Passat (B6) :: Check Engine Light - Codes P0100 And P0171
Aug 6, 2013
Check engine light came on yesterday evening. Advance read the codes as P0100 and P0171. The guy said something that it may be related to the mass air flow sensor. The car seems to run fine.
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Coming home from spring break towing the TT, the Check Engine light illuminates. Seems to be sputtering at idle, but otherwise OK, so we continued home.
Scanner lists the P0171 and P0174 codes. Ok, where to begin? based on internet info, started by cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body. When I pulled apart the intake, noticed that the grommet which feeds the MAF in the air intake had become separated letting air bypass the MAF. Hence the reason for the codes.
If you get these codes, check the grommet for the wires feeding the MAF in the air intake to make sure it hasn't become separated from the intake. No more codes.
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My wifes 2007 Santa Fe Limited 3.3 has had a check engine light going on a year now. Car has about 122k on it now. Scanned codes about 6 months ago and had a fuel system lean code. Did some reading and ended up replacing the purge valve. The CEL stayed off til the end of the drive cycle and came right back. I have noticed when you fill the car up there is a real strong smell of gas but the car always starts right up. It now has a P0171 Fuel system too lean (b1) and P2187 Fuel system too lean at idle. Where to start. Don't have much background with hyundai. Also the ESC off light comes on randomly and goes off. Doesn't happen real frequently though.
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I have a 99 f150 with the 4.2l v6 with a 5 speed 173000 miles. I picked it up not to long ago. When I first got it it had both the P0171 & P0174 lean on bank 1&2 it was also siting for a while. I replaced the fuel filter which was filled with black fuel, also changed the PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor, and changed the oil. I cleared the code, drove it for a little bit and the light came back on after 20 miles.
I then proceeded to replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets. Upon doing that i noticed that i was missing one of the linkages for the IMRC. I went to the junkyard and pulled off another linkage rod off the same motor. ordered new plastic clips, put the IMRC on cleaned everything up and began putting it back together. I also cleaned the Injectors while i had them out as well and put in new spark plugs and wires.
Put everything back together. code was cleared since the battery was disconnected. drove it and then the engine light came back on again. this time it was only the p0174. so i then both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors on bank 2, reset the code and it came back on again. I'm lost.
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My 1999 F350 SD V10 that would crank but not start. I ended up checking numerous things because before it decided to truly stop running, it would run rough for a time and then be fine. The check Engine Light came on and I got the codes P0171 & P0174. Well, I bought MAF Cleaner and took the air cleaner housing off, disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned the sensor and replaced the air cleaner. I continued to get those same error codes, but before I could go any further, the truck totally died. It sat for nearly 2 months with the bed in the air as I had decided to lift the bed to check the fuel pump vs. drop the tank.
Fast forward a bit and I have since replaced the fuel pump and put $40 of Premium Gas along with Royal Purple Fuel Treatment in the tank because I figured things got stirred up and could use a bit of cleaning. I do not drive much, and during the first few trips, it ran perfectly. Then today, it started again with the rough running and trying to die if I let it idle. If I pushed on the gas, it would completely smooth out. If this were a carbureted engine, I would think the low idle was set too low, but since it is not, I am guessing it is one or more of the sensor/s that is/are causing the issue.
I am disabled and can’t play parts swap until I hit on the right part, so I was hoping that I might get some guidance here to narrow things down to the most probably causes so that I won’t go broke changing things until I hit the “right one”. The truck has 153,000 miles on it and I had bought it from a retired couple who used it to pull their 5th wheel travel trailer, so it had mostly highway miles on it. It was immaculate when I bought it and ran perfectly, needing only normal maintenance (oil changes, etc.) over the past 12 years that I have owned it. In those 12 years, I have put about 60,000 miles on it.
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Well my girls 2006 passat is showing the check engine light. she took it to autozone and the code was, P0171. what does the code mean and what do i need to replace?
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I have had 06 passat with a 2.0 turbo. It been a great car. check engine light has come on with a few codes.
P0171 lean air fuel mixture. P2015, p2008, p0507, p2015, p2008.
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We have a 2003 Passat 1.8t. Had the Check engine Light come on. Went down to AutoZone and hookeded up the OBDII reader. Came up with P0171, Fuel System for Bank 1 was too lean. Probable causes:
1. Fuel Pressure of MAF (If Bank 1 & Bank 2 set codes together)
2. O2 Sensor
3. Ignition Misfire
4. Fuel Injector Problem
Car has 60K - has always run well. Wife says she thinks it's running a bit sluggish. I rarely drive the car, but I think she's right. Car is not missing or running rough.
I cleared the code & started the engine; Check Engine Light is off; then looked at the codes and I find a P0171 (Pending). She tells me that the light has been on before & then gone away. So I guess it clears itself, but eventually comes back.
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I have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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Ok so we have yet again the engine light on...we did a test and we have the codes P2004 and P0642. What can it be the problem this time??? what can cause this codes and is it expensive to fix? We just fix the care a couple of weeks ago( codes P0507 and P0171) and we are sooo tired of having problems.
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I just bought a 2000 VW passat with 63k. I had it for a week and check engine light came on. 30 v engine ....
p0431 /16815 bank 1 below threshold??
p0421/16805 bank 2 below threshold??
Cat? or 02 sensors???
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The check engine light on my 1999 1.8T Passat is on. It started with a little miss right after startup. Then in neutral, after revving the engine to say 1,500 rpm and letting off the gas, it would nearly stall. I plugged in an OBDII analyzer and came up with codes P0102 MAF or VAF circuit low input and P0304, Cylinder #2 misfire. I replaced the spark plugs, as they were old anyway. Still the same symptoms. Then I replaced the mass air flow sensor.
The check engine light still went on after it was cleared, except this time it was P0302, Cylinder #2 misfire, P0102, P1613, Auxiliary inputs aux. outputs control, and P1426 Mfg. Control/auxiliary emission controls. Soon after, the car started running fine on it's own and I again cleared the codes.
Then a day later, the check engine light is on. This time, it is only the P1426 - Manufacturer control auxiliary emission controls. The Bentley manual calls it Tank Vent. Valve Open, which doesn't mean anything to me and the Bentley manual is of no luck. (The error code almost implies that it is the famous loose gas cap, but I have checked that - unless the gasket is bad). FYI: I have 99K miles on the car.
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I was just driving and the engine check light appeared. The screen says Emission workshop. its a 2001 B5 passat V6 Manual. I used a code reader and it read P1120 and P0154. Are these codes serious? Can I still drive around? What should I do?
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This morning I started my car and it was idling a little rough. The the Check Engine light began flashing - I immediately turned off the car and consulted this forum and my father the mechanic. After talking with my Dad and telling him that the car had sat for a week, he thought the issue was probably NOT the catalytic converter and thought it was probably related to the car sitting and possibly getting moisture in the gas. I started the car again (the roughness at idle seemed to have gone away) but the check engine light/malfunction indicator light (MIL) did not flash, it did come back on after a few seconds, but as a solid light . And as we've all read, it's OK to drive with a solid MIL.
I took the car over to Autozone and had the codes checked - P0300 (multiple cylinder miss fire) and P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire). I asked them to clear the codes. I has just put in new NGK spark plugs last month, so I didn't think it would be the plugs. I looked at a new coil pack for one of the cylinders. I decided to see if clearing the codes alone would work and drove home. No issues so far, no MIL, no rough idle, no hesitation (fingers crossed).
When I called the stearleship - they recommended I have the car towed, but would not speculate as to what the flashing MIL could be (catalytic converter or bad coil pack(s))...
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2001 F150 5.4L Triton Motor. Everything seemed o.k. then got the Engine Service Light. Checked with reader and above codes only appeared. Read numerous articles/videos and pulled the PCV hose/boot assembly and replaced the whole thing with oem part. Visually checked for disconnected tubing = none found. After this and with the new hose assembly in place I performed a reset. With the scanner still connected restarted engine and read values: ST FTRM1&2 = -.08~+2.3, both oxygen sensor voltages are varying and the LT FTRM1&2 hang around +26 and +28.
From what I understand the ST seems o.k. but the long term is WAY OUT OF WHACK. Started it up again and took carb cleaner spray and covered all the connections I could see = no change in engine rpm. No cracks in the air cleaner body. Big plug to the MAF was inserted and plugging the hole. I am thinking of making a smoke "machine" and trying that or removing the hoses from the throttle body and plugging the holes in the throttle body and see if that clears them up. IF it does then connect one by one and keep checking the values. Lot more work but I am at a loss.
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I have a 1999 Ford V-10 Triton 6.8L engine with 100,000 miles in my Motorhome. Service engine soon light has been a problem for the past couple months. I have replaced the O2 sensor on the passenger side and the EGR valve. After that I drove for about 300+ miles continuously and stopped to get gas. Light stayed off and I thought I had it fixed but after starting up again the light came back on. The codes are P0171 and 0174.
I had the air filter replaced before changing the sensor and valve and mechanic left the Mass air flow sensor out of the socket I had a sluggish engine and at the time I thought I sucked water into the filter, I was driving in a pouring rain, this sensor plugs into the air intake above the filter correct?) I plugged that back in. What is my next move because I reset the service engine soon light and it runs great then the light comes back on after I shutdown and restart.
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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First owner, 192000 miles. Check engine light came on during last winter, I put fuel injector cleaner with gas and it went away for a while. It came back on, if i reset, I can drive for about 50 miles before it comes back on line. Also, may be two or three times a week, when moving after a stop, the vehicle stalls, i have to take the feet of the gas pedal and give gas again.
I called up the dealer asking for fuel filter and fuel injector parts prices. Fuel filter is in the gas tank and not meant to be replaced. The fuel injector I was told 4 x $155 each. For diagnostics they need $100
See attached, I was able to clean sensor 1. I could not unscrew sensor 2, the screw is rusted, plus there is no room to get a longer screw driver and turn.
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I have a 2014 camry SE 2.5 with 66.000 miles on it and been having issues since the warranty expired..... What it could be? Cleaned the maf sensor and still no luck and every time i fill the gas tank it won't start takes a while.
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2000... I have a code P0171 bank 1 too lean. My question is does this exclude anything that will effect both banks? If it was MAF sensor or fuel filter would it set code and say banks 1 and 2 running too lean? In which MAF sensor ohms out correctly. I cannot view fuel trim files. I have looked for a vacuum leak with no luck. I got some cigars to try to smoke it to see if there is any vacuum leaks. Trying to narrowing what i need to checks.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS/LT 4.2 liter 2wd. I have been trying to get it smoged, but can't clear the code. P0171 - Lean Bank 1.
I've been having a parts throwing contest with it, but it has been winning and my wallet is losing.
I have changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed both O2 sensors, changed the secondary air valve and relay. I've done the carb cleaner spray test around the intake and vacuum lines, with no spikes in RPM.
Most recent try was a couple bottles of Techron concentrate with premium chevron gas.(still waiting to see if the code hits again)
Next steps are checking the intake bolts(to see if they are torqued) and intake gaskets, check for exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, and checking the MAP sensor.
Freeze frame data from the most recent hit on the code is below.
***Fuel system 1 - CL***Fuel system 2 - NA***Calc Load(%) - 30.2***ECT(deg c) - 48***STFT B1(%) - 3.9***LTFT B1(%) - 22.7***MAP(kPa) - 33***Eng RPM - 809***Veh speed(km/h) - 0***Spark Adv (deg) - 10.5***IAT(deg c) - 20***MAF (G/s) - 5.82***TPS(%) - 15.3***Air status - NA.
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