Passat (B6) :: Dust Cap For Front Axle?
Nov 8, 2008
I just put my steel wheels on for the winter and noticed that my '07 Passat doesn't have dust caps over the driveshaft bolt on the front wheels. Is this normal? Looks kind of funny with the bolt exposed. The rears did have a dust cap on them.
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I just had my 10k service and noticed my two front tires still had a significant amount of brake dust and the rear tires did not. I always have more brake dust on the front than the rear and was the case when I dropped the car off. The service guy said they rotated from front to back but that didn't happen. I was under the impression they moved front to back and vice versa. What is the standard rotation for tires at the prescribed service intervals?
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Picture if you will...Removed tire, caliper and rotor. Removed hub, and knuckle containing the stub shaft/spindle with it's yoke for the U joint. You are now looking at the end of the axle tube, with the axle shaft in it, one end connected to the differential carrier, the other end has the yoke for the U joint on it. Just inboard of the yoke, is a seal. Apparently it's called a "dust seal" is there a bearing behind this, or is the first bearing all the way in at the differential? When I was doing my brakes, I noticed the passenger side u-joint is shot, and the axle wiggles around in the dust seal. Figured I'd replace the seal while I was doing the U joint. Also, how do I get the axle shaft out? Just pull, or do I have to remove a C clip from the inboard end? What is the right National part number for the seal? I have a 6/2000 Excursion.
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I really enjoy my 2009 Smart car, excellent gas mileage, fun to drive too. The only drawback is all the dust coming off the front disc brakes that makes my front wheels look filthy even when the rest of the car is clean. Are there other brake pads that work as good as the factory originals yet don't give off so much dust?
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I have a 2001 b5.5 passat sedan i recently picked up for cheap. The car was on cut springs and blown struts. I just installed JOM blue Line coilovers on it to solve the suspension problem. While i was doing this i realized both the cv boots were torn and needed replacing. I replaced the axles. The passat is a 1.8t with tip tronic trans. After i did the axles when i put the car in drive and let it idle i get a fairly noticeable vibration through out the car. It does not happen while driving or while in neutral. This did not happen before i did the axles. It doesnt make much sense to me?
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I had a ripped drivers side CV boot and had my indy replace the axle with a new Raxle. ~200 miles after the replacement the wheel bearing on that side went south. I shugged it off and had it replaced. Well, after 200 miles on the new bearing, it has also failed (100 miles from home). I gotta believe the 2 bearing fails are related to the new axle, but I don't understand how!
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Here's what I am running into. I have factory setup and it doesn't feel adequate. I get vibrations, lots of brake dust on front wheels, and just don't feel I have the stopping power if needed in emergency or towing. Especially with how heavy my 6.0 is already.
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Replacing my HID bulbs, and I thought the the driver lens was just more scratched or rock pitted than the passenger.
However, it appears that their is some fogging or dust inside the lens. It doesn't seem to be actual moisture - it appears almost like a layer of dust or residue - perhaps it had moisture at one time that has evaporated or vented out.
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2007 corolla 64K original factory calipers. I bought pads and rotors today to replace my front brakes. When I removed the right caliper I noticed that the boot was danaged ( about 1" long tear ). but does not leak. I put the pads and rotors on anyways.What would be the normal repair for this Leave it, replace thr boot, replace the whole caliper or replace both calipers. This also has ABS. I have never bleed ABS brakes before. What is the best way for a DIYer to bleed this type of brakes.
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I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat 4X4 and the front wheels get brake dust and rust staining on them. What is the best wheel cleaner to use to get rid of this? I thought about muratic acid but am afraid of damaging the finish on the wheels.
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The brake dust on my front rims seems next to impossible to remove. Truck is a 10 F150 4x4 Lariat. What are people using to remove this? I expect to get in and scrub, but don't want to damage the rims as well.
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Overall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
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I have a 2016 F350 4x4 that has brake dust on the front wheels after only 3000 miles. I have tried to find ceramic pads to replace the semi-metalic pads that are causing the issue. There is no listing for replacement pads that I can find. My question is will 2015 pads fit the 2016? What is the actual part numbers to see if they are the same. This is just one of the problems with having an early build vehicle.
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My front dust shield on the driver's side is falling apart and scraping against my rotor. On the passenger side the dust shield is long gone.
My question is do I need the dust shields? Is there any issues without having them?
In a perfect world I'd like to replace them, but I have a feeling that this is going to be one of those dealer only items that's severely overpriced.
Seeing as I have the passenger side shield missing, and I never noticed anything before hand I'm thinking this is an item that might not be necessary.
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I have an 2011 Ecoboost SCAB and the front brake dust is ruining my chrome package wheels. The rears are fine. Ceramic or low dust pads??
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When I took my Saturn L300 to the dealer recently for its regular oil change I was told that my right front axel seal was leaking and it will cost me $580 to replace. This seems awfully high to me. Am I getting fleeced by the GM dealer?
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The van started going "clickity pop clickity pop" around corners the other day. I got under to inspect the CV boots and yep the drivers side outer CV boot is ripped all the way round, and the grease has been flung out of it all over the place.
I got a new axle assembly rather than rebuild mine. I am a little bit scared of this repair because it was what killed my audi 5000 turbo I had.
I am assuming i have to take the wheel, brakes, tie rod, off of the spindle. Then drop the lower arm, axle nut? Then the flange bolts on the inner portion of the shaft that mounts to the differential? I don't have the right chilton manual to look at!
On my audi, I never got the torque of the axle nut right and i kept ruining hub bearings. Those are a royal pain to change, and I don't want to do that on this van!
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Noticed some spotting in front of the house, and saw some leaking coming from the driver side near the axle. I'm guessing it's the axle seal leaking. I recently switched in to 4x4 about a week ago, shortly after that I noticed the leak. I have a trip to San Antonio coming up in the middle of Feb, about a 650 mile round trip. Can I continue with the plans and get it fixed afterwards?
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Looking for info on changing out my left front cv joint axle.My boot is busted on the outter axle but iam going to change out the hold axle then my inner and outter are done the same time.Is there any body that attempted this on there own or a good thread that explains the steps to take on this job.My ride is a 2004 camry auto with the four bagger.
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I just installed some Neuspeed sport springs with Koni sport shocks on my .:R and it appears like my swaybar is knocking against my front axle on the driver side.
Now, I read somewhere that is not supposed to be possible, but I can see the marks on the axle. Also, the swaybar link looks like it is twisted quite a bit with the new struts. And, when I look at them with the car on the ground, the distance between the swaybar and the axle looks to be at least 2 inches.
Do I need to center the swaybar? Maybe my control arm bushings are worn out really bad? The camber on the front of my car is -1.4 on both sides.
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My '04 Prius is currently at 134k miles and I've noticed for a while that the front suspension feels and sounds "loose" over small bumps and imperfections on the road.
I also just started noticing some squeaking noise coming from the axle/hub when I first drive off in the morning.
I first thought the loose feeling could be worn out shocks, but I'm starting to worry that it would be something else.
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