My AC went out the other day. My wife said it took about 10 to 20 mins to finally start working and blowing cold and the next day it would never ever kick in anymore. Vents are blowing but just a outside temp air, also the a/c light comes on and i hear slightly different idle when ac engaged, however i dont really hear anything happening with the compressor.
View 4 RepliesIt seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
View 15 RepliesWhy when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
View 19 RepliesI have the light engine on - and my mechanic has informed me that the O2 sensor on bank one needs to be replaced. I need to understand if the lost of power when accelerating the car can be directly related to the O2 sensor or something else. The car hesitates and takes long to switch gears on my Auto tectronic trany.
View 2 RepliesThis applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001.5 v6 passat and it runs good most of the time, but there are moments in which i want to take off quickly and the car doesn't GO.... the engine revs slowly and it begins to move slowly as well... then if i let go of the gas completely for about a second and then step on the accelerator again.... then it will continue to run normal again...
I also have a check engine light on... and the car also takes a while to start after i put gas in it... it needs to be cranked about 4 times until it finally starts.... could this be part of the same problem??
I was curious as to how ambitious a project this would be and if special tools are needed.
View 1 RepliesI have an 06 Limited. My rear window takes about 15min to defrost in 40 degree weather. And only about 70% of the window is clear. Im not sure if this is the case with all avalons or just mine as i got it about a month ago. My 02 civic si was defrosting in about 5min. Im having trouble thinking that a civic has a better convenience feature than an avalon.
View 3 RepliesFrom stop. When I accelerate it takes a long time to get to drive. It feels like a lag time. What is wrong with my car?
View 3 RepliesI love my 2011 Forester except for one thing. (you all knew this was coming) it seems to take forever to warm up! My Forester has a blue light on the dash (Coolant temperature Light) It turns red if the temperature is too high and it is blue when the car is started and then goes out when the car is warmed up. To me, this seems to take too long. My Forester has 50,000 miles on it. The other day I timed how long it took to warm up. The forester sat at work for 8 hours. When I started it up to go home, (it was 42 degrees), it took almost 4 minutes for the blue light to go off indicating the car was properly warmed up. All my coworkers were long gone. I bought the car new and I intend to drive it for many years so I have been waiting for the blue light to go off. I get a hard time from friends and family telling me to get going...I don't think it takes this long for other cars to warm up.
View 10 Repliesi have a 1998 chevy blazer 4.3 4wd v6 about 130000 miles on it. There is no check engine light on at all. Some reason it takes long time for it to get up to speed.and i can't figer out why that is i did replace spark plugs in it..
View 11 RepliesLOVE everything about the Prius C! Only issue is that once I punch the Bluetooth option, it takes at least a good 30 seconds to connect. Is that normal? (I use an iPhone 4S with updated iOS). I was driving an Elantra with the same feature and it hooked up within 5-10 seconds.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1983 CJ7 258 inline 6Mechanic says coil is only discharging 12 volts on release of the key. It takes so long to crank that the battery ends up dying. Carburetor has been overhauled, gas tank and fuel lines have been cleaned and flushed. Mechanic said there was a leak in the intake but think it is remedied. Will start but can't keep it running unless gas pedal pressed. If you stop to shift gears, turn, etc, it dies.
View 6 RepliesOn our 2005 Toyota Camry, we have recently noticed that the maintenance-required light takes a long time to go off when the ignition is cycled. This is true whether the engine is started immediately or the key is simply left in the ON position until proveout is completed.
The car is up to date on all services and we see no other signs of an impending problem. At the moment we do not have the ability to retrieve OBD-II diagnostic codes. What could be going on?
I'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
I know that average normal tranny temps for the new 6.7s are 200 degrees give or take which my truck does as well. but I'm wondering about how long is normal for the tranny temp to get up to that normal range? My truck can take anywhere from 20 minutes to almost an hour depending on if I'm on highway vs lower speed driving and it's been that way since I bought it. Am I worrying over nothing or my worries not just worries?
View 7 RepliesRecently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
Tried to start it, it just cranks for a long time, it can't even hold an idle. After 5 minutes of cranking and trying to get it running, it starts up just fine like there isn't even a problem. It just started to happen today. I have a 2004 v6 2.6 glx, completely stock.
View 3 RepliesLately my '03 1.8t with 90k has taken to long cranking before firing.Once it fires, it runs rough for about two seconds and then smooth as usual. Thought it might be Fuel pump relay but I'd think that'd show a fault light. Same with Fuel pump?No faults showing up. Plugs changed 9k ago. Only run Premium Shell.
View 1 RepliesMy problem is on my gf's 99 Passat. Its the 1.8t and runs and drives fine. The abs/brake light is blinking which from reading seems common and I have to send that module out to be rebuilt. The issue I am having right now is every once and a while it wont start. It will crank and crank and finally start like a minute later. She's convinced pumping the gas pedal works but I don't think its fuel related at all as it smells flooded when it finally starts. Ive replaced the plugs, air filter and still does same thing.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.