I can't figure this one out. Sometimes I turn it on all the way and it blows very little, barely noticeable and then it comes on eventually. Sometimes it works fine. Sometimes it seems to come on if I hit a bump or something and then off.
View 14 RepliesAs listed above I own a 98 Volkswagen Passat. It seems to run just fine for the most part, but if I push on the gas and let off I notice a slight sputter. The RPM's will drop to about 800RPM up to 1000RPM and back down again and it will eventually stabilize and idle fine. My only guess that I have so far that I read on a post somewhere is that the EGR Valve tends to get gunked up and stick. I will try to clean that off.
View 12 RepliesI tried to use my A/C yesterday and all I got was hot air. I've only had the car (06) since the end of January.
View 5 RepliesI made another thread about when I turn the AC on, it blows hot for a few minutes, sometimes almost 10. I decided to go get a recharge kit and when I plug it in, the PSI is almost 60-65. It should be around 35-40. Is this normal for these cars?
View 4 RepliesWhen I start my passat, it blows cold air after a couple minutes as it should. I'll start driving and the air continues to blow ice cold air as it has for years BUT as soon as I stop in a parking lot for a couple minutes or park in a driveway and the car is not in motion, the air blows warm dead air and stays that muggy way until I drive again which then it'll be ice cold again.
View 10 RepliesMy 05 wagon's a/c seems to be acting up. It takes about 30 minutes of running the a/c before it blows cold air. It's under warranty so I'll be taking it in.
View 3 RepliesWhen I turn on the heater on at any temp and fan setting the A/C automatically turns on (compressor and condensor fan turns on) . Engine temp comes up and stays at 190. I can turn up the heat to HI and still cold air blows. All buttons and LEDs work on the climatronic, is it the climatronic that is bad?
View 1 RepliesMy g/f's 98 Passat 1.8T has been pretty bad on being able to blow hot air inside, and now that its colder out its even worse.
Ever since she got the car, the coolant temp gauge is always at it's coldest, so I'm thinking its time for a greentop sensor. Her coolant right now is a lil low so, in the meantime, I'll be headed to the dealer to get both a new CTS and some G12.
Her fan does blow air, but could there be anything else wrong that would keep it from blowing hot air?
Have 2003 V6 FWD Passat. A/C blows hard but quit blowing cold. Noticed last week, that sitting for a long light, A/C would quit blowing cold, then cycle on again every 20-30 sec. After worked fine. Yesterday no cold air.
Read on forums about the 384 relay. My electric fan is NOT coming on. Started car, turned A/C on high, and checked voltage on connecter to fan. was negligible. Car was fully warmed up, so i figure voltage should be 14.0 VDC
Making assumption that it is either the AC relay 384, or the fan relay but there are two, a 214 and a 213.
I have a Buick park avenue 1998, 3.8L V6 engine. the problem is: The ac vent on the driver's side blows cold air but on the passenger side blows EXTREMELY hot air. no matter how cold or hot you set the ac it blows at the same temperature on both sides. Florida heat is setting in and my passengers are melting. I am really hopping that is not something to bad and that I can fix it myself. Tip: this started happening after i had the alternator and the battery replaced.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's car 95 Firebird formula a/c quit a few days ago. So far I've checked the charge and changed the high side pressure sensor, but the clutch will not engage. If I bypass the relay the clutch comes on and the a/c works. I've swapped out the relay with another one from my car that works and still no luck.
I've read through my 93 GM camaro service manual and it shows a low side pressure sensor next to the high side one. I've been all over under the hood of this car and there is no sensor that I see.
Had probs. with 5th tear to start. It started to pop out of 5th gear when I let off the gas, eventually not going into 5th anymore. You could put into 5th but when you let out the clutch it would just grind. Now the other day I drove it to work because I had no other car to take and I made it there with no issues using 1st-4th. My work is 42 mile away with a speed limit of 60 for about half of it Now when I am ready to go home from work I have no gears at all. It will not go into any gear at all. The clutch does not feel spongy it does have some pressure and linkage appears to be intact.
View 4 RepliesWhat it means when you turn the temperature way down, it'll eventually display LOW? What does it do?
View 6 RepliesI got a 99 Silverado z71. Well my problems started yesterday morning going to work when I got to work I tried backing into my parking spot I got to put it in reverse and to start backing up and the truck acted like it was in neutral. So without thinking I shut the truck off turned it back on and tried again and it worked like nothing ever happened. So I thought nothing of it sat there with the truck running since I'm there early I figured I had enough time to go get a bite to eat so I put it in drive And go to pull out and the truck was acting real sluggish taking off in 1st. Almost like it was slipping again restarted the truck and the problem was gone get back to work parked it.
Later that night on my way home on the highway I noticed the truck was shuttering periodically and the rpms were at around 2000 going 65. When the real problem started was when I came to a stop light and go to take off it was really sluggish and slipping pretty bad so I pulled into a gas station stop and restarted the truck and it temporarily fixed the problem tell I was five miles from my house this time it started slipping really bad. I was able to limp it home, I also noticed it skipped 2nd and went into 3rd. What I'm stumped on is why everytime I shut it off and restart it, it acts like nothing happens tell later down the road.
Could it be a computer problem or is the transmission done for?
So about a week ago I took my car to the stealership for the coolant gauge needle. Whenever I started the car in the past, the needle jumps right up and eventually settles at 190. At the time however, it just wouldn't budge on startup. After each startup,(5-10 min of driving), the needle would slowly but surely make it's way up to 190.
So I took it there and they replaced the system (I'll get the service receipt posted up soon) and it solved the problem for a day.
Now, a few days after, it's doing the same bs again. I'm going to take it there AGAIN soon to check it out. Just wish they could get it right the first time [/rant] .
My car developed a problem where it would lose power intermittently while running. The power would come and go before the car eventually dies. Sometimes it starts momentarily and sometimes it takes much, much longer. I've replaced the fuel pump and the camshaft sensor but the problem persists. My last options may be the crank sensor or the ignition module. 95 Buick P.A. Ultra
View 2 RepliesMy van went from drive to 3rd gear while i was driving. and now its stuck in 3rd gear. its a 98 dodge caravan. i checked the transmission fluid it was full. how do i fix it?
View 7 RepliesI have a 99 Blazer 4x4 with ABS. Brake pedal just went to the floor and car stopped eventually ... a bit scary. I've checked all the brake lines and the inside of all wheels and there is no sign of fluid anywhere. All pistons seem to be where they need to be with backing plates nicely visible.
I pumped the brakes quite a few times and same result ... but I'm not pumping fluid on the ground. As expected I've also checked the reservoir and its full. Didn't see any leaks so its full. I'm guessing that the master cylinder has given up the ghost ... truck has 470,000km so things wear out.
It appears that my drivers side low beam on my 08 prius shuts off from time to time. It seems to be during the rain, or damp weather. how can i figure out where the break in the wire is, if it is not clearly visible, OR is there a common site that separates in this model.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2004 that I purchased in Jan '05 with just over 10K miles on it, after taking out a large deer with my previous Prius (90k miles on that one). I'm now at 271k and my first non-maintenance repair issue has occurred. My A/C was working fine one day, then nothing the next. Hot air, and nothing else. Had my regular service place (not dealer) check it during my regular oil change. Found the refrigerant was out, and did a little digging. They suspected a bad compressor, and referred me to the dealer. Upon recommendation from a friend, had another non-dealer check it the next day ( Wow, no Freon, and we can't locate the leak!). So I bit the bullet and took it to the dealer.
Not sure I want to put that much into fixing the a/c in a car this old/this many miles. I'm pretty handy with fixing things, but not this. And not a lot of non-dealer options in my area who will work on hybrids.
I have a 92 grand prix. Out of nowhere when I hit my brakes the car would sputter & eventually die. So I had my break booster replaced & now not only does it still sputter it's has a lack of power when accelerating & I can smell a little oil burning. It hasn't stalled but it sure isn't running smooth. Is the booster bad? Do I just need a new air filter. I've haven't seen any leaks & the brakes work fine so I don't think it's the master cylinder.
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