Driving on the highway today and when I started to accelerate fast I noticed my check engine light blinking yellow and also noticed loosing boost I think I can only reach maybe 10-12 psi, I am stage 1 revo and also it was 95 degrees out, what it could be, thinking misfiring? so would that mean new coil pack and spark plugs?
View 15 RepliesDrove fairly fast (160km/hr or 100 miles/hr) then took an exit down a ramp and had to stop at a red light. Noticed all of a sudden that the engine was running bit rougher and then noticed the yellow engine light blinking. I know to turn off the engine immediately when this occurs but then all of a sudden engine light turned off and car was running smooth again.
Car has been reliable for 7 years - proper maintained, synthetic oil, 171000km, timing belt changed, burns very little oil, good torque. Should I have it checked by the dealer (fantastic fair vw dealer)?
I have a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE with 155K miles. I did a tune-up eight months ago. With the tune up I had to replace the fuel pump because it was defective. Later, I found that there were misfires occurring since I was getting slow acceleration. I had the spark plugs on the guilty cylinders replaced again and the spark plug wires.
Periodically, I have had to return to the shop to have the vehicle checked. I sometimes get a blinking check engine light while trying to accelerate, which now occurs only while it is raining or I am exiting the car wash. The shop is at a loss as to what it is (spark plugs and wires are fine, no lose connections noticed). I am wondering if I should take it to someone else. Of course, taking it somewhere else will cost me $100 to check on someone's else work.
The shop replaced the ignition coil. Distributor cap is fine. They keep saying that the engine is running fine while in the shop and do not get any codes. I had them drive it while it was raining and they discovered that cylinder 4 is misfiring. They worked on the cylinder. The vehicle runs well, until it rains or I wash it.
My questions to the group, "If everything is OK, how come it is misfiring? What are they missing? What is the connection to the moisture?"
So I am on my way to the store this morning and the check engine light starts blinking. After I get out of the store I try to start the car so I can drive the mile back home and then have it towed to the dealer. The car is only able to drive at like 1-3mph. I changed the cam follower 6k ago and the car only has 43k.
I'm thinking this seems like a fuel delivery/cam follower type of issue. At the moment my plan is to have AAA tow the car home so I can see if its a follower issue. If it is I think I'm going to have to take off my downpipe and put the stock one back on. When I put the car in neutral and step on the throttle I get no revs at all.
My check engine lights been on forever, like every VW, but now it's blinking fast, and the car isn't running right. It's messed up AGAIN, it's running really bad, like misfiring and not making power. It's shaky feeling in the throttle and power, almost like it's going to stall but it doesn't. What the problem is?
View 5 Replies'99 Passat GLS - 79,000 miles - no mods ... Solid Check Engine Light was on for about 2 weeks...last time it was on, it was a fuel cap issue so I took my time with it. Well, all of the sudden on 4/14/03, on my way to work, (less than 5 minutes after starting the car) the car starts to ride hard (like going over grated pavement)...check engine light starts to blink! I pulled over. Eventually the light went back to solid.
Tonight (on 4th ignition sequence since picking up the car this AM) - the solid Check Engine Light came on again.
I had a friend who went through this with a 2000 Passat GLS - different dealer claimed it was the MAF, then the O2 sensors, then....she eventually took it to carmax to unload it.
2002 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 98K miles.
Was driving home tonight and nearly didn't make it. A few miles down the road I hit the gas hard going up a hill but the Passat kind of lunged a little and lost a lot of power and the engine emblem starting blinking. Coasted down a hill and it stopped and all was well again. From here on I am going careful up hills and not accelerating too fast.
I drive about 30 miles, 10 miles to go and I have to pull a tall hill. Going up this hill the light starts blinking again and I lose most of my power, engine feels like its not hitting on all cylinders and the turbo must be out. Barely make it home going about 40 mph. My check engine light has been on for quite some time, in fact I have had reset about 6-8 times with replacing sensors, air mass meters, etc. Could this be the timing belt?
so there is no visible signs of a boost leak and my boost gauge shows normal vacuum at idle indicating its not a vacuum leak, yet in the higher rpms im loosing boost.
View 22 RepliesFriday, May 13 I brought my car to the shop because the Check Engine light came on and the engine started loosing power. $540 later they had replaced both O2 sensors. A day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Monday and they replaced one of the sensors that was defective according to them. One day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Wednesday and they replaced the sensor again, telling me the brand was not compatible with my car. One day later night the light came back on. Brought the car back in Friday May 20 in the morning and they have my car since. They can't figure out whats wrong. A week before all that happed I had an oil leak and they replaced the oil filter and a seal. Could that be it?
View 2 RepliesOne morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
2006 Prius with 164,000 miles.
First in the morning, starts fine, 500 feet later I'm turning out of neighborhood and I get lit up with:
Red triangle master light
Yellow brake warning (went away after I did signal check)
Check engine
Maint required light
The maintenance light is on because I'm 5,000 miles out of an oil change. I checked the stick, it did appear low, so I added a half quart of mobil 1 5w-30.
The inverter pump was changed due to recall in 2012, and I do still see turbulences in the fluid.
I have 3 pips of gasoline in the tank.
The 12V is a newly replaced yellowtop from elearnaid. Replaced about 1 year ago.
2004 Golf, manual transmission. The yellow check engine light comes on when it's driven on the highway for more than 10 miles or so (60-70 mph).
The light goes off on it's own after about 36 hours of suburb driving - 1-2 miles at a time on suburb roads, lots of lights and not going over 40 mph.
1) Why the light is coming on? No other signs of trouble occur - oil looks good, temp stays fine, no smells, etc.
2) Why the light goes off after 4-6 miles/36hours?
Solid yellow engine light. Sounds and drives fine. Is it always emissions or can it be something bad? I was going to leave sunday for a 2 month trip pulling the RV. Now stuck waiting for wednesday for dealership.
View 8 RepliesPCS blinking yellow light? I know what it is for but just got the car (2011 ISF) on Saturday and no PCS light. Drove it for about 10 minutes the first day I got it and then couldn't drive it again until today. Today = PCS light.
I was investigating wiring yesterday in the sunroof area for possibly hooking up a radar detector, which I didn't do yet. I replaced the car battery the day before. Drove it around today for really the first time and the PCS light remains.
I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
View 19 RepliesIt's a 2010 vw jetta. Check engine light is blinking and the epc light is on the car is not paid off yet have no.
View 19 RepliesMy Girlfriend just got a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and everything was running great on it the first month she had it BUT the check engine light was on.. After about a month she called me up while driving and said that the check engine light was blinking and the car would hardly move. So I got to the car and looked at it and I noticed the oil filter was a little loose so I tightened it good this time and added a little bit of oil. It actually moved but it would hesitate. So we had it towed to a shop and they read the codes from the check engine light and told us it was leaking oil from the motor some where (not specific) and it also needed a new O2 sensor.
So I replaced the catalytic converter underneath the car and also a new sensor along with a new set of spark plugs. It ran alot better and I left it at that. Now about a week later she was coming home and noticed that when she turned left or right that the battery light and brake light on the dash came on. She drove it home and when she turned in the driveway the car went dead. It started right back up and we got it to the house and left it over night. I went out this morning and again it started right up. but when I lifted the hood I noticed the belts on the pulleys were all spinning very slowly. I'm not sure if it could be a timing chain or if it just needs new pulleys.
When I was driving to school this morning my check engine light went on and I noticed that my car is running very rough (suddenly). I also noticed that the check engine light would blink when accelerating at a stop light then go solid again when driving. I drive long distances between school and work and I think I won't be making it to work later due to this issue. This is a Saturn Ion II 2005 and gets regular maintenance on time.
View 15 RepliesI'm running a catless dp with the "low boost" Revo stage 2 (For 95-98 octane fuel)..
I've noticed when I put in rubbish fuel, the car runs fine and can hear the turbo spooling and pssting..
When I put in Shell VPower Nitro+ (Standard UK good stuff), the check engine light comes on and performance drops. I tried REVO but they stonewalled me. Thinking of trying the higher boost map..
Check engine light is on says low turbo boost but gauge says it has a lot of boost. Only happened after I put catalytic back on for smog test. Before that no problem.
View 10 RepliesThis morning on my drive to work my car would choke whenever I hit 3000 rpm right when the car is sucking the most air from my intake, and especially on 3rd gear and up. After being on the road for quite some time my check engine light came on blinking but went away right after I stop pushing the car to 3000 rpm to switch gears.
The car is on APR Stage 1 with AEM Filter + Nuespeed Intake + BSH Inlet Pipe.
Recently added was a VW Diverter Valve D Version due to an oil leaking from my Old Diverter Valvue G version.