Passat (B6) :: 2009 - CEL / EPC Light Came On - Stutter With Light Smoke?
Jan 27, 2012
2009 Passat 2.0 TSI. Purchased new in Nov. 2009. The car is 2 years and 3 months old. It has 28xxx miles. Maintenance regularly performed. (Mobil 1 0W-40 every 4-5 thousand miles...)
I was driving the car yesterday afternoon when about 2 minutes after leaving home the car's check engine light turns on along with the EPC light after a minute. the car started to stutter with light smoke. I drove home immediately to call the dealership. I scanned the car and it had two cylinder related fault codes. I believe 'Cylinder 2...' and 'Cylinder disabled?' Unfortunately I did not write down the codes as I was in a fury.
The dealership tells me to bring the car in as soon as possible 10 minutes later, I turn the car on and relatively heavy white smoke continues with excessive stuttering especially while in park. Additionally, the muffler sounded as if it was sputtering out the white smoke (1920s train in color and noise). I drove the car slowly to the dealership and noticed difficulty accelerating to 15 miles per hour. I did not try to go above that.
I just had the intake manifold replaced 4-5 weeks ago since I had a check engine light related to that.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I had the transmission filter and fluid changed at the local VW dealership had some issues with that but they straightened that out and its been fine for a while well then about 2 or 3 weeks ago i was trying to mess with an audi and hit the gas (has the 6 speed auto tranny) and the car kinda stuttered and the check engine light flashed probably 4 or 5 times then went off, it did that a few times after that then my wife was driving it and it did that stutter again and the light stayed on, the code said misfire on cylinder 2..
So I replaced the plugs today and it did fine at first but when i got to about 55-60 and went to speed up and it started to miss pretty bad then steadied out and sped up. no check engine light or anything but it was missing.
View 1 Replies
Naturally, the dealer service close to me and my regular repair shop are both closed today, so my mind is racing. My check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and I have been waiting for my guy to get back for it's full 80+K workup/service. That was to be right away.
This morning on my 5 mile trip to work after my car sitting for a day, the check engine light came on as usual (with no seeming weird behavior) - but as I was going through some S-curves, the EPC light came on and it felt as if the engine was throttling down, not knowing how to shift, something.
I wasn't far from my parking lot so I drove on here, parked nose out and popped the hood. Nothing visible (not that there would be necessarily) but weird exhaust smell.
I just went back out after lunch and it cranked for a good 20+ seconds over three start attempts before it finally did. Tach went all low and jiggly before kicking in and revving steadily at 1K. However, white puffs of smoke began coming out the exhaust - weird smell (e.g., unburnt fuel perhaps...)
I'm only in a mild panic as I'll likely have to have this towed in and I don't have a clue what I'm facing. I get conflicting tales online as to what it might be but I'd love to impose on your brains if you have some insight to share. I've read about coil packs, throttle bodies, and more.
The only mechanical issue I've had with this engine was that I had the intake manifold assembly replaced right after my warranty went out. Had the throttle body cleaned then, too. Nothing since other than regular services according to vw standards.
View 7 Replies
About two months ago, my EPC light came on and my check engine light started flashing while I was driving home from work. Never heard of/saw that EPC light before. The car started to stutter and buck really bad when trying to accelerate (on light and hard acceleration). Also, when sitting idle (like at a red light or stop sign) the car would still buck but not as bad as when driving. The only time the car doesn't buck is when I am cruising, like after I just get done pressing on the gas and the car is coasting basically. I call the mechanic the next day and he tells me right off the bat, it sounds like a Crankshaft Position Sensor and to drop it off so he can look at it. So I drop it off, he tells me he believes it is just a bad coil on cylinder 1, so he swapped it out and gave me an oil change (it was due for one). Picked my car up on a Wednesday, it seemed fine. Then on a Saturday same issues and same warning lights came back on. So I had it scanned at Autozone, misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, random cylinder misfire and multiple cylinder misfire, so I call him and tell him, he said just bring it back he'll swap it out. I changed the coils myself since it only takes 10 mins. The car seemed fine for about a month. Then two weeks ago, all of the same issues are back and same warning lights.
Had issues with the EPC light? Also, is any truth that the Crankshaft Position Sensor can be related to this or was the mechanic completely wrong? Read another post by someone else and there was talk of carbon buildup. My friend is mechanic and said that he thinks it might be a fuel related issue or electrical, since the issues keep coming back. Also, it misfires more when the heat is on and seems like the interior lights flicker a little when it's misfiring at idle, it's very subtle, definitely notice it so I don't know if it's electrical, fuel related, carbon build up or what.
-February of 2014, I had a fuel pump replaced by the dealer (it was for a recall)
-Back in January 2015, I had the ignition coils and spark plugs replaced by a friend (who is a mechanic).
-In July I had the lifters replaced (by the same mechanic I called)
-Been up to date with oil changes
-Use plus gas from Citgo
Going to drop it off at the dealership tomorrow.
View 6 Replies
I'm new to owning an ISF. I purchased it almost two months ago and couldn't be more happy with it. I know after owning a car you will start to notice more and more about the car. About a month into owning the car I was on my way to work and I stopped at a light. I noticed that there was a very slight shutter at idle. No where near the shutter if it was missing on a spark plug. After that day it has drawn my attention whenever I stop.
My question is is this normal? I know having a V8 in the car there is going to be some vibration. It's a 2009 with 29k.
View 8 Replies
09 Passat, 19xxx miles
Got in the car and the light came on along with "TIRE PRESSURE TOO LOW", so I went to the gas station and it's got a very NICE air machine. You dial in the PSI (in my case 33 according to door sticker) and it beeps when you've reached the specificed air pressure.
All 4 tires look good and I can't see any visible nails. I've drive about 60 miles on it after I aired them back up with no visible loss in pressure.
Running the OEM ContiSports and OEM "Fat 5" wheels. I haven't modified a thing on the car.
I looked in the manual and it was like "go to an authorized VW shop" and I'm like. What do I do to get the light to go off AND to know which tire was low.
View 7 Replies
I have a 09 w/ DSG and 64K miles. Love it. Never had one mechanical problem until Monday. Driving back from SC on I77 N, my check engine light came on and I stopped at an Autozone in Statesville NC to find that a P2015 fault was to blame. Apparently it is:
DTC Description:
P2015 (2968) Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Sporadic
Technical Background:
- Intake manifold tumble flaps sporadically stick.
- Engine performance is not affected.
At any rate, I drove to the bank this afternoon 2 mi +/- and upon parking at the ATM, the idle went way low (under 1000) and then started creeping higher to about 3K. I raced the engine a couple times then it began starting at 1200, going to about 2000 and then back to 1200. Over and over. It's hard for me not to think these two things were related, except the check engine light was off from Tuesday to today. When the idle was roughest today (almost stalling) - the check engine light began to blink. Then it was steady for the 2 mile drive back and under normal driving, I can't tell anything's wrong.
View 23 Replies
One of my light bulbs for the rear license plate light is out.
what kind of light bulb I need to get?
View 8 Replies
I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
View 4 Replies
I am trying to change the color of the light on my dash board and center console from the standard orange to a light blue color. I've tried searching the internet looking for any advice but I haven't come across anything for a 2009 Toyota corolla. I understand that some cars need to have the light bulbs soldered and some can you can change out a colored film. Which of these options applies to my car? If it's the light bulb change then what size and how many. Also, how to take out the instrumental cluster.
View 6 Replies
I am trying to trace down an issue with my 2009 Tiguan, auto. Its in regards to a stutter I notice in the vehicle at a certain speed/rpm. Almost appears if it doesn't want to shift and unless you really give it. The car certainly still has the power and all, this is also more noticeable on colder days. Today I stopped by the dealer where the vehicle was originally purchased as I am the 2nd owner and they provided me a complete print out of all the service history of the vehicle (quite informative).
Reading through it I found that the not even 6000 km the intake manifold was replaced under warranty they scanned for error P0215. This was on August 2014. They also replaced the injectors during this service.
And then also back in Dec. 2010, 70000km ago they replaced the manifold runner assembly and manifold for the first time.. Appears that they replaced the manifold on this car twice now.. Could this be my cause for the stutter?
Hard to believe that the same part would be getting replaced on a car within 60000km twice..
View 9 Replies
My Tiguan runs really well for the most part. I do have a slight issue that happens above 2200 RPM or so that seems to be getting worse as time passes. With little effort on flat road, the car runs flawlessly. Up a slight incline or light grade on the freeway it gets an intermittent misfire or stumbles periodically (getting more frequent). It smooths out and has a ton of power with heavier acceleration.
It doesn't always happen (though more often than not lately), doesn't throw a code, ambient temp doesn't effect it, happens rain or shine and engine temp doesn't change it. The only code I get from time to time is P2181 (coolant performance), but I can't see that being the issue and it stays happy right around 190ish. Gas mileage is not effected, getting around 27-28 MPG average. Using 91 octane Shell gas. I did a Seafoam induction cleaning since it started happening and Seafoam in the tank with no change. Seems to happen in all gears. if I stay below 2200 RPM it never occurs. The car has about 68,000 miles on it.
View 16 Replies
I have a 2009 Tig with the APR flash. I had the flash done in 2010 in Edmonton. I have enjoyed it for the last two years. BUT this summer while on vacation the car developed a slight stutter on acceleration. When i reset the computer to stock the stutter goes away. What is failing or how I can repeat it with the stock setting so that the dealer can fix it and I can turn the APR tune back on.
View 2 Replies
Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
View 7 Replies
2001 01 1.8t... Hoping this isn't a bad ABS module. When I bought the car, I was told it was a bad wheel sensor in the drivers side. But, the funny part about this is its not on all the time, sometimes it doesn't even come on and the dash is normal.
View 3 Replies
My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
View 3 Replies
I'm trying to fix a B5 1.8t Passat, it is usually a pretty quick car but recently it has had an issue where it "stutters" when accelerating. Meaning, if you put your foot down, it doesn't "take off" right away (you can't get the wheels to squeal) (not that I would try to do that normally). I know how the car used to feel, so it's not turbo lag or the ABS kicking in. It seems to behave normally after the initial stutter, it's most noticeable in 1st gear. I replaced the gas and air filters for fun, but no dice. No codes on VCDS shareware.
I can think of a few theories based on searches, but am not sure how to proceed;
- Plugged cat: expensive, not sure how to diagnose positively to avoid throwing money.
- Turbo issue? Wanted to hook up a gauge to see if the turbo is boosting correctly. Need to find a place to plug in.
- Clutch? Unlikely as the RPMs don't jump, and in third it doesn't slip. The acceleration makes it feel like something is slipping though
- ABS misbehaving? Light isn't showing up though.
View 3 Replies
Recently purchased a 2001.5 Passat, and of course got the mod itch... started with an Neuspeed ECU flash & DV, along with K&N... and now I'm in the process of suspension & exhaust... Unfortunately the past week, I was told that I had a tail light out.... Upper Rear Passenger Side Parking/Brake Light.... So I figure, hit up the parts store, grab a new bulb, and I'll be set...
Well, come to find out that it's not the bulb....
The light works when I brake, so 1/2 of the bulb is good... but the parking lights won't come on that side, but on the driver side everything is good..... even with the new bulbs..(replaced both on that side[passenger] just to be sure.)
So, just out of curiosity, I took one of the old bulbs that I thought was shot, and put it in the drivers side, and what do you know... it worked flawlessly on that side...
So, I'm led to believe I have a short... or a wiring problem somewhere... but I can't see how this could have just happened without really messing with anything... I mean, I disabled the DRL's.... but I even undid that(small piece of tape covering the B prong)... just to make sure..
View 5 Replies
Since i have owned my car the brake and ABS lights have been on (bought it like 2 months ago) i have a solid ABS light, and as long as the ebrake is down the brake light blinks.
Through searching I found that i most likely have a bad abs module. Before I take it out and send it to get repaired, i was wondering if there is anything else that i could check.
I also used VAGCOM to try and talk to the brakes and there is no response from the controller.
View 3 Replies
I have a 99 passat, v6, 5 speed , 110k. ABS light was flashing for past 6 months and I decided to have module replaced by another used one. So put everything back together and ABS light is still on (ok, maybe bad used unit too) but I have another problem now, my rpm's are not working and oil light starts flashing too. So I unplugged ABS and my rpm's came back, oil light is not flashing any more. I am little confused now, is there a wiring problem that just happened in a bad time ot these two are related? Car does have a traction control too.
View 10 Replies
