Tonite on the drive home it was about 10 F and once my car was up to temp, I put my foot into it, I felt the car hesitate a bit, the CEL flashed a few times and went off. Could the cold temp cause that or is it more likely a bad coil?
View 6 RepliesWhen outside temps are cold (below 35 degrees) my 2002 camry 2.4L will missfire and run rough. It is very noticeable. After I drive it 10-20 miles and get it good and warm it comes out of it and is fine. It sets no codes or turns on any lights. It did this two winters ago and I finally read somewhere to replace the mass airflow sensor, so I did and it seemed to fix it. It did not act up last winter at all but this winter it started doing it again. So I replaced the mass airflow sensor again but it did not seem to make a difference.
View 10 Replies2001 B5.5 V6 Passat 4-motion.
there is a misfire code in plugs/wires/coil...one of those...but car isn't really running rough. the big prob i notice is when you start pushing accelerator, it wants to shift to 2nd even at like 5mph...can't be normal. can that be related to the misfire code showing up?
the car 07 passat wagon fsi auto value edition.. This is my first winter in Maine and I've noticed by 35 degrees F and colder when vehicle is at operating temp and then I use the cabin blower say 72 degrees or hotter on fan speed 2; causes engine temp to drop maybe 10-15 degrees. Car reaches operating temp quickly! And coolant concentration seems right!
View 2 RepliesBought a 2006 (later production) with 25,000 miles over the weekend. Couldn't pass up the price and the warranty (1 year left + CPO). Picked up the car Saturday at noon..... had to drive to DC for business and the CEL came on when I turned on the car this morning. I researched at lunch that it could be a cold start misfire but I am already pretty heated about this. When I get home tonight I am going to plug it in to my OBDII scanner and see what I can pull. If it is something bad.... I am giving it back to the dealership.
View 24 RepliesI get a cold start ignition miss on cyl #2, then goes away (with a little revving), car then runs 100%. No problems during hot re-start. 2005 1.8T AWM. I replaced all four plugs (NGK OEM), all four coils (OEM latest rev), Coolant temp sensor (temp gauge was flaky). No other codes other than Cyl#2 miss and Random Cyl miss. Could I have a leaking (fuel dribbles out) injector on Cyl #2, causing a too-rich misfire when the car is cold started??
View 6 RepliesI keep getting oil in my coil well rear left side causing a misfire. I have already changed the seal twice not sure how oil is getting there or how to stop it.
View 3 Replies2001 V6 Passat with 125k miles throwing a P0430 code.
Having trouble on cold starts, takes about 10 minutes to finally get it to turn over. When it does the idle is extremely rough. For the first 1/4 mile the car bucks, stutters, and misfires. After that it runs fine and starts fine when already warm. I am noticing slightly decreased gas mileage but nothing major.
Valve cover gaskets were replaced 2 months ago, but were leaking oil for at least a year before I could afford to have them replaced. I am still noticing some oil leakage, however not as much as before. I have had both O2 sensors replaced twice in the past 5 years. Timing belt was replaced at 98k. What might be causing the starting issues?
I just bought a 2007 f150 4x4 5.4 triton with 69 thousand miles less than a month ago. Since then the transmission has been rebuild but come to find out a misfire will cause overdrive to act up, and it just recently started misfiring badly. It was throwing a code. 2 coils were replaced and still misfiring. It's not throwing a code anymore. No check engine light flashing or nothing.
View 1 RepliesI'm experiencing since outside temps are down here in Canada heavy brake squeal in the front. It is barely audible at -2/-3 Celsius, but lower (-10 and lower), it's really aggressive.
One week ago when very cold outside, I went to the dealer, I insisted for a test drive because of the cold condition this day. The tech notice the problem, and we scheduled an appointment for the next week to look at brake pads.
it's -1 outside, so brakes do not squeals... The service advisor told me, the tech (the one that tested it last week) is absent today. so if we look at this and found nothing, you will pay for the work...
So I need to wait a colder temperature to come back to the dealer...
The question is : what do you think about this problem ? are brake pads defective ? It's happen a low speed, regular braking (stop or light).
I am having a crank and no start issue for a while now In Cold Temps -20 Celsius Or Colder... dealership checked fuses and relays they came back fine. there was an active CEL code for Low System Voltage would that have something to do with my problem here, and what else could be the problem? this has happened in the past after short 2 min drive and go in the store and come back out from being in the store for a few mins, eventually it does turn over but not without alot of cranking and curse words, until now I just found out after a longer 20 min trip it did it again, telling me its getting worse. 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 kms....
View 11 RepliesI have a 1997 Dodge Neon with about 153,XXX miles on it. My check engine light has been on and i know that is caused by a random misfire. But more recently i went to start my car and it started but ran for less then 10 seconds and died. I tried to start it again and it wanted to but wouldnt make the final step i guess. We checked my spark plugs and i had oil sitting in 3 of the 4 there are. We have tried starting it again after cleaning the oil out and it started on the first try, I am just afraid of messing anything else up so until we figure out why it did this to begin with the vehicle is off limits. My Fiance said we need to replace the spark plugs and a gasket.
View 4 RepliesWinter temps are dropping my mpgs from 51-53 mpg to the 44-47 mpg range. Snow, rain, slush puts drag on the car, as well as temps in the 20-40s causing the ICE to run more during warmup and during the 15 mile trip I make daily. Also mpgs in town on 1-3 mile trips are dropping into 29-33 mpg range. I guess the Prius isn't made to thrive in cold temps. I don't know if there is much I can do about it. I did remember to raise the pressures in my tires which has dropped also.
View 19 RepliesI has been quite cold in my area lately. Buy cold, I mean like 0 or a few degrees below. We also had some snow which ahs made it a requirement to drive my 4WD Ford truck with the 4.6L engine. This is a 1997 Ford F-150 light duty which is the oddball with the 7 lug wheels among others. It is 4WD with a manual transmission. The truck has close to 300k on it and I was told it had a used engine installed when I bought the truck but have never been able to verify this. The engine runs well without odd noises or clanks and doesn't burn or use oil. I have the O'Reilly brand 5W30 synthetic oil in the engine.
There has been a strange whine that comes from the engine at startup in these very cold temps. This only lasts a few short seconds and quickly goes away. I have the manual transmission in neutral so I figure it is engine related and not the transmission. It sounds like a gear noise or whine so I am assuming maybe the oil is too thick to get through the oil pump, timing chain, or similar.
This only happens at cold starts when it is VERY cold outside but I wanted to make sure this wasn't a sign of impending failure. The truck runs well otherwise and I would gladly replace the oil pump if it were going out. I was also thinking about switching to a 0W30 as the truck is mostly used in the winter anyway if the oil not being thick enough is a possibility.
So my oil light was blinking on 03 jetta 1.8t for a week or so because of the cold temps where i am once my car reaches temp if you turn off the car and turn it back on my light stays off. i had a oil change recently hubby did that plus i had all my fluids checked and had to have my dipstick tube replaced because it broke.
I had a mechanic who lives in my complex take a look at the car and he said everything is running fine. So today I started my car then my oil light went on again it has been a lot colder than the past few days could that be the reason? My cars not overheating at all but once it gets to temp if you shut and turn the car back on the light goes away. My car only has 88 thousand miles on it and we used the proper oil for the oil change..
Was 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
View 1 RepliesAfter/during the rain, every other time my truck loses considerable power to accelerate. It's not consistent but happens increasingly often. As I accelerate up to ~ 50km/h (also when I reverse), my engine will shake the entire truck. Past 50 it "appears" to go away. Typically this will last up to 10 mins and will disappear and run fine again. The last time it happened the check engine light came on and went away the next day. After reading online, I've heard about the "COP" connection??
2003 Ford F-150, 4.6L Triton V8 XL, 2WD
2015 Outlook 2.5 CVT - Regardless of engine temp/or oil temp, transmission will stay in low gears (relative - its a CVT) such that the car is always doing approx. 2100 RPMs. When it occurs, 35mph is 2100 RPMs; when problem is not present, same speed would be approx 1200 RPMs. Same for higher speed. 45mph would be 2100 verses approx 1400rpm. Gear indicator does indicate a '4' or '5' when it would normally be '6'.
Outside temps in excess of 30 degress - no evidence of problem. Below 30, may or may not happen. No check engine light and it does affect MPG significantly.
So, I got in my car this morning, it started fine, no CEL, pulled out onto the main road and while while accelerating, it started to sputter and the CEL flashed several times. I turned back into my neighborhood, expecting it to stall, but it didn't. I sat there for a second, it was running fine, but I felt a few slight rumbles while idling, enough to make me nervous, but not enough to prevent me from continuing to work (I'm out of PTO).
So, I continued on, no CEL, accelerated and the sputtering happened again, slowed down, lightly pressed the gas pedal and it was fine. I made it to work. I just got the APR programming on Monday. I ordered the TT225 diverter valve.
I have a 337 with Injen cai. Well, I have since removed the cai due to the fact that rainwater/water during a car wash will run off the hood and onto the top of the inside of the drivers side fender (under hood) and eventually run down onto the filter itself, thus causing it to become water logged. This of course is not good. My question.. I've tried so many things to no avail.
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