Passat (B6) :: EPC Light Coming On Intermittently / No Fault Code And Cruise Control Loss
Feb 12, 2012
EPC light coming on intermittently on the morning causing loss of traction control and cruise control, occurred 4 times in 6 months. No fault code logged in, no CEL in dashboard. The dealer checked for logged codes, none. Also had one time the low coolant level display in dash all during one ride to work (30 km) the coolant tank was full and even if I was cycling the ignition switch it was still displaying it. Back from work it was disappeared and never came back on. all EPC light coming on at morning, and ok when coming back from work 9 hours later. Any clue on this?
Car is 2007 Passat Wagon with 2.0T FSI 6 spd manual
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I have a 99 Passat 4 cyl turbo and the cruise control seldom works. Sometimes it works, sometimes not, and sometimes it shuts itself off. What could be the problem?
VWFahrer
85 Jetta Diesel
93 Eurovan
99 Passat
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At a bit over 43K miles the check engine light came on with a blinking cruise light. Dealer has confirmed that both secondary injection pumps have failed for reasons unknown. I think this is part of the pollution control system.
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I have a 2006 volkswagen passat 3.6 litre v6- have had this car about a year now, 60,000 miles, no problems until recently. Last week I started noticing that when I am driving, with my foot on the gas, it would intermittently act as if it was decelerating at a rapid pace( will drop gears, is NOT a coast)- even when I floored it!! As soon as it stops responding to the throttle I can floor it, nothing will happen, then let the gas peddle go- then reapply gas and it will act perfectly normal- no flooding, no nothing!! I have been able to keep it floored( while it is decelerating) for about 30 seconds, and it seems to make no difference.
The only other problem that I have recently noticed was that my cruise control was acting only intermittently as well. Oh, also while all this is happening it isn't throwing any check engine, or error lights. I have taken it to the dealer, and also to another specialty mechanic( with master certified technicians) and neither seem to find any problem with the vehicle, the only code that they said was found was one to the mass air flow??, but they weren't sure that was actually the problem, as, of course, they cannot seem to replicate my problem, even though it is now happening quite a lot. I am worried about driving my car now as it is quite a hazard when it decelerates rapidly, and to top it all off, we were supposed to leave for a 2,000 mile road trip in 10 days.
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I have an early 1999 f250 diesel. I originally googled having the airbag light on and loss of cruise control and came up with it more than likely being a bad clock spring. So I replaced the clock spring, and it was definitely blown. I have a horn now, not sure if I did before or not, but still the light is on and no cruise control. The airbag light is flashing code 27 which I believe means the passenger airbag has issues.
So I tried turning the key in the switch for the passenger airbag to deactivate it, but it only lets me turn it 45 degrees and no light comes on. It looks like the key should turn 90 degrees but maybe I'm just an idiot. I see a lot of people with the bulbs dying and running into issues but that wouldn't explain the inability to turn the key 90 degrees. Also would the airbag light being on deactivate the cruise or is that just some other issue? For what its worth, I plugged in a code reader and no codes came up, just the flashing airbag light.
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I have a 2007 subaru outback ll bean addition with 67,000 miles. For the past year and a half my gas pedal has intermittently become unresponsive. The engine is running just fine but the check engine light and cruise control light start blinking and boom-no gas. After turning off the engine, the car won't start until the gas pedal has magically started working again. The dash lights continue to blink for several starts but then stop.
Prior to this problem, I have noticed that sometimes the console lights for the radio and AC blink and sometimes go dark at which point the controls are ineffective. As if this wasn't enough, just yesterday when trying to start the car, the engine was having trouble turning over with a rapid clicking noise. It eventually started but now the seat belt buckle alarm is out of whack and the speedometer displays "ER U1."
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I have a 2013 VW Passat TDI SE DSG and I was trying to do some tweaks. I found this fault code yesterday and cleared it. I scanned it again this morning and it popped up again. I searched and did not foud anything. No check engine light.
Saturday,16,November,2013,10:32:21:13221
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)
Data version: 20130910
[Code] ....
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Check engine light is on and my code reader is giving me a P0000 code that is not listed in the Bentley's list of OBD II codes. My nose is telling me it's emissions related as the exhaust smells too rich. And the car is nearly stalling at idle. Suspect #1 is the MAF but the OBD II code does not support this.
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Earlier this week on my way back home from the gym I got my first check engine light . I scanned the car and got the fault below. What may be causing it?
About the car: 2008 LUX Wagon2.0T FSI50,2XX miles
Scan:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 907 115 S HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH16--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 040C010A19070160
Shop #: WSC 25129 444 59131
VCID: 3041DE6FDAB3
1 Fault Found:
008583 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle
[Code] ....
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In the last 5,000 miles or so, my 2007 Prius has been really burning oil and intermittently the cruise control stops working. No warning lights. Car sounds and feels as usual. 235,000 miles on it. Water pump, thermostat and drive belt replaced 3/2013. Check engine light has been on since about then and diagnosed then as either catalytic converter and/or oxygen sensors and I chose not to fix those as was told not necessary until.
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Earlier this evening on the highway while in cruise control I had a strange issue. Going up a slight incline all of the sudden I lost power, my ESP and EPC lights came on, and the engine was running very strange.
It wasn't stuttering but was louder and vibrating a whole lot more than normal. I pulled over and shut the car off for a couple mins, started it up, everything was normal and continued. About an hour later the same thing happened and when I started up the car again the check engine light was on.
I had my room mate scan it when I got back and it came up with ECM and PCM processor errors. Not sure what kind of problems this would be. All the searches on cruise control didn't turn up anything like this. What the problem would be? The cars a turbo'd r32.
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Had an intermittent problem with my Cruise Control engaging. The CC light would come on when the CC on/off button was pressed.
When the CC would engage the "set" light would come on and the speed would hold. On occasion the CC would not engage.
I looked are reread the owners manual.....NOTHING! I was double checking to make sure there was nothing different with the hybrid. (I have owned Toyota for a very long time...since 88').
Since the Hybrid is new to me, "shifting" is a little bit different. There is a "B" on the shifter which is mentioned for "downshifting". There is no mention that once you are done with downshifting that you must shift back to "D" for normal operation. The only mention is not to run in "B" for an extended amount of time.
So, when you are in the "B" position, the CC with disengage.
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First it wouldn't turn on, at times now it at times won't work even though the light is on, on the dash. At other times it works as expected. I dun think it's the 12V battery, because when only the center console is on in diagnostics the battery reads 12.2-12.4 and 14.5 + when the engine is on.
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Just got a check engine light last night. Pulled the code and got a P202a fault. Some digging indicates its the Ad-Blue tank heater module. TDI forum indicates its anywhere from $850 to 1K to fix. Also that it's not covered under any extended warranty (now there's a shock!) The cars going back to VW so that's not happening.
Is this one of the conditions that will cause the car to go into limp mode at some point? I know that happens when the ad-blue runs low. I'm in Florida so the heater isn't really a big deal. I need to use it another couple of months and I don't want to have this thing leave me stranded. If I have to I'll park it.
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I had the cruise control set on the speed limit going up a hill. Half way up, the cruise control dropped as did my speed from 70 to 56. There were no warning lights but the battery meter was in the one bar pink range. I managed to continue up the hill at 56 mph by flooring the accelerator. When I got to the top and started to regenerate power to the battery, I regained power and speed. I am discussing a 2008 Prius with 89k miles. What the issue may be ( like battery pack declining efficiency)?
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The cruise control on my '05 Avalon Limited was working intermittently for a while. I'd hit the button to turn it on and nothing. Then a few miles down the road, I'd hit it again and it would work just fine. Today I tried to turn it on and nothing. Three different trips today and no luck.
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I had had intermittent issues with the cruise control not working in my excursion. most of the time it was fine though. after a recent 150 mile trip it stopped working half way through. i didnt worry about it too much..got back into town and checked under the hood. i found brake fluid running down the inner fender well! all over everything under the master cylinder. finally tracked it down to the cruise control switch on the master cylinder leaking. I pulled the plug apart and it was full of brake fluid.
Meanwhile the master cylinder was about half full, so i replaced it with the same switch out of a '96 parts explorer which is the same part luckily. also yes i have had the cruise control recall done. So if you have lost CC and you have a leak replace the switch! seems it can leak..and at a pretty good rate..alittle scary! glad i figured it out before my 800+ mile trip later this week/weekend.
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2002 Ford Excursion cruise control inoperable. Problem began when cruise would come on intermittently. I would push the on button then set, at which point the green cruise icon light would either come on and the cruise would set or she would flash and not set. Sometimes holding the switch down worked, other times not. Now no matter what I do the cruise will not engage.
I have had the recall done for the cruise control by the dealership.
I have checked the fuse on the recall module, the 2.5 is in good shape and not blown.
I also found this guide to a self test (copied below). I used the test, turning the key on with the off button depressed yields a green speed icon light. Letting go and pressing on yields a green flash as well. But when I move on to pressing resume I get no lights at all, same if I continue through the other switches, no more lights.
Here is the self test guide -
*cruise control self test
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo.
Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch. NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
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My Prius cruise control will intermittently not activate when I try to turn it on. One day it will turn on and work fine. The next day I can not get it to turn on. I took the panel off of the back side of the lever and the contacts look ok for the on/off button.
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The Cruise Control on my truck works intermittently. Sometimes it cuts out when I am driving and sometimes it fails to work at all (usually in the morning). Sometimes it will re engage if it cuts out and sometimes it will not re engage for hours.
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