Passat (B6) :: Cluster Trim Right Above Dash Display Rattles / Creaks
Mar 16, 2009
So I've been able to suppress all of the rattles in my car except one: The cluster trim right above the display rattles, it creaks, hell, I can hold a conversation with it. What can be done to remedy it? The 'turn up the radio' technique doesn't work.
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I traded my 2010 Prius II in for a 2012 Honda CR-Z Hybrid EX NAV this morning and it was bitter sweet... I just could not take anymore of the endless rattles and creaks that were in the interior of the car...
I know some people had great cars that were very quiet, but my Prius was not one of them - The interior rattles, combined with the rattle under the front that the dealer could never seem to hear was all I could take...
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On my 2 door GTI, I had 2 rattles. One was coming from the door latch mechanism, and the other was coming from the black plastic b pillar trim. I picked up a can of "Blaster" silicon spray from Home Depot and sprayed just a little bit into the latching mechanism (on the door side). So far this has completely eliminated the knocking noise that I would hear in the door when driving over bumps.
On my drive afterwards, I kept hearing the infamous noise from the b-pillar trim, which seems to be a result of heat expansion when going from cold temp.... how the piece would sit there creaking when the car wasn't even moving. Anyways, I sprayed some of the silicon lube onto a q-tip and applied it to the edge of the plastic b-pillar trim that runs along the inside edge of the door. I guess I put enough on the q-tip to get it inside the edge of the plastic where it touches the metal of the door.
So far, my car is quiet as a mouse. It feels so good to have my car sound like the day I drove it off the lot!
Disclaimer: It could be a coincidence and perhaps the b-pillar had finally warmed up to a temp where it stopped creaking on its own, but it DID stop creaking as soon as I drove off after applying the lube. I'll post back if anything changes.
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So I finally decided to look into all the little creaks and rattles that the R makes while going over bumps in the road.
-Wrapped the latches of the rear seats in electrical tape, and put adhesive velcro (soft side) on the back of the seats where it meets plastic.
-Took apart the center console and put adhesive felt around the areas where plastic makes contact with other plastic
-Put adhesive felt inside the aluminum trim & Monsoon radio to stop shaking
So all those little fixes eliminated most of the rattling sounds in the car. All that I need to look into are the driver and passenger doors to secure whatever is rattling/shaking inside those panels. Something to do this coming week. I normally would leave these noises alone, but damn they drive me crazy like it's a form of Chinese water torture. I hope to have no more rattles in the following week.
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Recently bought a CPO 2010 RX350 with 57k miles on it at a dealer on 8/30/14. Its developed quite a bit of interior rattles and creaks from what sounds like the structure over bumps and roads that aren't smooth. Plus the sunroof has a high frequency rattle. None of these were present during the test drive.
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Rattling going on in my dash. The computer is causing some noises inside the dash. The worst part are the irregular bass noises that are heard near the glove compartment. I can live with the other sounds, but the bass noises near the glove compartment are very annoying. Looking for a solution to elliminate those noises easily?
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Looking to wrap the dash trim the piece across the dash and the trim around the information display. Any tips? Also for the console.
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How to remove the plastic dash trim on the Passenger side? Is there a way to do this without removing the glovebox? I know there is one screw that needs to be removed. Mine creaks pretty badly. Ive already removed the center console trim and added felt to all those pieces. No more ticks/ creaks.
I guess I could have the dealer remove it but I dont want them taking my glovebox out to do it = more rattles. Why does VW make it so difficult to remove something that should be so simple!!
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Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
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I had this in my 06 Passat, it was turned on by the dealer I guess, my 08 Passat doesn't show it. I know there's a little trick but can't find any info.
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With my B6 '09 wagon, when I turn off ESP by pressing the console button, the icon flashes on the dash display and then goes out. Is this working correctly? I would think it would flash when ESP is on and it has encountered slipping and corrected. With the button set to off, I would think the light would stay lit on the dash?
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I wa driving my my 02 today and looking at the dash there is display of a car. Mine displays with what looks like the drivers door open.
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Just bought a 2012 2.5l last week, and have a question about the MPG display on the dash. When I bought it from the dealer it had a full tank and it showed I had about 500+ miles left. Yesterday I filled up the tank again and now it only showed I have 405 miles, but as I drove it bounced around from 415-400. after driving about 35 miles its still at 405 miles. Just wondering if this is how it's supposed to be, if I have to reset something every time I fill up, or if something is wrong? I've always had mk4 so I'm not all up to date on the "new".
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So i just bought my 2003 passat wagone gls 1.8tand it has this "STOP" "BRAKE FAULT" coming up on the dash display and the ABS light and traction control light is on steady and the BRAKE light is flashing....a code was ran for the speed sensor and that was replaced but the light is still on....what could it be?????
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Now that its cold out, my car sounds awful. I read something about the LCA bushings... What to replace?
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The instrument panel on my Prius (speedometer, fuel gauge, etc. on the dash) keeps going out intermittently. Took it to the Toyota place and of course the lights were back on.
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I have notice that all the FM stations will show-up in the cluster display but AM will not . When I use the Knurled wheel on AM it will not scroll the select stations. Also can you program AM and FM effects in memory?
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My Passat seems happy enough. Been over a year since I've had a problem. Not even a CEL. My dilema is do I take this into the dealer for warranty work or best leave well enough alone.
For kicks I did a Vag COm scan the other day (last one was a year ago and I cleared the codes ) and I have a handful of intermittent codes again. Mostly the same. Cleared again, rescanned in a week and only one came back. They are mostly Central Convenience / HVAC codes. The one that came back was one of 2 codes for positioning motors in the HVAC.
I know digging into dash stuff isn't fun. Creaks and squeaks and demons come out if the the tech isn't careful in what he does. I'm not noting any issues at all.
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The instrument cluster screen in my 2004 phaeton suddenly stopped displaying anything today, I've tried removing and replacing fuses but still nothing, not even the backlight for the display is on, everything else is working fine its just the display. I need the car for a 600mi trip in 2 days.
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Started my 2013 RX this afternoon and it indicates these two alarms on the instrument cluster, Engine Check Light & Track Off. Found out that my gas cap was not tightened (let my son fill the tank when he borrowed it the night before). Hooked up my OBD II scanner to clear and it shows two codes P0441 & P0445. They reset but my scanner says they are permanent. What does that mean? Will stay as an error until the ECU says otherwise?
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Looking for instructions on how to remove the dash. I've given up on my dealership trying to fix the rattles... Any how-to or photos of dash removal?
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