I have had neuspeed p-flo intake on my Passat for about 2 months now and I still can't manage to get the brakes to completely stop vibrating. I know it keeps rubbing up against the master brake cylinder, but how I should put it/ anything I can do to fix it?
View 4 Replies2007 passat wagon fsi auto..
Any fuse/relay of any sort for the ac system. My ac stopped blowing cold completely, didn't even fade out. So I was wondering how is best to troubleshoot and also had questions if I could recharge the system myself if that be the problem.
Had a problem with squealing brakes? My brakes squeal awfully when I am in stop and go traffic (in dry weather). Taken it to the dealer 2x and they've told me it will just do due to the pad having metal in it. I just have a hard time believing that my just over 1 year old car squeals like a dump truck..
View 9 RepliesWierd new noise from my brakes - No issue when I press the pedal, and they work just fine. However just as I'm about to come to a complete stop the brakes feel like the ABS starts kicking in. I can make it not stop by lightly pumping the brakes but this can't be right. What it could be. I just had CV boot replace if that could have done something.
View 1 RepliesWe've just towed our 2012 Prius as far as PA and found that the brakes are completely blown. What did we do wrong? Front wheels were up.
View 17 RepliesDown hill toward intersection with light that turned red. I braked fairly hard and then all of a sudden, brake pedal goes to floor and I go through the light. I pump brake once or twice and still nothing. Luckily I made it through without hitting anyone and eventually stopped with emergency brake. Turns out the line to the rear brakes blew. It was probably weak and maybe the pressure from braking hard blew it. This was sudden. There was no warning whatsoever. Reservoir was empty and practically no brakes in the front. There was enough front brakes to keep the truck from idling forward, but that is it. I thought that I should have had full front brakes with a modern day master cylinder. Looks like Ford blew it with this one. Very dangerous design.
Is there an upgrade available? I never want this to happen again.
I have the TyrolSport Brake Caliper stiffening kit on my R. My brakes were squeaking and I had not greased the pins in a bit so I thought that might be the issue. When I went to grease them, I notice one pin was completely loose. It was my driver front lower. I greased it and tightened it back up. That was maybe 2 -3 week ago. I checked again on Friday before my track day on Saturday and the same pin was lose. Not all the way like last time, but not locked tight. This one pin is the only one that seems to have issues. The other three are rock solid.
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a new Elantra 2012, 2 months ago. While driving it during the first month, I heard a strange vibrating noise. I went to the dealer, since it's under warranty until 2019, and they told me that when Hyundai did their recall on their Engines, the head gasket was constructed wrong and they just had to order another head to fix it.
Fast-forward two weeks and I finally got my car back. At first, it's perfect! No noise or anything, but about a week later, yesterday, it starts to make the noise again.
For my second noise, I know it's the brakes. They squeak when I stop, even though the company I bought the car from is not allowed to sell brakes >50%, I'm assuming they did anyway. The problem I have with this is that yesterday, while on the highway, the breaks made the squealing noise regardless if I was braking or not. As long as the car was in motion, it made noise. Should I be concerned about this?
We have a '95 GMC Vandura G2500 and today when we took off from a stoplight the van suddenly started vibrating like crazy and running rough. It was making a knocking noise and the van kept shaking the whole way home. The shaking was worse both coming to a stop and accelerating. We could also smell gas when we stuck our heads out the window.
View 7 RepliesThe brakes in my new '05 Treg are really, really touchy, especially when going super slowly (1 mph or less), or stopping completely. I find it almost impossible to bring the entire vehicle to a complete stop without the vehicle "jerking" backwards - if you know what I mean. It's almost like the brakes were being operated by an on/off switch. I got the "nothing can be done, that's how they all are" speech today from my dealer. Any solutions? Different brake pads, maybe?
View 24 RepliesI own a 1998 Volvo S70 with a turbo. As I was driving the other day I shifted the car from 4-5 gear. After I had the car in 5 gear, it chugged forward. I pulled to the stop light and the car stalled. It started again and I made it home. I checked the fluids and they were low so I added oil and power steering. It drove fine for the rest of the day until later in the evening when it chugged again after shifting. I then drove it the next day and the car completely died at the stop light. I couldn't restart it. It would turn but wouldn't stay on. There was also a strange smell coming from the engine after trying to start it again. Ive been told possible fuel pump or maybe the catalytic converter because of the smell..
View 5 RepliesI have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
View 4 RepliesIts been pretty cold up here and lately i find my car making a creaking sound when i brake coming to complete stop. I talked to a couple other guys in a Hyundai chat, and they said it was the Elantra frame in the cold.
Just wanted to get some others input, anything I can tighten up to make it go away, or bushings?? I am almost positive its not the brakes because i had them checked just before my winter tires went on.
1998 buick regal gs. My problem is when i throw my turn signal on at a stop or coming to a stop the car completely shuts off. Also now I have the problem with when that occurs I try to start it and now it won't do anything! Then once started the brake light and the anti lock light with the trac light is on and wont let me move the gear shifter out of park!
View 5 RepliesI made a thread in the F150 section but maybe it should have went here. Anyhow I'm replacing the front shocks on my 99 150, and well the bushing was completely seized up to the bolt on the bottom of the shock and I ended up breaking the one side of the shock mount off with it. I can't see any easy way of getting it off, I fear I might run into the same problem with the other side.
Would it be ok to just bolt the new shock back on, sans the forward mount? If its just bolted through the rear bolt hole will there be too much play? I really don't feel like replacing the whole lower suspension arm on this beater truck, and I dont think my welding skills are up to that. I don't think my little stick welder even has enough heat.
I have a 2000 S10 Chevy blazer .One day I was at a stop sign when the truck went completely dead , I had no power . I walked home , I came back a little later and figure I would give it a try well it started so I brought it home .. from then on it would start up some days and other times it would just crank but not start .After keeping it my garage for over a year , the other day I charged the battery and try to start the truck , it kicked right over and I let it run for awhile . I turned it off and restarted it again let it run for awhile . Yesterday I went up to start it again and nothing ,so I gave up , today it was the same thing it would just crank but not start . I know its not a fuel issue , and I don't think its an ignition problem ..
View 5 RepliesI almost always use my cruise control. When I turn off my car then restart under 2 minutes, the cruise control doesn't work UNTIL I stop completely.
When I turn off my car over 2 minutes then restart, cruise control works fine.
Is something not resetting right or something? It doesn't bother me.. I just have to restart my car after 2 minutes so my cruise control works.
So I've had my 2011 Hyundai Sonata since May of 2013 and I've had few problems with it until now. For some reason, at seemingly completely random intervals, my cruise control will completely stop working while I'm driving. What exactly I mean by this is that I'll be driving with cruise control set and suddenly it kicks off and I have to continue by manually controlling the gas pedal. I am also completely unable to turn Cruise back on until I have shut off the car and turned it back on. There are also times where I'll have Cruise control "On" but not using it and suddenly the Cruise indicator light on the dash will disappear, I'll try to turn on Cruise at that point and it will not work. Again this is the case until I turn the car off and then back on again.
I have followed a couple guides on adjusting the wiring harness in the steering wheel, behind the air bag, to make sure it is not a loose connector issue, but this has not seemed to work. Another reason why I think this may be something more than just that is that I'm also having transmission issues that seem to correlate with the times that my car loses the ability to use Cruise Control. Everything is completely fine with the car, including the transmission, until the above mentioned issue occurs, at which point if I happen to be driving below about 50mph, or reach a point where I have to slow down below 50mph, my transmission begins to intermittently disengage and reengage fairly erratically. It has happened a couple times while cruising at around 65-70mph, but has acted the worst bellow 50mph.
To make things even MORE confusing, the transmission issues seem to correct themselves with a simple shut down and restart of the car, just like with the Cruise Control problem. I'm at a complete loss now. I don't want to deal with a dealership unless I absolutely have to.
On my 2000 E-150, what is the thread for the wheel spindle, the one that holds the wheel bearings in place?
I had the outer wheel bearing completely shred yesterday, and I don't know if the threads were hurt yet as when I got home and the tow truck dropped it there, I didn't want to tear it apart. So I'm at work and would like to take a die home to chase the threads just in case.
Autozone's website has the spindle nut kit, but it shows:
Thread Size: 3/4-16 & M20-1.0
A machinist here tells me that they are not the same, so how do I know what I have?