When I shift under heavy boost (stage 1), there is a very distinct noise, imagine sucking in super fast, to the point where it kind of mid pitch moans, and speed it up to only a bit of a second. Its very hard to explain! is this a normal noise? or should I be removing the DV asap?
View 11 RepliesI have a k04 turbo on the passat. (2000 b5) been having problems with it for longest time. however one night i was cruisn around and suddenly when car boosted the turbo went from the typical whistle to a whistle with a distinct buzzing noise (no to loud but very noticeable) almost like a bery dull sounding supercharger.
Ripped inlet hose off found that where the clamp is to hold on to turbo inlet was slit all the way through got new inlet hose hooked it up nothing happened. checked all turbo charge pipes and lines am going to double check again tomorrow. does this sound like a turbo issue or a leak issue. There is no loss in boost car was fixed and now runs great ... but this buzzing sound is annoying and kinda worrying me at the same time.
I am experiencing a power/boost pulse when under moderate to heavy acceleration. I'm wondering if this is a sign of my diverter valve failing or another issue withing the turbo system.
I don't have a boost gauge and the main pulsing seems to be between 2800 and 5k in the rpm band.
I currently have the P0299 code for underboosting. I am pretty certain that i need to replace my wastegate actuator because i can hear it rattling on deceleration.
My plans are to replace it at the same time I replace the timing belt since it would be a decent opportunity to remove the turbo to change the WG actuator. However, I still can't figure something out. When I am starting to accelerate from a stop in 1st gear (and only 1st gear), there is a loud screech, lasting only a second, coupled at the same time by a quick and noticeable loss of power; as if boost was released. I typically shift out of 1st within 2500-3700ish rpm, if that makes any difference.
From what I have researched, this sounds like the turbine making contact with the housing. I may be wrong, but that does not add up to me because I am only experiencing this problem in 1st gear. We are talking about a 2003 B5.5, Engine Code AWM. No mods, 100% stock.
Ok, I just bought this car a month ago, and I get this code coming up intermittently. I reset the code, and it will come back after driving a while. 2002 passat 1.8t 5 speed. It seems like it comes back when I roll backwards a little bit (like from a standing start on an incline) right before taking off. Could this be a leaky throttle body to inter cooler hose? Seems like the engine might move more while taking off from a backwards rolling start due to the torque. Also, I hear a lot of noise while on boost coming from the drivers front corner of the car, although it doesn't throw a code while on boost.
View 5 RepliesI lost boost, went from being chipped at 16psi to 7-8 with a check engine code and a high pitch noise. Now is the secondary air pump connected to the turbo in any way. It just happened and I'm working on getting the code read. Just curious if my pump is just bad, what im figuring.
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 Passat 1.8T (AEB engine) with 120,000 miles has run very well lately.............except for a recent problem. I drove 150 miles on southern California freeways, parked the car for an hour, then started it again. There was a distinct miss and the check engine light began flashing. I turned it off, let it sit for a couple hours, then plugged in a code reader. There were two codes, both the same - P-0302, "Cylinder #2 misfire". I pulled the cover off the engine, wiggled the wiring to the #2 coil, cleared the codes and started it up. There was no miss, maybe there was a little corrosion on the electrical connection?? I know there was a recall on the coils, but my car was too old to participate in the recall. Which it is - bad connection, bad coil, or something else? Or a way to diagnose it further?
View 2 RepliesI just picked up a 20th and it seems when it's running and parked i get this very distinct rattling noise from somewhere in my engine bay. I go to put the clutch down and it stops, as soon as i lay off the clutch it comes back (almost humming) could it maybe be the trans?
View 8 RepliesSince the Prius is my wife's primary car, I can go a long time without driving. I recently have been driving it more, and it seems to me that it has the sounds of a failing wheel bearing. Between about 30-40 MPH there seems to be a distinct rotational noise that sounds to me like a loud wheel bearing from the front end. The sound seems to get quieter as I go faster, and at 60 mph + it seems normal.
My wife didn't notice any difference, but she drives the car everyday so maybe she didn't notice the gradual increase in noise. I know it's not tire related, because I just swapped tires. When I did, I didn't feel any play in the front bearings or feel any roughness when the wheels were rotated.
Is it normal to experience a distinct clunking noise when downshifting into first gear? My dealer indicates this is normal but I don't want to risk damage to the tranny if it is not normal.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Nissan xterra se with 93,0000 mi. When i reach speeds greater than 60 mph it makes this rapid somewhat clicking noise. the dealer suggest to replace the belts. Of course that did not resolved the issue. then they claimed it was coming from the exhaust so they tinkered with it. it was gone for awhile but now it has return.
View 2 RepliesI noticed that my Jeep has been making a distinct clapping noise any time the engine is not up to operating temperature. It sounds worst on cold mornings, but becomes quieter as the engine warms up. The noise is RPM dependent, so I'm assuming it has something to do with the engine. The noise is not audible when the engine is idling in park, but quickly shows up as soon as I put the car in gear and add gas. My father and I think that a slightly loose rocker might be the cause of the noise, but we're not sure. A mechanic friend of his told him that our jeep has self adjusting rockers so it can't really be fixed without replacing it. I've never heard of such a thing so I'm having a hard time believing it. The really confusing part is that it only makes noise when the car is in gear and the engine is under stress, making no noise when it's just idling, even when the engine is revved. Since purchasing it 5 years ago, we have been careful to do regular maintenance on our jeep so I'm somewhat surprised by it.
Vehicle Info:1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo~175000 miles4.0L I6 with stock 4 speed transmission Completely stock
Finally got the car started after over a year of acquiring parts and labor. Cylinder 5&6 had misfires due to faulty injector harnesses. That issue has resolved. But I am getting a pretty distinct exhaust leak noise coming from the manifold area and i cannot figure out where it is coming from. We smoke tested it and still can't find the leak.
Things we checked:
-Head to manifold (all nuts tight)
-Manifold to turbo (all nuts tight)
-Turbo to downpipe (2 vbands both tight)
-Wastegate (2bolt manifold to adapter tight and vband adapter to wastgate tight)
-(2) O2 sensor plugs on the maniold (tight)
-All turbo hardware (tight)
-manifold and downpipe have no cracks
Picture:
Video:
[URL] .....
yesterday got the car tuned. Stage 2 APR, it's a 1.8T 5 speed and I only have 2 real issues with the tune.
1. They forgot left foot braking(I think I can call APR to have this sorted)
2. When accelerating hard and shifting a gear, no matter how you try it will not hold boost through a gear changed. Turning off ASR improves this greatly but it still purges pressure and as a result the car falls flat on its face. Then it spoils up and same thing in the next gear. Trying to hold wide open throttle through a gear change does not work as I believe it feels like the pressure plate isn't able to engage fast enough. It is a full on loud pshhhh purge could a possibly higher PSI Diverter Valve fix this.
No other APR car I've driven does this (given they were MkV and MkVI). I'm not quite sure what is different with the motor unless the stock Diverter is strictly for economy and as soon as you don't need boost it purges? Not really sure
2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
View 7 RepliesHow to check the stabilizer links. 05 Taurus, 4 sedan, 83K miles. Have a distinct noise coming from the front passenger side when going over a bump. Just checked the following and here's what I've found: Checked the ball joint - no play whatsoever, it looks good under the "pry bar" test under the control arm. Tie rod end is tight- no play at all. Strut mounts seem fine. The stabilizer link looks fine - no rust, tears, etc. But I can easily, by hand, twist it freely. However, prying up on the stabilizer bar doesn't seem to show any play on the link itself. Should these be tight (at the joint) to the point where you need some "muscle" to turn them ?? I'm not sure what's left to check.
View 1 RepliesThe history: I have a 98 ford explorer 156k miles. V6 automatic AWD w/ 4WD. I recently took it in for a rebuild on the transmission due to 3rd gear slippage. When I picked it up (after business hours) the dashboard lit up like a christmas tree with code lights about 4wd & OD. It drove fine and I needed the vehicle so I took it and called the mechanic the next day. He advised me if they did something wrong they would fix it but he would have to run the codes to know what was going on. He told me if it drove fine it was ok to take my time about coming in. Since it was an hour drive (and time off work) I waited till the following week. They ran the codes and determined that they had forgot to "plug my 4wd in" and it was throwing every code possible for that system. Lol...
The problem: During the week I drove it I noticed a distinct grinding / chunking noise when I punched the gas hard at any speed in any gear. It happens about 85% of the time and is sometimes light noise and sometimes very bad.
I knew previously that I had bad ball joints so I figured it was that issue making a grinding noise based on the truck rocking back when I gassed it hard.
After about 2 weeks of hearing the grinding occasionally, it gets to bothering me so I go get the ball joints fixed. New ball joints and it still grinds... Now Im really worried it the transmission so I go back to the transmission mechanic yesterday (another half day off work and hour drive) and he test drives it. Tells me it is the transfer case going bad. Also tells me it wasnt like that when I picked it up because they 'test drive' every car after the work is complete (but somehow didnt notice the flashing codes on this test drive).
The question:
Is it possible while rebuilding the transmission or installing it, that they damaged the transfer case?
Are these systems connected directly to one another?
Is it possible that my 4WD being unplugged for a week or so of driving could have caused an issue in the transfer case?
Is it possible that if the 4WD was 'unplugged' the AWD may have also been disengaged and as a result caused an issue in the transfer case?
Is it likely that its just normal wear on two closely related systems and I should just suck it up and get it fixed?
Ok so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
View 14 RepliesI have a Passat 1.8t b5.5 with 150hp
Some months ago I chipped it and it drives very good and I also changed the diverter valve to a 710N.
But now it is fast, but sometimes it just feels like it doesn't hold boost as it should. and I hear a very loud psss sound just like a BOV when I shift. Could it be the 710N which has been broken? Or is it a vacuum line to the DV that has a leak?
Today, without explanation the shift indicator on the dash on my 98 Passat Wagon highlights all gears. When you shift to any gear. . . . the display does not change. Further, shifting is rough from 'park.'
I noticed this problem after looking at all the fuses to see why the radio was not powering up. I have checked fuses. . . . and unplugged the battery and plugged it back in.
I have a 07 20T and today when I went to pass someone on the highway I punched the throttle and the car rev'd up and it started to jerk really hard as if it was not catching the next gear. So I let off the gas and everything went back to normal. Under normal driving the car drives normal and fine, its only when you give it some hard throttle and when it hits high rpm's it jerks, it feels like the car wants to stall. I have 30k miles on it.
View 15 Replies