My CEL turned on about 2 weeks ago. I took it to autozone and they ran it, and it came up as that my car is running too lean. Would this have to do with my MAF sensor? Also, It seems that my car is also burning oil. I have a 06 passat 2.0T.
View 24 RepliesGot an intermittent CEL a while back and my indy took a look on Thursday. I don't have the codes, but he advised it was running a little lean and there was an issue with the high pressure fuel sensor. Replaced the sensor on 4/11, cleared the codes, ran the car for a few miles and no codes and no CEL. I put a couple hundred miles on the car with no problem, but on 4/16, the CEL returned. I'm dropping it off with my indy again tomorrow, but I'm assuming it's the lean condition again.
Plugs?
O2 sensor?
Injector?
How much boost can you push on the stock turbo without it running too rich or lean?
View 3 RepliesThe fan inside my air filter box, or turbo charger intercooler (not sure of correct technical term) is running on and off for several hours after engine has been shut off. I believe this is running my battery down. Is this intercooler/fan suppose to run after the engine is shut off?
View 4 RepliesWent outside to start my '99 V6 and nothing! No interior lights, no door chime, no annoying ding ding with the key in the ignition. The car ran great yesterday but I noticed it sounded like the cooling fan was running long after the car was turned off in my garage.
I tried using a car starter/charger and charged it up for 3 hours - was reading a positive charge on the gauge- but it won't start. When I get ready to crank the car with the charger attached to it, the fan noise kicks in again but it isn't coming from the radiator fan- it sounds like it is coming from under the air intake for the air filter.
When I attempt to start the car,I can best describe the sound as a machine gun like cranking noise that lasts as long as I turn the key. I am hoping it isn't the starter. The battery is less than 2 years old with about 10k miles on it.
Today I had my 2015 Passat 20,000 mile service appt. The tech informed me that he heard the turbo still running after the engine was turned off. He said recently they had this happen to another Passat, and they had to replace the engine because metal flakes into the engine. Needless to say, I am not a happy. On the bright side, they did not see any metal pieces in the oil which could happen because of the turbo problem, but my car is going back to the shop in a few days for a thorough inspection.
View 1 RepliesDrove fairly fast (160km/hr or 100 miles/hr) then took an exit down a ramp and had to stop at a red light. Noticed all of a sudden that the engine was running bit rougher and then noticed the yellow engine light blinking. I know to turn off the engine immediately when this occurs but then all of a sudden engine light turned off and car was running smooth again.
Car has been reliable for 7 years - proper maintained, synthetic oil, 171000km, timing belt changed, burns very little oil, good torque. Should I have it checked by the dealer (fantastic fair vw dealer)?
I own a 1996 Mazda Protégé with 128,000 miles. I had it in for a check of a sewing machine sound. The mechanic tested it and found, among things, a "lean running condition". What does that mean?
View 4 Replies1998 ford ranger 4.0 ... fuel running lean ... how do you adjust it??
View 3 RepliesDriving home yesterday and a check engine light came on while I was at a stoplight. When I got home I plugged my scanner in and came up with a P2187 code, running lean at idle. Cleared the code and went inside to start doing my google homework.
Looking around various threads I'm leaning towards the PCV valve being shot. Seems like they go quite a bit and it describes quite a few of my problems going on; CEL, lumpy idle, and a bit sluggish.
Currently at 50k miles on my 2011. I've been Revo stage one for about 7k if that makes a difference too.
I was parking today and when i looked up my CEL was on. So I got the code pulled and it turns out I'm running lean with a base one. I think it was? the mechanic told me it was my o2 sensor but I'm not sure which one it may be whether it be before or after the cat?
View 5 RepliesMy F150 5.4 V8 is running to lean on both banks according to my code reader. I have replaced the fuel filter cleaned up the air filter and I am about to put in seafoam in the gas tank to clean out the jets and carb. I thought fuel pump but have never had to deal with this before. I just bought the truck last thursday. Also my gas gauge is stuk at empty and the low fuel light is on ....
View 14 RepliesMy mother-in-law has a Camry and she is pulling codes for running lean and airflow leak detected. The little red circled device mounted on the side of the air intake boot is hissing out air, yet I don't even know what the thing is called....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Ranger, with a 4.0 V6, 4X4, with 175,000 miles and it still runs great except the check engine light is on and it is saying that both banks are lean. I put in new plugs, all 3 O2 sensors, cleaned the MAF and checked for vacuum leaks, all to no avail...
View 17 RepliesEngine light won't go off - printout says it's running lean - replaced mass airflow sensor, upper & lower O2 sensors, spark plugs, wires and coils. What else I need to do to get the light to go out so it'll pass inspection?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Audi A4 1.8t (AWM engine, B5 platform). When I start the car, I get misfires on all cylinders (very rough idle, sometimes it stalls when the engine is cold) and the car appears to be running lean. Once the CEL comes on, it runs fine (albeit the slight loss of power do the ECU going into limp mode to correct the problem).
So far, I've done the following myself: new O2 sensors, new SAI pump, new EGR valve, new diverter valve, new N75 valve, new vacuum hoses, cleaned the throttle body, new MAF sensor, cleaned the air filter, new plugs, and new coils. When the problem persisted, I had my mechanic change the timing belt, check for vacuum leaks, change the valve cover gasket, replace the fuel pump and filter. None of this has solved the problem! This is driving me nuts.
At this point, there are only two possibilities that I can think of:
1) Catalytic converter is clogged? I pulled out the pre-cat O2 sensor, started the car, but it still misfired. This seems to mean that there's another problem (i.e., if the cat is clogged, it's in addition to something else).
2) Dirty fuel injectors? I've put two bottles of Techron through the car to no avail. From the outside, they look pretty dirty, so I'll definitely try removing them, cleaning them, and replacing the gaskets. Hopefully this solves it.
Is there something I'm missing?
I have a 1999 Ford f150 4.6L automatic. My check engine light had been on for awhile so I dug out my DTC code reader erased it, came back on 10-15 minutes later. I got the code P1131 sensor indicates lean which you would think is the O2 sensor a week later it won't start. Then randomly a couple days later it starts then that night it didn't. Hear is the parts that confused me. I don't believe an oxygen sensor would cause it not to start, it's cranking nice just won't turn over. And when you get the code P1131 I believe it bay 1 where the readings are off Well here's my readings.
Fuel system 1 CL-FaultCalc load 34.1%ECT 201.2 FSTFT B1 -1.6%LTFT B1 0.0 %STFT B2 -1.6%LEFT B2 0.0%ENG RPM 1101VEH SPEED 27 MPH
It looks like to me bay 1 and 2 are off? I'm not mechanically challenged, but not a mechanic either, I do most my own work on my vehicles..
]I recently bought a 1990 ford ranger with a 2.9 @187,000 miles. That being said I went through and changed a few vacuum lines, the oil, air filter, pcv/grommet, and fuel filter.
The problem is it hates to start. I could crank on it for 10 seconds and not a single thing. Sometimes if i turn the key to the off position, wait a second, and try again, Ill get the truck to fire. When it does fire up it just reeks of the lean exhaust. It also gives me some hesitation when I rev it. I did a fuel pressure test (KOEO) last night and it gave me 32 psi and within a minute the needle fell to about 25 psi. I hear the fuel pump run for only 2-3 seconds too.
I've already pulled the MAF off and cleaned it, replaced the TPS, and did a fuel pressure test. The fuel filter is brand new
I picked up a really cheap Hyundai Elantra 2005 that the kid that owned it really beat up on. Right now I am trying to sort out the issues so that it can become my daily driver for the next few years.
Second issue, The check engine light is on and it is popping up a P0171 generic engine running too lean code. The car looses power sometimes and I can smell gas in the car. I have a friend that is going to be loaning me his MAC code reader so that I can see if it is one of the O2 sensors and if so which one tomorrow.
i have a 2005 f150 4x4 5.4 3 valve. it ides good but when it is in on it splutters, and also feels like dead cylinders in passenger gear. i checked the codes the other day and i had a cylinder 5 misfire. so i cleared it and today checked again and had running lean bank one and cylinder 8 misfire, then checked one more time and had cylinder 7 misfire. I am sure it is a bad coil but how do I know which one?
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
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