Passat (B6) :: 2008 - Slight Idle When Sitting At A Stop Sign
Apr 18, 2012
I just purchased a 2008 passat, 2.0T 6spd manual last night and I noticed today, when sitting at a stop sign it has slight idle issues, (goes up about 200-400rpms) then back down to normal idle. Doesn't seem to be causing any issues, its just pretty annoying, and everyone next to me thinks I'm trying to race them.
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Strangest thing! Yesterday on my way home was coming up to a stop on this back county hwy. My car started to buck or hesitate of some kind as i stopped. It was bucking while I sat at the stop sign. Then I released the brake a little to roll forward, and it stopped.
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So after a decent drive when I get to a redlight / stop sign / etc the truck will idle rough and shake but giving it a little bit of gas (1k RPM) seems to smooth it out however it doesn't throw any codes or the CEL. The truck is a 2008 F150 with the 5.4 and 90k miles.
I've searched quite a bit on this issue and I can't seem to find any real fixes other than swap parts out until something works and I've heard everything from filters to cam phasers or low oil pressure (I will be taking it to the mechanic to check the oil pressure)
so far I've:
Replaced the air and fuel filters
Changed the oil and oil filter (synthetic and OEM filter)
cleaned the MAF and cleaned the throttle body
also is 2008 equipped with an IAC Valve because I've read that it wasn't and I can't seem to find the IAC if it is.
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I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
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Last week I was changing the oil on my wife's 2004 Camry (130 000 kms). I noticed quite a LOT of corrosion around the positive and negative battery terminals.. so I decided to clean them.
I removed the negative without any problems but I could not get the positive off. I decided to use a hammer to move the connector back and forth. I was surprised with how much force I had to use to break the connector free.
Once I replaced the oil I tried to start the car but it would not start. I check the voltage and I was down to 10 volts. Obviously I had damaged the battery in getting the positive terminal off. A quick ride to the auto parts store and I had a new battery.
I installed the battery and took the car out for a spin. The car drives normally but it will NOT idle after it has been warmed up. If I come to a stop sign, the car will idle low and stall.
I have already verified that the battery is at full charge and the battery is being charged when the engine is running. No 'Check Engine' light has come on.
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I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai santa fe 2.4l with 94k miles. when sitting at a idle it has a slight vibration in the cabin, feels like a slightly rough idle, when you drive the vibration is gone. I also had it throw misfire codes for cyl 2 and 4. I put in new plugs and changed the wires, coils are on the way. When the car is in drive and I put the parking brake on and walk up to the motor it sounds like it has a exhaust manifold leak, but I only hear it when in drive. I guess my question is, could this exhaust leak be causing the rough idle or will this be fixed once the new coils are on?
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I have noticed, in my 2012 Elantra with 32,000 miles on it, that my car is shaking at idle. I'll be at a red light or stop sign and the vibration is SUPER annoying. I have had it tested at a Hyundai Dealership. They couldn't "replicate the problem" and nothing it wrong with my car.
I may be trading this car in for the Veloster Turbo. I'm tired of how slow this car is. I know I sacrificed speed for gas mileage, but I have a question, does the Veloster have this problem as well?
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I got a 2002 sierra 1500 with a 5.3l. I just replaced both catalytic converters and y pipe. After I did this, I am having a few problems. First, when slow down to park or at a stop sign the idle drops way down and it dies. I cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, and ran a can of seafoam and a can of b12 chemtool through it. It did this for a couple of days and now when the idle slows down the "check oil pressure" light comes on before it dies. Then yesterday the "check oil level" light started coming on. Is this all related, would the low idle cause low oil pressure, where to start?
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I have a 2007 automatic jeep compass that is stalling. heres the thing, it only stalls when i am idle at a red light/stop sign. I also noticed it only stalls when its in drive. if i switch the car to neutral while stopped/idle it will not stall. i also notice this happens more frequently in the rain.
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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So, I have heard a little bit about the oil pump bolt issue. However, I am still confused. Was this issue fixed for the 2008 model and what are the symptoms? I changed out my valve cover last night due to a PCV valve failure. The car is running great except there is a slight rattling sound coming from the drivers side of the engine at idle. I know I left nothing around the car that could have gotten in the motor when the valve cover was off. This issue was not happening before changing the valve cover. What could be causing this noise, or is it typical for this motor?
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2008 golf city... So I bought this car about 2 years ago and the last couple weeks its had trouble starting and will sometimes stall out when your about to accelerate (from a stop sign) the mechanic I go to replaced the a couple relays under the drivers side dash, however I it hasn't made it better it actually made it worse as now it won't start at all the last 2 days. It rolls over and tries to start just doesn't. Its my only car and I already missed a week of work for it ( I commute ) I need it fixed. I believe the relays where the EMC is what he said number 249 I believe.
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This morning as I was driving to work, my truck hesitated as I tried to accelerate from a stop sign. I pressed the pedal and nothing, almost felt like it was going to stall. After about 3 seconds it started driving again and I had no further issues. It seems to only do this in the morning when it is cold. It has done this a couple of times before, but usually it recovers almost immediately. I had no CEL come on. 2007 F150.....
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My car sometimes at a stop sign may randomly shut off. I try to turn the car back on and it cranks longer than usual. Then it will turn on and my epc light will turn on. And my rpms would stay at about 10k to 11k. What's going on here? Only CEL light I have on is maf sensor and i have a bad abs module.
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Just bought a L/Certified pre-owned 2013 ES 350. I am shocked at how much the car vibrates and noise increases when stopped at a light or stop sign. I tried a 2015 ES 350 and the same thing occurs!! The dealership technician says everything is operating "to specification". This is a disgrace for such a high-tech, luxury car.
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I have a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon. I got gas this am, and on my 30 minute drive to work all was fine until I got into traffic or came to a stop sign. While at the stop sign the car started to lurch forward or even seemed to be up and down. The idle was fine, completely constant. It was like the car was hopping or wanting to push forward. It did not happen in reverse or neutral and the car was fine while driving. What this could be?
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So this morning on my way to work its pouring. Drive 30 min and while slowing down at the last stop sign the car stalls. Car wont start anymore. Not even trying to turnover. Damn TB must have snapped.
So I ended up pushing the car into my works parking lot. Luckily rain stopped by lunch time. I popped open the driver side TB cover just enough to see if the belt. The belt did not seem to have snapped. I was able to push down on it with some force. There was definitely tension on it. So I ask my buddy to try and start it. I could see the belt turning. Tried a second time to start and this time I would even hear the starter. all it would do is a clicking sound.
Is it possible the belt is really broken? I'm now thinking it might have jumped a tooth or something and now all my valves are bent. Car has 140k km. Previous owner said it was changed but could not provide any proof. I guess my question: is there anything else that would cause TB Failure symptoms. I mean the car stalled out. How could it not be the TB...
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I have gotten a STOP Brake Fault Service Manual warning sign on my car for a couple days and now my car wont start... no ABS light is on...
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Once warmed up, while sitting at a stop in Drive, there is what feels like an engine stumble every so often. Good guess is every 45-60 seconds, so it only happens once, maybe twice at long stops. There is a sudden change in pitch the engine, and the car - for lack of a better term - shudders. The thing I have noticed is that when it does this there is no indication anything has happened with the tachometer - RPMs hold perfectly steady. Additionally, there is no shudder when sitting in park or neutral, only drive.
I initially thought it might be an ignition fault, so when I replaced the balance shaft belt I also replaced the crank sensor. No change in behavior. I did some googling, which suggested the issue might be related to the EGR not closing properly. I changed all the vacuum hoses and removed the switching solenoid to test - it seems to be doing its job. I have not removed or inspected the EGR valve itself. However, because there is no symptom in engine speed and the sensation doesn't happen in park or neutral and only happens when warm, I am starting to suspect the transmission itself is the culprit - I can imagine if the torque converter quickly engaged and disengaged - and a little power made it to the wheels - the same result would happen.
There is nothing else odd about the engine or transmission. No codes. Runs like a top. Transmission always shifts perfectly. Fluid was changed two years ago, about 15,000 miles. What came out looked good as well. I'm okay with replacing EGR components, but I don't want to throw money at the problem unnecessarily. Maybe try driving around with the EGR vacuum hose pinched off or disconnected?
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A few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
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When my Camry is in DRIVE and sitting at a red light for example, my car will shake. It feels like it idles rough. If I put it in neutral the shaking goes away... only when in drive.
I took it to Firestone who mentioned I had a dirty throttle body. So I get this cleaned and the shaking has significantly reduced. However after a few months I'm back at square one. Dirty throttle body and care is shaking again. (Yes air filter is clean)
I noticed two things that I think might be contributing... After 5,000 miles my oil is pretty black and very low. (Time for an oil change) When I swipe my finger on the exhaust pipe, its really black but no black smoke comes out. I don't see any oil leaks outside of the engine, its actually pretty clean.
So two questions, is the low oil and black exhaust pipe normal? Why would my throttle body keep getting dirty?
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