Passat (B6) :: AC Just Flat Out While Driving - No Response When Turned On
Sep 8, 2009
Just got the car back from the dealer a couple weeks ago after the engine was vibrating. Replaced one of the valves and it worked great. Now a few days ago I was driving home and the AC just flat out died. I know the 06's have a problem with the AC, but I think this is something different because the fan doesn't come on at all (with the AC on or off) either. When I turn the AC on, there is absolutely no response. RPMs don't go up as they would when the AC unit comes on, the fan doesn't come on... nothing. All that happens is the yellow light on the AC button turns on. The compass on my rear view mirror doesn't come on either. The turbo doesn't seem to kick in at all. If it kicking, it's very very weak. This all happened at the same time as the AC failure.
I checked the fuses, and everything seems to be okay. The console, for the first time ever, is saying I need to take the car in for maintenance in so many miles and in so many days. I've never gotten this message before. The car is 100% driveable though, other than the lack of power due to the turbo not coming on and not having AC in these hot 100+ degree days...
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I have annoying problem with the car feeling flat while driving it braking into a corner then coming out of the corner I feel I get no response from the pedal unless I push it down further. While pushing down a little further it roars out of the corner. I have noticed it more now because of the icy roads when I have traction control turned off. Push pedal down slightly with no response, then push 1mm further and the tires spin slowly.
I performed my own test in neutral of the auto transmission. While idling at usual idle speed, push pedal slowly and stop, kept doing this a little further each time to see what the rpm was reading. Finally it went from Idle speed under 1000 rpm and shot up to over 3000 rpm? I tried this dozens of times and could not rev the engine to anything between idle speed and roughly 3 grand. Took to dealer "no codes" I believe this will affect fuel consumption.
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Recently it feels like the transmission is 'hunting' drops a gear, picks up a gear when driving constant speed on flat roads. 2.0T with tiptronic. Additionally, very intermittent, the car will get a shimmy around 48-50 mph. feels more transmission related and it is not the tires since it is an intermittent issue.
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After driving a while, shut down the engine, return to start a half-hour later, no response when key turned. Wait a while, everything's fine. We've chased all the under hood wiring connectors, all are clean and tight. Replaced the ignition switch. Have not yet been able to get it to fail when it's in the mechanic's shop. Problem worse in warmer weather, but it has misbehaved in mid-December, too.
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I was driving my car about a week ago and when turning onto the HWY it just cut out and stoped running. pulled the key out and put it back in and started right up. Well today the same problem happened to me while i was on the HWY, pulled the key out and put it back in and it started right up. What is causing this to happen?
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I got my coilovers installed, love em....but now I have a clunking sound. Oddly enough it happens when I'm on flat pavement...not when I'm going over bumps.
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I've read from quite a few places online that other 2012 Honda Civic owners were having tires go flat, pop and shred while driving (Granted that this is probably the most common car issue that any one faces). The Honda is my wife's car and is less then a year old. I change her flat and checked the other tires ALL of which were dangerously low on air. Seems strange that so many of the same vehicles with low mileage are reporting having the same issues. (Firestone Affinity Tires)...
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My TMPS as recently randomly tells me after about 5 minutes of driving that there is a flat tire. Stopping and checking the Inflation (warm type) shows the typical ~ +2 psi and no faults (or warnings) like long term -3psi or when I physically let the air out of the tire to test it. Physical test of the tire pressures confirms that they are all about ~+2psi after driving for 5-10 minutes.
No, there are no nail in the tires.
Yes, they pass the soap bubble test.
Yes, they hold the inflated pressures for weeks (both on TPMS cold and warm types) AND physical checks with TWO types of pressure gauges.
Yes, I have retrained several times after complete overnight cool down (~55F) and verification of physical pressure.
I though it my be RF interference with the TMPS (almost the same area after getting on the highway from 10 blocks of stop and go city streets) but it also randomly does it on city streets and sometimes after only 1 minute. No internal changes to the car electronics. No changes to mobile phone or location in car. Do these valve stems have batteries ? If the battery is low, is there an indicator of such ?
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This weekend I was driving home from my parents and noticed that on flat ground at a constant pace there seemed to be surging of some sort...Although I am not sure that surging is exactly what it was, but it is the best word to describe it.
Basically, if I kept my foot at an even speed (not accelerating or decelerating) I would get very subtle movement in what seemed to be either the differential or the transmission. No error codes were thrown and the battery gauge was spiked at 14 solid.
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When I first got my car it had a flat spot while driving hard at higher rpms. Almost as if something were actually holding the car back, it would pull nice up to that spot and then just almost die off. I eventually got unitronic flash and it seemed better but it was still doing it. Later companies started coming out with dsg flashes and this seemed to be the remedy but I now have hpa dsg flash and it still does it from time to to time. Could this be a faulty coilpack, or an issue with the intake manifold valve that changes over at higher rpms?
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I don't think I've heard it for a while but hearing them again. While driving car over some terrain (road, parking lot, parking lot ramp) that's not flat but curved up/down, as the car goes over it, I may hear a grinding type noise.
I don't believe it's the one where the bottom of car hits the road because of bobbing up and down and having low clearance from tires to bottom of car frame. I've heard that type of noise before as passenger in other people's cars.
Is this noise likely to be associated to some suspension component, axle, or the shock absorbers, etc.? I recently had the shocks replaced about a year ago, I hope the shocks didn't just die after a year. Other than that, car runs fine.
I did have tires replaced with new ones recently though if that makes a difference, car didn't go through alignment check though, just rebalance new tires.
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I have a 2006 GMC 1500 4x4 just under 100,000 miles on a GM crate engine, 266,000 on truck, runs great no loss of power, no drop in MPG. sill get 17-18 around town on 87. If I put 90-91 gas in when pulling a load I get 18 all day long. So were is the problem? I am getting spark knock. I have tried diffrent gas, just put in plugs and wires. Old plugs looked good. No Cel on, No codes. It happens when I am flat roads and going up hills. I did get to go away for 1 tank when I switched gas stations,but now all brands of gas do it. This has been going for 3 mo's. One more thing it all started after I made a 800 mile round trip puling a trailer ( just under 5000 lbs on trailer 2 axle enclosed). On that trip as always do I used 90-91 gas.
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I was driving home yesterday, when all of a sudden felt like the car downshifted by its self. I tried giving it gas but nothing happened. The car still starts up and runs fine there's just no throttle response. I had to drive it home by riding the gears. Today i scanned the car and a few codes came up. I already had some previous codes because my secondary air injection pump is deleted and same with an evap solenoid also had some codes for injectors but im pretty sure that's cause they're not stock and the resistance isn't the same. The codes that popped up including the previous ones.
P1631 accelerator position sensor g79
P1634 accelerator position sensor limp mode?
p1469 evap code
P1433 secondary air pump
P1690 malfunctioning cell light
Im pretty sure that's what each code is for. The last 3 codes were previously existing and the car drove fine.
Anyways i tried cleaning up the contacts on the gas pedal, didn't work. So I looked under my car to look for damaged 02 wires, which i found. Did a super shotty temporary fix, and still nothing works. I heard maybe it could be my ecu? The car is a 1999.5 golf originally a 2.0 but has been swapped with a awp 1.8t out of a 20th, 5 speed Lots of work done to the engine.
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Its been happening to me for a while now, but it seems to be more frequent. ill b driving around casually, go to pass someone or just accelerate hard then quickly up shift and get back on the throttle. I hear the engine begin to rev up again after the gear change but it takes a second or so until i feel the car continue accelerating. also i can feel the haldex system when it switches between fwd and awd or whatever it does. like you can hear it catch and def feel it lurch around. and clutch pedal vibrate a lot when any pressure is applied to it. is this normal?
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Since the OJ flash, my fuel mileage has seemed better. On a recent trip from Columbia back to the low country on I26 I was getting 30.6 MPG on the trip accumulated mpg readout. Not too shabby for a 3600 lb car with 280 hp! This was driving with average speed of around 74 mph with AC on and obviously windows up. When I lived up in New England it would never break 26mpg on highway at any speed. I guess it likes the flat roads (they're as flat as a pancake around Charleston, SC).
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2005 f150 super cab, 5.4 liter, 4x4 107k miles. I have a 12 bolt rear differential and the tag on the door has an axle code of "B6". No noise under power or braking but if your driving along flat road and not much power is needed to keep the truck moving then there is a hum almost sounds like faint grinding but not quite. The differential housing gets hot to touch after a 30 mile drive down the interstate.
My brother was the previous owner and this has made the noise for years so it's not critical but annoying. I removed the dif. cover to change the oil. All the teeth are smooth, no rough or grinding surfaces. No play at the wheel end so I don't believe its a bad bearing. Oil was used but not burnt up or sludgy and very few metal flakes at bottom of housing. Thought it looked good for the age. Also, both wheels off ground and truck in neutral. There seems to be a lot of resistance while turning the wheel. I don't think the brakes are dragging but will eliminate that possibility this weekend.
What rear axle I have. Why its making the noise? How to repair it? Is this a posi diff?
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I have a Sonata 2012 limited version. Lately its been loosing power while driving. It will going around 60 for instance and as I am pressing the gas all of the sudden the rmp begins to drop and the car doesn't respond to the acceleration of me stepping in the gas. It is not until I completely get my foot of the gas and re-engange again that it will recognize it and continue accelerating. It will doing whether I am going 60, 40, 20 mph.
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My car has a distinct pull to the left when driving on a flat straight road. If I let go of the steering wheel the wheel actually turns about 5 degrees left of centre and the car goes in that direction.
Had an alignment from lexus edinburgh last year and again from another garage yesterday,
Still pulls and I have to physically hold the steering wheel centre when driving.
Car is 2011 IS F UK
Attached is my alignment spec from yesterday, Is it the caster issue as this can't be adjusted? If it is what's required?
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I had these things wrong in the first 12 months
Tire shake: took 4 trips to find one bad tire. Replaced 1 tire
Squeaky front end: 2 trips to find front coil rubbing on the frame due to bad mount or something. Fixed under recall
Squeaky front end part 2: bad upper strut mount bushing. I won't even count the dealership nicking my hood and it has to be repainted.
I have never had a perfectly smooth riding car. Frankly, the loaners drive better. I documented this with the dealer I bought the car from and then with VWoA a month ago. I told them the front tires are shaking again and need a balance. I even had the front tires balanced at an Indy shop. Before my 1100 vacation. Now it needs balancing again. The back has always had a slight bumping
Now at the 10k service, I get a free alignment check and find my car is moderately out if alignment.
I originally mentioned it to my purchase dealer asking if it needed the alignment after all suspension work. They said it was not needed. EVIDENTALLY IT WAS.
So now I have a tire with a flat spot which they should have replaced when I had one replaced. Evidently, this car says before I leased it. I used my free alignment I had with my extended warranty which I should have been able to save for down the road AND I still need a tire balance.
I told VWoA a month ago I shouldn't have to pay for a balance if it kept going out of balance. Obviously, something was causing the tires to be out if balance. It was pretty far out on the front left. Camber was out .58 and the toe .02.
I am highly annoyed. Norm reeves never put the effort in to make it smooth.
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Eco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
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I have a 2008 toyora prius with 75423mi on it, was purchased with 70000mi two or three months ago. I have had no problems with this vehicle until recently. Being a prius newbie, I decided to ask here. When sitting parked on a slight slope earlier with the car running, radio running, and phone plugged in for an extended amount of time, I received an error on my display stating smething along the lines of "there is an abnormality with the p transmission mechanism, please part the car on a flat surface and engage the parking break completely" paired with a red triangle on the dash. I immediately moved the car to flat ground and engaged the parking break. The car turns one, shifts fine, and acts just as normal as prior. Is there anything I should be worried about? The car is still under toyota warrenty and is due an oil change now. Any clue what the cause of this was and if it will be reoccuring?
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