Passat (B6) :: Battery Light On - AC Compressor Seized
Aug 7, 2012
The car is an '06 Passat 2.0T 83k. A few weeks ago my wife came home complaining that the battery light was on, when I lifted the hood I saw that the belt was shredded and later realized the compressor seized. I replaced the parts recommended; Compressor, condenser,etc., brought it to service station that does our fleet cars and had the system vacuumed and recharged. Now the compressor will not turn on, when I push the button on the dash it lights up but no a/c, the fans dont even come on comes on. The blower and all the related switches works but no power to the compressor. All the fuses are fine, and when the guy at the service station put power directly to compressor it comes on and works fine, he also said the pressure sensor/switch checks out fine. I even changed the controller on the dash, but nothing.
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I recently had a full tune up at 87,000 miles. My receipt does not mention any inspection of the A/C system. 50 miles after the tune-up, my A/C compressor seized. Dealer claimed this was simply coincidence. I think there is a chance that they checked the A/C Coolant level and may have not secured the valve. I cannot find on the internet evidence that this compressor is prone to failure at just 3 years (87,000 miles).
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Two weeks ago, I had a/c repairs done which involved the replacement of the a/c field coil unit and a condenser fan motor. Yesterday, the compressor seized up. Could the repair, if done incorrectly, have caused the part failure?
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My ac compressor has seized up and now needs to be replace at a cost of nearly 2,000. Maybe I can go a few weeks with out it, but I will not be able to have heat or defrost as the colder temps come in for the fall. Why this would happen? 109K on the odometer. The mechanic also suggested that I change the timing belt and the water pump (neither are broken) replacing these is also expensive. am I crazy for not changing the timing belt and water pump?
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I haven't been on for a while but new issue my AC won't work the compressor is not seized it just wont come on checked all the fuses and tried to check the wiring but it is so short then it go's into the main wiring harness is there a way to see if it is the compressor or not some way to test it? It is on my 2002 explorer 4.0l vin "E" eddie bower.....
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I just bought a 96 f250 5.8
Upon driving home, i tried the ac again and the ac clutch started to smoke. I replaced the clutch with one from autozone, but when I tried it again, it made a screaming death noise upon clutch engagement. Is my compressor seized?
I tried to turn the clutch (not the pulley, that spins fine) by tapping one of the slots and bolts with a screwdriver/hammer. It was firmly locked in place. If the compressor was OK, would it have turned easily? If I need to replace the ac pump, who sells a good/cheap/reliable one?
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I have a 2001 ford f150 with a 4.6 liter v8, my ac compressor is completely seized up, I can't afford to replace the ac right now. So I would like to just get a shorter serpentine belt to bypass the ac for now, need to get a measurement on the shorter belt for my engine? and the proper way to re route the belt without the ac?
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I have a 2001 Subaru Forester which has 165K miles. I had the timing belt changed at 105K per maintenance recommendations. I had the car in for service recently for brake pads, etc., and the dealer recommended replacing the drive belt for the AC.. which I did. 100 miles after this service, the car broke down unexpectedly. The dealer told us the AC compressor seized up... and this caused the drive belt to get caught on it and be shredded ... and with that, the sudden resistance from the drive belt on the crankshaft pulley caused the timing belt to slip out of sync and damage the interference design engine. Can that really happen? I surprised that this happened a few days after replacing a drive belt and wondered if somehow the service work done with the drive belt could have caused the problem. The dealer states the service work did not cause the problem. Is my recent service and damaged engine a coincidence as the dealer said or are they related?
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This morning my brakes seized up on me on the freeway. I noticed it when I pressed the brake pedal and I it would barely go down. Then, I could smell the brakes. I pulled over and there was a strong smell from the brakes and I couldn't press the brake peddle down any. I waited a while and let the brakes cool off and then they were fine. I got the rear brakes replaced at the dealership earlier this year.
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My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
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2013 Elantra manual. 60,xxxkm, owned from new, purchased in August 2013. Oil changes always done within 5-7000km. Was 2000km over my oil change due date when this happened (haven't had time to get it done, been driving my motorcycle mostly). Driving around today I dropped my wife off, then I heard a quiet ticking noise under very light acceleration.
The noise would go away under normal acceleration, no noise while revving, and no noise while engine braking. The noise got worse after about 5km. I was in traffic and engaged the clutch into first gear, the car stalled violently. Turning the key results in a click, then nothing. In 1st gear the car will not roll forward. In reverse the car will not roll back. It still rolls in neutral. Had it towed to my local Hyundai dealer and got a rental. Waiting on the results.
Never saw a drop of oil on the ground while parked, and never smelt any oil burning. I run between 87 and 91 octane, whichever is available. I have the extended 160,000km 8yr warranty, hopefully this is covered as I still owe about 15g's on the car.
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so my battery light came on yesterday, so i tested the battery at work, perfect, also checked the charging system, great. then on my way home from work, my cluster and radio/climate/window switches all out, but they react to the brake switch, on when pressed, off when released(sometimes) the blower motor also loses speed at idle compared to normal speed when rpms are up..
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Checked the belt & alternator pulley but nothing wrong there. Battery looks good too. What can it be?
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So, I have have an intermittent flickering of the battery light. The weird part is that it ONLY happens between 80 and 85 mph. Any faster or slower and it doesn't happen. It's not a steady flickering, but a random intermittent flicker. What the issue may be? The car has a new (within 2000 miles) battery and alternator. 1.8t with manual transmission.
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195K, B5, 1999, AEB. The battery light on the dash is flickering...mostly off, but the light (battery symbol) lights up ever-so lightly...then off, then on...on for about half of a 45 minute drive last night. Voltage regulator? Alternator? The battery seems fine, as it turns over after a cold night...
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Clutch for the AC Compressor will not disengage even with the AC off. The only way I can daily the car is if I disconnect the power from the AC Compressor at the compressor itself. Seems the AC compressor has a constant draw if it is plugged in.
Plugged = dead battery...
Unplugged = good battery...
I'm getting ready to rip the damn thing off the engine and calling it a day, but that would defeat the purpose of me buying a new compressor.
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Like the title says, I was driving into work today and it came on three times. It went off for a little each time and then came back on.
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2006 2.0T with 86k miles. Anywho, a few days ago I attempted to start the car up & it felt as if the engine started up then immediately cut off & the red battery light would show up. I then tried to restart it up and it fired up successfully & the battery light immediately went away. well today, i drive it to my grandmothers house and have dinner, come back & fire it up and the same thing happens. only this time i had to try about three times to start it up successfully. I am aware of the whole steering column lock issue but it didnt say this at all on the mfd display screen. is it safe to drive around?
Here's a link : [URL] ....
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I have a B5 Passat that came in with the alternator workshop light on. Upon a few tests i determined the alternator was bad. I removed the alternator and installed a remand one that was correct for the vehicle. amps and all. After getting it all back together i started it and the car ran fine. I drove it around and shut the car off. Customer took the vehicle and after 15 minutes the car was back for the alternator workshop message being on and battery light again.
I restarted the car and it was off. I restarted it again and it came back on. Replaced the Alternator again with another and took it for a more extensive drive. The lights stayed off this time. I parked the vehicle and shut it down. Waited a few moments and restarted it just to be safe, the lights had came back on again..... After testing it more I've come to find that when the lights are off the alternator is charging the vehicle as it should and when there on the vehicle is not charging. I don't know what it could be at this point but I am absolutely sure its not the alternator.... I honestly don't think this many are bad in a row.
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I was putting in a subwoofer earlier today, and after I put everything back together, I turned the ignition to ON just to test out the system, and all the electronics worked fine.
However, when I went to crank the engine, nothing would happen, not even a click or crank. I tried jump starting the car, and it would crank and crank and crank, but wouldn't go on. All the electronics still worked fine, but the EPC light, CEL, and battery light would be solid. While cranking, the battery light would occasionally flicker.
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I got a 99 1.8t. Here's the deal, misfiring at idle, flashes battery light. alt and battery was checked and there great. it has a maf code, so I unplug the maf and still get the same misfiring. maf was fine be4 i tried cleaning it, now it throws the code. it had misfiring be4 i clean it also. next problem is it stutters and misses if i go wot in 4 or 5 gear and the batt light flashes it doesn't throw a misfire code. Also if I am idling and i floor it, it stutters and misses at lower rpm rage and then is fine at higher rpm range. i replaced plugs and gapped em right, i did a power balance test and the coils all are firing so is the injectors. I don't got vag but i do got a good obd2 scanner i was looking at the data wen car was off and i seen that if i floor it the tps only reads 77.7% . Also my timing says its 12 degrees and idle fuel pressure is fine i checked with a gauge. Pretty much misfiring with no codes thrown and flashing battery light.
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