Passat (B6) :: Constant CEL - Car Shaking Because Of Misfire
Oct 28, 2011
Had a constant CEL two week ago, the car was shaking because the misfire. I went to an european auto shop, it ended up with replacing the intake manifold valve and charged me $700. They explained the valve could not be closed, and that caused a misfire(s). There were three fault codes on report.
This week, I got another constant CEL. I went to the shop and they charged me $50 for scanning the code. and told me it is a misfire on Cylinder 2. there is no fault on intake manifold valve. They dont fix that for free. I went back home and open the engine cover. The ignition coil 2 was replaced. Now, I really doubt if they replaced my valve or not. maybe just changed the coil and reset the alarm.
I have swapped coil 2 and coil 3 to see if the fault follows the coil. How can I verify if they replaced my manifold valve?
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My 1.4 petrol opel astra keeps misfiring every few weeks . When I turn it on the check engine light comes on and the engine shakes so much I can feel it in the steering wheel. When it does I take it out on the road and floor it in 2nd gear for a while and it settles down again for a week or two then one day I jump in and surprise surprise another misfire. It's just been serviced and had timing belt changed. Spent too much money on it in the last few months so I'm wondering if this could be one issue too many. What may cause this kind of constant misfire...
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Anyway, so a little over a year ago I had to have my head gasket replaced and when I picked it up they told me I had a cracked motor mount. After having just spent an exorbitant amount and being poor, I decided to wait to fix that. It seemed to run fine so I didn't worry about it too much. Sometime last year I started hearing this rattling noise when I pushed the gas. It would start and then die off. But it didn't do it all the time.
Fast forward to the past month or so and I've started to get vibration and shaking, usually between 60-70 mph. Thinking it was my tires, I took it in to have them balanced. It rode smooth after that for a few days and came back. The rattling noise has also become more prominent and is pretty constant now. I took it back to the shop and they told me it was more than likely the motor mount. So I went ahead and had that fixed today.
When I picked it up it seemed fine. The noise seemed gone and it rode smooth. But as I drove home and got on the interstate everything came back and sounds/feels just as bad as before. What gives???
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My 03 Tacoma TRD is showing her years! The truck has about 215k and has some serious vibrations and noises going on. First off I have a constant shaking type of vibration between 25 and 35 mph, but it is also present in the higher speeds of 55 and above but sometimes it gets drowned out. I work at a ski resort so when Im coming down the mtn using 3rd gear or so to slow down I feel the vibration is the most apparent then. So far I have had 2 shops look at my driveshaft and both concluded there is nothing wrong with the u joints. I had a CV shaft installed because one of the boots was torn so I went ahead and had that replaced.
What the vibration is.....2nd is more of a intervalled whooomping sound almost like a bullfrog-like interval. As I increase speed the intervals get faster but it is a drawn out whooomp whooomp not a fast sound. It actually rattles the change in my ash tray to the bpms of the sound. Also I have a metallic clunking sound happening when I put the truck in gear (manual) or start and stop at slow speeds without using the clutch. I was driving around a parking deck the other day in first gear and it would make the sound whenever i hit the gas AND when I let off the gas. ONE MORE THING, whenever I am starting off under load in any gear, the truck jerks.....it hesitates and lurches but only at low rpms and again in any gear.
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I have a 2012 CC TSI. Driving normally this morning cylinder 1 had a constant misfire that I cannot diagnose. I have swapped plugs and coils and still cylinder 1 is dead. Then I compression tested. Got around 150 PSI and it holds. And I got the same pressure on the other cylinders. So my question is: What else haven't I checked? What could be causing this constant misfire?
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I recenlty bought a 98 GMC sierra for a great price knowing it needed engine work. It has a constant misfire on cylinder one and it causes the whole truck to shake constantly no matter whether idle or acceleration or slowing down. At first I was thinking a burnt exhaust valve. I ran a compression check (the engine was cold though) and I heard a cold compression check means nothing. But in doing so I found that cylinder 1 has the highest compression out of all. I plan on another compression test tomorrow when engine is warm. But until then I was thinking maybe a bad injector on cylinder one? It is a "spider injection system" and I was wondering if it was possible for one injector to be clogged or not working and the rest be fine. I have seen where one will get hung up and cause hydrolock.
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I just felt that my 2005 Santa fe shakes when idle in front of a traffic light today, later on the check engine light illuminated. Drove to a Monro shop right way and diagnosis using their professional OBD reader, it turns out that the Cylinder 3 and Cylinder 6 are misfiring according to the OBD scan result.
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Recently i started the car and it was shaking more that usual. the CEL light came stating P0300 with random misfires. It sounds and feels like misfires so i believe this is true.
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I bought my 2012 Prius v with 99,000 miles. It started running rough at around 110,000. Time for new spark plugs.
I installed new OEM plugs. Still rough. New ignition coils, Still rough. My car was shaking & jerking at any cruising speed, fast or slow. It seemed to have trouble switching between the ICE (engine) and electric motor. It made a continuous click click click noise at slow speeds. I would get up to speed and let off the gas a little and it would start going chug, chug, chug until I gave more gas. I hated driving my car. The shaking was giving me a headache. I investigated every posibility; Motor mounts, ECU, trans, changed the trans fluid, cleaned the EGR tube, CV shafts, torque limiter, VVT, sluging, tried fuel injector cleaner. I took it to the dealer. They said there was a misfire on #4 cylinder. I told them the ignition was all new but the #4 spark plug was discolored when I replaced it the second time. The mechanic said "That's it! It must be the fuel injector!" New injector installed, $488, still ran rough, still the chug chug chug and click click click. A few days ago, it ran so bad and so weak, it used up all the battery power and could barely stay running. I stopped for gas. I thought " maybe it's the EGR. I should just unplug it." BINGO !! It runs great !!!!! Smooth !!!!!! Better gas mileage. No chugging! No clicking!
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I have a 4cl- 2000 Honda Accord about 160,000 miles on it. I have been having a shaking problem with my engine when it starts up after warm. If I drive more then 20 minutes, stop my car, to say go run an errand, and then come back and turn it on, it shakes and sometimes stalls out. I notice that the RPMs don't go above 1000 and waiver below that. When I do get it going, I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it to regulate. On longer drives after I stop it, it won't start and have to leave it sit for about 20 min. and then get it started by tapping the gas.
The check engine light that did come on has been checked as a cylinder 2 misfire. Sometimes it will flash and sometimes it will not come on.
I have new wires and spark plugs. A 3 year old timing belt. No vacuum leaks or gas line leaks. (all been checked by a mechanic).
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98 5.0 last week i was driving around for a few hours and everything was fine. Did some work in the garage for a few hours and had to run to the hardware store. Started the truck up and she ran like crap. Engine shaking like a misfire. First thought plugs and wires. Well by then it was late and Easter was the next day didn't get to it till Monday. Well after the change still crappy running.
So I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the mass air. No change. Checked for spark on the coil packs all have spark. Checked the PCV all good there. Checked for vac leaks none found. During that I noticed a small hole in the EGR tube I repaired that but still running like crap backfiring out the exhaust, engine shaking badly at times. I also changed out the FPR on the fuel rail. No change of course.
As of today I changed the coil packs. Again no change. Only code it throws is a EGR high flow after I fixed the hole but was having problems before that.
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Well, I have been through the tech folder and all over the forum reading but cant seem to come up with a good first step. When i accelerate the truck shakes, by the sound it seems that its missing a cylinder. I guess it could also be the motor mounts. Besides replacing the plugs and coils, is there something else that could remedy a misfires or dead cylinder?
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Issues with either a CEL for evap emissions gross leak or a constant Gas Cap Light popping up...? My dealer says its probably some part of the purge system, possibly the purge valve or charcoal canister... How the system works and what parts are major players?
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2002 V6 2.8L Passat 4mo wagon, I have 113K on my car, after changed timing belt I have been fixing oil leaks constantly. Not sure that these are related, but, co-incidental. These are not cheap to fix, so ... Having oil leak issues with this engine? Should I just keep fixing these until it finally dies?
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I have had my B7 for about 6 Months now and love the car except that the car sounds worse than my MK4 and the B6 that it replaced. I have solved most of the rattles and queaks and cracks but as soon as I fix them a week later I have 5 new ones. I have attempted to fix them using different sizes of felt pads after a few trips to the dealer and the fix kits did not work.
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So i had a burning oil smell for 2 years. I finally brought it to the shop and had the valve cover gasket changed as well as the chain tensioner gasket. I now have a constant burn smell. It cannot be burn off because when i open the hood i see it dripping on the cat. converter i just cannot see from where. I seems to be right behind the heat shield that covers the edge of the valvle cover. What else could be wrong here?
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I have a 2000 Passat 1.8T and I am having a weird "harmonic" (for lack of a better word) vibration that is constant from start up to shut down, I just had the motor mounts replaced and the chain tensor replaced, I have 125K the car. Tires are new as of April and I have had this issue long before then. I have also noticed randomly the idle goes kind of physco for a few seconds here and there - not sure if the two are related.
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