Passat (B6) :: Car Shaking At Any Speed
Aug 22, 2009
When I bought the Passat I told the dealer there was some "shaking" and they said they would take care of it. But so far they didn't and the problem seems to be intermittent but I can always feel the car shaking a bit. Sometime in the steering (un-balanced kind of thing) and sometime it's the whole body (since I can see my clothes shaking and feeling it in my back).
The problem seems to be worst when I released the gas pedal. But at any speed I can feel this "jumping" sensation which at lower speed it feels a bit worst. I can feel it more on new/even pavement.
Everytime I bring it in they check it but doesn't seem to show as much as when I drive it randomly.
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Got my wheels balanced and an alignment and my car still shakes at highway speeds only on the seats and body ? I hear a grinding (wheel barring) sound once in a blue moon which is weird on my passenger front (American car ) wheel and a humming sound at the back only when i engine brake? Unfortunately i daily my r32 till i buy another car so this shake is really annoying and apparently my car is giving no symptoms of what it can be cause magically when i bring the car to the shop it doesn't grind so they think I am retarded and they say the shake can be an axle cv joint but they don't know which one so they said to start from one and go around and I am not down to spend 600$ for each, is there anyway i can figure out which is causing this or do u think it can be that wheel barring? The car does it in gear or in neutral so it definitely something around the wheels i have no engine lights or traction lights ( clean car ) !
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I purchased a second hand 2000 Prius for my wife about a year ago and the car has been awesome. A few months ago she started experiencing a steering vibration only at low speed when cold and steering wheel turned sharply.
It got worse till you could feel a slight vibration when even going straight, I tried to scan the OBDII for faults but my scanner would not even work on the Prius.
I search online and bought a U380 OBDII scanner but since it would take a while to get to me I decided to disconnect the 12v to reset the computer (and fix my map lights while disconnected) when I reconnected the 12v the car started ran for about 10 seconds then cut out with the red triangle showing. I thought maybe I had done something wrong and the immobilizer had cut the engine, went inside to check my manual I had bought(cd version) on my computer and google search but found nothing.
Went out and disconnected the battery again and reconnected with same results. After some more searching went to car and it started right up no triangle. Here is the strange part, for the next several days the steering was great no shake at all and even the slight vibration was gone. Over the next few weeks it has slowly been coming back again but still not near as bad as it was, I finally got my scanner and scanned it but it shows no codes. I have not seen anywhere if successfully repaired this type of problem without replacing the whole steering rack but maybe I am missing something, anyway I have a couple of questions in my quest not to replace the rack.
1) Is it possible that it has the zero adjust error and my scanner is not reading it?
2) My repair manual(although it does not seem very good) shows resistors with some kind of contacts in with the torque sensors, is it possible these contacts just need cleaning?
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I filled up my car three day ago and ever since then its been shaking when I brake and when I speed up and pretty much any time the car is moving. Why its doing this I just had it in the shop two weeks ago for a full check up. What the issue could be?
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I have 2011 camry, which I drive at 30 to 40 mph some times its shaking. if I leave steering wheel it moving little left and right itself. (just little but going straight almost). what will be the problem is? current odometer 43K. no accident.
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My 2002 v6 camry is shaking while braking on a downhill at highway speed 60mph. This started yesterday. Afterwards on level surface and lower speed no shaking. Late yesterday, again on highway downhill, more shaking.
I live on a mountain and do not notice the shaking coming down at 30mph, including yesterday.
A couple of months ago the pads were 75% and the rotors were resurfaced approx 4000 miles ago. And the rotors are the third pair if i remember correctly.
I bought the car new and it has 121000 miles on it.
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I bought my 2012 Prius v with 99,000 miles. It started running rough at around 110,000. Time for new spark plugs.
I installed new OEM plugs. Still rough. New ignition coils, Still rough. My car was shaking & jerking at any cruising speed, fast or slow. It seemed to have trouble switching between the ICE (engine) and electric motor. It made a continuous click click click noise at slow speeds. I would get up to speed and let off the gas a little and it would start going chug, chug, chug until I gave more gas. I hated driving my car. The shaking was giving me a headache. I investigated every posibility; Motor mounts, ECU, trans, changed the trans fluid, cleaned the EGR tube, CV shafts, torque limiter, VVT, sluging, tried fuel injector cleaner. I took it to the dealer. They said there was a misfire on #4 cylinder. I told them the ignition was all new but the #4 spark plug was discolored when I replaced it the second time. The mechanic said "That's it! It must be the fuel injector!" New injector installed, $488, still ran rough, still the chug chug chug and click click click. A few days ago, it ran so bad and so weak, it used up all the battery power and could barely stay running. I stopped for gas. I thought " maybe it's the EGR. I should just unplug it." BINGO !! It runs great !!!!! Smooth !!!!!! Better gas mileage. No chugging! No clicking!
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1989 Camry, 2.0L A/T- 97K mi.- This car has developed a violent shaking condition when traveling at highway speed. It only occurs after the car has been driven for at least 1/2 hour. It does not appear to be related to an individual wheel or axle, and happens only when the accelerator pedal is depressed and the car is in gear and moving at 50+ MPH. Steering is not affected, nor does turning the steering wheel increase or decrease the shaking. The shaking stops when the accelerator is released. The engine runs smoothly, with no misfire or vibration.
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Lately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.
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I have a 2012 SE 4 Cylinder Special Edition and just hit 60,000. Lately, I have been noticing this vibrating/shaking in the front of the car when I'm coasting or accelerating at a slow speed. What it could be? I got my front end alignment done thinking it could be that but it still continued.
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My wife has a 2008 Dodge Charge SXT with the 3.5. The front passenger wheel is "shaking/bouncing" at highway speed, but only when turning that direction on a curve. It doesn't do this when turning left. We had the tires replaced, because that was the suggested fix because the tire was "chopped". They were at end of life anyway, past the ware bar. But it didn't work and it seems to be getting worse. One mechanic said he thought it was the wheel hub, another said tie rod. I replaced both front tie rod ends after the passenger one fell out about 18 months ago.
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Just replaced a badly worn Hub on my 98 AWD Explorer. The grinding noise is gone but now the steering is binding/shaking during stopped or low speed turns. What is going on or what I might have done wrong?
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I'm sensing a light steering wheel shaking when reaching 70mph. Also during the process of increasing the speed from 25-30mph and above I can hear a sort of beating noise which becomes more consistent when increasing the speed. Car goes straight (no left - right wandering). Now I'm assuming it may be something related with the bearings, but I guess the only way to find out is by sending it to a repair shop to understand if the noise come from one or two bearings and from front or the rear bearings?!
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I have an 04 6.0 F250. I am having a shaking between 1500 and 2500 RPM around 45 - 55 MPH. I have no guesses what is calling this, but the truck runs fine otherwise.
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In between 100km/h(60mph )- 120km/h( mph guessing like 70) the car appears to be shaking.
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Every time I try going over 50 mph, my car starts shaking. I can feel it throughout the cabin and in my steering wheel and gas pedal. What would be the cause of this. My CV's were both replaced a few months ago so it would not be those. [IMG] [URL] ...
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New wheels installed! They look great, but I have some shaking when I accelerate from 60 to say 90 mph! The hub centric rings are in place! Also before I installed the new wheels I hit a big pot hole and a had some low to medium howling noise coming from the front end! The hollowing is still present with the new wheels but I also have the shaking now!
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I'm new to the VW world so I'm not entirely sure what this noise can be. That car seems to shake more than it normally would when going over uneven pavement, such as dips and holes. It also makes a terrible clanging noise. Now I know this model is renown for needing engine mount replacements...but it feels like it's the suspension.
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Had a constant CEL two week ago, the car was shaking because the misfire. I went to an european auto shop, it ended up with replacing the intake manifold valve and charged me $700. They explained the valve could not be closed, and that caused a misfire(s). There were three fault codes on report.
This week, I got another constant CEL. I went to the shop and they charged me $50 for scanning the code. and told me it is a misfire on Cylinder 2. there is no fault on intake manifold valve. They dont fix that for free. I went back home and open the engine cover. The ignition coil 2 was replaced. Now, I really doubt if they replaced my valve or not. maybe just changed the coil and reset the alarm.
I have swapped coil 2 and coil 3 to see if the fault follows the coil. How can I verify if they replaced my manifold valve?
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I have vw passat 2001 model the whole car shakes in 4rth and 5th gear and i have bough vcds and tried to play a lot with it all these reading taken in idle position i also tried to do a full scan but that doesnt shown any thing related to the problem also can bus has no communication may be its faulty.
Here are some screen shots....
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I just put on KW v1 coils and 19 inch merc wheels about four weeks ago, and the car shakes over 55 mph. The tires are balanced( had them rebalanced to double check myslef) but I haven't had the car aligned yet. I had coils before or other cars but never had them aligned because of always moving the car up and down and never had the problem of a shaking car. Will getting it aligned fix everything.
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