Today for the first time, my fan won't run on anything but "4". Car only has 2K miles, and of course I'll take it to the dealer unless it's something I can fix with VAG-COM.
View 2 RepliesMy climatic A/C system is making a buzzing noise when I press the recirc button. After I press the button it sounds like the recirc flaps are trying to actuate but are broken or the motor is not working. It makes two different distinct noises when going into recirc and out of recirc. How hard this is to fix since I'm sure it is located in the dash.
View 5 RepliesThe lights do not work on the Climatic control unit. When I press the AC button, it lights up though. What causes this or how I can fix it? We have an '01 Passat GLS.
View 1 Replies2002 Dodge Ram 3500 van (engine unknown, but I think it doesn't matter). Blower operate only at highest speed setting. OK, that's the classic symptom of a failed resistor. Replacements are readily available at chain parts stores.
Where is the resistor located? This video shows me for a 2002 Ram 1500 van. Will it be the same on the 3500?
I've learned here that sometimes resistor failure results from bearings going bad in the blower, causing excessive current draw. Is there a way to test that other than with an ammeter? What's the correct current?
2a. If the blower motor is going bad, is that something we'll be able to replace ourselves? (Yes, I should tell them to get a Haynes or Chilton.) I don't like the idea of taking off dashboard panels.
2b. Is there any other "prime cause" I should look for if the blower motor seems OK?
Are there any other parts (other than the switch) whose failure would also give that symptom?
The switch is broken internally and the wipers are set on the highest speed. For now I just pulled the wiper fuse so I can still drive to work and whatnot without burning up the wiper motor. Were I can find a cheap replacement switch? 97 LSi SDN ....
View 3 RepliesMy 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
View 1 RepliesSo compared to my old Jetta, these wipers are "fairly" slow at the highest seeting, and in a down poor at 70 mph they do not clear the windshield fast enough.
View 5 RepliesI have noticed a humming noise above and beyond the normal fan noise when my t-reg is heating. I confirmed it is with the heating as when I turned the temp down, the noise quit at a lower temp and wasn't heating. The humming is distinct, almost like a small motor running or something and stems from driver's left.
View 4 RepliesI have 2011 camry, which I drive at 30 to 40 mph some times its shaking. if I leave steering wheel it moving little left and right itself. (just little but going straight almost). what will be the problem is? current odometer 43K. no accident.
View 9 RepliesI have a 56 Belair with a small block 327 in it. Runs hot when idling or slow speed. Original radiator with brass cowling on top. Can the radiator be cored or cleaned out? Is there a fluid that will work? How about a special oil?
View 7 RepliesDo I have to pull out the complete switch assembly, or could it be some thing else?
View 4 RepliesI have noticed that my vehicles engine fan runs at max speed (and is very loud) all the time. Regardless of outside temperature, engine temperature, climate control settings, etc. It runs like that from the second I turn it on until I shut it off.
I have done some research online and found that people with a similar concern have been told that it could possibly be either the Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. I know that it could be a wide variety of issues, however it seemed as though these were common (and relatively easy) solutions. Does anything think either/both of these could be the problem? If so, need info about the proper part and instructions/video on how to install the new parts.
I would much rather spend ~$50 for two parts than screw around taking it in. If my attempts dont work, at least I know that I have 2 new parts in there. Or is this not really anything that I should worry about?
Additionally, my climate control settings dont all work. And I have found through research that I need to replace the blower resistor. Would this have any impact on the engine fan? I drive a 2012 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6
The 2010 JSW si identical to VW Golf MkVI in respect of interior and controls. Unfortunately TDI trim is not available with dual zone climatronic - I ended up with manual Climatic control.
I compared the climatic and climatronic panels for MkVI and found out that the back side connectors looks compatible - the only difference is that Manual Climatic has dummy data communication port (I checked it physically myself after dismantling the panel) and has only one control output socket (The climatronic panel has two exactly the same identical sockets - dual zone control I suppose).
A simple swap of other control panels will work to provide single zone automatic operation of air condition system in my 2010 VW JSW TDI?
2000 1.8t ATW/AEB auto. We completed the motor swap and the car ran/runs perfectly. Everything functions but just outta the blue the aux fan decides to run when the key is on the on position. And no the A/C is not turned on.
Pulling relay 214 does nothing! It still runs. Pulling ALL relays does not do anything...it still runs. It has constant voltage to it while the key is on. The car runs perfect otherwise but the aux fan is incredibly loud and makes the driving experience suck.
The car is a 2000 passat v6 with ~135k, auto trans. Well when the car is cranked it takes a bit to get running and once it does, black(wet) specs come out the exhaust and go all cover the surrounding area of the tailpipe. When the a/c is off it almost sounds like it is running normal but when the a/c is on(at idle) the engine runs very rough, it almost sounds like a misfire. It does have a check engine light, but i have no obd2 scanner, and from what i've been reading might not even do me any good because of vag com?
View 5 RepliesThe SAI pump (part number 021 959 253 B) on my 97 Passat continues to run intermittently after the car is turned off, eventually draining the battery. How do I fix?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 VW Passat that I cannot communicate with the ECU. I have the latest version of the Vagcom software downloaded. It has the factory radio installed and still will not communicate. The car runs, but runs rough. Anything else to check?
View 5 RepliesI'm working on a 06' Passat 2.0t and it runs rough only at idle like its misfiring only vag-com says no misfires and no engine codes. MAF looks like it may be a little low on performance but should be ok. I tried swapping out coil packs but no change. I changed the pcv breather and hose, cleaned the carbon off the valves, swapped the throttle body with a known good one, and changed the piston on the fuel pump and still no change. It smooths out when I turn the a/c on but that's the only thing that changes the idle.
View 7 RepliesMy 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
View 1 RepliesMy V6 3.2l runs very rough for 1-2 minutes at startup when cold i.e. the first startup of the day, or after it has not been driven for several hours. Is this normal? I understand this might be something to do with the 'anti-knocking' feature. But I only use RON 98. Also I can here something like a tappet sticking when idle all the time. Is this normal, is it just a noisy engine design? The car has only done 1800kms.
View 2 RepliesInstalling STs on my mk6 tomorrow. Doing it in a steep driveway. want to be on the highest setting when I leave. regular v1 st coil over.
View 1 Replies