Passat (B6) :: A/C Malfunction - Compressor Is Shot?
Jul 19, 2007
I took the car in today for the damn A/C.
They said my compressor is shot.
So, when I get it back I hope I will have cold A/C. I will let you know.
Jul 19, 2007
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Passat (B5) :: 2003 - CV Boots Are Shot
Went in for a tune-up and inspection on my 03 1.8 passat. Turns out my cv boots are shot. How much should I expect to pay for parts & labor, I will not be going to the vw stealership to get this done. It's just the fronts that need to be done.
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I recently put in a new compressor and accumulator. I didn't change the orifice tube since it is almost impossible to get to. I added freon and oil with dye and it would work fine sporadically sometimes it wouldn't get cold at all other times it would be freezing. This lasted about a week. I noticed that when it was hot the clutch was engaging fully but I felt the pipe near the firewall and it wasn't cold as if the compressor wasn't compressing and then it would start compressing and it would get cold. The compressor sounds different when it was making the car cold. This led me to rule out a problem in the air control doors. Now there seems to be a leak which is bad since it runs out almost immediately. The problem is finding it since there isn't any oil residue or freon dye where I can see.
(Looking for some shortcuts where I don't have to remove the vacuum brake, brake booster to change the orifice tube?)
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2006 Mustang GT Convertible; air conditioner doesn't always work. When I press the button to turn on the air conditioner, the panel light illuminates but the a/c compressor does not engage. After driving the car for anywhere between 10 and 45 minutes, the compressor clutch will engage and the air conditioner cools normally. When I first noticed this problem over a year ago, I discovered that if I left the air conditioner in the "on" position when I turned off the car, the air conditioner would work the next time I started the car. This hasn't happened lately (so much for that "solution"). The car has been at the local Ford dealer multiple times for this problem and although they have been able to duplicate the problem, they have no solution. The dealer checked the electronics, recharged the system and tested the computer and told me that these were all fine.
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It's one of those days again when the temps are starting to get hot here in Austin, Tx. My AC started acting up during the Spring and first started working fine then after about 10-15 minutes of driving the air starts to blow warmer. The air doesn't go back to cold unless the car has been parked and off for several hours or overnight, and even after that it only blows cold for 10-15 mins again.
Well, I didn't have the time/money to mess with it. The recent May it stopped cooling completely. I recently took it to a local shop and we look at it together. Drained the system and the mechanic was saying it's pulling some air and a little refrigerant. Well, we recharged the system and we could only put in 0.5 lbs and the Low side just maxes out. The system is supposed to hold 1.06 lbs so we were left scratching our heads.
Decided to check for leaks, discharged the system again and hooked up a vacuum pump and see if the gauges will go below 0 for negative pressure and they never did. So the shop doesn't think my system has a leak. They could have used a dye to check but didn't have any on the shelf at that moment.
I also have a DTC code of B1476 and we followed the shop manual. Fans blow into the engine and sometimes we had the bubble but couldn't add more refrigerant due to the Low side being maxed.
My father thinks I most likely have a blockage somewhere in the system. If so, how I can check for this? Is there a specific place or two I can look to find out the system is blocked?
Some people on the form seem to have AC problems, including some with the B1476, and others that couldn't find the problem very well. I'm worried that replacing the compressor wouldn't solve the problem, especially if there is a blockage or something. I usually do a lot of mechanic work but I've never actually worked on an AC system before. I would love to dive into this, even if I can only do part of it and then send it to the Toyota dealer for a flush and charge.
Passat (B6) :: Front Pads And Rotors Went Shot
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The AC in my 2004 V6 4-matic wagon has not worked since the dealer had it in their shop last. Coincidentally, neither does the outside temp display on the dash. I tried one of those recharge kits with the cans but the pressure guage registers 90 PSI when I hook it up, more than enough according to the instructions. So it seems the system is charged and it looks like the compressor will not engage. Could the temperature problem and the AC be related? Manual says it only kicks in when the outside temp is hot enough so I figure how will it know if its hot enough if the temp probe is not working? (unless there is another probe somewhere) ...
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P0171B--B1 Lean
16555--B1 Lean
16684--Misfire
16685--#1 misfire
16686--#2 misfire
16687--#3 misfire
16688--#4 misfire
17519--O2 B1 Lean
17544--B1 Lean
18011--Internal Module Malf.
Was told it COULD be :
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2) Crankcase breather
3) coils
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My AC is no longer running. Last summer it would struggle to get cold, but when in motion it did pretty well - just not freezing cold. Last few weeks it seemed like the compressor would switch off when stopped. Then past week, I hit the AC button (light comes on, fan switches to low, and the relay clicks) but it sounds like the AC compressor isn't engaging. The dryer is frosty to the touch, but the low and high ports in the bay are warm/hot. I checked the pressure and it was through the roof. I vented some (I know I know) out, but all that came out mostly was air with a bit of the refrigerant squirt once or twice during the vent. Still no success. Should there be air coming out of the low pressure port?
AWM 1.8t
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Not enough cooling in the B5.5 Passat wagon.
I had the freon checked and it seems to be fine, however it takes a long time for the cabin to cool of here in North Carolina. THe air coming out of the vents doesn't seem as cold as my older 1998 Passat. I used to have a silver sedan 1.8T and the a/c was temperature was ice cold and it got very cold after 20 seconds or so. It reminded me of GM cars.
My wagon is dark blue and beige leather interior which is probably why it takes longer to cool off. If you go for a short trip and the car has been out in the sun it would take at least 15 to 20 minutes to get comfortable. The compressor generally cycles off only once and then it stays on for the duration. My old sedan was the same way. I use the a/c on the rec mode which keep the air colder but still not quite as cold as some other models.
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My MIL came on the other night so I brought it to the dealer today for diagnosis.
Per tech, "Found 1 DTC P2181 for cooling system malfunction, checked measuring values, found thermostat sticking open.
Recommendation is to replace thermostat with housing." I have 95K miles on the car, original owner...first time in a long time to have an issue.
The SA indicated the thermostat replacement. The tech indicated the thermostat is in the front of the engine which is hard to access.