Passat (B6) :: 2008 V6 - Engine Misfire After Rebuild
Nov 26, 2012
I have passat V6 3.0 lt, coolant receiver got broken and engine overheated. After replacement of the receiver, engine was opened for inspection and head gasket were replaced also. Engine then rebuilt but was misfiring/engine rattling!
Took it to car dealer workshop for inspection, electrical system were reported fine but two pistons/champers at least in the engine not delivering required power!
The statement is not certain and only a full overhaul to the engine might sort it out.
- Note:
- engine head was faced/skimmed before reinstated!!
- A piston block were found loose- not sure how!
- engine milage over 280k km
Would it worth to replace the engine completely with used one or even R36 if fits?
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We operate a garage, did an oil change on a 2007 F150 with a 5.4L, with 70,000 km. A few days later, began to make noise. Owner took it to the dealer, the dealer told him it needed an upper engine rebuild. A technician at the dealership said the oil filter came apart and caused the engine damage. Scored cam guides and cam shaft damage. Installed OEM recommended, Pennzoil 5w20, and Pennzoil PZ42, Purolator manufactured. No loss of oil, proper quantity of oil installed. Sent the filter to Purolator for testing, came back 100% within specifications, no missing parts, gaskets present intact. What would cause this damage?
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Pulled transmission out and it needs to be rebuilt front to back. My motor is generally stock but I'm rolling on 37" tyres so I'm thinking a stall converter and a "performance" rebuild. Looked at "Monster in a box" from Monster Transmissions. Truck is used at tymes to haul cement and heavy bed loads.
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So last night my trans have out, going up a slight grade, all of a sudden the engine revved and I had no more 3rd gear. I've done some research, looks like rebuilding it is the only option. I've got my Mustang GT to drive in the meantime, so I am thinking of rebuilding it myself. The truck is an '07 F150 5.4 2WD.
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The engine is running perfect in idle, but when driving about 3 kilometres, it starts shaking and got obd code (misfire in cylinders 1 , 3 , 5 , 7) .
Checked the coils and injectors all working fine !! The check engine light will not come on while this happened even.
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All seems to be going well, drove the car for first 200 meters yesterday! Replacing the faulty parts is always easiest, just need to know if there are any shortcuts for fixing this. What's the engine oil temperature sensor? The one bolted in oil pan?
The intake air temperature is showing -40 degrees celsius.
MAF is plugged correctly.
VAG-COM gives me these following codes:
3 Faults Found:
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low
Readiness: 0000 0000
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Just yesterday cranked my car for the first time after complete engine rebuild!! Before starting I cranked it couple of time with the spark plugs out and fuel injection still on. This was to get the oil/fuel pressure up.
After that torqued everything in place and it jumped to life instantly. The car runs really smoothly. No clicks or ticks and all the timing chain noise in gone for good. I warmed the engine with 1500-2000rpm and checked for leaks.
Only minor one was in the oil filter housing, couple of drops came between the cooler and the housing. (this was oil)
Fans, thermostat and basically the whole cooling system worked good. Lifted the reservoir up to get the air out, worked just good.
Mate was inside the car to look the revs and checking the stats in VAG-COM.
But... It was really hard to keep the revs between 1500-2000rpm and with a slight touch of the gas pedal it you could adjust it but it wanted to go over the needed all the time. When you lift the pedal just a little the rpm sank pretty fast.
When you take the foot of the pedal completely the idle RPM drops to 600-640 according to VAG-COM
What could cause this?
-vacuum issue?
-does not having brakes installed affect this?
All is torqued by the Bentley manual. I still have the steering rack and the brakes uninstalled (calipers off)
Videos from the startup:
Without plugs: [URL] .....
With plugs: [URL] ....
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I got 2006 vw passat 2.0, two weeks ago i replaced ignition coil pack on cylinder 3, and last Friday i replaced for second time same coil pack on cylinder 3, and today i got check engine, and it gives me a misfire on cylinder 3, it always giving me misfire on cylinder 3, the coil packs are all 4 new, i bought from a dealership, the other three coil packs does not give me a check engine, when i start the car, i feel little shaking, so what else i can do to fix this problem.
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I have an 06 F150 with 31K miles, with the 5.4 V8, and recently experienced an engine misfire condition, caused by two stuck open fuel injectors. The dealer fixed everything back, but, said its not covered like the 05's, so I had to pay.
Why the 06 5.4 with the same problem as the 05's, is not covered? Seems to me like Ford still has a problem with stuck fuel injectors on the 06.
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I'll try to break this down as best I can. I went to my mechanic this am with a check engine light. My suspicion is 02 sensors. This was confirmed as a problem area, but separate they said I had a spuratic misfire in cylinder 4. With that info, i pulled the plug to inspect (I had just installed new ngks in it and they have 18,000K on em.
I put beldon wires on about 8k ago.) plug looked to be normal, but there was definitely a puddle of oil from the valve cover leaking. Oil went into the cylinder head but I didn't really think that was an issue. Nothing abnormal jumped out at me so I reinstalled plug and checked all wire connections at both ends and called it a day.
Then I drove it. Check engine light flashing. Major performance stutters, etc. I drove it for about 20 miles and hoped it was just the oil raising hell in there and it would burn off eventually. It hasn't gone away yet. Maybe coil pack. Can the single portions of that pack be replaced, all i see them sell is the full three as a unit.
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I'm having an issue with a 2008 Passat 2.0T. Engine ran rough one day and check engine light came on! I get the VagCom out, scan the ECU and get misfire on cylinder #2 and #4. Car has 109 000km. Plugs were never changed so I order some new OE Bosch platinum iridium plugs. Go for test drive after having change the plugs and I still get misfire on both cylinder number 2 and 4.
I know coil on plug are prone to be weak on those engines so I go ahead and order 4 new coils which are pretty low cost which is good. Once install on the car I go again on a test drive. car ran really smooth and no check engine light came on. I said fine! I fixed the problem only to discover the day after that the CEL decide to come back on I scan again and this time only get misfire on cyl #2 with fault frequency of 39.
I suspect my injector to be bad but before I decide to remove the intake manifold and spend another 2-300$ in parts. Any way to test my injector with VagCom in order to see if that really is my problem. Also heard the PCV could be a problem but i hardly doubt it would throw a fauly code on just one cylinder.
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I just received a check engine light and the diagnostics from dealer were that a misfire was detected for cylinder 1 , 2 , 3 and 6 .
What needs to be changed? and mechanic said maybe the complete coil pack and wiring . Although, the code was reset and i haven't had the CEL come on prob in a week now , so i guess no other misfire has happened.
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I have an 01, early model, AWD Passat wagon, v6, GLX and when I accelerate from a standstill or a slower speed, the car hesitates slightly and coughs(?) and then catches on and accelerate. It doesn't actually backfire or misfire.
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Got the flashing check engine light and loss of power for few seconds and then the light stayed still, from time to time it blinks for few secs, usually when I push the gas pedal little bit more but it stays still, flashed only twice in 2 days for seconds. I connected computer (not VAG) and it says "Cylinder 4 misfire". I have app scheduled with my mechanic this Thursday, but still need to commute to work. Is it safe to drive?
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I'm having problems with my accent, is been running not so good , and had a check engine light, indicating a misfire cylinder 3 and 4, i was told to put a can of Seafoam on the gas tank, but that didn't work. I replace the spark plugs (not the wire) and air filter and still running bad. Is not happening all the time (check engine light) but you can tell is running ruff at all time. I don't know if I need to change the spark plugs wires. I don't think is the spark plugs wire, they don't look bad or damage.
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My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
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I have a 2005 f150 with 96,000 miles. Long story short, last August I was headed to the mountains going up a steep long hill and the engine light come on. once i was over the pass the light went off. During my 4 wheelin' trip it never came back on until I was headed home and going over another pass and then it stayed on for a couple of days. I had it checked and it was a cylinder 5 misfire. I did some research and found that replacing the coil cover might fix the problem and if not the spark plugs would need to be changed.
I changed the coil cover, problems solved... until I headed to the mountains. light came on and then eventually went off later that day. I didnt think much of it. then a few months later i was headed to the mountains again and the light came on in the same place on the steep incline hill. I. took it back to the shop, same reading. I decided it was time to replace the spark plugs anyways so I would invest. I have new plugs and everything is good however, I had no plans to go to the mountains in the near future. Now, a few months later I headed to the mountains and crossed my fingers it would not come on but it did.
I've done the research again and it seemed like the coil cover and spark plugs are usually the cause of the problem...however I have changed mine. The light is now off again. I don't understand what is triggering the problem and what is really happening and if it is safe to keep taking to the mountains with this happening. I did notice that everything was fine at 60MPH but once i hit the hill and steeped on the gas to go 65 and hit 4-5RMP that is when the check engine light came on...
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Im trying to chase down an engine miss fire on a 2007 with the 5.4L. It only seems to miss under no-load conditions, such as at idle and on a downgrade while driving. Acceleration and under a load it runs fine. New Champion plugs were installed at 135,000 miles. The truck now has 150,000 miles and has only been miss firing for the last 1,000 miles or so. I pulled the connector off of the coils one at a time to try and figure out which cylinder/s were missing. I thought I found the problem ones and replaced two of the coils, but it ended up not fixing the issue. Ive tried spraying carb cleaner at and around the intake to check for leaks, but found none. I have a scanner, but the check engine light is not on, so its not much luck.
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I am getting ready to put new axle shaft u-joints in my 2008 F350 (they are shot, they actually rattle on my rough roads). While I am at it I figure I will grease the front wheel brg cartridge, replace the needle brg that is inside the cartridge. I am also afraid I will the axle shaft vacuum seal. I don't want to go to ford an get raped, diesel O-rings doesn't have parts for the newer pickups and I don't want to get junk from the parts houses. Where I can get these parts for a reasonable price? What the best brands are? Are they the same parts as the earlier super duties? I know the lock out is different.
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I have a 2002 Passat 2.0L petrol (130bhp AZM Engine), with single DIS Ignition coil pack. The engine warning light came on with a misfire whilst doing 40mph (no previous warning or indications of potential problems), which is present at all engine speeds. I had the code read, indicating a misfire on cylinder three. I have completed the following checks:
1) Cleared the codes and restarted engine.
2) Replaced the spark plugs with new ones.
3) Old spark plugs were in good condition with no oil, no deposits and the electrodes in good condition.
4) Checked HT lead condition and found no corrosion, a tight fitting cap and no damage to cable.
5) Earthed the HT lead and have strong spark when engine turns over.
6) Checked the injector electrical connections with a bulb tester and all is fine.
7) Removed the fuel rail and extracted cylinder 3 injector.
8) Performed a visual inspection of injector with all looking good and no blockages at the jets.
9) Tested the injector on the bench using a 12V battery to ensure it opens and closes correctly.
10) Replaced the injector in the rail and turned the engine over to check for blockages, with all injectors operating.
11) Swapped cylinder 3 and 4 injectors (misfire still on cylinder 3, no change)
12) Inspected fuel and air connections and ensured no leaks.
13) Checked the engine oil condition with no evidence of water contamination (head gasket).
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Car :1.8 20v SE 1999 passat adr engine .....
1st prob#: whilst at stand still, in neutral gently accelerating to approx 1100 rpm the engine will rev up/down all on its own, pedal remains steady
2nd prob#: car also has intermittent misfire. I checked the coilpacks using water mist & definite arc/spark
3rd prob#: car has definite judder ,felt through heel/knee kinda bouncing /vibration sensation seems to happen at 35+, light throttle, constant speed, can acc through but thinking all probs related.
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