Passat (B6) :: Accelerating Makes AC More Cold Than Cruising On Normal Speed
Jun 21, 2008
Its peak summer here and temperatures are around 50c. Recently I am experiencing a strange AC behavior! While driving, AC is blowing very cold air but while stationary air get little less cold and it feels sweaty... Also accelerating car makes AC more cold than cruising on normal speed...
I am wondering what it could be.... I had golf IV and never experienced it even it even parked under 50c summer afternoon.... Two weeks back, they have replaced my AC compressor valve... It could be a fan?
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I have a 2000 Saturn sl2 (automatic 85,000 miles) and recently, I can feel the momentum of the car stop for a split second. The hesitation isn't occurring when the transmission is shifting between gears but, when I'm just at a normal speed or accelerating. The fluid is new and at the right level and there's no change in the RPMs (it doesn't rev up or drop like I would expect) and no weird noises.
This is my fourth Saturn SL and I love em but, I have a feeling that this car has had a more interesting life that the carfax printout indicated. Is carfax reliable?
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2011 SE leased in December 2010. I Now have 14,000 miles and my trans has started to slip.
First slip was yesterday on a a fully warmed motor while I was accelerating at a normal rate of speed. I am guessing the car was in 2nd gear (25mph) and the rpms shot all the way up to redline. I let off the gas, coasted for a few seconds and the trans engaged the gear and I kept driving. No cel
Today the same thing happened under the same conditions but this time when the trans re-engaged the gear, the car jerked forward pretty violently.
About 15 minutes later this happened again but at highway speeds (65mph) while cruising. Again, violent jerk and a thump when the trans caught the gear.
After all this I have no CEL. I know if I bring the truck to the dealer they are going to give me the old, "we cant reproduce the problem." Once the trans starts to slip like this the damage has already been done and its just a matter of time before I am stranded on the the side of the road.
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I took my car to the car wash and they seemed to take longer to vacuum/wash it and while driving it away, I noticed something was off. It seems like the engine is louder than normal. Before when starting the car, it would take 30 seconds to a minute before the battery/engine would come on. Then while accelerating to about 25-35 mph, then the engine would come into gear. When going on the freeway, if accelerating at a quick speed it would sound really loud. Now, it seems like instead of silent, quiet, a little louder, louder and loudest - it's moved to the next level. When starting the car, the engine starts right away and when driving away (at less than 25 mph), the engine sound like I am on the freeway and when I'm on the freeway it sound like I'm trying to gun the engine. I don't know what it could be.
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My 2003 Xterra has been a great car. Few problems until last year I had to have the timing belt replaced (at 120,000 miles no biggie), the day that I got back from Iraq. Well everything has been great since then until a couple of weeks ago I started noticing some acceleration problems. When I press on the accelerator, especially when the car is cold, it will rev, pause, then resume normal accleration. I would like to point out that the whole car pauses, not just the reving. Mechanics seemed stumped and I would rather know what to tell them to do rather than let them dig around and charge me a bunch.
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Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
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Not sure if normal or a malfunction. Twice over the winter here in MN I have been accelerating and when I hit a icy patch the car made a loud thump/clunk noise loud enough to make be think something broke or that I ran over something like an ice block.
I had it looked at by the dealer and everything is suppose to be working normal. I tried to replicate ite on some ice but the traction control kicks in like normal with the flashing and all. I don't normally accelerate hard so it's rare I get traction control to activate.
Car is TDI SE
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Just curious. Are my RPM's running high? Currently I'm running 3000 rpm's at 76 mph. Is that high? Someone told me it was. (My speedometer shows I'm running 80mph but both my gps show 76mph, stock tires, 1.8T). Pretty sure I'm in range.
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01 Passat v6 150K tiptronic. When cold, the tranny makes an occasional grinding noise however when at operating temp it runs fine with no slippage. Changed the fluid/filter and added lucas treatment. It worked a little but my mech said to warm up the car before driving. Might be the torque converter?
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Just had this happen to me yesterday and cant figure it out. Cruising at normal speeds and shifting into 5th gear at about 2000 rpm. when to apply throttle and the car chocked or slipped then regained power. Almost like it went into limp mode for a second or traction control kicked in. Im not sure what it could be.
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So I put in a Neuspeed torque arm insert, and that has worked with shifting from 1st to 2nd when accelerating hard. But in my '96 Jetta M5 speed I could throw the shifter around into any gear (except 1st if going fast) at any speed.
With the Passat what I find is that I while I can move quickly to a particular gate, I have to enter the gate slowly. I am thinking this is due to having 6 speeds (narrower gates to fit in same space so I have to be more precise), but then I wonder.
When shifting normally, it is very smooth, it is just when I try to shift fast that I notice this. And it happens even when I am shifing fast "but not" accelerating and the engine is not under load. So this happens when I try to downshift from 6th (at 2,000 rpm) to 5th/4th. Notice this when I am doing 50-60 in 6th and then try to quickly drop into a lower gear to get through a yellow light before it changes.
The solution has been to shift fast to the gate and then slowly push it in, but I still have the old reflexs from the Jetta were it was one fast movement.
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Our 2008 2.0T Variant with 70K miles runs fine, except while running fully warmed up on the highway. Then, at cruising speed, the engine shudders if you try anything more than gentle acceleration. If you push deliberately on the gas at about 1,500 rpm, the engine shudders, fails to accelerate, and the MIL flashes. This has been going on for a few months.
Wifey is about to go on a road trip and, although she's adjusted to this behavior, I don't wanted her stranded somewhere. The engine is throwing code P0301 (got it read at AutoZone), Cylinder 1 Misfire.
I'm wondering why it only misfires under these conditions, and not, say, while accelerating off the line or while idling.
Any tips? I've already put a bottle of Techron through the tank. Car has had all recall/service bulletin work done, which as I remember included a coil pack recall a few years ago.
I wonder if getting the car into the stealership before her trip is a "must." (I don't have my own scanning tool in order to sequentially troubleshoot coil packs. I can at least check plug wiring.
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I have been reading about some folks are having those vibration at certain speeds... Recently I also started noticing some strange vibrations... It happens when I am accelrating and driving on curved road at speed 100KM and up... I still cannot detect the source of these vibration as sometime it feels from steeing column or front suspension frame... All I can say its really annoying. Also, mechtronics valve body soon will be replaced as it is driving my DSG really insane.
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At least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
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Just a quick question but is it normal for the ICP voltage (ICV) to jump around a lot at idle or while cruising or accelerating? Started watching this pid and not sure what's normal and what's not.
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I did a search and what I saw all had to do with noise at startup.Mine is during cruising. I have a 2007 Sonata 4 cylinder with 112K miles. Within the last few months it began making a slight chattering noise when I accelerate and when cruising. It's worst around 55mph. When I let off, it almost goes away, but is loudest when I just am feathering the pedal to maintain speed.
If I put the pedal down a little more and accelerate, it is not loud, but still faintly there. At first I thought it was a tapping sound, but I've let some of my friends listen and its more like a clattering, metal rattling, or vibration perhaps. Its hard to describe. A week ago I had the check engine light come on with a "P0011 Hyundai - 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1".
I changed the oil and took it into a local shop and they cleared the code/light and checked things out (the light hasn't reappeared). I had them take off the valve cover and make sure the top end was not making the noise. It seemed fine to them. They suggested I take it to the dealer for further diagnosis. I have not yet. It does not make noise during start up. If I have time I will upload a audio recording later. What may be making the noise? It seemed to get a little louder after the latest oil change, but that's probably me being more sensitive to the problem.
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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I bought my 2012 Prius v with 99,000 miles. It started running rough at around 110,000. Time for new spark plugs.
I installed new OEM plugs. Still rough. New ignition coils, Still rough. My car was shaking & jerking at any cruising speed, fast or slow. It seemed to have trouble switching between the ICE (engine) and electric motor. It made a continuous click click click noise at slow speeds. I would get up to speed and let off the gas a little and it would start going chug, chug, chug until I gave more gas. I hated driving my car. The shaking was giving me a headache. I investigated every posibility; Motor mounts, ECU, trans, changed the trans fluid, cleaned the EGR tube, CV shafts, torque limiter, VVT, sluging, tried fuel injector cleaner. I took it to the dealer. They said there was a misfire on #4 cylinder. I told them the ignition was all new but the #4 spark plug was discolored when I replaced it the second time. The mechanic said "That's it! It must be the fuel injector!" New injector installed, $488, still ran rough, still the chug chug chug and click click click. A few days ago, it ran so bad and so weak, it used up all the battery power and could barely stay running. I stopped for gas. I thought " maybe it's the EGR. I should just unplug it." BINGO !! It runs great !!!!! Smooth !!!!!! Better gas mileage. No chugging! No clicking!
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Our FWD Santa Fe Limited had a very noticeable vibration that started around 60mph. Oddly, the vibration will sometimes come and go while cruising at a constant speed on the highway. We went about 30k miles before we had time to get it into the shop.
I asked them to rotate and balance the tires and the vibration was noticeably reduced...initially. Now it's back!
The car has ~65k miles. All 4 Kumho tires match and I believe are original from the factory. I have kept all tires inflated properly.
Our car has the optional 18" wheels. Is it common for these to bend? What else could be the cause here?
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I get a loud noise from the rear of my 2005 Subaru Outback, 67k miles.(No it's not my dog Pete)Starts as a WHOP, WHOP, WHOP that speeds up as the car speeds up 'til it's a loud drone at cruising speed. I thought it was older tires but changed those Saturday. No effect.
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Been having a very light vibration when cruising at speed as well as on some lower speed shifts and finally crawled under the truck today to check for drivetrain play. Other than the amazingly soft and sloppy transmission mount I noticed a TON of play in the driveshaft transmission yolk. Didn't feel like the u-joint but actually the tailshaft yolk. Dealer said on the phone they have seen this on a few of the newer trucks and it *should* be covered under the power train warranty. I have the subercab with the 1 piece aluminum driveshaft.
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