Passat (B6) :: EPC And CE Lights Coming On - Revving Really High Before Finally Accelerates
Jun 21, 2012
I have a 2007 Passat with >120k miles on it. For the last month or so, occasionally when I start the car up, the EPC (I think it stands for Electronic Power Control) light and the Check Engine (the engine sign) light comes on. When I hit the gas, it barely goes past 20 and seems to be revving really high (almost redlining) before it finally accelerates. Needless to say, this is not a good thing; especially when it happens on the freeway.
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I have a 2007 Passat with >120k miles on it. For the last month or so, occasionally when I start the car up, the EPC (I think it stands for Electronic Power Control) light and the Check Engine (the engine sign) light comes on. When I hit the gas, it barely goes past 20 and seems to be revving really high (almost redlining) before it finally accelerates. Needless to say, this is not a good thing; especially when it happens on the freeway.
I called around to a few mechanics but they all want to see the car and run the computer codes on it before they even tell me what's wrong with it; which I am loathe to do just yet because I don't want them to charge me an extra $100 for a diagnostic for a repair I may not even get done with that mechanic. Meanwhile I'm driving around feeling like I should put my feet on the ground like Fred Flintstone to gain speed.
In the research I've done online, I've seen that it may be an issue with the throttle wire or some other wiring issue.
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I have a 2000 sc2 saturn DOHC 1.9 engine with just under 200k miles.
My problem is this, I recently purchased this car and was told it is in desperate need of a tune-up, being broke I decided to replace the cheapest parts first. I started with spark plugs, they are all gaped at 0.40 and all are new and the right ones for the car, ever since i changed the spark plugs the car has been idling rough (when i start it rpms go to 2500+ for about 10 seconds and drop to about 800-1100, when i shift into any gear it revs the rpms back up and they drop gradually). My other problems are that my car sounds like it is souped up and sounds like a rice rocket, when i put it in drive it starts to accelerate on its own and has reached around 40 mph at a gradual increase.
My uncle who was a mechanic said it could be the IAC, EGR or throttle position sensor, or cadilityc converter i replaced the IAC and it don't really seem to have worked much.
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My ranger has a 3.0 v6 engine it idles high and accelerates on its own sometimes. Sometimes its more often then others. I turn my key about three times thinkin its reseting the computer and stop it and it does. But I keep hitting a dead end and don't know what to do about it.
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She has a 2000 Passat. This has kind of been a recent problem where we would turn the key, hear a single click, and nothing would happen. After a few tries the engine would finally start. This has been going on for a few weeks. Now, it just won't start. The car only has 55k miles on it. Starter motors don't die after so few miles do they? I was going to check the battery first though.
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Haven experienced a couple of times now that my B6 3.2 VR6 (V6) have a little problem to start, it seem to start up fine then shuts down - and one will have to keep starting it for some time before it finaly fires up correctly........
I have not experienced yet this behaviour when the car is warm, and personally I'm starting to think about the injector coil stuff thingy - but haven't done a vag-com yet, but will do.
I know the 3.2 was only uin EU, but basically pretty much the same as the 3.6, they are both a VR system
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My problem is on my gf's 99 Passat. Its the 1.8t and runs and drives fine. The abs/brake light is blinking which from reading seems common and I have to send that module out to be rebuilt. The issue I am having right now is every once and a while it wont start. It will crank and crank and finally start like a minute later. She's convinced pumping the gas pedal works but I don't think its fuel related at all as it smells flooded when it finally starts. Ive replaced the plugs, air filter and still does same thing.
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I have a 2010 Mountaineer Premier AWD V8 47k miles. On acceleration there is a hum/vibration in the steering wheel and the gas pedal between 30-50 mph. This is my third Mountaineer and I have never noticed it on the others, I just got this one about 2 months ago. The others were V6 models but were AWD. When I turn the 4x4 to the lock mode there are various noises/vibrations coming from the front of the car while it accelerates and also when turning.
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Recently, when I start my Golf 2.5 DSG it has been revving a little loud or rough. It usually revs at under 1k at idle, but when starting up it revs at around 1500 until I put it in drive and release the footbrake.
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I've been dealing with this for over a year. 97 s-10 (4.3, 4wd, 5spd) always wants to keep revving. When I put it in neutral and coast, the rpms rise. When in gear, it powers itself down the road even when I'm off the gas. The part that really gets me, is that it will keep revving in neutral until the vehicle comes to a COMPLETE STOP. Then, it drops to a nice idle within 2-3 seconds. I don't understand what the momentum of the vehicle has to with the revving of the engine when its in neutral.? I replaced the IAC valve (and set the pintle) and tried to clean up everything I could. It seemed to be better for only a little while. Faulty new part? Is the IAC getting "gummed up" quickly because of something else?
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I had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
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1998 Honda CRV ... Replaced the AC compressor. AC is cold only when the engine is revving above certain rpm. When at a stop, the air is warm...but if I put it into neutral and rev the engine to, let's say, 2000+ rpm, AC gets colder....or when I am driving, obviously. I know everyone is gonna say something about the condenser fan but would it be the fan given above circumstances?
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I just brought my 2011 Prius to the dealership today after the check engine light came on. Last night, the car was intermittently revving at a high level, but otherwise the car as running fine. The service technician was saying it was the VSV valve that was intermittently sticking. I was told that there was a software update on this valve that might take care of the problem; I asked about the lifespan for the valve, but he had no information about that. I told him to just do the software update, but now I'm wondering if I should also replace the valve.
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I have a 2008 Subaru Forester that I bought used. It has 37,000 miles on it. When I drive at high altitudes, the rpms rev up, the car slows down, sounds terrible. Why is this and what can be done?
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i did have the mech recall done a while back. lately, on several occasions, when i've hit the pedal to the floor "fast", i would get a high rev to 3-4k with the car not moving any faster and then after the revs come back to 1-2k the car would take off like it should. the perfect example of this would be when i wanted to change lanes or pass someone on the freeway.
the car accelerates normally when i am depressing the pedal incrementally and i haven't seen the same type of thing during any other situation. i've had the car for a year and hadn't really noticed this prior to recent driving.
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I have a 89 f250 4x4 351W FI C6 Auto, recently I was having problems with the trans it was revving up real high before it went into 2nd. I dropped the pan and the valve body to make sure their were no shavings or any other debris. Everything ok.
So I replaced the valve modulator and the line that goes to the intake, replaced the MLPS and adjusted the intermediate band. I put it all back together and NOW it won't even go in gear. Did I hook up the valve body wrong? If so what is the proper way of doing it?
I only unbolted the valve body from the trans I didn't take it apart. I was also wondering whats up with the color strips on the modulator I have purple right now was i suppose to have different color? Could the pin for the modulator not be in place? I added 3 quarts is that to much or not enough?
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I have a 99 tacoma with a 3.4 L automatic with 160,000 miles. For the past year my truck will idle rough and quit after revving high. After driving around for a few min its fine until I accelerate hard and get it up to about 4 to 5 thousand rpms. I recently changed the timing belt and accidentally got it about two teeth off. While it was like that, it didnt have much power and it was very loud, but it didnt have the problem. Once I fixed it and got it timed right it started having the problem again.
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I'm rolling down the freeway in stop and go traffic, so I have been EV stacking. Clicked from EV to HV several times over the course of 5 minutes. Then, I hear this fairly high pitched revving sound - even and constant rev up, not rev/idle/rev. I thought it was the truck next to me, so I turn down the radio and away from the truck but it happened again. I would stomp on the gas for a moment, and it would subside - not completely because it would start doing it again very soon. I'm not accelerating, but it would be like throwing it into neutral and revving. When I come to a complete stop, it would not go to EV - the light isn't on like when it is warming up the ICE.
My exit was coming up soon, so I would alternate pumping the brake and gas to get it to stop. Only when I was at the light that I powered off the car to reboot. Since then, it did not recur. Strange... Perhaps related, but I doubt it - I had bumped into a vehicle around 3-4 mph the day before. I was... drowsy.
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My oil pressure had been dropping to 0 for a while. After searching the internet, I replaced the oil sending unit. This seemed to fix the issue for a while - until I was going up some hills, and the engine began revving really high, and the oil pressure once again dropped to 0. I then heard some noise from the engine, so I pulled over and turned it off. I had it towed to a garage, and told the tow driver to NOT start the car, because I thought the oil pump was out, and so no oil was getting to the engine.
I then called the garage, and told them it was coming in, and NOT to start it, because the engine was not getting oil, and I thought oil pump might be bad. They called me back an hour later to tell me they had added some oil and started it, and the engine was gone.
First question, is would a good garage have tried starting the car with the information they had? My expectation was that they would have tried to check things out without starting it.
Second, should I try to replace the oil pump and see if the car starts?
Make: dodge
Model: durango
Model Year: 2000
Odometer Mileage: 205,000
Amount of oil consumed between oil changes: 1 qt
Frequency of oil changes, in terms of both odometer mileage and elapsed time: 6months, 5000 miles
Oil level was checked once every one to two weeks.
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I've had this happen a couple of times since winter. The engine will rev high around 2000 rpm then come down back to normal idle speed.
I've recently changed out all ignition coils so I know it's not that.
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I have a 95 Mercury Villager that didn't pass inspection. I put SeaFoam in it before inspection to clean the engine. Now I have been told that it may have caused gunk to loosen up and that I need to run out all of the gas in it and then fill it up and run it at high speeds for a period of time on the highway before I try to get it re-inspected. Since it didn't pass inspection I couldn't get it registered and it is technically not street legal at this point. I'm letting it run in the driveway to burn up the gas. Should I fill it completely when I get gas or should I put just a bit in and run it out a couple of times before I try to get it inspected again? Also, if I put it in park and rev it for 20 mins or so would that be equivalent to driving it on the highway?
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