Passat (B6) :: Disturbing Whistle Sound When Accelerating - Rough Idle / Stalled Twice
Nov 10, 2007
I took my car to the dealer two days ago. The idle was rough, it stall twice and I had a CEL.. They change two high pressure fuel sensor and now the car run fine.
But now I hear a disturbing whistle sound when accelerating. The sound is audible from inside the car but louder when the window are down. This is my third turbo car and this sound as no comparison to the sweet whistle of my 1.8T for example.
I opened the hood to check if something was loose, in fact the main clamp from the inlet pipe to the engine cover was loose so I remove the engine cover assembly to check if the tech didn't forgot something else. Everything looked fine, I put everything back together and I hearing this annoying whistle again...
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For a week now, my car whistle pretty loudly (I can hear it windows closed) when accelerating. After reading about 2.0t problems, I thought it was either a bad DV or PCV. I tried to diagnose if my problem was related to a bad pcv. So I disconnect the tube going from the intake to the pcv and plug the hole on the intake. Then I went for a ride and it whistle like before...so does this test confirm that my pcv isn't my problem?
As of now, I never saw traces of oil around the oil filler cap. When the engine is running, as soon as I press on the accelerator(even lightly), the whistle begin. As soon as I remove my foot, it whistle for a second then it stop. At a stop, if I press on the accelerator, the whistle will begin at only 5500 rpm and up.
No CEL so far related to lost of boost(I had a cel last week and they change fuel sensors and regulator). Also, the car pull pretty constantly but seem less powerful than before.
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I have this whistling noise that developed after re installing my stock airbox. Seems to have just started right after installation. Cant seem to pinpoint what is going on. I also had a error code come u p(p0411). 1.8t b5.5 passat ...
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Ford Escape 3L, 6cyl. When accelerating there is a loud high pitch whistle/whirling sound. The sound varies with the amount of throttle you give it. More throttle = louder whine. Doesn't seem to do it when idling or coasting. What that could be? I'm about to remove the belt and take a look at the drive belt tensioner and other pulleys.
Just checked pulleys and tensioner and the tensioner seems fine, a/c pulley spins smooth and free no play, alternator spins smooth no play. The belt needs to be replaced. I wouldn't think this would cause such a load whistle under acceleration. I would expect it to do it all the time if it was the belt. I'm looking at the water pump pulley and belt too and they seem ok as well.
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This vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
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My v4 99'accord 4cyl with 152K miles had stalled a few months back.*the idle was rough/uneven.. *in stop-and-go traffic sometimes when i would hit the gas pedal, engine would almost skip a beat or two, and sometimes stall..
The car shop changed the ignition switch..they cleaned out the EGR valve which had plenty of carbon build up.after cleaning out the EGR valve the idle was much better.. But over time the idle has gotten worse. i fear another stall is around the corner. Is the EGR valve bad?
Another thing i noticed while test driving in the parking lot, i stop and start again by applying low but uniform pressure on the gas,the engine picks up, then drops, and then picks up and drops a few times before the car finally picks up speed..
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Got my Accent on June 30th, has 8500km on it already and I love my car.
Recently, I've noticed a sound coming from the passenger side when stopped at lights or when I've just parked. Best description would be a bit like a crackle (liquidy/whistly type of sound). Only happens when the A/C/defogger is on.
It's not very noticeable, I only hear it when I don't have the radio on, but it's been bothering me. I found a few posts about a rattle, but from what I can remember, it's not really a rattle.
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The title pretty much explains it. Coming home today started hearing a squeal/whistle while at highway speed - almost sounds like the brake wear indicator tabs that GM is so fond of. Thought it might be the brakes, but it didn't stop with brake application and continued after coming to a full stop. Also, surging at idle, which seems to be reduced when the A/C compressor is on. The squeal happens both with and without A/C.
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Here is a video of a blow off valve which gives the sharp "whistle" sound of the 2.0t.. Right now I have the forge full atmospheric BOV...
[URL] .....
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My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
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2002 Toyota Camry
2.4 V4
My car has developed a rough idle when stopped and when accelerating. When I got the CEL, I had the codes read at Advance Auto.
The codes are P0301, P0302, P0303, P1349.
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Noticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
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2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
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1990 Mazda Protege with a 1.8L DOHC, manual 5-spd transmission, ~173K miles on it. On my way home the other day, the car ABRUPTLY started to run very rough - with what I would call repetitive and incessant stuttering when accelerating (though I am by no means technical with respect to cars). I shut the car down, hoped the problem would go away, but when I started it up later that day, the problem was still there - the car BOTH idles rough and doesn't accelerate very smoothy. When I come to a stop, the car feels as if it's going to stall but stays running. This afternoon, I took it out on the road for ~3 mile drive (up to ~ 50 mph) and the problem is the same - but I did also notice, when driving, that the car gave off a smell reminiscent of firecrackers - perhaps a sulfur-ish smell. I googled the issues I was having and I got a whole array of problems - ranging from simply bad spark plug wires (which have been replaced in the past 1.5 years) to a stuck EGR valve .
Here's some additional info on my car: -Was just in the shop 2wks ago for overheating - found the thermostat to be bad - they replaced it and I no longer have the overheating issue. While there, they also replaced the belts for the alternator and water pump (Which had been squealing for quite some time) -Spark plug wires and distributor cap were both replaced in the last 1.5 years -Last oil change was > 6 months (but less than 3000 miles) ago - all the fluid levels seem to be fine -Though I think it is unrelated, the car is also making a high pitched squeaking noise emanating from the R front of the car while driving - I suspect this is the suspension-related as the shop informed me that I have one front stablizer link broken while the other is loose (and when I push down on the R-front side of car while it is not running it yields a similar squeaking noise.
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Happened last night two blocks away from home. The idle seemed a little rough at start-up but didn't think much of it because the coolant temp was only 132 degrees. Pulled out of the driveway up to the stop at the corner. Totally bogged upon accelerating, went a block, then came the sound of a hubcap rolling down the street along with a check battery light, no power steering, and REALLY sucky brakes.
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I got a p0284 code and have some symptoms such as shaking while accelerating between 45 and 60 mph and a rough idle.
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer and the past few months, there is a whistling noise when I accelerate but only when the air conditioner is on. Now I have noticed that the air is not that cold. Would you know what the problem is?
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I have a 06 2.0T and noticed last night when stopped at a light, a loud whistling noise was heard. When I would accelerate, the noise would go away but when coasting, it could be heard again. Is this the diverter valve? Is it easy to change?
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Every time I accelerate I hear and annoying whine, whistle noise, as soon as I get my foot off the gas it goes away.
LS350 f sport AWD
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My 2007 Prius Touring creates high pitch Squeak/Whistle sound while accelerating and braking, But if I put the car on neutral then the sound completely goes away. I have all the holes covered on the both side mirrors and this still occurs. The sound is constant for as long as I accelerate and Brake and the intensity varies with how hard I accelerate or brake, It also does that during regen braking when I leave the accelerator.
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