Passat (B6) :: Auto Gearbox Disengage Due To Excessive Torque
Sep 26, 2009
I just heard a dyno operator explain a dip in torque from 1500-2500 rpm as being that the auto box disengages due to excessive torque to prevent damage.
this is for a chipped passat B6 1.8TSI (I know guys in the US dont have this engine) but hardware nonetheless should be similar is there such a feature for the B6 autobox to disengage or pull power in order to protect itseld due to excessive torque?
2ndly, does a dyno even read accurately WOT from 1500-2500 rpm?
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After a lot of reading and troubleshooting, I have come to know that it takes vacuum to engage and vacuum to disengage the automatic locking hubs on the Ford F series and Excursion. Most indications is that ~ 15" hg is required to engage and approximately half that much to disengage them. The mechanism that either engages or disengages them acts similarly to a ball point pen. The full amount of vacuum causes the mechanism to travel to it's limit, where the hub is engaged, whereas half the amount of vacuum applied only causes the mechanism to travel to its midpoint, which is where is should be for disengagement.
In my case, I have tested for vacuum leaks, none are present. I have installed new Ford OEM hub assemblies, a new locking hub solenoid and have tested the function of my vacuum pump. It draws about 13.5" hg of vacuum on the system. I do not have any issues with HVAC controls in the cabin of the truck. When installing the new hubs, I ensured that they are unlocked, the inner spline assy spins freely and once installed, the wheel shaft spins freely by hand. When I shift to 4WD on the dash, the hubs engage and all is well.
Problem I am having is when I shift back to 2WD, the hubs remain locked. I can tell as the wheel shafts are not able to be spun freely by hand. I have tried backing the vehicle, etc. No luck. Furthermore, when monitoring vacuum while engaging and disengaging 4WD, I can see that the full vacuum (~13,5") is applied when engaging. What concerns me is that only 3.5 - 4.0" hg is applied when disengaging. This is certainly not enough to operate the mechanism to the point of disengaging the hubs.
I have considered replacing the vacuum pump as I am only getting 13.5" hg of vacuum, however, when I research the replacement part, many have indicated that a new one only draws about that much, so I do not see the value in replacement.
Have any of you dealt with the same or similar problem and if so, what was your resolution?
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Before taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
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My 07 AT 2.0 has a weird problem - when auto downshifting after a long drive at highways speeds, the whole car thuds. This happens after driving about 20 miles or so at 60MPH+. 5 or 10 miles are not a problem.
What happens is that when it slips down into 2nd, it sounds like something jams (no grinding). The force/feeling is similar to running into something at a slow speed - like bumping a car while parking.
If I slip into Tip and downshift manually, it doesn't happen. Outside of this the car has 22K miles and drives great.
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Ok so i get off work and i go to my car, its around 6ish and its reading 36 degrees fahrenheit. On start up the car beeps and the parking brake wont disengage...tried pressing the button a couple times but nothing. So i turn it off and start it again...nothing. Then finally turn it off, let it sit till all the interior lights come off. Turn it on and lo and behold it works! At an ambient air temp of 36 degrees, is it possible that rotors and pads are frozen? Also could it be that the cold temperature is freezing the brake lines? Also the car was parked so that the wind was perpendicular to the brakes. So like a T with the long part being the wind!
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I went to go drive my 05 passat tdi this morning when I stepped on the brake an tried to put into gear, the automatic shift lock does not go off and i could not get it into gear, also the emission, ESP, and ABS light all came on. I called the dealer I bought it from and he gave me a little advice, he told me to pump the break several times and I should be able to get it into gear. It worked but, the ASL light by the shifter didn't go off and when i drove it around the block it felt like it was still not running right. It have high RPMs and little MPH, it was running fine the day before, when I drove it yesterday we were getting alot of rain (3" in 24hr) is this something that could have affected the motor in any way.....
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owner of a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon, 6 spd manual, 32k km's. (leased) I'm having repeated persistent parking brake failures (won't engage, or won't disengage).
-About two months ago the parking brake would not disengage, error message on the MFD, yellow warning light and warning tone. Called roadside, finally got it disengaged by removing one terminal from the battery. Took it straight to the dealership, they "fixed" it by resetting the computer.
- The next day I have auto hold engaged, parking brake did not disengage when I turned the car back on. Had to turn engine on/off several times before it disengaged.
- Took it to the dealership again, had to get a rental car over a weekend while they diagnosed the problem. This time they changed some wiring and replaced the parking brake button.
- Next day the parking brake engaged ok but wouldn't disengage. Same routine on/off/on/off to get it to disengage.
- Back to the dealership again, they decided to replace the brake control module but didnt have stock.
- Last week I took the car back in (4th trip for this issue), they replaced the module and said it was fixed. Next day my wife got stuck in a parking lot with the parking brake stuck on.
- Called the dealership last friday and asked them to come pick it up this time, as my wife and I are sick of the inconvenience of this issue. (we share the car, both work, and also have a child's daycare to schedule around)
The problem is intermittent but not difficult to cause a fault. Can be caused when engaging, disengaging, or when the PB kicks in from auto hold when turning the car off. I try not to use it, but sometimes is necessary (parking on hills etc).
The dealership doesnt seem to know the problem and are just throwing parts at it. What recourse do I have for repeated problems? The manual recommends using this parking brake EVERY time the car is parked, so I don't think it's too much to ask to have it working properly.
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My W8 has a noise problem that's getting worse. I've had the tires replaced and had the dealer look at it. My dealer thought the rear rims were bent, but the noise definitely comes from the front end - I'm pretty sure the passenger side. What this could be? I'm thinking bearings but when I jacked the car up there was no play in either front wheel. Had the tires rotated and the noise didn't move.
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My 2008 Passat vibrates excessively anytime I am accelerating once above 40mph. Done balancing severally and bought new tyres yet problem is not abating. What else can I do?
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Feel there is excessive road noise on the highway? (not wind noise)
Seems as though it can be worse depending on the surface. Comparing the B7 to the wife's Q5 is painful. Heck, even my MKVI GTI was silent compared to this. What do you all is a good fix?
Tires? If so, what would be a good upgrade? The P Zero Neros on the GTI seemed pretty good. I'm new to car tires. Long time Jeeper. Dynamite under all carpet?
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During my 35 years of experience as a production line and service engineer in the aerospace industry, it was my job to determine the least expensive and easiest foolproof way to perform any production and service operation.
Many readers here have related their experience with the oil filter housing and their difficulty with its removal and reinstallation with the need of a torque wrench to correctly tighten it. Most all technical tightening of screw systems have gone to the "angular torque method," as it is more accurate than the standard torque wrench.
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2007 3.6 Wagon Sport. My wife has the 18" Samarklan wheels and automatic transmission. We have complained to the dealer since the beginning with only the "you need new tires" response. Well we got new tires last year and the noise was the same. I've had 18" on my old '00 S4 and current '00 A8 with nothing near this amount of noise.
The sound is most like a groan and doesn't seem to be coming from the engine. It's seem most noticeable at lower speeds coming/coasting to a stop, but does not seem to vary with or without braking. It doesn't seem to vary based on turning either.
I don't ride in her car much, but am always shocked how loud it is when I do, as it's so dramatically louder. Also the HVAC 'percolates' constantly which is generally only noticeable at idle. This is a small, secondary concern. I everyone's Passat really this loud?
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Last week when we were in the single digits outside my 3.6 SE took about 15-20 sec of cranking to start (garage kept). Then the check engine light came on (2nd time in 10 months). I drive a lot (80 miles a day), and have put 19,900 miles on since I purchased it in March of 2012. The light turned off after three cycles, but I just so happen to have my 20,000 mile service scheduled so I took the car in. The hard start still is happening every few start ups.
The dealer told me the hard start issues I have been experiencing was due to excessive carbon build up on the valves. The dealer said they haven't seen many "high mileage" 2012 3.6 come through, so they could not tell me if this is common.
I use Shell 93 octane for every fill up. Is there something else I should be doing to prevent this carbon build up? Any others seen this with their higher mileage 2012 3.6? BTW they also had to replace the right rear control arm due to one of the bushings being worn out!
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Getting stupid amount of engine heat on legs? I feel like I'm straddling the manifold sometimes.
Only thing I can think of is that I've got a large hole in a grommet or something?
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I'm going to work with my cousin change his oil pan on his 2002 passat 1.8T and I would like to know what torque the screws from the oil pan should be? Is the anything specific that I must know about doing this? Anything to make the job easier, faster and to not make mistakes.
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What are the correct torque settings for oil drain plug, oil filter and spark plugs on a 2.0 FSI engine?
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First off let me say I love my TDi for everything I bought it for...fuel economy, space, ride comfort.
I've noticed the wind noise before but had never taken a drive more than 30 minutes.I just took my first 300 mile road trip and REALLY noticed the EXCESSIVE wind noise.
I traded a 2010 GTI and its weather stripping was more full and produced a much better closed door seal and I never once had problems with wind noise in the 2 years that I owned.
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About 5K miles after putting on 18x8.5 rims with 235-40 tires noted bad reverberating droning tire noise and noticed stairstep pattern of excessive wear on inside tread blocks, equal on all 4 wheels. Is this just from going from OEM ET47 to ET35? Is camber adjustment indicated and is camber adjustable also on the rear wheels? (Of course, noise and reverberation gone when OEM wheels put back on)
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My torque converter is on the way out so I need to look for a new one. I'm pretty new at the transmission thing but I was told by my indy that my torque converter is on the way out. My problem is that I can't find the part number for my torque converter. I have a 2000 1.8t tip ATW.
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As the title implies I need the part # for the OEM VW Stretch bolt that holds the Torque Arm insert in place. I've had the mount on my car for a few months now and I've grown tired of it.
I re-used the OEM bolt the first time and I think I'm better off replacing it as it may not be wise to unbolt it and re-torque it for a third time. Looking for the part # for the stretch bolt? I believe it's 21mm.
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Going to replace brake lines tomorrow and would like to confirm the torque spec on the actual banjo bolt as not to break them but also don't want to leave them too loose...
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