Passat (B6) :: 2008 - Speedometer Reading High About 4 Mph
May 15, 2008
Just purchased a 2008 2.0T Passat wagon, lux version. I believe my speedometer may be reading high by about 4 mph. I seem not to be keeping up with most of the traffic (assuming they are driving close to the posted speed limit). Not sure how to really check this out, but assuming the mile markers on the interstate are accurately spaced one mile apart, at 60 mph it should take me 60 seconds to cover the distance and at 70 mph it should take me 50 seconds to cover the distance. If my thinking is correct and upon doing that I find that it takes me about 66 seconds to cover the one mile at an indicated 70 mph on my speedometer
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Is my thinking correct and/or is there another way to check? Have never been able to find a shop that has calibration equipment so I just resort to this method.
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My New (weeks old) 2011 SF GL V6 speedometer reading is way to high. I've confirmed this with my GPS. My last 2 cars were Honda`s - one with a digital speedo (Civic) amd they were both bang on with the GPS.
So, my issue is why is the speedo so far out - 10%. I have to drive 110 km/h for a 100km/h on the GPS. On the positive side - I'll never get a speeding ticket.
But to all of you that claim to drive at 75mph and get 25mpg - I'm guessing your really traveling way slower. What can be done. In this day and age a calibrated speedometer isn't asking for much.
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Is there a way with VCDS to adjust the speedometer reading to match my GPS? The reason I am asking is that I have the wrong winter tire size on my car (205-55-R16) and the difference is 15km/hr more the I really drive.
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On the way home from my first weekend trip in my '04Screw, I noticed the speedometer did not agree with my GPS, which was sitting ontop of the dash. The speedometer was reading 2-3 mph faster than the GPS.
The truck was taching about 2,000 rpm .. speedometer read 72-73 .. and the Garmin III+ GPS read 2-3 mph less than the truck, tracking 8 out of 12 satellites, and varied between 68 and 69 mph.
My Lariat does have 18 inch tires. I don't have a clue if that caused the difference.
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Several years ago, a tree limb fell on out Dodge Neon, breaking the windshield. At that time, the dash gauges worked fine, and continued to for at least a year. Then, every once in a while, the speedometer would just go dead. no mph reading, and the odometer would not register either. over the last several years, it has become more prevalent, and is not not working more than it is. the other gauges are also intermittently failing to read as well. the scariest thing, is when it does come back, the air bag light comes on for about 5 seconds! which to me means there is a possibility that if we were in an accident, they might not work at all.
I believe the dash circuit board is cracked, and this is why this is happening. If the actual dash has to come out of the car, which is what i have feared all this time, it will have to stay that way until we get rid of the car. i can not lay on my head (upside down with my head under the dash) for hours on end trying to find and remove all 40 bolts or plastic clips or darts, or what ever they use these days to hold a dash assembly in. How to replace that board (gauges)? Can it be done without removing the dash? i have a Haynes service manual for it, but we all know how bad those are. I would like to repair this, but i can not afford dealers labor rates, and my luck with home grown shops has been poor at best.
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Does the Touareg have the 10% error in speedometer reading like my GTI does?
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My speedometer reads accurate only till around 45 mph. The needle begins to float around gently, and the faster I go, the more discrepancy it reads. It may hang a while, floating around 60 and the speedometer app on my phone says I'm going 74.
The speed sensors were replaced for another issue a year and a half ago. The dealership initially wanted me to put a new transmission in it for $3800 after they said the trans was slipping past 45. Then they said something instead about a valve plate (could be wrong vernacular) for $1000 instead of an entire transmission.
When I finally told them that my cruise control is completely erratic, trying to track the needle movements with upshifts and downshifts, they said it's $200 in parts for the drive gears and that they were made with plastic that can wear out.
So I said I would sit on it, since the ideas about the issue seem to vary greatly, and my father set me up to go to a transmission shop to have the car checked out. They had it for two days and changed the fluid out but we can't fix your speedometer issue... take it to the speedometer shop, but btw we think your transmission is fine.
Now, do I take it back to the dealer for the drive gears, or do I take it to another specialist? I have seen people say all it needed were the drive gears replaced and a new sensor. My odometer seems to still be working. There is no issue with my gas gauge.
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How to fix a speedometer reading fluctuation? When I am driving about 45 mph the speedometer will drop to zero (RPM does not change) and then will bounce. Some times the speedometer will remain at zero other times it will bounce back to indicating speed.
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 automatic with 143k miles on it. Recently I've run into a problem with the speedometer and RPM gauges dropping down to 0, no reading. It is an intermittent problem and has no logical connection to any of the other functions of the vehicle (it can happen while the car is idling, in motion, upon startup, etc etc.) Everything else on the instrument cluster works perfectly fine, (odometer still reads correctly and works, gas gauge is fine, etc). I'm thinking maybe it is an electrical issue since the car seems to be in fine working condition other than that, even when it drops out. The gauges won't start reading again until I start the car up...and sometimes that is not a guarantee. I use this vehicle to commute locally 4 days a week and I've already put a lot of money into new components for the vehicle.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE V6, It has 15 inch stock wheels on it
If I go to a larger wheel, is it possible to change the wheel speed so that the speedometer reads correct? If I have read correct, the stock offset is +45 and the lug pattern is 5x114.3 and a 6.5inch wheel?
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Got a weird one today. Everything was fine all day. Got the old girl smogged this afternoon and made one more quick stop. Got back on the freeway and up to speed and looked down. Speedo said I was 90? Yeah right. I was going with the flow.
So I plugged in my bluetooth ALDL dongle and fired up OBD Link. Well, OBD Link showed normal and accurate speeds. As did a second app on my phone for giving speed. So my VSS must be working correctly.
So my speedo is showing about 25 over actual. When the ignition if off the needle sits between 20 and 25. so did my speedo take a dump? Is there anything else I might try to see if it auto-calibrates?
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The 19.5" wheels are not an option on the 2013 F-450, unless you order a Chassis Cab. I'm certain many have made this change. My question is can the dealership make the necessary changes so the speedometer correctly measures the vehicle speed?
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The outside temperature is reported inaccurately by your C? I now automatically deduct 5 degrees from whatever my C tries to tell me is the temp. I may mention this at my 5,000 visit to the dealer because I'm wondering if the sensor is placed too closely to something creating warmth. But....it's definitely reading too high.
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This is kind of a strange (minor) issue, but I noticed just recently that the outside temperature reading on my 2012 Sonata GLS is registering about 10 degrees hotter than the real outside temperature. This is driving down the road, not parked in the sun. It showed 91 degrees the other day as I was driving home from work, when the actual high for the area was barely 80.
My thoughts were that something was blocking or covering the sensor for the outside temp reading, but don't know where that sensor is located to check it...or if there might be some other way to "reset" the temp reading?
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The water temperature in my 97 3 liter Aerostar seems to be higher than I would expect when climbing a mountain road with the aircon on full. It was only about 75 degrees F and the elevation went from 300 feet up to 2,400 and the gauge was at 3/4 to the red zone.
I don't use aircon much here in the south Bay Area but as I recall the gauge on both my 96 and 97 Aeros was straight up during such climbs. The 96 is out of coolent so I can't compare it now.
The reason I'm rather concerned is we are about to leave on a 2,500 mile road trip with 4 people and lots of gear through Nevada and Utah and we'll climb a lot of passes in 90 degree heat or higher.
The mileage is about 135k and the water pump was replaced about 2 years ago. The radiator was replaced at about 100k.
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I was recently given my first Volvo. Its an 88 240dl. While driving my temp gauge climbs up to the red and sometimes hovers inside of it. It normally climbs up at stop signs and comes down on straight always then climbs right back up close to red. When the gauge was in the red i stopped the car and popped the hood open to see that the engine was not actually overly hot.
first i replaced coolant. nothing
then i replaced the thermostat. nothing
flushed radiator. nothing
Today i finally had enough and decided to switch out the water pump with a new one hoping that it would solve the problem seeing as it still had the factory one on. It did nothing. the gauge continues to climb up. I did replace one of the two senders in hope that it would fix the gauge reading but nothing.
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7L that has a temperature gauge on the dash that reads an overheat when driving. The oil looks normal, there is no white smoke, no bubbling from reservoir. I have replaced the following:
Radiator
Thermostat
Water Pump
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Coolant Reservoir Tank
I am not leaking any coolant and the reservoir level has been fine. I have let the vehicle idle for 20+minutes, with no overheat. When I drive it around, the temperature gauge will read an overheat. When I stop the car and pop the hood, the engine is not overheated and both rubber hoses to/from radiator are flowing the coolant. The only thing that will bring the gauge down is turning on the heater full blast. Could this be the gauge itself being bad? Could it be a short in a wire somewhere? I had thought maybe a head gasket, but have no symptoms of a head gasket.
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I recently (2 weeks ago) picked up my first Effie, a 2004 RN F250 Supercab XLT 5.4L 4x4 auto (dual Fuel Petrol/ LPG).
One of the things I am exploring is a problem with the tachometer reading high. I read on a thread somewhere on the forum that it was most likely that the earth of the tach plug was not connected. (It was a great thread but I can't seem to relocate it)
I am still chasing a workshop manual to get wiring diagrams, etc. In the mean time, where to locate the said plug/ earth connection?
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I have had issues for over a week now first problem check engine light not sure of the code but the mechanic said it was the spark plugs and vaccum leak hose (which I knew about the hose). $205.00 later replaced all 6 plugs and hose. Now today on way to work I'm getting that hesitation when in lower gear such as stopping and then accelerating it jerks some it was doing this alot before replacing the plugs.
We did a diagnostic code reader and it said the code P2402 I did read it could be my gas cap which I don't have a dealer gas cap on there now I did about 1 yr 1/2 ago but got a lock key gas cap instead. I have been doing some reading I would need to replace leak detection pump which apparently costly in repair.
BTW car has 119,000 miles I commute far from work 5 days a week. My car is very important part of my life! I did also read someone stated there was a recall on Mazda 6 wondering do I need to call the dealership to see if this is actual recall and I can cross my fingers get this fixed on them.
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1994 f150 with 4.9L I6; 180k mi.
Parked vehicle last night after using it uneventfully for work the day before. Upon leaving the house at 11:30 AM, I noticed that I'd picked up a new mechanical noise. Nothing major; actually wasn't sure I heard anything at all.
As I drove to the store, I noticed it was idling slightly unsteady...much less so than a missing cylinder. I resolved to check the high-tension connectors when I got home for security. I glanced down at the gauges to check and see if my oil pressure was good; I then noticed coolant temp reading "high normal."
When I got out, I noticed a small pool of coolant forming. I looked at where the puddle was forming...the radiator hose had come off! (Actually separate from the radiator connector, as one might do if draining fluid without using the petcock.) I popped the hood: no unusual smells. Nothing seemed abnormally hot. Placing a finger against the head was uncomfortable, but not painful. Spit expectorated upon the head did not sizzle.
I then called my wife, explaining the situation, and walked back home 2 miles. We then took the spare car, bought antifreeze, and added it about an hour post-shutdown. Where the car was parked seemed wetter than the light drizzle allowed; daubing a finger in it and tasting gave a slight sweet taste.
I tend to check my fluid every so often (not every day, though) and coolant was verified as "full" as recently as 100 miles ago. (I don't make a habit of crawling underneath, though, so I couldn't tell you if hose had been slowly backing off or not.)
As to cause: is it plausible that this could happen without foul play? There have been a few vandalism incidents in the neighborhood; it's also possible that I [peeved] off a neighbor recently. I'm not about to go any further than fixing, though, unless there's really no other plausible explanation.
As to the mechanical questions: How much damage was done? Did I "catch it" in time? What is suggested as far as repairs/maintenance? (I was planning on doing a compression test, and keeping a close eye on fluid levels over the next 1,000 miles or so.) Engine sounds completely normal.
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