Passat (B6) :: Bad Odor In The Mornings Intermittently - How To Fix It
Apr 17, 2010
I had this issue with my car when I had just purchased it almost 4.5 years ago. I had this bad odor in the car in the mornings. The dealer had treated the AC system and had told me that VWOA only pays once for that treatment and that I will have to pay myself if it returns or needs to be done again. Even if I drive and park the car and return after an hour or more, the odor comes back.
I have an even worst smell in the car now. It started a couple of days ago. It goes away once I start moving the car or turn on th AC. The dealer had indicated that it was due to the AC not running frequently. Now I have the AC running most of the time (S. FLorida heat) and had also replaced my cabin filter approx 5000 miles ago.
Any solution for this. Anything I can try myself. I know a few of you had this issue. Is there anything that you did yourself to fix it!
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Co-Worker's '03 Jetta TDI
Blower works intermittently. Sometimes all speeds will work. Sometimes only on high. Sometimes on all speeds but at a slower speed than normal. Sometimes it doesn't work on any speed.
Switch doesn't bind, blower motor doesn't make any unusual noises and I don't think it is the blower resistor. He did notice a strange odor coming from the vents the other day and, it appears that the foam on the blend door is starting to disintegrate.
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I just bought a 2005 passat wagon 4motion 1.8t to haul the dogs and future kid around in. Car has extremely low miles (23k) and is pretty much in perfect condition. Love everything about it, except...
It seems to have a bit of trouble starting on chilly mornings (not cold yet, maybe 60f?). It will start, but it fires up and then seems to get choked up to the point of almost dying sometimes, runs a little rough for a minute or so with a throaty exhaust sound and then it perks up and runs fine. I've noticed it tends to be running at a slightly higher RPM when it's running poorly in those first few minutes, and then it drops to normal.
When we bought the car, I quickly realized the temp gauge wasn't working. It turned out to be the temp sensor (seems to be a common problem) and I hoped it would solve the rough start, but it did not.
What could be causing this? We're starting to approach fall/winter, and if it's doing this now I can only imagine what it's going to do in November. I'd like to get this sorted as soon as possible, even though it's not a show stopper right this minute.
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I have a 1.8 02 Passat. On cold mornings (25 or below) the brakes are extremely hard. When it warms up outside they are fine. No one seems to know the problem.
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Ok, I have owned my 02 Passat with the 30V 2.8L V6 since may. I got it with 115K and now its just under 129K I had the timing belt done at Jimmy's in Provo UT at 126K and up until then the engine ran great. Since the belt was replaced <along with the water pump and such> . The car has a tendency to feel like its idling rough, and when you start it up first thing on a cold morning it sounds like the valves are rattling. It does this for a brief second then goes away until the next time you start it in the cold morning. It wont do this if its warm outside, or after you start it previously that day. So far I have replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum 2 prong plugs, and replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump when it dead on me without warning about 2 months ago.
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Had a bad smell coming from the a/c vents when you first turn it on. Goes away after a couple minutes but it stinks... My passat still under warranty, wanna be able to tell them what's wrong when I take it in.
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Car: 02 Passat GLX V6 4motion
Mileage: 99k
Just recently bought this car (3 months ago) and I have had lots of issue with it already. I topped off the tank that same week and it started to leak gas right under the gas tank (driver side in front of the rear wheel).
No engine light came on. It leaked for couple of days for about an hour after I park the car then it would stop until I drive again. It did that for couple of days until the gas level went down to 2/3 then it stopped. Since then I stopped topping it off and it hasn't leaked.
However I always smell gas even when its not leaking. When I go around the car the odor comes from right in front of the rear wheel (driver side).
Prior History: This car was rear ended before and fixed up by the prior owner. The seller told me that he had recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator that week.
I took it to the mechanic and had them do a smoke test. They couldn't pin point the leak so they recommended replacing the entire fuel tank for $1800. I walked away and thought I would just keep the fuel level low and keep driving. However the gas smell really bothers me because the car is parked in the garage and the gas odor builds up to unbearable condition.
What could cause this issue? Does this has anything to do with fuel pressure regulator that was replaced? Anything to do with fuel pump because of the rear end accident or loose seal in that area? Do you think it is necessary to replace the whole tank for this?
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MY 2002 Passat 4motion is experiencing a strong gas odor, noticeable both inside the cabin and outside of the vehicle. Odor is noticeably stronger with a tank that has just been filled to full. I see that VW had a recall for 4motion Passats manufactured between 4/1997 and 8/2002. Recall notes, a fuel tank ventilation valve (4motion only) that can leak due to fracture.
I was in for the heat shield repair about 8 months ago which is covered under the same recall (campaign number 08V156000 - VWOA recall R5, but don't know if the VW tech did anything to check on the fuel ventilation valve.
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I got a friend 1999 Passat 1.8L with 160K miles. Every now and then it won't fire. (turns and turns but won't crank) notices odor of gas. Go away for 10-30mins car starts just fine. The car runs great! turbo still kicks in and pulls hard.
I have checked :
-fuel pressure = good (I check it a while back and I don't remember the numbers but they were good)
-voltage at the fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-for leaks in the intake (none found)
-voltage at the battery
I have replaced :
-Fuel filter
-Sparkplugs (NGK's)
-Air filter (his old one looked like it hasn't been changed in 25K miles )
-all vacuum hoses
The only thing that is broken is the check valve (located right between the air box and firewall on the passenger side) I plugged it for now. (yes it is throwing a code for the evap system but that is the only one). I don't know what else to check and I haven't seen any other common problems on the net that are related. Note the timing belt does need to be replaced. he's saving up for a timing belt kit.
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My 08 B6 wagon has a very foul odor emanating from the HVAC system. It started after my wife washed the windshield with vinegar to get rid of some scaling from the bizarre water we have here. She thought the smell was from some of the vinegar running off the windshield. Well, that was several months ago and the smell is no better. Just recently, the temps have been down enough to turn off the AC switch and the smell is even worse.
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I have a 2000 vw 2.8 v6.
I got it back in February and it ran great up until now. A couple months ago while driving home my cel started flashing and right when the light came on I could immediately feel an immense loss in power and when I got to a red light it would shake like mofo. Gettin up to speed was suddenly a huge problem and the car would make a strange noise and I could smell a strong odor of gas and slight oil. I have a valve cover gasket leak that I paid 300 bucks to replace but after a week I realized it's still leaking oil so that 300 bucks just went out the window. The sluggish performance and cel went away the next time I drove the car and it ran awesome for over a month till one day while I was on my way home from grabbing some lunch it all of a sudden started happening again. Sluggish performance, smell of gas and slight oil, wouldn't get up to speed.
I brought it to my local vw dealership to have it looked at yesterday figuring that they'd be able to tell me exactly what was going wrong. I got a call early this morning saying that the oil leak in my valve covers are causing my coil pack to short out and foul my plugs and wires and then told me it was going to cost 1,700 bucks with all the parts and labor. I'm not very mechanically inclined when it comes to vehicles so it's not like I can do the work myself but my main question is, how can the oil cause the coil pack to short out seeing that oil is not conductive and some cars actually use oil to cool the packs down. Is that a legitimate diagnosis or is the dealership mechanic Actually right or is he just getting creative trying to squeeze some money out of me.
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I have a 2014 TDI with 86,000 miles on it. Several weeks ago I had the heater core changed and since then the car has ran hot twice when what appears to be a regen. The heat has stopped working again. When it is running hot, I can smell a strong odor of ammonia. It does not run hot all the time. Last time it ran hot, I felt the radiator and it was not hot all over. The passenger side hose was not hot and the top of the radiator was not hot. I have taken it to the dealership several times.
At first they said that they thought that the thermostat needed changing. I declined and said that it would run hot all the time with a bad thermostat. The last time I brought it to the dealer - I stated that I think the radiator is clogged. Now they are indicating that they want to change the radiator, thermostat, heater core (again), and flush the system. The system has been pressure tested and no leaks have been found. The tech indicated that it ran hot while in the shop with the A/C on and it boiled over.
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I know this has been covered many times before but I know how to remedy the problem. My question is that I have an 09 which is still under warranty, is replacing the cabin filter/charcoal filter due to bacterial odor covered under my bumper to bumper warranty? I found some posts where people said it was but I want to double check before i waste time that I don't have with the dealer since I've been really busy with school.
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Mornings are cooler now in connecticut. I mention that at cold start my Prius C idles pretty rough.
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So I have been trying to get all the issues fixed on this car, and I think I'm getting close. I just gave the car a tune up, minus a new coil pack. (2.0 engine) I've fixed the broken hose on the secondary air pump and all my error codes appear to be gone. However, when I start my car on humid mornings, the car struggles to stay running. Once the car is up to a certain temperature, the car has no problems. But while it is cool and struggling to run, the check engine light will come on and flash. I heard that it could be from a crack in the coil pack that allows moisture to come in. Does that sound right? I would hate to put a new coil pack if I don't need it yet.
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my 2003 ion saturn will not start on cold mornings. after i wait a couple of minutes or more it will start. what is the problem. it has 97,000 miless on it.
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2004 3 series BMW... When the temperature drops below around 40F, my daughter's car does not want to move in forward or reverse for the first few minutes. I watched her rev it up to 5000 RPM to get it to move the other morning. I explained how bad that is for the engine and asked her to be patient and let the car idle for a few minutes to warm up the transmission before starting out.
Two or three blocks down the street, after it has warmed a bit, the transmission engages briskly at the touch of the throttle and shifts normally with no unusual slippage.
I first noticed this after the last transmission fluid change. I suspected the wrong fluid had been put in it, and took it back to the BMW specialty shop that changed the fluid. The shop assured me that it contains the correct fluid and tried to tell me that there is nothing wrong with the transmission because the transmission computer is not storing any codes, and it worked perfectly when they drove it. Obviously 5000 RPM to move on a cold morning is not right.
Should I change the fluid again and see if it workss? I am hesitant because that full synthetic transmission fluid is expensive. Could a temperature sensor that says it is warm when the transmission is actually cold cause this problem?
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My 04 passat 1.8t is overheating intermittently when it is hot outside, I have replace waterpump, thermostat and fan clutch recently what else should I be looking at...
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I have a 2002 1.8t. The headlights have been going off and on intermittently for a little while now. I thought I fixed the drivers side but I guess I did not. It seemed there was a problem with the headlight socket so I took it apart and put electrical tape around the worn areas and put it back. It held up ok for a little while but would continue to go out. If I wiggle it comes back on. Then the passenger side started doing the same thing. I am wondering if a new wiring harness will fix the problem or could the problem be beyond that.
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I recently purchased a 2000 1.8T passat that had the engine rebuilt apprx. 16K mi. ago (didn't find out until after I bought the car). After doing an oil change, they day I brought it home, and using a synthetic (Mobil-1 5w-30) the oil light started to come on intermittently. I took it to the shop and had the oil pump replaced, and a couple of day's later it came on again. I took it back to the shop and had the oil pressure sending unit replaced and a day later it came on again. When the light comes on it only stays on for about 5 seconds and goes out. I feel like I'm chasing a ghost. The engine is not making any noise and seems to run o.k.
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I'm having trouble getting my 2002 vw passat 1.8 started. it cranks over no problem but, it's not getting fuel or spark. the fuel pump relay clicks when it cranks but no fuel comes out of the line I disconected. the car has been sitting for about 2 months with a dead battery but it ran fine before that. I have checked all the fuses and tested the fuel pump relay with a 9v. the fuel gauge is working but the radio doesn't turn on(stock monsoon head unit) the car has 122k on it and I am completly stumped, I'm going to drop the tank tomorrow to see if it is the fuel pump.
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