooth it's quiet but it'll squeak on even slightly uneven pavement.
Of course the F Sport has air suspension. I haven't experimented with the different ride settings or height adjustment yet but it is audible in Normal mode.