Passat (B6) :: Car Started Choking When Stationary
Nov 6, 2007
Temperatures just went significantly down. Tonight it was around 45 degrees when I started my car. 1 mile down the road, refuel light went on and it said the Range was 40 miles. I was at a traffic light when suddenly the car started choking, cabin lights started dimming with the choking. I stepped on gas so that it won't die on me and raise the car's temperature; that kept the car running.
Re-fueled the car at the next gas station 1 mile down the road. Thought the choking would be gone but no, it still choked when stationary. Right then the check engine light went on too confirming that something has really gone wrong.
Drove the car for about 12 miles and then dropped the car off at the dealership - should find out what went wrong tomorrow morning. The check tire-pressure warning has been on for a week too - but that goes on every year when the temperature drops.
Car has 13500 miles and is taken very good care of - VW recommended services done at 5000 and 10000.
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Ok my issue is probably a simple and possible easy fix but I need to know what to do. Pretty much you're accelerating more aggressively and the turbo kicks in in between 2000-3100 rpms the car gets the jitters like the turbo isn't getting enough air or choking or something like that, ive been told that it might be a vacuum hose but idk where the turbo is located to begin with let alone where the vacuum hose is.
Also I have '02 passat 1.8T manual
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Traded in my 2006 mustang gt for a 2006 2.0T passat last week. As I was driving the car to work today the check engine light started blinking and the car started to vibrate as if it were about to shut off. The light eventually stayed on, I took it the the dealer and there not sure what the problem is, they say they've never seen this before.
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I thought it was just my imagination but I have since noticed a slight vibration in the car while I am stopped at a stoplights. This problem is intermittent, and not caused by sitting on a bridge or other roadway that can move. I can sit at a stoplight and turn off the Climate Control, it still vibrates. The RPMs are constant, nothing seems to be wrong other than the vibrations. The radio will be off (I turn off the techno). It looks like Jurassic Park when there is a water bottle in my cupholder. The vibration is steady in both intensity and frequency, and will not go away on its own once I notice it while stopped. The problem is pretty intermittent and I have been unable to reproduce it for a service tech.
V8 w/ 8k miles.
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When the car is in neutral or in gear at a standstill there's a noise right around 1000rpm that sounds like a serious rattle or knocking. It sounds as if the car is puttering out. So essentially, I give it gas to around 2000 and then take my foot off and on its way back to idle it will putter at 1000rpm.
If the clutch is fully depressed or fully disengaged the noise is no different. I haven't noticed the noise in any other situation other than when the car is stationary but it's still a very disconcerting noise and likely just being drowned out by other noises when moving.
Does this sound like something engine related or could it be DMF chatter? Could I possibly pick up on an issue by running tests or logging with VAGCOM?
Some background on the car:
-Modified with APR Turboback and Stage 1/2 file 1.3 (the noise is present with and without tune file)
-I run 93 only
-Most miles are highway miles, currently sitting at 23k miles
-I don't notice any issues with shifting, albeit some slipping when tuned in 6th gear (no slipping when using stock file)
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SO this morning I let the car idle for aprox, 5 to 10 min. its was a bit cold so figure I warm it up a bit. As soon as I pulled from the driveway a msg came up on the cluster. I only got a glimpse but it said ECS is stationary and about engine idling. I was told ECS stands for Emission Control System. If thats true or not Idk. I did look on my owners manual and found nothing on it. I checked the car status and everything seems to be ok. Car also drives normal.
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My 1996 Toyota Corolla has started sputtering (choking?) out when I accelerate quickly (like getting on the highway) or when I get up to about 70 mph. Is this a symptom of a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump? If so, is there a way to tell which it is before taking it to the mechanic? Or could it be something else?
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So, my 94 Volvo 940 has about 315k miles on it and everything works great except during the intense heat of the summer. It drives fine for about an hour or two, but anything north of two hours with temps in the high 80s will cause the car to eventually stall - usually the engine just sounds like it's misfiring for a few seconds, then I lay on the gas to find that there's no acceleration and pull over where it will eventually shut down. I let it cool down for about 15 minutes, then it will start fine and drive for a little while before stalling again. It seems that the longer I let it cool down, the more time I get out of it.
I've tried replacing the fuel relay and noise suppression relay. I always just guessed it was the noise suppression relay because it is located right next to the engine, and I just thought the soldering would melt when it gets too hot, then come back together after cooling. But, maybe this is totally off. I also replaced the mass air flow sensor before, but it had slightly different symptoms, and those have not come back. My problem now only happens on longer drives in the summer.
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I got a Mk7 in October and my Mk4 has unfortunately been parked since. I started it and let it idle to warm once a week or so when I went on Vacation for 10 days. Before going on vacation I moved the car and after warming up everything seemed to be normal. Unfortunately I neglected it once I got back and haven't started it since the beginning of December. I'm selling it here soon and so went out to spruce her up tonight and upon trying to start the battery was dead so a buddy came over and jumped it.
It started right up but immediately was idling funny which I assumed was because of the cold (it's 25 degrees F tonight and has gotten in the negatives in the past few weeks due to snow storms). I shut it down and checked the fluids which were all pretty low especially the oil due to a small leak. So I topped off the all the fluids and started it again and let it idle to full warm.
I decided to take it for a drive around the block and it was still driving pretty rough, no knocking or anything but the engine was "sputtering" and the CEL was on and flashed when I gave it gas. I'm running stock boost so my gauge usually reads around 12psi but is now only going up to 3-5 psi and the vacuum is only at -15 which i think used to idle at -20. I drove it to the gas station and filled it up from a little less than a half tank but it's still running the same and there's a slight burning smell from the exhaust.
I was worried it was my turbo but it was perfectly fine a month ago. I was thinking of throwing some Seafoam or Heat.
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2013 Prius v (wagon) Level 3: When I pull into a rest stop (“Ready” on, in “Park”) for a few hours of snooze, and the traction battery is “full” (~6 bars), it will run the AC for 60-90 minutes before the ICE starts up (at 2 bars) to recharge the battery. It recharges to 3 bars (in ~3 min) and then shuts off.
After that the ICE cycles on every 15-20 min (which is annoying) and each time it runs just long enough to charge from 2 bars to 3 bars. All of that on/off is hard to sleep through. I bought this car because it can run the AC off the battery, which it will automatically charge when low. It’s brilliant – up to a point.
Question: How do I tell the ICE to charge the traction battery from 2 bars all the way up to 6 bars again (should take ~ 15 min or so) while parked, for another whole hour+ of quiet slumber?
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My wife has said that yesterday morning (and also a couple of weeks ago), she started the car and a constant whine came from the engine area. It went a few minutes later while she was driving.
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I have a 1999 (new body style) VW Jetta GLS. 4cyl, 2L engine. It has been chocking intermittently. there is no set pattern of when it chokes. it chokes at speeds above and below 60mph. it usually chokes at constant speed; non acceleration...BUT it has choked while accelerating from stop. the heater is sometimes on and sometimes off...my point is there is no set pattern. THE THING IS....every time it chokes, there is a clicking at the dashboard. just one click per choke/jerking. the dash lights and the headlights do NOT dim or flash at all. THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT illuminated in the dash or any other warning light. the choking has not caused the car to stall or shut off....although there have been times when it almost did.the car has been tuned up...plugs, wires, fuel filter...timing belt and serpentine relatively new.
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1994 Subaru Legacy, 2.2 L 4-cylinder, front wheel drive, automatic transmission... Trouble started, when I let the gas tank get very low, drove the car 3 less than one mile to the gas station from a cold start and filled the tank to full. As I pulled out of the station onto the road the car died as I hit the gas. When I tried to start it again it died right away. Got the car into a safe spot and couldn't get it to start until I primed the fuel pump about a dozen times.
Managed to get the car home. After this, the car drove around town for a few days without any issues. Thinking back it may have been a little hesitant on the gas, but didn't start stalling again for a few days. This time it would stall while idling as well as when accelerating in drive. The next serious episode occurred on the highway. The engine was choking as I drove over 60mph.
I pulled off into a rest area and the car died as I parked. Rather than try to start it again I just called a tow truck and called it a day. Now, even after the replaced parts, it will start just fine and idle ok until I hit the gas pedal then it will idle a much lower rpm and sputter. If I shift into drive and hit the gas it dies immediately. If I let it idle long enough it usually dies eventually.
Replaced the fuel filter. No change. Replaced the fuel pump. No change. Replaced the ignition coil. No change. Spark plugs and cables replaced less than a year ago. I have driven this car from Eugene, Oregon to Denver, Colorado and back about three times in the last 6 months, so the long distances could be a factor. Other than that I drive it occasionally (not every day) for short distances in town.
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I have a 1999 Ford F-150 with 149,000 miles on it and when the engine gets warm it seems to flood its self out. I was told to change fuel filter, no change, I was told maybe the catalytic converters maybe plugged but then was told that wasn't the case either. Another mechanic mentioned some sort of ignition relay or computer issue? I do not have any lights on of any sort. I do want to mention before it started acting up the auto door locks would jump up and down erratically and my key phoebe will not work now.
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This one has me stumped, and I can't find a rational explanation on the net but it appears to be a known problem. I have a friend with an '06 Nissan Pathfinder that has climate control with dual zones (front and rear) that fails to blow hot (in front) when the vehicle is stationary and the rear heater is on. I used to wrench for a living so I've eliminated the obvious. The front blows hot air when the vehicle is in motion and also when stationary and the rear climate controls are off. So clearly it would seem to me that the issue probably lies in the switching of ventilation ducts from hot to cold. I'm not familiar enough with the system to proffer a solution though. The way I see it it's probably a sensor at best, an issue with the climate control unit itself at worst, or some sort of bizarre mechanical malfunction involving the vents closing when they should be passing air from across the heater core to the entire interior.
I haven't spent much time diagnosing the issue mainly because I don't do it for a living anymore. Hot air comes out of the front when the car is warm, stationary, and the rear blower motor is off. My friend who isn't very technical and speaks English as a second language tells me that when the rear heat is on it blows cold in the front while the vehicle is stationary (in Park or perhaps just when stopped for an extended period i.e. at a traffic light).
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This morning on my drive to work my car would choke whenever I hit 3000 rpm right when the car is sucking the most air from my intake, and especially on 3rd gear and up. After being on the road for quite some time my check engine light came on blinking but went away right after I stop pushing the car to 3000 rpm to switch gears.
The car is on APR Stage 1 with AEM Filter + Nuespeed Intake + BSH Inlet Pipe.
Recently added was a VW Diverter Valve D Version due to an oil leaking from my Old Diverter Valvue G version.
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Recently purchased a 2005 Jetta GLI with 31,xxx miles on it. It is my second 1.8T. My first was very reliable, with never any issues even after the 100k mile mark and is the reason I didn't hesitate to buy another one. That, and the Recaro Edition GLI has always been one of my favorite cars.
So I've had it for about a month now and I've noticed on occasion a problem with cold starting. One weekend it sat for almost two days because we used our other car, and then again this morning it was particularly chilly here in Pittsburgh, about 35degrees F and it took me two starts to get it going.
I always turn the key to 'on' for a few seconds and let the fuel pressurize and all the indicators light up. It doesn't appear to be the battery as it turns over strong, though I have not yet confirmed this is a Voltage reading. Once it kicks over, it seems to be choking or sputtering, unable to get up to idle. The second time, it does it again but gets past it and all is well...
I'm checking records now to see if the 30k mile service was completed. perhaps a tune up and new plugs would work?
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is choking and/or almost stalling out when I shift usually from 1st to 2nd gear, but also sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. It usually happens after I've driven it for about 20 minutes upon coming to a stop (intersection/stop sign). When I finally go, I push on the accelerator but it feels like no gas is being pumped through with a loss of power. I repeatedly push on the accelerator until it finally kicks over and power is restored. My check engine light is on and I've had the diagnostics read from local parts stores and mechanics and no one can narrow it down. My mechanic said that it sounds like the valves were sticking but can't narrow it down to one thing without ripping apart the engine and going in deep, which would be expensive, but also not as expensive as a dealership.
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1990 Corolla 4AFE - 4cyl , auto, running well...without prior symptoms, now starts (4-5 times) and idles roughly (no moisture in the air) ....seems to me to be fuel..... I know it could be many things - but i have to travel to the car ( not much time last night) .....It doesn't rev clean, sounds choking and very slow especially in drive/rev....not as sharp misses. Start with the fuel filter ? Can the fuel pump go quickly ?or does it go slowly. injectors? I'll check for coil arcing tonight, and the strength of the exhaust (Cat is 23 yrs old.....Vinny?) IAC? ..... Dist cap, wires and plugs are good...
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When stationary the vehicle shudders randomly as if it is cold. When moving it seems to judder and almost burst with power then lose power again, over 3000 rpm the problem becomes less of an issue but the vehicle does occasionally judder still as if the tyres have low pressure - which they don't.
At first I thought the oil may need filling up but after this the problem still persisted. I have also checked all spark plugs and no wires or tubes appear to have come loose. I read on anpther forum that the clutch have have been soaked? - If a new clutch is needed, how much that would cost?
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The engine of our 2003 Camry (4 cylinder, automatic) is making a loud rumbling noise when stationary, both in drive and in park. The rumbling can be heard and felt, especially via the brake pad, and it persists when the car is driving at below highway speeds.
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