Passat (B6) :: Climatic AC System Is Making Buzzing Noise
Sep 17, 2010
My climatic A/C system is making a buzzing noise when I press the recirc button. After I press the button it sounds like the recirc flaps are trying to actuate but are broken or the motor is not working. It makes two different distinct noises when going into recirc and out of recirc. How hard this is to fix since I'm sure it is located in the dash.
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So the problem seems to be the climatronic system is constantly trying to adjust the temperature but the problem is that the motors or servos are making an annoying ticking noise as it adjusts. I already had the blend door assembly replaced but the noise is still there. My Touareg has climatronic and doesn't make any noise, so don't believe I should be getting this noise in my Passat. Service advisor claims its normal to make some noise since his Passat does the same thing, but I don't buy that. So who has had the same issue and got it fixed properly? What did they replace?
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I have just changed my transmission because the old one failed me and i notice that it makes a buzzing noise. It only makes this noise while in drive or reverse but when parked the noise goes away. My car runs perfectly normal but doesn't seem to "sound" as if it did. Its a 2000 lincoln ls. V8 4d sedan....
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I bought an hid kit for my 2013 elantra a month ago... When I installed them with the relay, I have flickering issues and the relay makes a buzzing noise... How can i fix this???
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Today for the first time, my fan won't run on anything but "4". Car only has 2K miles, and of course I'll take it to the dealer unless it's something I can fix with VAG-COM.
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Yesterday I noticed the rear driver's side speaker buzzing in my GTI S. Is it possible that I already have a blown speaker (I don't usually crank the system)? Maybe it has something to do with the -5 temps? Anyway, should I take it to the dealer or see about getting some aftermarket speakers since the S sound system is pretty mediocre?
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The lights do not work on the Climatic control unit. When I press the AC button, it lights up though. What causes this or how I can fix it? We have an '01 Passat GLS.
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My 1994 Acura Integra makes a buzzing noise exactly between 3000 and 3500 RPMS. It sounds kind of like the sound a circular saw would make cutting wood. It only happens when I am accelerating through that range. Also, sometimes after driving for a while, it doesn't last as long and the noise stops around 3300 RPMS. I've checked the heat shield and it seems to be fine so I don't think its that. What this could be caused by?
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My 2002 outback tape deck, which I use primarily to listen to my phone via a cassette adaptor, has recently started making a very loud buzzing/humming noise. It does this with both my old and a new adaptor, as well as a standard audio tape.
I could try using a head cleaner on the tape deck, but my impression is that this isn't what typically would happen if the head needs cleaning, and I don't particular want to waste the time and money on a solution that I'm pretty sure isn't going to work, but I'm asking you all in case you know better than me (a real possibility). I just don't know if I should try that first, or if I should just go out and purchase a new car stereo that has either blue tooth, or an audio input plug so I can directly plug the phone in that way.
Also if I do go the way of replacing the stereo, is that generally a straightforward process? And would most replacement stereos be compatible with my vehicle, or do I need to be selective?
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I bought my 2014 Corolla new a little over 3 years ago. Yesterday, when I was leaving work to head home I went to start my car and I was just met with my starter making a loud buzzing noise. My lights in my car, car fob, and etune radio were all working properly, but the car was just not able to start! My coworker told me that he heard of a trick where if you knock on the starter with something while trying to start it, it might give it enough of a kick to get going. Whether or not it was coincidence, it did work.
I was able to drive home, about 15 minutes (still daylight, did not need car lights), with no trouble. When I got home I turned my car off and waited for a few seconds and tried to start again. It worked, but it sounded like it struggled. I did it one more time and it failed with that same noise again. I resolved that I would just go get a new battery in the morning.
In the morning, my car was able to start, albeit with some struggle again. I made it all the way to work, and over lunch I was able to start it again and drive it to AutoZone to have them test the battery starter alternator. They told me the battery was too depleted to test it, so I went across the street to Walmart and bought a new battery. After replacing it, the car started like a champ as expected, and I drove back to Autozone to have them test my alternator and starter. The starter came back good, but they said that there was a fault in the test with the alternator. I gave them my old battery and asked them to trickle charge and test it just to see if it happened to still be a good battery that was just losing charge, or if it really was just a dying battery.
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I have a 1993 E350 Econoline-based RV. The blower motor intermittently makes a horrible whirring/buzzing sound, usually if on position 3 or 4 (high). Doesn't stop until I turn the HVAC to Off. The blower motor vibrates quite a bit while making this noise (verified with my hand). The problem occurs even if the engine isn't running. This started a few years ago, and has simply gotten worse.
Since it runs OK at the lower speeds (until the problems start with the higher speeds), I think that means I can rule out something simple like debris? Also, when the engine is under load (climbing hills, etc.), the blower fan cuts out. Could that be a resistor problem, or something else?
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I've suddenly developed a loud buzzing noise from my air-con system. I checked the hmaservice website, but the images don't look anything like what I have behind my glove box. I have a right-hand drive vehicle.
hmaservice says to remove the outside-air/recirc cable, and the picture shows this coming in from the left, where the center console would be on a LHD car. Mine comes in from the right of course. That is where the mirror imaging ends!
The service pages say that the filter sits behind this cable, and there's some sort of "hook" to remove to open a flap for the filter. There's no hook or anything like the images on my car.
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I have noticed a humming noise above and beyond the normal fan noise when my t-reg is heating. I confirmed it is with the heating as when I turned the temp down, the noise quit at a lower temp and wasn't heating. The humming is distinct, almost like a small motor running or something and stems from driver's left.
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I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 liter extended cab. Recently have been having issues with the A/C system making lots of noise. I have identified the noise to two spots and I believe 2 actuators..
1) behind the glove box to the fresh air / recirc door there is a constant clicking / grinding noise. Toggling the recirc button causes the noise to oscillate and the recirc door can be moved by hand, so seems the actuator is basically gone...
2) When the mode is to face only there is a gurgling / clicking noise. When I move the mode selector a little bit off of face only, the noise seems to stop.
I have been looking and looking for a solid write up for the recirc door, can't even seem to find anything that is solid on the part number for that. Seems like I could probably get my hand up behind the glove box to take off that actuator and get the part number, read a couple of write ups that seem to suggest that it is incredibly tight and hard to get to, but it can be done.
Wondering if I just remove the top of the dash while going after the mode door actuator to make life easier? And do I need to get in there with the blend door actuator while I am doing the other two? No dual climate control, so does that leave me with only three actuators? I have the "automatic" a/c controls which are knobs on the dash, I believe these are automatic, not the slides that I believe are referred to as manual?
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A couple of times in the past few months I've been listening to music and a shrill sound has come through the system. It doesn't stop and I have to turn if off and back on to get it to go away. This has happened with both Sirius and my iPod. Yesterday the song was showing in the display but no sound was coming out. The volume didn't work. I had to stop/restart the car and it came on.
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Trying to load the CD ... I put in 6 discs I've tried them label up, label down, Compact Disc Digital Audio, and regular CD-RI hear the changer making noise when installed. The system won't play the CDs. It just says "No CD" At one point it put up a "Bluetooth connectivity problem" message. The rest of nav sys seems to work. 2005 Nav Sys Factory Changer. I've never used it and just got the car.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Prizm that I just had the front pipe replaced on. It was not accelerating well and making noise. New front pipe and it feels like a new car. The check engine light came on. i cleared the code, drove it for a day or so, and the light is back on. My exhaust mechanic says we don't really need to worry about the cat con hurting our engine unless we see a decrease in performance. Are there any mechanics out there who would say that is true. The car has 160,000 miles and we want to see it go another 100,000 or so, and not do anything to damage the engine.
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My passat is making a strange noise every time I accelerate and it seems to stop when i brake or let go of the gas.. It sounds likes it buzzing and its coming from the engine/dash??
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OK, I recently purchased a 2009 Passat 2.0 & love the car with the exception of one thing that's driving me crazy. When slowly accelerating & the RPM's are between 2-3000 rpm there's a loud buzzing noise from the engine. (Sounds like a kazoo) Again, it only happens when accelerating slowly & will happen at all speeds.
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I have a k04 turbo on the passat. (2000 b5) been having problems with it for longest time. however one night i was cruisn around and suddenly when car boosted the turbo went from the typical whistle to a whistle with a distinct buzzing noise (no to loud but very noticeable) almost like a bery dull sounding supercharger.
Ripped inlet hose off found that where the clamp is to hold on to turbo inlet was slit all the way through got new inlet hose hooked it up nothing happened. checked all turbo charge pipes and lines am going to double check again tomorrow. does this sound like a turbo issue or a leak issue. There is no loss in boost car was fixed and now runs great ... but this buzzing sound is annoying and kinda worrying me at the same time.
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I have a 99 VW Passat, it is making a loud buzzing noise as I accelerate to speeds above 20-25mph. The noise sounds like a baseball card in your bike spokes (or a room fan) does. The noise disappears when I push the clutch in. Here's the really weird part: when revving the engine as it's parked in neutral, there's no sound. What the heck is going on?
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