Passat (B6) :: 26 MPG On Flat Surface?
Oct 10, 2007
Since the OJ flash, my fuel mileage has seemed better. On a recent trip from Columbia back to the low country on I26 I was getting 30.6 MPG on the trip accumulated mpg readout. Not too shabby for a 3600 lb car with 280 hp! This was driving with average speed of around 74 mph with AC on and obviously windows up. When I lived up in New England it would never break 26mpg on highway at any speed. I guess it likes the flat roads (they're as flat as a pancake around Charleston, SC).
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I have a 2008 toyora prius with 75423mi on it, was purchased with 70000mi two or three months ago. I have had no problems with this vehicle until recently. Being a prius newbie, I decided to ask here. When sitting parked on a slight slope earlier with the car running, radio running, and phone plugged in for an extended amount of time, I received an error on my display stating smething along the lines of "there is an abnormality with the p transmission mechanism, please part the car on a flat surface and engage the parking break completely" paired with a red triangle on the dash. I immediately moved the car to flat ground and engaged the parking break. The car turns one, shifts fine, and acts just as normal as prior. Is there anything I should be worried about? The car is still under toyota warrenty and is due an oil change now. Any clue what the cause of this was and if it will be reoccuring?
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"There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." with the red triangle
I've done a ton of google searches on this issue with no luck finding a resolution.
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2007 F150 supercrew, sometimes it doesn't want to shift out of park even on a flat surface where its not torque locked.. is there an adjustment i can do myself?
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Accent 2008 (155,000 km) .... Walter pump, all belt, timing belt, pulley where changed @ 120,00Km when i bought the car.
**No code showing in dtc no check engine light**
I've been losing power uphill, RPM at 4,000 and and losing speed. I heard a loud sound coming from the front starting at 2,500 rpm and up (like if the exhaust air is struggling to get out), not sure who to explain that accelerating noise
On Flat surface it's slower accelerating up to 3,000 rpm with that loud sound. It's like the more i pressed on the gas pedal, the less acceleration i get.
**Running idle up to 4,000 rpm in park, no loud noise, engine running normal sound with no lack in acceleration in RPM**
2 weeks before I had 2 ignitions coil going bad at same time, i run it about 2 miles before changing them, and the exhaust/catalytic converter came hot and melted the plastic dust cover under the car near the catalytic converter.. Did I premature burn or plug that catalytic converter?
Would it be catalytic converter? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter..
I thought of buying a catalytic converter cleaner and put in fuel tank and up the intake..
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Just bought a 2010 Hertz GenIII w/44,000mi. Wife had trouble starting it twice with weird messages like place car on flat surface to orange triangle. I hear it may be a weak battery???
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I have an 07 Prius that's been going great for me. About two weeks ago I get this strange error message about my P Lock mechanism and how I need to be parked on a flat surface with the parking brake fully engaged. The car wouldn't start, just a bunch of warning lights. Finally I replaced the 12v battery at the dealership.
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I'm battling an odd suspension issue...over the last 5-7,000 miles, I've had a strange vibration issue surface that has varied in intensity depending on speed and road surface. I've had a damaged wheel trued, replaced all four tires and had all four wheels/tires RFV balanced. The vibration has changed but not quite gone away. Instead, it's been joined by an increased vagueness in directional stability (tendency to wander) at highway speed.
Last week, the tech balancing my tires said he felt my right hand front rear control arm bushing was worn. The more I've thought about this, the more I'm wondering if this is what might be the source of this mystery vibration issue. So, I really have two questions?
First, bad front CA rear bushing replaced under warranty? 15,000 miles does NOT seem like an acceptable service life for a suspension bushing? Do these bushings have a history of premature wear and failure, or am I just lucky?
Second, if I do have to replace one or both bushings (left and right pt. no. 5C407183A,) I'd like to ask if the solid bushing (pt. no. 1J0407181) from a Jetta or Beetle will work in a Passat control arm? If I do have to replace the bushing, it might be better to put a more solid piece of rubber in there instead of the flimsier original part.
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I had these things wrong in the first 12 months
Tire shake: took 4 trips to find one bad tire. Replaced 1 tire
Squeaky front end: 2 trips to find front coil rubbing on the frame due to bad mount or something. Fixed under recall
Squeaky front end part 2: bad upper strut mount bushing. I won't even count the dealership nicking my hood and it has to be repainted.
I have never had a perfectly smooth riding car. Frankly, the loaners drive better. I documented this with the dealer I bought the car from and then with VWoA a month ago. I told them the front tires are shaking again and need a balance. I even had the front tires balanced at an Indy shop. Before my 1100 vacation. Now it needs balancing again. The back has always had a slight bumping
Now at the 10k service, I get a free alignment check and find my car is moderately out if alignment.
I originally mentioned it to my purchase dealer asking if it needed the alignment after all suspension work. They said it was not needed. EVIDENTALLY IT WAS.
So now I have a tire with a flat spot which they should have replaced when I had one replaced. Evidently, this car says before I leased it. I used my free alignment I had with my extended warranty which I should have been able to save for down the road AND I still need a tire balance.
I told VWoA a month ago I shouldn't have to pay for a balance if it kept going out of balance. Obviously, something was causing the tires to be out if balance. It was pretty far out on the front left. Camber was out .58 and the toe .02.
I am highly annoyed. Norm reeves never put the effort in to make it smooth.
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Just got the car back from the dealer a couple weeks ago after the engine was vibrating. Replaced one of the valves and it worked great. Now a few days ago I was driving home and the AC just flat out died. I know the 06's have a problem with the AC, but I think this is something different because the fan doesn't come on at all (with the AC on or off) either. When I turn the AC on, there is absolutely no response. RPMs don't go up as they would when the AC unit comes on, the fan doesn't come on... nothing. All that happens is the yellow light on the AC button turns on. The compass on my rear view mirror doesn't come on either. The turbo doesn't seem to kick in at all. If it kicking, it's very very weak. This all happened at the same time as the AC failure.
I checked the fuses, and everything seems to be okay. The console, for the first time ever, is saying I need to take the car in for maintenance in so many miles and in so many days. I've never gotten this message before. The car is 100% driveable though, other than the lack of power due to the turbo not coming on and not having AC in these hot 100+ degree days...
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I'm having a problem with my power mirror switch.
1. The fold flat function doesn't work at all
2. The driver mirror won't move with the switch. No motor sound at all
3. The heated mirror's function doesn't work.
I checked the connections and there fine. It's just a very annoying problem with fog on the mirror's with the weather getting colder now.
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I have a 2000 V6 Passat and last week, when I tried to open the side mirrors from their fold flat position, they would not open. It was cold out (about 20 degrees) and I thought the mirrors might be frozen so I turned on the heated mirrors. They frost was removed from the mirrors, but they still would not open and I manually pushed the mirrors back into their normal location. I can adjust both the driver and passenger mirrors from the inside control knob. I have checked the mirror fuse and its ok. Is there a relay or other fuse that would control the fold flat motor?
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Have a 2013 Passat Tdi. It seems that sometimes when i accelerate the car doesn't move it has a flat spot as if the transmission is trying to catch a gear. I know this might sound minor to some folks. However on several occasions I've pulled out into oncoming traffic not expecting it to have a flat spot in the car not moving at all. What's up with this?
On the highway no problem and normal acceleration no problem but if you're going from a stop or pulling away from a intersection seems that happen more so than I would like.
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Recently it feels like the transmission is 'hunting' drops a gear, picks up a gear when driving constant speed on flat roads. 2.0T with tiptronic. Additionally, very intermittent, the car will get a shimmy around 48-50 mph. feels more transmission related and it is not the tires since it is an intermittent issue.
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I am having a problem with my rental passat, its a 2013 with 860miles and the seat lever that makes the seat recline broke and now the seat wont return to normal sitting position, its laid out almost flat. How to fix this? I am guessing there is a wire in there somewhere that will release it ...
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A little background on how I got into this situation. Bought a '90 Celica GT for $300, was told it had a blown head gasket. It started and sounded nice, if a little ruff. Upon driving, it would stutter (like a misfire) till 3k rpm's, then that would go away and she purred like a kitten. Ok I thought I can make this girl into a woman. I start my teardown and what I found was: front 5 head bolts were not torqued down, and the only place on the old gasket that looked like blowby was on cylinder 3 towards the front on the engine. I think to myself it was loose headbolts, bang I send the head in to get cleaned, buy the gasket kit and go about cleaning the various other parts.
I was cleaning the blocks mating suface, and discovered a small surface crack. It goes from one water jacket port to the headbolt hole and to the other water jacket port.
The headbolt hole shown is the 4th(from timing belt) on the back of the block. The loose headbolts were on the front.
The crack does NOT go down the side of the bolt hole, or the water jacket ports. I am just really afraid this means a new block. The parts I can return if all else fails, but Im down the tube on the money spent on the car and head cleaning.
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The surface of all four of my alloy wheels on my 2010 RX 350 are peeling. Why?
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2010 Prius
The dash display area has a laminate covering it and it is starting to release from the surface of the display. Dealer says that they have to take the entire dash out to look at it and fix it. I am somewhat apprehensive about them taking the dash out and putting it back for a cosmetic item.
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I have a 2011 Toyota Prius with an oddity in the braking system. When I brake while going over a rough surface, like a manhole cover or rumble strips, it feels as though the brakes let go. It's really disconcerting, but this has never been picked up during an inspection. I will bring it to the Toyota Service department, but am leery of being overcharged for something.
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I just did my brakes and now I have this squeaking noise when going over speed bump or on uneven surface at low speed. I figure that the springs was decompressed when the car was jacked up and it would settle back down when the car was lower back down. Its has been over a week now and the noise is still there.
By the way, I replaced with Hawk ceramic brakes and it's great. No NOISE and NO brake DUST.
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I have had my 2010 Prius for 6 months and have noticed that when I'm braking over an uneven surface my car seems to speed up. It's a very uncomfortable feeling. Is this a characteristic of regen braking or is there something wrong?
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