Passat (B6) :: Chime Goes Off Three Times At Seemingly Random Intervals Between 65 - 80 Mph
Apr 12, 2008
Bought a Passat 2.0 Komfort and we're on its' first road trip. Between 65 - 80 mph a chime goes off three times at seemingly random intervals whether I'm accelerating or decelerating in that zone. The speed warning is turned off and the winter tire function is off. There are no warning lights or messages. It's got my salesperson and a VW service dept baffled.
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At random intervals the Air Bag light on the dash is coming on and the more annoying chime sounds.
When I removed the center console to clean it up I noted there is an airbag module in there, and at one point in time there appears to have been a liquid spill nearby.
I saw a couple threads that were pretty old on this note, but was hoping for some fresh input on the possible problem and resolution to this.
2000 JGC Laredo.
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I have a 2003 Passat and it won't start at random times. The battery would loose all it's charge but has the battery tested and it was fine. Hooked a voltmeter to the battery and with engine off got 12.4v. Right when I start it it would drop to about 10.6-11.1v. While running it would show 14.1v and with all accessories on and running at about 2000rpm it would read 13.6v.
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So I just bought this 03 Santa FE a week or so ago and the Speedo like to drop at random intervals. I'll be cruising along at 60 down the highway and then BAM! nothing happens to the car as long as I don't have the cruise control on...if I do then it sputters and I just take over. Is this more than just a Speed sensor issue?
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So I started hearing a noise that sounded like a telegraph clicking in random intervals. Some days, no sound while others I thought I was an old Western Union Office. Now the sound has progressed into a sound that almost sounds like a small compressor. It sounds at each start up and then at different points during the drive. I have traced it back to this device. It sits to the left of the Air return behind the glovebox. I have two pics to illustrate. It is the black box with a small wiring harness plugges into the top. On the left side there is a cylindrical white piece that is part of this device. Everything in my car works so not sure what this thing does. It looks like a royal pain to get out as one of the bracket screws is down in the back so that screw will be tough to get to without dropping the blower housing. That may require pulling more things like the dash when they replaced the evaprator.
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It could just be in my head, but I swear that my headlights got a little brighter when I hit the accelerator. The car just came out of the shop on Friday, after the alternator and battery were replaced. I don't recall it doing this before then. Is this... normal for a car that's just had the alternator replaced?
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I have a 1999 toyota tacoma 70,000/mi. While idling, at random intervals, truck surges forward. Have to stay on the brake. Cannot drive in winter. Took to Toyota dealer and other mechanics... described problem and that A/C seems to be on all the time. No one has been able to fix. My brother disconnected the A/C and surging has stopped, but I need a better fix that will allow my using AC.
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My T-Mobile MyTouch with Android 1.6 OS paired fine as a phone and mp3 player. The mp3 player is less than perfect however.
1) When playing a track, the sound will stop for 1/2 a second at seemingly random intervals. It seems that it's more like the stream is being paused than the audio is just dropping out. I turned off all the auto-update features in the phone in case it was because the phone was checking for email or something. It still happens.
2) When I take a call, the music stops, the call happens, and when I hang up the music plays out of the phone. I can re-connect the Bluetooth audio manually on the Nav screen Audio option and it's back to the car again.
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I have a 1991 Chevy Lumina and I believe this wire is the root of my problems. I
wasn't the one who unplugged it but it seems it was unplugged as an easy way to get around a problem. When unplugged the car runs but the performance is off, It doesn't feel like it has the same power as it does when it's plugged in and it also sounds different when in idle. When the wire is plugged in the car stalls while driving at random intervals between 1 and 10 minutes and needs to be jumped to start it back up. I will attach pictures of the wire and its location within the surrounding area.
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2005, 2.7l. FWD automatic, with 180,000+ miles.
A week ago it started making a random ticking noise I've never heard before. Today was the first chance I got to try and find it and I'm stumped on what could cause this.
The sound is a static or low voltage electrical discharge coming off the harmonic balancer. I can actually see the blue spark occurring at random intervals and locations on the balancer as the car is running.
Do i need to be looking for a bad engine ground? I'm having no other electrical problems. The car runs like a champ other than a minor oil and power steering fluid leak.
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2004 f350 w 125000 miles.
I had diagnostic done at Autozone and no problems from check or OBD. The battery light has been coming on for a few minutes then going off at random intervals. Today I was towing trailer and quads, around 3500 lbs, to go riding and it was on most of the time running on interstate and highways.
Seems like the serpentine belt doesn't have as much tension as I would expect. Is there an easy way to change the serpentine? That looks to be a real pita.
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Seatbelt is on and no nav on my 07 GS. No dash light alerts. It happened 3 separate times today on the way to work.
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The chime goes 6 times on engine start up. It is repeated every 30 seconds 10 times, i.e. the last series start at 4 1/2 min., a total of 60 clanks. After this it does not sound again if you don't turn the engine off. The seat belt can be removed, the door may be opened - no chime. But if you stop and restart the engine, it starts the process all over again.
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2012 Lariat 5.0, 57K miles. Zero mods/totally stock. I've noticed this a few times, so I'm not sure of whats causing this ...
I unlock the door, open door, and hear a chime/beep - I think its a 'single' chime/beep. Wondering what is causing this .......... I might have had a power cord plugged into the 12V accessory plug, but nothing was attached to the cord.
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My 2000 F 250 Super Duty 7.3L Diesel chimes 5 times, 5 times in a row when the engine is turned on and then every 30 minutes thereafter. What is causing this? It sounds like the seat belt alarm but they are all connected. Ehat is causing the continual chiming?
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Ok my dome light flashes and I get a chime first three times then one and it repeats. No other error messages or codes. What causes this?
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I have a problem with my wife's 2010 Corolla where the AC only comes on at random times. The blower blows constantly, but only blows cold air every once in awhile. When it blows the cold air, it feels perfect. We had it checked at three different places and they still haven't found out what's wrong.
The first place refilled the coolant and got it working, but it only lasted a day. When we took it back they said it worked fine for them, but took it home and again it crapped out the next day. Took it back to them and they couldn't figure it out.
Second place said it needed a new or refurbished compressor, but that didn't make sense to me since when it's working, it works great. Also pressure was normal on hi and lo.
Third place took a look at it today and said they got it to work briefly by turning on the heat??? Doesn't make sense. They're closed on weekends so we'll take it back to them on Monday and they'll continue to troubleshoot.
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS with a supercharged 3.8 liter engine and 161,000 miles. I bought the car off of my uncle and he said he would have to change plug wires every month to month and a half because it would start missing so bad. When I first drove the car it would quit on me at red lights and in parking lots, it only seemed to do it at low idle speeds. I live on a hill with a blacktop road and I had to give it a lot of gas just to pull the hill it was missing so bad. The plug wire had a lifetime warranty on them so I replaced them and it stopped quitting on me but I still had a bad miss at random but not as bad it would just be like hard jerks. I added sea foam fuel injection cleaner and had the fuel filter replaced. The mechanic checked the spark plugs and he said they were like new AC Delco. I also cleaned the MAF Sensor (the mechanic told me to and how) because the engine did not run steady at idle and it seemed to work that, but not the miss. Could my problem be the plug wires? They are carquest brand 7mm wires.
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I have a 01 wolfsburg jetta with aw engine code .. I have replaced and gaped spark plugs all 4 coils , DV. As well as fuel filter . Sometimes it runs fine . It misfire at random times most often at WOT. ..and I've noticed almost always when fuel level is low.. installed a boost gauge .. after disconnecting battery to reset ecu it boosts 10psi and runs strong .. however 1 or 2 WOT and it will misfire and then I won't boost over 4-5 PSI .. worst of all I get no CEL not even blinking .. I have also located a leak in the brake booster line . Does this affect it at all? ..
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I have read all the answers about the alarm going off at random times, mine just started tonight and dealership is closed. Is there anything that I can do to keep it from going off and waking the neighborhood?
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I recently brought my 2000 chrysler sebring in because the alarm was going off at random times (3:00am). Also when I was driving the interior lights would turn on and off and the dash readout would say "DOOR" as if I had opened the door, there was a relay clicking sound under the dash and the car would also try to relock the doors. This was an intermittent problem, occasionally the car would be fine for a while then the show would begin. I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed the problem to be the BCM or Body Control Module.
My conclusion is that this whole problem was caused by a shorting door switch and that either they misdiagnosed the problem and when the new BCM did not fix the problem they found the real problem in the door switch or they just scammed me from the start. I think the "part exchange program" is a scam. Why don't I get the part back or why don't I get two prices, one if I exchange the part and one if I don't.
Could a faulty driver door switch damage a BCM? (I never heard of this before. In fact another dealer told me all he needed was the VIN to see if the part was in stock).
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