Passat (B6) :: Cold Start Delay / Rough Idle
Sep 28, 2011
I got the fuel pump and fuel pump control module replaced. Now I am still getting a cold start delay (5-10 seconds to start) and it has a rough idle sounding like its misfiring. This happened when i picked it up at the dealership after a new fuel pump BUT! keep in mind it has been doing this for a while so i figured it was the fuel pump.
New oem plugs and the coils were replaced when i bought the car because the coils failed during a test drive I need to scan the codes but i will post. Also this only happens during a cold start. if the car is warm and i go into target or something then start it shortly after its fine.
TSB'S I think will fix this. [URL] .....
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My 1.8t is very rough at idle when cold, smooths out when over 1000 rpm and when at normal operating temperature. Code reader says 171 and misfires.
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I have a 99 silverado with the 4.8 w/186k on the clock. I am having an issue with rough idle and hesitation on cold start up. Once the truck warms up the idle and hesitation go away. I have replaced the PCV valve hoping this fixed it, but it did not. I have also cleaned the TB and the MAF.
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I have a 99 lesabre cold start rough idle but smooths out . Warm no start. Trouble codes P0171, P0300, P0336. Had plennum replaced 2 years ago but I'm seeing coolant around the base of the plennum so I'm going to have to do that again but I don't think that has anything to do with the warm no start.
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My 2007 TrailBlazer with 84K stumbles for 25 seconds when I start up cold. After 25 seconds I hear a click and then it runs perfect. No engine codes present. Have new plugs, new O2 sensor, new thermostat.
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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder. The problem we are having is the car has a slight rough idle only at cold start. After she warms up she is smooth as glass. What would cause this?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4cylinder. On first start of the day the engine shakes a little untill it warms up and is driven for about 2 blocks. After that it is smooth. I cleaned what I could of the throttle body on the car, changed spark plugs and PCV. All that worked but cold start shake still there.
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I'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
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2008 VR6 Touareg with 71,000 miles. When he starts it cold the idle jumps around and is very rough. After 30 seconds or so it calms down, but you can tell it's still just not right. It also makes this puffing sound especially around the exhaust. At least puffing is how I'd describe it, maybe I can take a video of it at some point. No visible issues anywhere in the engine bay or anything that looks out of place. I ran an auto scan with VAG-COM and I pulled absolutely no faults. I found that puzzling.
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My 07 F-150 5.4 has a rough idle during a cold start for about 1 minute. It happens mostly when the weather is chilly or cold. Also after the first start it doesn't do it the rest of the day. Of coarse they can't find anything wrong and tell me there are no updates for anything like that.
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So this is weird. When it is cold outside it takes a few minutes before my stereo will work. It powers on and you get a quick blip of audio but then it takes a few minutes before it will work again. What is causing this issue?
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I have been debating if i should use seafoam engine treatment. My truck has been having issues with the first cold start of the day. I've noticed the rough idle that accompanies the cold start. I live in Denver so this truck sees alot of stop n go traffic. Will seafoam do anything about the dirty fuel injectors. They have to be replaced here soon but will adding seafoam solution buy me more time. If so, what are the steps on how to add. The can isn't very detailed on instructions and Internet isn't being useful. I have an 04 F250 Lariat Power Stroke 6.0L diesel
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I've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
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1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
Having a rough idle on a cold start. After some research and closer inspection of the vehicle, I'm quite certain I have at least one leaking injector that is flooding a cylinder and causing the car to misfire on a cold start. I'm also not at the gas mileage I should be at.
So I'm wondering, is fuel injector replacement as straightforward of a job as it looks? Any major issues I could run into in doing a replacement?
I'm planning on replacing all six injectors (I can get them for $50 each buying online with a discount code), but given that the vehicle is so old am I better off just replacing the faulty ones? I'm assuming pulling the spark plugs and seeing which cylinder is wet will tell me which I need to replace.
And one more question: Is there a way to depressurize the fuel system when I park the car for the night, thus preventing fuel (or most of it) from leaking into the engine until I get this fixed? I've read that just unscrewing the gas cap can depressurize the system.
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Ive noticed that if I start my car, and put it into drive, there's a 2-3 second delay before the car moves after hitting the gas. It almost feels like the car is stalling, but it's not. It only happens that first time after a cold start.
If I put my car into reverse first, like when backing out of the garage, it doesn't do it. Only when going directly from park to drive. Is this normal?
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Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
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My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
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Check out how loud my cold start idle is. Still can't figure out why you can't hear the turbo on start up though. Even revving at idle you can't hear it that much. I've seen plenty of gti's with more exhaust restriction then i have and you can hear it clearly. [URL] .....
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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I've got an "on- and off-going" problem with my '92 S10 Blazer.
Car specs:
Year 1992
Blazer S10 4.3 Tbi
4- doors 4WD
Mileage 200k miles
Symptoms:
As cold, every now and then it will start right up, but the idle is wery rough, and seems like its running on less than 6 cylinders. When giving gas, it revs up, but runs roughly and still seems to be running on less than 6. Won't stall though.
When engine warms up after a couple of minutes, the idle gets smooth and no issues what ever when driving.
So just to be clear, this issue is so far only happening when staring cold.
Parts (new off course) changed recently (less than 500miles on them):
Distributor
Spark plugs + wires
Alternator
Battery
IAC valve
Fuel filter
This symptom came up now and then before changing any parts. I am quite handy with cars (pure amateur though), but can't really afford solving the proble by changing loads of parts with no effect..
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