Passat (B6) :: Clutch Shudders Sometimes When Cold
Dec 20, 2013
I have a 1996 VW Passat TDI which has a 5 speed stick (they all did). Yes, it's really old but it runs great and gets 45 mpg. However, the model is probably not relevant to this problem. My question has to do with clutch performance. When the car is cold (and it's cold outside), the car sometimes shudders starting out in first gear for a couple minutes. I have tried to be extra careful letting out the clutch in these circumstances. Sometimes that works, but it doesn't eliminate the problem. After about 5 minutes or so the clutch starts working well as it usually does.
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I have a 2001 F-150 4.2L 2WD LS with 102k miles. At 95k miles, the clutch slave cylinder started leaking fluid. So, I had my local garage replace it. And while they were at it, put in a new clutch. That is when the trouble started.
I cannot let the clutch out like I used too. When letting out the clutch from a dead stop,the rear end now shakes, shutters, and if it is really bad, the rear end starts bouncing. To minimize the shakes, I have to keep the engine below 1000rpm until the clutch/1<sup>st</sup> gear is fully engage. It is worst when there is a load on the truck like going uphill, or a sharp turn for a dead stop. After the truck gets rolling, I don’t notice the problem when shifting gears.
I have been babying it for 7k miles and it has not improved. What is wrong? Did I get a bad clutch job?
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I just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
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When stationary the vehicle shudders randomly as if it is cold. When moving it seems to judder and almost burst with power then lose power again, over 3000 rpm the problem becomes less of an issue but the vehicle does occasionally judder still as if the tyres have low pressure - which they don't.
At first I thought the oil may need filling up but after this the problem still persisted. I have also checked all spark plugs and no wires or tubes appear to have come loose. I read on anpther forum that the clutch have have been soaked? - If a new clutch is needed, how much that would cost?
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So I have a 2012 TDI. 55k miles on it. Maintained 100 percent at he dealer. My wife takes the car to work today and three blocks away from the house, the car shudders and shuts off won't turn back on. I go get her so she can take another car to work and when I try to crank the car, it says Engine off, Oil pressure. Car won't turn on.
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When I'm driving and i let off the gas and come to a stop, my car dips close to 200rpm below idle and shudders slightly and goes back to idle.
My car just doesn't seem to have the amount of power that it should. My roommate has a 1.8t jetta with just a few more mods than I do and his car seems so much faster. I put an APR chip in my car and i still have a lag in the throttle..my car jerks..and it just doesn't seem that my car has the right amount of power.
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My car started a rough idle last night.... Pull to stop light, in gear, a/c on #1 and car shudders and acts like it's going to stall..... Went away as I drove a round a bit.....back this a.m. (after the warm up program ran) drove it a bit and was sporadic.....and even went away...then came back.....
Its worse when car is at stop and in 'D'.....little better with a/c off and/or in neutral......it finally threw the CEL today....... I had the fuel pump recall done about a month or two ago, car has 36k+ on it...... Anything I should have the service dept look for aside from what the fault codes might read?
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I ran into a new one with my 2000 1.8T Auto. When pulling out of my garage when I move the shifter from P to R, I felt a very strong jerk and the whole car shudders. Same from R to D. I drove straight to AAMCO which was the nearest repair shop. Although the drive was smooth (no additional noises etc) the acceleration was noticeably slow.
Recent work on the car:
-Timing belt replacement 3 months back.
-Battery replacement last night.
Engine light is on and came on 2 days back.
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Our 2008 2.0T Variant with 70K miles runs fine, except while running fully warmed up on the highway. Then, at cruising speed, the engine shudders if you try anything more than gentle acceleration. If you push deliberately on the gas at about 1,500 rpm, the engine shudders, fails to accelerate, and the MIL flashes. This has been going on for a few months.
Wifey is about to go on a road trip and, although she's adjusted to this behavior, I don't wanted her stranded somewhere. The engine is throwing code P0301 (got it read at AutoZone), Cylinder 1 Misfire.
I'm wondering why it only misfires under these conditions, and not, say, while accelerating off the line or while idling.
Any tips? I've already put a bottle of Techron through the tank. Car has had all recall/service bulletin work done, which as I remember included a coil pack recall a few years ago.
I wonder if getting the car into the stealership before her trip is a "must." (I don't have my own scanning tool in order to sequentially troubleshoot coil packs. I can at least check plug wiring.
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My 2006 Honda Odyssey lost the a/c last week. No cold air. After troubleshooting myself, I took it to the shop I use and they came up with it being the compressor clutch. But you can just replace the clutch, so a new compressor. My question is... What's a good price for this repair? In this vehicle the compressor replacement requires the alternator, etc... To come out first before you can even get to the compressor. So, I'm not really excited enough about it to do it myself. Which I think could, except for the discharging the refrigerant.
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I might trade this '13 Elantra GT for a '14 or '15. Too many problems. I knew I shouldn't have bought a first year model.
When the engine is cold, the clutch slips. When it warms up, the clutch is strong like how it should be. Having a slipping clutch when engine is cold? My car only has 7,000 miles and I drive conservatively.
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I Just replaced the ac condenser filled it with new freon and now the clutch cycles on and off every few seconds but doesn't blow cold air. Does it need to settle for a while or run on high max AC for a while before it works properly? I filled it to the proper level. I'm pretty confident its full. Do I need to adjust anything? It hasn't worked in a few years I bet. I just got the truck. 2001 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel ....
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I had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.
I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)
I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.
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20th with 120,000 miles. Ok here's my problem, get in my car in the morning after a coldish night, (around freezing) clutch pedal goes almost to the floor with no resistance, i pump it a say 5 or 6 times and it gets stiffer but not 100% i drive it for 10 or 15 min and it warms up and the clutch gets back to normal stiffness. I'm thinking its the master or slave cylinder going bad or maybe it just needs to be bled and before i go and buy both of them and replace them, just wanted some opinions. Also its not leaking fluid at all and the reservoir is full.
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At the first of summer I had typical A/C Clutch cycling not much cold air. Checked the Low Press side said it was low PSI took a Gamble that the pump was good and just filled it worked great. Lost All A/C the other day checked it out thought it may have small leak somewhere but clutch didn't cycle hardly at all Had a gut feeling it wasn't simple leak.
Well I just found a Hole in the condenser at the bottom Tube that runs across. So looking for new condenser. I also don't know what to do with recharging it and the ac oil in the system how much? maybe its safe to say most the oil was pumped out. Would standard procedure be to repair it then FLush cooling system to get to a baseline and then refill prescribed amount of oil and Freon
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Here is my problem: A/C not blowing cold air, blower motor working fine, checked all relevant fuses for A/C and R202 relay under the hood. Everything is fine here. Next, low pressure switch, jumped, clutch does not engage. Next removed relay R202 (clutch relay) measured voltages (at female sockets) where pins 1 and 3 would go, voltage OK. Jumped where pins 3 and 5 would go (bypass to see if clutch engages) and it does. Appears that the pressure switches check out OK (low pressure and A/C cycling switch - although this one not sure). CarMD unit was used as well, and no codes generated so perhaps PCM is working OK? I'm stumped, as a loss of GND by PCM or perhaps a corroded or open wire issue??
Also, possible the A/C switch on the HVAC control could be bad, but the light comes on, (doesn't mean switch is good necessarily). The rest of that unit works fine, control ***** that is, fan speed adjusts properly, air flow looks good. It appears this is an electrical problem where the clutch is not getting juice but I don't know the source of the problem. However, I also noticed that when the clutch/compressor was running (temporarily as described above) cold air still didn't come out. This, I assume, would mean I would need to add refrigerant or re-charge the A/C AFTER I get the clutch to engage electrically. 2004 F-150 5.4L ....
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I've observed that on a cold start first thing in the morning that there is a noise that appears to come with the depression/release of the clutch. This only occurs the first couple of times and then goes away. My drive is down a hill with speed bumps so the clutch gets used a couple of times shifting down from 3rd to 2nd. After the third/fourth/fifth depression of the clutch the noise goes away.
The car as of now only has 140 miles on it. My daily commute is 2.5 miles each way.
I've emailed the Ford dealer from where I purchased the car, but had no response.
Sounds like the clutch release bearing to me.
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The A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.
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2002 F350 with V10. A/C stopped blowing cold. I can hear the clutch clicking on and off, so probably needs refrigerant? Other thing is that with A/C off, the temp control turned to cold, and fan on, it blows hot air. On my other vehicles with A/C off and temp turned to cold, I get outside air at ambient temp.
I removed the cover off the evap core under the dash and observed the blend door opening and closing as the temp selector is moved. The duct door moves correctly, so am I'm missing something? Is the Ford system such that ambient air is always heated? This happens even in cold temp conditions.
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When I bought my 2004 Passat three months ago, I was told that the clutch was brand new. Lately when I take a corner in second gear, I get a "whole car seizure" if I am hitting the gas a little hard while not letting up the clutch enough. I've never had this happen before in ANY of the other standards I have owned / driven.
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I have a 02 passat 1.8t 5sp so my question is does clutch catch all the way at the top. this doesn't seem right to me because my brother has had a jetta and the new mk5 gti and they both catch low.
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