Passat (B6) :: Car Lost Power And Acceleration After Brushed Aluminum Pedal Adaptation
Jan 6, 2009
I installed a set of brushed aluminum pedal about a month ago and now I feel that the car does not have the same power and acceleration like before! I mean if on 60mph cruising I want to accelerate to pass a car and push the pedal all the way up to the acceleration bottom the Trani only downshifts up to 3000 rpm and if I want pass quicker then push it all the way to the bottom then it shifts to 5000 rpm, in sport mode it is different and looks OK.
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What are the results of installing a brushed aluminum dash kit . I would like to install one on my 2012 .
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I have a 1999 B5 Passat GLS V6. It's been running well, though I had to replace the CCM last winter due to water intrusion. Recently, the battery needed replacing, and I swapped it out, then the car wouldn't restart normally. I can get it to start by holding a bit of throttle, but it still runs rough and won't idle. The Check Engine Light is on, and my OBDII reader gives me the P1545 code. The car will run in 'limp mode', but it maxes at about 15mph, and I need to keep a little throttle on constantly to keep it from stalling. I think I could make it the mile or two to the local VW dealer, but maybe late at night, with no traffic - it's certainly not driving normally, or even just 'poorly'.
A bit of Googling says that I need to do the Throttle Body Adaptation by opening the hood (and maybe the driver's door, turning the key to the 'run' position without starting the car, and then waiting for the whining noise that indicates the throttle servos are running through their range, and then I'll be fine. However, this procedure has not worked. Am I doing it wrong? Or does it not work with this make/model/year?
I walk up to the car, unlock it, pull the hood lever in the footwell, go open the hood fully, then sit in the driver's seat, leave the driver's door open a bit, and turn the key to 'run', without going all the way to 'start'. I've tried this procedure after clearing the code with my OBD reader, with and without cycling the key to off, and various other ways. If I can't make this work, then it's off to the VAG-COM list, and see if there's someone in North Seattle who can assist. I can also take it to the dealer, but I'm not thrilled about trying to drive it even that far.
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I own a 2006 B6 and I'm just ticking down the list of common repairs... The last series started with boost lost anytime the car was pulling a steep hill or high acceleration. Eventually I lost boost altogether. I replaced the PCV valve and got back a little power but still no boost. This last weekend I replaced the DV valve. The old one was visually shot. The new one is the latest revision of that valve. Now, the boost will kick in, and cut out, kick in, cut out, in a rapid cycle during any acceleration. I double checked that it was installed and tightened (stripped the bolt heads) and reseated the electrical connection. I'm still getting the rough on/off of the turbo. If I slowly increase the acceleration it will act better, but that isn't a sure thing. I love the car, but I'm about to reach the point of pushing it off a cliff.
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As I mentioned before, I'm looking forward to getting rid of the aluminum trim on my car (too bright and sun reflections) bu I saw a titanium wood trim that I like. Planning to have Dunkel aluminum from the radio down and this gray wood on top including the parking lights button and the 2 little drawers.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado rwd automatic 350 5.7. It died on me on the way to work this morning. It slowly lost power and acceleration. The lights and radio all worked. When I tried to restart, it tried to start but then just cranked like it had no fuel or spark.
I had it towed home and checked the following things. I removed the fuel filter, it is clear. I verified that the fuel pump was working by turn the key to the on position while the filter was off. Good stream of fuel. I verified that there was fuel to the TBI. Good spray while cranking. I verified that there was spark by pulling a plug out, connecting to the wire and cranking the engine. Spark seemed weak but there was spark. The front plugs were dry, but the rear plugs, especially #8 was very wet. I verified the timing by pulling the #1 plug, removing the distributor cap and checked the rotor position. I bumped the engine to get the #1 piston to the top of the cylinder and the rotor was point directly at the #1 plug wire. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are only 1 month old.
I also tried to check the ignition coil by disconnecting the coil wire from coil, and slid the boot back to expose the contact. I held it just of the coil while the engine was cranked, but did not actually see a spark at the coil. I did not hear any arcing. I pulled another plug and checked for spark. Again i had spark. Just seems weak to me. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get a new coil.
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My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
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Going up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
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Brushed aluminum window trim "blueing" in certain areas? It's not uniform, as would be the case if it were merely oxidation. Very strange. 2015 Passat Sport.
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I was driving my Taurus a few days ago when it lost all acceleration and power steering. The engine seemed to be running okay, and it restarted at the side of the road, but still no acceleration. I called AAA and had it towed to my mechanic. The following day they called and could find no problem.....
they had driven it several times, checked out likely causes but found nothing. This garage has been very reliable in the past. They said it could just be an electrical issue that may or may not happen again. The car seemed fine when I was driving it today, but I am worried about it happening again. What could have caused this/what I should do?
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1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
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I went for a drive in my new truck and hadn't put the pedal down until now. its really cold here (5f, or -15c). Anyways so i waited for the engine to get warm and then i put my foot down until i got to about 100km (60 mph). Everything was fine, I was on a gravel road so i turned around and did it again, this time i totally lost power once i hit around 60kmh. the check engine light flashed a few times, i tried again, same thing, this time the check engine light came on and stayed on.
I eased off the gas a bit, then came to a full stop a little ways down the road. I tried again and this time i had full power, though i didn't take it to 100kms because there were icy patches all over the road and the truck went a little sidways. The check engine light was off, and i tried one more time after that and got up to 100 and everything was fine and the check engine light never came back.
I'm worried, my first real truck here, what happened?? Also when i stopped the truck i had a listen to the engine, everything seemed normal, but I've noticed before there seems to be a clacking sound almost, not sure if this is normal with a 5.4? I had a 2.2 litre sonoma before this so I'm new to all this.
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My girlfriend has a '98 Passat with a 1.8t and she ran over something that cut the aluminum hard line that runs under the passenger side the length of the car. There are three there bundled together. The one that got cut is the outboard line. I couldn't see any fluid and when the car is running it cycles on and off with a valve or exhaust sound. Exhaust sensor of some kind.
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I changed the fuel filters today and saw a couple of small pieces of what looked like aluminum or aluminum foil in the bottom. Nothing in the filter itself it still looked good. I will try to post pictures later but I'm not sure it will show up. I don't recall seeing anything the first filter change and this is the second. Is this normal?
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Recently had battery problem on the Passat. I had to have the car jumped and the stereo was on. Now I have no power at all to the stereo, everything else seems to work fine. I checked fuse panel, no blown fuses. Is there a separate fuse or breaker for the Monsoon system.
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I think I have a busted dv. The car has lost all power feels like I have no turbo. One code when looked up says it could be a possible busted dv but can the other 2 problems be caused by this?? Also if I drive it very easy until the part comes Monday can I damage my car??
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.3
Data version: 20101206
Friday,15,April,2011,16:33:40:16973
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 25 37 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWEK73C76P109439 Mileage: 83400km/51822miles
[Code] .....
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Started noticing a whooshing noise when I let off the accel pedal on my 2002 F250 7.3 powerstroke.
You can hear it best towards the end of this video: [URL] .....
What could this be?
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Basically I lost power to all interior dome lighting, front and rear, i only have power to the front footwells. it happened when i tried changing/replacing the rear map lights while the car was on, i know i know, the car was suppose to be turned off, should i take my car to the dealer or is it a fix i can do?
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The light engine is on - I understand that the O2 sensor on bank one is gone, the car hesitates and I would like to understand what is wrong. Maybe other sensors or perhaps the turbo. The car has 62,000 miles. Will the car recup power by replacing the bad O2 sensor?
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My brother lost power on his passenger side headlight. ONLY the low beam. Everything works fine... any wiring diagram, looking for the fuse.
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I have a 99 passat 1.8t that as I was driving down the road just lost all power with no warning. I got to side of the road I shut the car off and tried to restart it with no success. Called a local vw shop and they said sounds like a camshaft or crankshaft sensor, so replaced them both with no new success. Why it would lose all power and after replacing those parts and new plugs still no fire to turn it over.
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