Passat (B6) :: Backfire After Doing A Hard Pull In 3rd But Never In 2nd
Jan 7, 2009
Wanted to ask B6 owners first, from time to time I hear what I think is a backfire after doing a hard pull in 3rd but never in 2nd. Now I'm not sure its a backfire but after I shift to 4th I hear a small pop from the back of the wagon. Don't know if this will happen in 4th after a pull, have not had enough road or balls to do this. ( In Oregon you get a huge ticket and license pulled for 30 days for anything over 100.) Everything runs fine, I only have the Neuspeed intake for the autos and thats it. Any thoughts you B6 owners have B4 I go to the 2.0 fsi page would be great. Here are some pics from the big snow storm we had here in Portland back during xmas. The Thule chains worked great when I was not high centered.
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When I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
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On my wife's '06 Elantra, the hand brake is very hard to pull up, barely getting one click from it. I've done some looking around and have not been able to find a solution to the problem.
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Last night it was just below freezing and the roads were a little damp so I figured I'd see at what point ESP would kick in on a hard 2nd gear pull. Sure enough power cuts off at around 4000-4500 rpm.
Turn "off" ESP, try another hard 2nd gear pull expecting some nice tire squeal but I get nothing and obviously still no traction from 4500-6000 rpm. Was my clutch slipping? Is ESP capable of knowing when the clutch is slipping (I would think it had nothing to do with it)? Maybe it was just damp enough that the rubber was spinning in one place but it wasn't making any/limited amount of noise?
Car: GTI, Manual, Stage 1, Winter Tires.
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If I brake hard a dozen times, 8 or 9 will be normal, a couple times it will pull to the right but as long as your hands are on the wheel you can barely tell, and maybe once it will pull really hard. I have Hawk super duty pads and Ebc rotors with less than 5k on them and I just replaced the front calipers and hardware because I thought that was the problem.
It's not even consistent. Could possibly be rear calipers (rear also has new Hawk pads and Ebc rotors with less than 3k on them) but I don't think it would pull that hard. Tire pressure is even between sides btw.
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I have to pull up really hard to get the parking brake to hold. If I'm on a hill forget it, I yank up really hard and then leave it in gear just in case. I have installed new cables and pads. I have also have the lever adjusted so it starts to catch when you pull it up about 2-3 inches. I've never driven another mk4 so I don't have any other reference to how well the parking brake should hold but I would think that I wouldn't have to pull up this hard to get it to habe any real holding power.
Any other vehicle I've driven with a hand brake I could easily lock up the rear tires. I'm lucky to get mine to lock while pulling so hard I think I'm going to break something. I've searched around and have only come up with threads about replacing cables and adjusting the lever. I couldn't find anything like the problem I'm having. Is this normal operation for a mk4 or is there something wrong with my calipers that needs to be addressed? My regular brakes work fine and the parking brake arms on the calipers allear to be functioning properly. They contract then spring back on their own
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Golf 2.0L 5 speed manual. Over the last 10,000 miles a problem started where on the highway in 5th gear, if i try to speed up by putting the pedal down, the steering wheel moves itself to the left and the car steers to the left. The wheel returns to the original position when i let off of the gas. its scary at high speeds and has become so bad that I can feel it accelerating at low speeds too.
The alignment is off and the steering wheel slightly to the right. when I put the gas down and it goes perfectly straight and when i release it goes back to the right. it has 126,000 miles on it. I know it needs tires, shocks and an alignment job but don't think that those factors are causing my problem. Could it be the motor mounts?
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I have a 1.8T with 152kmiles
Recently, both the coolant reservoir 'Y' connector and the driver side coolant flange cracked and I was shooting G12 all over the engine. I've replaced both of the parts and the coolant temp sensor with a "green top". Reservoir was refilled with the proper ratio of G12 to distilled water, ran for a bit and topped off accordingly.
This morning I started my drive to work and the engine temp was at 0 for a minute or so and started to climb slowly to 190. It stayed at 190 until I took the exit to the highway and the temp slowly started to rise while I was at 60mph. I immediately turned around and went back home with the heat cranked to high. With the heat on, the engine temp would slowly go down but then rise again if I, A. turned the heat off or B. made a hard pull up to ~55+mph.
I popped the hood and the coolant was not boiling and I couldn't see/smell/hear any leak. could this be the thermostat or is this a water pump issue? I plan on taking the thermostat off and checking the pump empellars for any shards. I'm not sure but I do believe the water pump was replaced by my parents while I was on deployment.
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I have a 2006 that shuts off in a hard pull, if I wait 3 minutes it starts again. I hooked up my scan tool and when it dies and I crank it it only builds 200psi oil pressure, let it sit it builds enough pressure to run fine. If I dont push it over 3500psi for more than minute it wont die pull a hill it dies again. Is it the hpop or an o-ring.
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OK about 3 months ago I bought my first vw, a 99 Passat 1.8t. Car was great. Only problem at the time was a loud backfire while down shifting no clue on y either. Let me say this is my first turboed car too. Anyway after about 2-3 days my cel came on. I threw my scanner on it and got evap leak. I filled her up right after that and smelled real bad gas. Found a screw hole in the trunk patched it cleared the code an she ran great again. Well for a few days now after every fill up I have to keep my foot on the throttle or it stalls out. Keep getting same code. Also when I go to jump on it it'll like studdar an hesitate before going. No more gas smell either. The kid I bought her from did some work an I'm getting 15lbs of boost but at times will jump to 17-18 lbs. I have no problem doing the work to get just need some guidance on what to do. I've been told change charcoal canister, fuel filter charcoal canister purge valve, I guess there's 2 cause I was told to change both. I love this car, this is the best and my favorite car I've ever had. J wanna get her all nice and healthy.
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I'm looking at purchasing a 2003 F-350 from a Ford Dealer, Drove the Vehicle last night and the Gear shiftier was very tight and hard to pull down. Is this a real concern? The Sales guys said its better to be stiff rather than sloppy. But they will say anything, right. The vehicle is a deal and so I'm looking to find out why.
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Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
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Looking for a good diagram of the complete vacuum system on the AEB 1.8t 99 passat. I am throwing a 1136 code which is indicated as a "Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering". I recently finished a complete rebuild and engine is finally back in but running in limp mode. During the rebuild, I used mobil 1 synthetic as an assembly lube for all internal components including valve train.
I immediately wet fouled O2 sensors and spark plugs. After repeated removal and cleaning for plugs and O2 sensors i have progressed beyond seeing the "wet" fouling but plugs are still very rich, black in color but dry. Engine starts and runs at idle(lumpy) consistently and will run for as much as 5 minutes but very rich. If i rev engine to 3000-3500 rpm it will "POP" or backfire and immediately stall.
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I got my Passat about 1 month ago, and I have this pull to the right. Which is annoying, as I drive quite a bit on the highway.
At the dealer, they "fixed" it by moving the tires around and matching tires with the same side wall rigidity. I got my car back, and it's still pulling to the right.
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I just replaced my steering rack and now I have a strong pull to the right when boost come in.
I am gettin an alignment this week but could an aligned problem cause this?
I transferred my old tie rod ends over to the new set up. They are pretty new.
It's a very similar feeling to when I had a bad control arm bushing. I just replaced a lot if the front end stuff though and this was not happening before the install.
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The problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
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My daughter accidentally pulled the emergency latch and now I can't get my trunk to close. I tried pushing the handle back into place to no avail... searched the archives and didn't find anything there either. What I am doing wrong, aside from leaving my 10 year old in charge of closing the trunk??
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As the title says.... it slipped on a first gear pull and then another time on the highway on the on ramp in high RPM in second....
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2005 2.OT ... Our car showed an engine light last night and when doing heavy acceleration, starts to pull or hesitate. Do not occurs when accelerating slowly, all day at dealer and they said that might be cam wear or some pressure pump. They are taking the engine covers to find out what is the issue. Cam repair and oil change. It drives smoother and no longer hard down shifting....
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How do I remove the trim that's around the pull handle and the lock/unlock button? Not the trim by your belly that has window buttons but the ones that are near your side mirrors. Mine are scuffed to poop and I would like to replace the trim and the lock/unlock buttons.
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