If my car get really hot, it initially blows cold air (the way it should be) for 5-10 minutes, but then it slowly starts blowing warm air until I get the full heater going for about a minute, and then it goes back to cold air, sometimes after 45 minutes the cycle repeats. This does not happen every time, this year I had it happen about 5 times.
View 4 RepliesSitting in stopped traffic for about 45 minutes and AC slowly starts blowing warmer air. Temp about 95 and very humid. Felt like AC just freezing up, but no frost on anything when I looked under hood. Hoping freon problem. About to start looking at it this morning.
View 14 RepliesIf the outside temp is cool (say below 75) the a/c works, but as soon as the day gets warm it starts blowing only warm air. I took it to the Honda dealership and they said that it was low on freon and that it needs a new clutch and a new coil. They recharged it and added dye. A week later I took it to a good independent shop that specializes in Honda repairs. They said that the compressor has power and ground and is full of freon and dye but they found a bad thermal switch and that I need a new compressor. I have no understanding of car a/c systems and thus don't know which repair sounds like the right one (if either) based on the diagnostics that have been done.
View 2 RepliesThis weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
It works great for the first 5 minutes and gets icebox cold. I can almost see my breath then the system starts blowing warm air and stays that way. I've had the coolant recharged and the shop tells me there is nothing wrong with it. Of course it works for them.
View 2 RepliesSo, I get in my car yesterday after being away for the weekend (the car has been sitting for 4 days). I get in and crank the AC and it blows warm air. My first thought was "here we go, I need a new AC compressor". I decided to pull into a driveway and I turned off the car, and then turned it on again. When I restarted the car, the AC kicked in like it is supposed to. Cold air as always. Is this a sign of the AC going out?
View 4 RepliesI know last year it was working fine, actually went pretty cold. Yesterday it was 93 degree here in Wisconsin, so thats pretty hot for us. Anyways, It's blowing warm air out, not hot or anything just pretty much outside air (the feel of it atleast) Can this be recharged with free0on or w.e it takes??
View 2 RepliesI have 07 passat.2.0 t.
My call didn't start two days ago, turned out to b dead battery. Got it replaced at local euro shop but now AC is blowing warm air. Called the shop they say, they didn't touch any wiring related to AC.
*could there be anything they forgot to hook back up that's causing this?
* any fuses I can check?
* do our cars need AC recharge?
I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
View 5 RepliesI have the 2.0L 4 cyl. engine (2001 XLS Manual 114k miles). Runs fine when cold but once the engine gets warmed up it starts idling really low. I mean so low that the RPM gauge looks like the engine is turned off, although it hasn't completely stalled (yet). The engine will kind of stumble here and there and occasionally jump up to the normal RPM. Not rough really (in fact it's hard to tell if the engine is on when it's so low) but something is obviously wrong. The check engine light is not on (assume no codes?).
Also when I'm driving I can feel that the RPM's are unstable and erratic. You know, it feels like I'm pushing and releasing the pedal very slightly even though I'm not moving it.
I replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter since they needed to be done anyway. I checked the vacuum lines and they all seem good. I replaced a few deteriorated lines even though they were holding vacuum. None of this changed anything.
So now I'm looking at more expensive stuff like the throttle position sensor, idle air bypass valve, EGR, MAF, etc. Where I should start? Is there anything that I can actually test to see if it's working or do I just need to start replacing parts until I find the problem? I guess cleaning the MAF and IAC might be starting points that don't cost anything (that IAC looks difficult to remove though).
I'm kind of thinking it's the TPS since it feels erratic at speed. However, I have never had a bad TPS cause a slow idle before. I have had it cause rough idle and such but not slow. Can it do that? What about the MAF sensor?
I have a 2006 Buick Lacrosse with the 3800 Series 3 V6. It has 140K miles. Lately on warmish starts (after shopping for example) the car will start then slowly die (not all the time but a good chunk of the time). It starts fine when truly warm, and usually when it's cold it's fine too. It runs great otherwise. It never stalls or dies otherwise.The car has new plugs and wires, a newish battery, a new air filter and I cleaned the MAF sensor. I've only had the car about 6 months, and noticed the problem in the last couple.I scanned for codes and there are none, also there is no check engine light. The car doesn't have an IAC valve or a fuel filter (I know those are common culprits)But it starts easier when cold (even -20) than when warmish. Here are two videos I took of me starting it. *note the coolant temperature gauge. It's partially warm.
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
1990 Maxima..245,000 miles...car idles fine except when sitting at stoplight for more than 15 seconds, then idle starts to drop slowly and become unstable. Then there is a separate issue: After putting the car in Park (after warming up) the car will drop/surge from approximately 1500 to 1800 rpms three times and then go back down to normal (I am guessing transmission clutch).
View 3 RepliesSometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It it the blower, the switch or the little box behind the blower? When it does work, it starts out slow and slowly gains speed.
View 1 RepliesI had to replace injector cups due to diesel in the coolant. Then I had to replace the degas bottle because it was swollen and looked like the michelen man. Then I had to replace the radiator cap (again) because I suspect that the diesel in the coolant had dissolved the seal in the radiator cap and it wouldn't hold pressure. Now I've got a bunch of new parts in there.
I parked yesterday, popped the hood -- and heard the radiator cap slowly blowing off pressure. It was the type of sound that you hear when a tire has a slow leak. I tightened the cap and the sound didn't stop. I REALLLY tightened the cap to the point where I felt as if any more tightening would cause the threads on the degas bottle to strip, and the noise lessened.
Unless I'm mistaken, a radiator cap is supposed to hold pressure to 16psi and then release all at one time, not slowly bleed off pressure with a hissing noise.
I turned on my AC... set the temp to 62 degrees (pressed AUTO and pressed the button where all the AC controls are all the same temp) ... And its blowing out warm air.. Left it running for about 5 minutes and still no sign of cold air.... Am I doing something wrong? do i not know how to turn on the AC?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 4.2. Touareg A/C is only blowing warm air. I ran Vag-com no codes. I used a gauge to check refrigerant ,the system was empty. I added refrigerant, i could see it increase and then decrease immediately. The A/C then work for a while then started blowing warm again. Used the gauge again ...empty. I then noticed clear oil on the ground. There is a drip from underneath front drivers side , looks like from a small silver canister by radiator.
I'm thinking about adding dye and looking for the leak. Is this A DIY fix or should I just take it to a mechanic. I've replaced the timing belt, brakes, drive shaft and a few other repairs. I hate taking this car to a mechanic, they always have issues.
2001 DOHC AC all of a sudden started blowing warm air when on max AC, not regular cabin air but warm air as if it is on heater mode. It has automatic climate control. I checked the charge and low side is 30psi and high side about 130 psi. Pipes in engine bay are sweating so cooling is occurring. The compressor cycles once or twice when I first turn the car on then just runs continuously. I put some charge in but it didn't do anything so I didn't want to overcharge it. I was thinking maybe stuck blend door but how would I check for that.
View 3 RepliesBrought my Touraeg in due to a/c occasionally blowing warm. Works 95% of the time. Also, while driving pops up warning light that says "Electronics: Consumers being shut off" this seems to somewhat coincide with the a/c issue. Dealer just called and said I have leaves in my system and need new pollen filter---- and not covered by warranty--- Does not make sense to me-- first we have covered parking and limited leaves in area--- also if leaves then why would it work perfectly sometimes and not others?
View 6 RepliesSo the other day my ac had a hiccup and wouldn't blow any cold air. Ac button was on, LO temp setting, and it just blew warm humid air for about 10 mins. I finally pulled over and tried turning ac button off and on and still no luck. Finally I shut the car off, turned it back on and it instantly blew cold. It's been a few days and it hasn't happened again, but I find myself questioning whether it will work every time. It's 110 here in Phoenix so ac is basically a necessity. I know the dealer won't be able to replicate it so I don't really want to waste my time.
View 6 RepliesHave a 2003 gmc truck 1500hd. When i come to a stop or at idle , my ac blows warm air out. At cursing speed it blows cold air.
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