How hard to replace it? I found a minor leak from left crimp clamp, the grease leaks all around it. It looks not too bad, but the grease will leak all out later. I thought there is repair kit on ECS, It seems I can replace brake pad,rotor and cv boots joint in the same day.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2004 1.8T 4Motion (automatic) that blew a CV joint boot. After inspection of the other side, I decided to replace both (just the outer boots). Got the axles out without much trouble but now I cannot drive the joints from the axles. I've tried both and neither is cooperating, I've knocked out off them with a mallet but they aren't budging. Is there something to do besides just driving them off?
Axles are tubes (hollow) p/n's 8D0 407 271 (& 272) ED.
2003 passat GLS stock w/ 1.8T, MIL comes on after full tank drops to about 3/4 full. Code 16826 will clear but keeps coming back, always when the tank is about 3/4. I have replaced gas cap but, no luck. Also, sometimes after filling the tank the light goes off by it's self.
View 2 RepliesTrying to do new boot kit on inner cv joint. I have the ball and cage type inner joint. The joint cap comes off really easy (and a new one comes in the boot kit). The boot cover doesn't come off so easy (and there is no replacement in the boot kit). Bentley's and pretty much every other source of info says to carefully drive off the boot cover to remove cage. But they all pretty much gloss over how to do this carefully. I've hit it a couple of times with a screwdriver blade and hammer, but it's not budging. Trying not to hit it too hard.
View 6 RepliesI believe that I have a leaking CV joint boot in my 2006 Outback. Occasionally smell something burning. Lifted hood and had some smoke. Saw leak and a friend stuck a finger into a hole in the boot.
View 9 RepliesLooking for some insight into the state of the motor in a 2002 XD. Short story is that it appears to be leaking oil from the valve cover gasket (common, I know) and sometimes winds up running extremely low on oil before it gets changed. When draining the minimal oil in these conditions, non insignificant amounts of water can be found along with the drained oil.
Car is at 155k miles, has exhibited this behavior for more than a year, and has no noticeable knocking issues, power loss, mpg loss, heating/cooling issues, or any other ill effects other than apparently making a mess in the engine bay, on the ground where it parks, and scaring people when draining the oil.
Logically this is going to not be the case forever.... Thoughts? Prognosis? Treatment?
I'm feeling a bit embarrassed posting my delima, but I have a minor coolant leak which seams to be coming from where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and as well to the thermostat nuckle thingy. I have replaced all of the hose fittings with SS band clamps.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the water pump, thermostat, alternator, rad hoses, belts, coolant sensor, PS tension pulley. The water pump is now tight and sealed. Since then the temperature gauge has been continually fluctuating from Normal to near Cold.
I was wondering if I should have placed some type of sealant compound where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and also to the thermostat nuckle thingy.
Initially, I thought it may be residual trapped air in the coolant system. But after a week, it became apparent that the heater hoses were leaking at the engine, and at the water pump, connections.
What puzzles and torments me is why is the temperature gauge fluctuating so widely up and down? This is totally weird.
I'm suspecting a small valve cover gasket leak. I've noticed dirt starting to accumulate near the alternator side of the front valve cover, there is dirt on there stuck to oil, I don't see any wet oil but its so minor the dirt just sticks to it. 107k miles here. Seems to be a common problem. I think Downhiller had a large oil leak, source unknown around his crank pulley area. You wouldn't think a car this young would leak oil. It's not bad, I havn't had to top any off I just like a mildly clean engine.
View 38 Replies2000 Acura Integra 98k miles. Around 90k timing belt, water pump and all sealants were done - and valve adjustment.
Since then I thought that there is a minor loss of coolant - also heard some grinding sound at cold start.
Today in calif, weather is under freezing. I saw handful of coolant under the car where the water pump is. The reserve tank is almost empty - at 95k coolant was topped up.
I went to another mechanic and he wanted to bring the car next week - he will try pressure test - if it is minor leak, it might not work he said - will do other tests. Didn't say the price. Not sure what the fee is for diagnostic.
What are some practical tips? This is the first car now and plan on keeping it. Given it is been about 2yrs with the timing belt job, I am not sure if I have any recourse. Credit card companies only take care if it is within 2 yrs.
Car is a 1995 Chevy Cavlier LS. 2.2L engine, about 127,000 miles. Has a minor coolant leak (freeze-out plug) and a slow oil leak (if I forget to check the level, the oil light comes on about 3000 miles after an oil change). It's beat up, had a few years of poor maintenance (but limited use) before I got it from a relative 3-4 years ago. I do oil changes at 3-5k miles, keeping fluids topped off, and try to remember to change the air filter regularly (which reminds me, I think I'm due for one).
Problem history: About 7 months ago, I had problems with the battery going dead. Some of it related to stupid mistakes--lights on or door ajar. Battery was old, parts store suggested replacing it. New battery fixed the issue. About 2 weeks ago, I tried to start it and ran into the same problem after the car hadn't been run for 2+ days. Dash lights come on, the key-in/startup bell chimes, but turning the key to start leads to fast clicking from the engine and the chime sounding rapidly. I forget if it made any other sounds at the time. Attempting to jump it didn't work, but the other car had an old battery and the cables were kindof cheap.
Called roadside, and he was able to jump it. He suggested taking the battery to Advance, so we did that.Advance charged the battery, tested it, said it was fine. Suggested I bring the car over and they could test to see if it's charging the battery. I did that, and it seemed ok. Engine was a little rough, possibly spark plugs, but I haven't checked that out yet. I figured I had done something stupid again and left a door ajar or the headlights on.Today, same problem again. I last drove it 2-3 days ago. Headlights were definitely off. It's possibly the driver door was ajar causing the dome light to stay on, but I doubt it. Same noises when I turn the key as before, I hear the sound of the engine trying to start once (I think that it's trying to turn over), but it won't start. Haven't had a chance to try and jump it yet.
Possibly relevant: Back in the spring, it wouldn't start one day, but the engine wouldn't do anything, no clicking etc. Neutral safety switch was loose/misaligned. Mechanic was able to make a small adjustment, and it's been fine.
I was draining my separator and noticed some oil accumulating on the bottom of the cylinder head right under the oil fill on the drivers side. My truck is 12 days out of engine warranty.
It's last service was probably around a year ago when the engine was torn down to replace the exhaust valves per the TSB.
My troubles began several months ago when while on the Pike the coolant sensor came on with a heart attack-inducing alarm beep on my 2001 Turbo VW Jetta. The billowing steam pretty much gave away the major coolant leak that had decided to erupt in the engine. Brought it to my local mechanic who promptly fixed the problem. About 2 weeks later, the light came on again, so I brought it back to him. He found some additional minor cracks in the engine tubing. Fixed it again. 2 weeks later....yep, you guessed it, the light comes back on. After 3 more visits with pressure testing and dye added, no leak can be found. We then tried the leak repair stuff....that was about 2 weeks ago now....and, yes, the light has come back on again.
The car is in very good shape with just over 100K miles on it and just had a lot of the biggies done on it in the last year (shocks, belts, brakes). I would love to get another year out of it since I just put all this money into it, but I'm getting tired of having to bring it to the shop every couple of weeks. I also don't want to get stranded if something decides to give way in some spectacular fashion.
So, my questions here:
1. Do I try the repair leak stuff again to see if that will work?
2. Is there any other possible causes that wouldn't require an engine rebuild that we should look at?
3. Do I just suck it up and carry around spare coolant with me topping it up as it gets eaten?
4. Do I call it a day and start looking for a new car?
I have an '04 Super Duty 6.0 and am just a couple hundred miles shy of 200K. The truck seems to be running great and I want to keep it that way. I'd rather invest in some upgrades and longevity than go into debt for a newer truck. What I can upgrade/do to keep this thing going for another 200K? I have replaced all of the injectors, the FICM, turbo, and the EGR valve through attrition. I also have a "very minor oil seepage leak on the lower end" of my engine. I'm not anywhere near mechanically inclined with vehicles, so almost any work that needs to be done will be through a local shop. I keep reading about "bullet proofing" the engine and have found very mixed reviews ranging from "YOU MUST DO THIS" to "it isn't necessary" or "bulletproof products are crap made in China".
View 5 Replies03 f350 5.4. Very minor coolant leak at the moment. Valley behind water pump looks a little damp and leak has shown a little on the passenger side block above the starter. Shows on the tranny bell housing and hits the y pipe every once and a while. I am thinking its the hose that runs under the intake manifold but wanted to check in here for some wisdom. Can it be bypassed or rerun without pulling everything.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2003 F450 PSD which won't start cold. I leave it plugged in overnight and it won't start in the morning without starting fluid. I spray a little while cranking and it turns right over. It runs really rough for a few minutes but as it gets hotter it settles down and runs like it's brand new.
Once at operating temp it will start up again no problem. I changed the GPs, the GPR, the valve cover gaskets and GP harnesses, 2 brand new batteries, oil change, fuel filter, air filter. I can't imagine what the problem can be.
I know the icp sensor is bad, I checked it and it has oil in it, but it still won't start unplugged so that isn't the main problem. I noticed it has a minor oil leak, not sure of where it's coming from, but it seems to leak when the truck settles.
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2008 with approximately 105,000 miles. I had my left inner tire rod replaced a couple days ago and today I notice a leak under the vehicle by the boot. There was not a leak previously. I had the tire rod replaced because it was loose and notice by the mechanic who was doing the front wheel alignment. Could the mechanic have damaged something that caused the leak? What could cause this leak? The vehicle seems to be steering just fine.
View 2 RepliesMy 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
My 2010 2.5L FWD Escape has oil on the steering boot and has run down on crossmember (?) It is equipped with Electric Power Steering. This appears to be coming from the rack and pinion but does it have fluid in it? How can you add if it does. I have 96,000 miles on the vehicle and except for a drivers door actuator and scratched drivers glass, this is only problem.
View 5 RepliesThe other day I noticed some brownish almost chunky looking fluid all over inside the wheel well for the front passenger side wheel. Doing some research it seems like it's probably a CV boot leak because that's where most of the fluid is concentrated. I took a few pictures. I just wanna know if this is serious???
View 6 RepliesI have coolant leaking from under my degas bottle. There was a spot on the driveway this morning and upon investigation, I saw a drip hanging from the bottom of the degas. No liquid on top at all. Where this is coming from? Bottom hose?
Also, the boot that connects the tube (right side while looking at front of truck) to the elbow that goes into the intake is leaking oil and making a mess. Whats the best way to fix? Remove boot, clean up, and put back on? Or replace boot? If replace, where can I get that boot?
I'm repainting my peeling shifter trim plate and replacing the shift boot with a new one. Lots of support available on removing the shifter and disassembling the trim plate, but no clear instructions on how to remove the boot from the knob. It looks like this inside:
How do I separate the boot from the knob to install a new boot? The only instructions I found showed a metal collar which is not the case in our cars.