Passat (B6) :: Boost Flutter And Sluggishness
Jan 18, 2012
So Im going to post a series of graphs of boost compared to rpms. I also did fueling and wastegate. Im having an issue with alot of boost flutter and sluggishness
Idle lambda is at -1.3
Partial lambda is at 13.5
Graph one showing specified and actual boost compared to rpm
Got rid of the crappy autozone special sunpro boost gauge and installed the newsouth that bill shipped me.
Only getting -10 vac at idle
Spiking and holding around 24-25 psi and then it barely drops at all but it holds at 24psi for a while which is kind of scary....
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I have an 03 GTI 1.8t with the stock K03s turbo and i used to boost to 25 pounds. Had to put a new motor in and now i when i boost above 20 pounds i get turbo flutter and loose boost. I can boost anywhere up to 20 pounds and the turbo doesn't flutter at all.
I had a spring on my waste gate which i have taken off and it changed nothing. I tried a different diverter valve and it didn't change anything. I unplugged the MAF to see if the N75 or the there was a boost leak and extra air wasn't being monitored but still changed nothing. It has nothing to do with my RPM range just when i boost over 20 pounds. I am planning on doing a leak down test to make sure there isnt a boost leak....
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My boost gauge is bouncing around during the flutter at peak psi? I have a apr stg 2 evoms intake and full tbe exhaust 42dd...
Here is a exact video of the flutter i am talking about [URL] ....
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My 2006 B6 2.0T (K&N filter, Forge DV) has slowly lost it's "zippiness" over time,, and yes VW says "not a thing wrong with your car sir". Well now, I've started noticing that while going down hill in me neighborhood (about 30mph), note this has occurred before and after the DV install... My car's RPM starts to "flutter" (up and down continuously) from about 1100-1900rpm until I either come to a complete stop or go over 35-38mph to where I think the gear is engaged from the higher speed.
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I have a 99 V6 original owner with 177,000 miles. The car has all the usual work done for its age and miles with one cam tensioner and associate seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.... Getting some burn oil smell and believe the other tensioner is starting to leak but it's not bad. Replacement of the cracked AC coil was difficult...
Lately when the car is in higher gears, light load, and RMPs around 1,400 to 1,800, the car starts to flutter and the rmps jump up and down a couple of hundred and you feel the car lurch a bit. It's not harsh. Feels like a miss but you don't feel much engine jump or knock. Under hard acceleration, the RMPs are smooth and no lurching.
When I back off down to 1,400 or 1,500 and accelerate easy, the problem returns. Sometimes I feel it up at 3,000 but not as pronounced. The car is not throwing codes.
All ignition components are fresh in the last year with wires, pugs, etc... I still need to get this car to 250K...
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I had my car in a garage for 5 days and it started up and drove fine. I went to the store got back in my car and now if feels like the car is working harder to move and the initial electric motion feels impeded.
Tires at 29-33psi. Oil was at low line. Filled it up....test drove and it feels the same sluggishness
The gas engine even sounds like it is working harder to move.
My car has over 200,000 miles.
I think I need a new cat converter....but I have been trying to find one...
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Previously, I would sometimes experience sluggishness and hesitation when attempting to accelerate. Now, the problem has become worse. Also, previously the issue occurred when I suddenly needed to accelerate to pass another vehicle. Now, I can feel it from take off, you really hear the engine struggling(the kind of sound you hear on an old 4 cylinder vehicle trying to go uphill). Sometimes, I feel the engine is struggling to keep the vehicle at a constant speed on a level road. Tried fuel injector cleaners like BG44K. While these injector cleaners are in the gas tank, the car runs smooth and has decent acceleration. Later, I return back to square one.
It is not that I have high expectations and am a power freak. I used to own a 2004 RX330 with 150K miles and that car ran better at 150K without any tune up then my GX460 with 60K miles. So, you can imagine my frustrations.
One more thing I noticed, it runs better when I just gas it up. One theory, could be the fuel filter is clogged. When I am suppose to change the fuel filter on the GX460?
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I'm noticing some odd behavior from my Brand New (50 miles) Chevy Sonic. When I get to about 40-45 mph steady, the car seems to apply a small amount of braking every few seconds. The effect is strong enough that my head bobs forward somewhat.
On a long drive, I could see it getting VERY annoying. It really "feels' like braking and not like engine sluggishness, but I"m not 100% sure. I was thinking traction control. I'm going to the shop next week but would be nice to be pre-loaded with some ideas, maybe even some things I could look into myself.
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My 2004 Treg has 24,000 miles on it and though I still LOVE it, it has been in and out of the dealer for inconsistent power issues. Off and on there is a noticeable delayed response from when you engage the gas and when the vehicle responds. Not to mention the transmission feels very jerky and rough as well. I have heard numerous reasons for this, but this week I got a new reason! The VW dealership says that now it could be that my air filter is dirty and needs to be replaced! They said if the new air filter does not fix the problems that I will need a whole new computer system!! Does this make any sense?
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I've been experiencing this problem since I had the car but it gets me around fine and has been getting 30mpg; hasnt bothered me all that much but i'd really like to get the problem solved... A few months ago I hooked up a boost gauge and she would not boost beyond 2psi. Since then I've changed the air filter, spark plugs and found a wire that was un-plugged causing the engine light to stay on. Hooked up a scanner and no more codes.. But the car still doesnt pull the way I'd think it should and with a stop watch hits 60 in no less than 9 seconds (shouldn't it be around 8?). The WG actuator rod is free, but I disconnected that electronic control solonoid, drove the car hard and there was no change in performance or driveability! One thing I havent done is change the fuel filter so I'm thinking maybe it's in a limp mode and awaiting the fuel filter to be changed? But then wouldnt a code come on if this is the case?
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[URL]...........................................................
My wife hit a deer going 60MPH 3 hours from home. Go back up and pick up the car, it's down on power, I feel it surging on and off boost, hard to drive smooth. Roughly a half hour later I get a CEL. Don't have the code handy, but Boost limit Maximum exceeded. My local VW dealer says its a normal wear and tear item so Allstate will not cover it. The car had the radiator, radiator support, condenser, hood, bumper, grill, passenger fender, timing belt cover and timing belt replaced.
Allstate says not covered, like a flat tire, once I leave the shop, its like a flat tire on the road, nothing to do with the repair. BTW I had it repaired at an Allstate recommended PRO shop. I get it back tonight after 8 weeks of fooling around. Will need to check the actuator, hopefully it's bad. The turbo itself is good, boost fine, no smoke.
This is an 04 Passat 1.8T. I have had 14 cars with turbos, still have four and have never had a turbo go bad, full synthetic oil every 3K and 60 second cool down in hot weather.
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Is there any difference in boost between drive and manually shifting with a tiptronic? How about using sport mode?
I saw a video of a guy testing hist mkv with apr stage two and he reported that he was not getting full boost when manually shifting his dsg.
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Just got the car not to long ago and its not making any boost right now. the CEL is on and its throwing a code for a MAF sensor. what would be your first step to resolving this problem.
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I have a 2003 volkswagen passat, front wheel drive with a 1.8t. I was told that I could get more boost out of my turbo without having to do any major modifications. Is it possible or not. Because as it stands right now I am completely lost when it comes to this.
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I have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
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I just replaced my steering rack and now I have a strong pull to the right when boost come in.
I am gettin an alignment this week but could an aligned problem cause this?
I transferred my old tie rod ends over to the new set up. They are pretty new.
It's a very similar feeling to when I had a bad control arm bushing. I just replaced a lot if the front end stuff though and this was not happening before the install.
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So i let my car cool down for a minute after i drive it and today while it was cooling it would like bog down but it wouldnt die. Ive seen it while at a stop sign or stop light. Only while it was cooling down. It is HOT here so could that be the problem?
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I have a '98 b5 1.8t fwd Passat with 104k miles on it, that's not making any boost. I've pulled the turbo intake pipe off and spun the turbo and it spins smoothly and free of any shaft play. I pulled the vacuum line from the N75 to the wastegate and it's STILL not making 'any' boost, with the exception of about 1psi when flooring it, and 3-4 psi when the car shifts at WOT into a higher gear.
To me, without the n75 providing the can ANY pressure, it would lead me to believe that the wastegate is stuck open somehow. I'll put my wastegate-inflator-o-matic on it tonight and see if it moves at all when I provide pressure to the can -- but is there anything else I should be looking for or try? After that I would assume I'd need to pull the cat and feel in the exit of the turbo and feel if the wastegate is closing all the way...
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I was underneath my car checking everything out before heading to h2o and I'm pretty sure I found a bad o-ring causing a slight boost leak. Oil is seeping through the connection between the flange for the TOP and the turbo itself (see picture). 99% of the time oil seepage between connections is indicative of a boost leak. So I go to the dealer to try to find a replacement o-ring but they told me that they cannot obtain the part and it isn't available anywhere and that they don't even have a part number for it.
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Car: 2006 Passat 2.0t 6mt - 81k miles. Has lived a grocery-getter life with an occasional romp on the back roads on the off chance the wife and kids aren't with me.
Symptom: Total loss of power (boost?) at at around 3-5k rpm and almost no power to accelerate (10-15sec to get one more mph). Service Engine light has come on twice, but clears with time or removal of negavive battery terminal. At low RPM range power is good, but suspect minor power loss. I'm only partly suspect on that last statement since I only drive it once a week. Idle seems normal, engine sounds normal at idle. Last week I did notice a barely audible whistle when boost is engaged. I have no access to a Vag-Com accept at the dealer.
The car let me down last weekend when I was smoking a jerk in a BMW that wouldn't let me get on the interstate. If it is the PCV and DV, where I can get one? Also, I'm not a tuner. I want OEM performance.
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So when i try and brake boost, I put my foot on the brake and then harder on the gas but instead of building power my ecu just cuts the boost. I tried it with traction control off aswell.
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