Passat (B6) :: Breather Block Off - Check Valve Is Broken?
Oct 26, 2012
I have the bsh pcv fix and since the valve in the breather was making that noise, I busted the valve out.
Now I think I have a small boost leak somewhere and would like to pressurize the system but what do I use to block off the breather tube now that the check valve is gone?
I hear a little horn like toot sound around 5psi. Almost like letting a balloon full of air fly around letting the air out. How to describe it. Pretty sure it's a leak.
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As far as I can tell, the rectangular breather is full of some type of stainless mesh. I cannot separate the halves. I may have pulled a bonehead move and left it tin the solvent tank and didn't realize it was still on....ofcourse it was full of solvent. Just cleaned it real well. I drained it and am going to let it dry out before install next week.
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We have a 2009 2.0 Tiguan with approximately 60,000 miles. About 6 months ago, the check engine light came on so we took it in and found out the breather valve was stuck causing oil to enter the cylinder and causing misfires. Had this fixed an about a week later, the car acted up again. Took it in and removed & reinstalled the intake manifold. Both pricey fixes. The dealership said it was a problem with the 2.0 engine design. Now we have taken it in again to a local shop who is now informing us we will need to replace the intake manifold. He said the same thing about the engine design. Our concern is that this problem will need to be fixed on a fairly regular basis. We really love the vehicle but cannot afford the cost of this maintenance if it becomes routine and are considering trading it in for a Passat.
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I keep losing pressure in my left front tire. I've filled this tire about 5 times in the past 3 months compared to just once (the first time) in the other 4 tires (3 plus spare.) Dealer is trying to sell me on nitrogen and says that this is a common issue with air and TPMS but everything is normal, but I know it isn't. If it was then I'd have to refill the other tires too, but I only have to refill just this one.
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2002 My friend's 2.7L sante fe crankshaft position sensor went bad and I went to replace it. Removed bolt, it was stuck fast, tried to pry out and it broke off leaving the last 1/2 inch stuck in block. Tried drilling a hole in it and using a screw to get it out but no luck. Afraid to keep drilling that I might damage something behind it. How to get it out?
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I brought my 2004 Passat 1.8 in for check engine light-- After checking several things and test driving the car they said the finally found the problem-- the "combinations valve" I searched the forum and below was all I found this under that word combo-- is that the only "combination valve"? This is not something I've heard about before-- are they just saying perhaps 2 different valves?
" Turbocharging System, Overview"
For brake booster
10 - Air filter with Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor - G70 -
11 - Pressure control valve for crankshaft housing ventilation
12 - Combination valve
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I just finished putting a 7.3 back in one of our f450 plow trucks today, so then i moved onto our 2001 F250 5.4 plow truck. The dipstick tube was rusted in half so i pulled on the remaining half to get it out and put in the new dipstick. However, it broke off at the block. So now i cannot see how to get the rest out with out doing a lot more work. I haven't removed the splash guard yet but will i have to remove the manifold , the oil filter base, or both?
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I only have 2200 miles on my new 2012 Passat SE V6 and the check engine light came on the other morning. I took it in to the dealer and they found codes P0442 (EVAP Emission Control System Small Leak Detected) and P0456 (EVAP Emission Control System Very Small Leak Detected). The tech says on the work order that he removed and tested the EVAP Purge Valve with a vacuum pump and the valve would not hold a vacuum. The dealer replaced the EVAP Purge Valve under warranty. They say this is the first 2012 passat V6 they've seen with this issue. I've only had the car for 4 weeks.
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I was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
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I am just wondering at what revs the stock intake manifolds are meant to switch over as i think mine is stuck and not moving.
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Have had my Excursion for a few weeks now. Took it to the dealer for some maintenance on the brakes. Had them do oil and fuel filters while it was there. Dealer calls to tell me that the water drain valve had broken off when they tried to drain water and the needed to replace the housing. Picked it up today and this is what they found when they pulled off that assembly...
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I have a 2016 f350 diesel dually (my first diesel).I changed the oil in the truck myself back in April and learned a messy lesson of how much pressure is pushing on 13 quarts of oil. I would like to replace the oil drain plug with a Fumoto F106SX M14-1.5 Sx series drain valve. I have only one question for everyone, have any of you that replaced your drain plug with a drain valve had it snap off while driving? I do not off road, except for driving through a campground when towing a 5th wheel trailer.
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So... have a 2010 Prius V, about 80,000 miles.
Tried to start it this morning and got a "Check Hybrid System". No start. Brought it to the local Toyota mega dealer here in Lakeland, FL. (They were pretty organized and on things, so I was pretty impressed.)
Anyway, just got a call back and it's a junction block fuse that was blown. Questions I have are
1) What is this a fuse for? The actual hybrid battery?
2) Where is it located, and
3) (the EE in me) Doesn't something usually cause this fuse to blow?
Dealer will attempt to replace fuse and drive it around to see if it's fixed, but something typically causes fuses to blow.
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Is it dangerous to the car to drive if the wire connection is broken to the camshaft timing oil control valve? It seems to run fine.
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2012 Elantra GLS. Wife comes home and says the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) light on the dash is lit. I check the tire pressure. None abnormally low but I decide to top them off. Notice that two of the valve stem caps are broken. The tips are broken off so I can see the little red gasket. On opposite sides of the car. No damage to the wheel covers. The valve stems don't stick out past the wheel covers so I wonder how the caps could have gotten broken. Could that be why the TPS system is giving me a warning? If by chance there was a pressure issue does the light reset itself or does the dealer have to do it?
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My 2001 escape recently decided to act up, it was running rough for a little while and then it died and would only run intermittently after that. I found the #3 coil was bad and the egr valve was broken. I replaced those and now when it decides to run it runs smooth but when you give it has it bogs down and dies and doesn't want to run again for a while. I also put on a new fuel filter and the fuel pump sounds like its running good. I know I'm missing something here but I can't seem to figure it out. Also there are no DTC's at all. I really need this car to be back on the road again.
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2003 F-250 SD 7.3L Supercab
Problem 1: Right rear
Occasional smell of heavy grease, white smoke billowing out from under wheel well (once), black fluid leaking from lower area of caliper. Told it could be axle seal or caliper. I'm leaning toward axle since the caliper is only 1 yr old (NAPA OEM).
Oddly, I also notice a loud, piercing screech when going around traffic circles or exit ramp clovers to the right. I thought this was my trailer until it did the same thing without it.
Axle or Caliper?
Problem 2: Left front
Local mech advised the bleeder valve is broken off in to the unit and cannot be simply replaced. Insists it needs whole caliper. If pedal is all the way up there is a temporary breaking capability then it slowly creeps to the floorboard, hits a brick, and keeps rolling. Replaced master cylinder a few months ago when it same. Drove it for the last 2 weeks and problem is back.
Removing broke-off bleeder valve instead of replacing cals?
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So while inspecting my CV grease explosion everywhere (pretty sure I tanked an axle), I noticed my crankcase breather tube was smoking, which I found to be odd. Is that normal? It looked kind of like exhaust...
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After installing my cai, I couldn't find where to put this breather hose, I'm lost to if I need it and where to put it...
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I need to put a check valve into the vacuum line that runs to the gas tank. I know that this line is somewhere in the rear passenger side of the engine compartment, but there's so many lines there that I find myself confused when I look at it.
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I have been dealing w/ a broken gas gauge for a while and have been monitoring my mileage and fill-ups and have been able to calculate my gas usage pretty well, however sometimes I may get a little lost on where my level is at. I just recently have been using a long plastic tie strap that reaches the end (I think) of the gas intake and I believe hits the gas tank. (Its goes in about 4' and I cannot push it any further at that point)
My question is when it comes up w/ no gasoline on it I am wondering how many gallons are remaining. Looking at a diagram of the gas tank it looks concave, where some of the gas may sit lower that where my tie hits. But I am almost certain that I have at least a few gallons remaining. For safety and other reasons this is not something that I am doing often, its just in this case I am a few miles from a gas station so I do not want to risk it.
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