Passat (B6) :: 2008 - Excessive Vibration When Accelerating Once Above 40 Mph
Jun 10, 2011
My 2008 Passat vibrates excessively anytime I am accelerating once above 40mph. Done balancing severally and bought new tyres yet problem is not abating. What else can I do?
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I have been reading about some folks are having those vibration at certain speeds... Recently I also started noticing some strange vibrations... It happens when I am accelrating and driving on curved road at speed 100KM and up... I still cannot detect the source of these vibration as sometime it feels from steeing column or front suspension frame... All I can say its really annoying. Also, mechtronics valve body soon will be replaced as it is driving my DSG really insane.
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My F250 6.4, 3.73 Crew Cab Short bed vibrates when accelerating from a stop with my 5th wheel on. The 5th wheel weighs 12K. It is a medium to high frequency vibration that is felt throughout the entire truck. It continues through the shift into 2nd (TorqueShift Tranny). The harder you accelerate the more you feel it.
It does not occur if truck is unloaded and you accelerate at full throttle. Is this normal or should I get it looked at?
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I recently acquired a 2014 Sonata Limited 2.4L. Don't know if its me or not but engine noise seems to be excessive in the cabin especially when I am accelerating from a very low speed, almost like something in the engine is loose. Had it at the dealership today for warranty work (seat belt) and recall work and asked the techs to take a listen when the do their inspection. They came back and said that the noise is coming from the electric fuel pump and that it is totally normal. Previous car I had was a 2011 Honda Accord Ex and it seamed quieter.
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Noticing excessive vibration when the AC is turned on?
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I bought 2015 Sonata SE, it was produced in April of 2015. It drives nice and overall its OK but it has an excessive vibration that gives me a headache. When stopped at light/traffic with AC on it feels as if I was sitting in a vibrating massage chair. The steering wheel and seat vibrates. When I shut off AC it vibrates less but still seems to be vibrating too much. I know that 4 cylinder will vibrate some but I did not expect getting a massage while sitting in the car. It does not vibrate while driving, just in idle.
I am so unhappy with it that I am ready to trade cars with my DH who drives 10 year old Accord with manual transmission that vibrates less than my brand new car. What do I do? I will be taking it to the dealer but would like to go prepared and educated. I did see some posts about ECU and TSU updates (whatever that means) but it seems that it applied to cars manufactured in 2014?
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Getting excessive vibration coming from the top of the glove box panel and also from the passenger seat? I took it to the dealer because it was making a vibration noise, but they fixed the noise, but the vibration continues. What it might be?
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I am having with our 2010 Santa Fe GLS (2.4L). Whenever I am stopped and in gear, I have an excessive about of engine vibration IMHO, my wife thinks not, but it just doesn't feel right to me. I can feel it in the seat and people sitting in the passenger side and in the back can also feel it. If I bump into neutral or am accelerating, the vibration goes away. I have no issues with hesitation or loss of power and no other issues/check engine light, etc. This has been happening since we purchased the vehicle, and I mentioned it to the dealer and was given the response that the engine needed sufficient time to be broken in...... I now have 15,000 miles and it still is an issue.
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I installed new plugs and ignition coils in my 2008 Passat 3.6L V6 and now I have a slight bog when accelerating hard. Engine runs good otherwise and no codes. I gapped new plugs @ 1.0mm per manual. The old plugs had smaller gap. Would larger plug gap cause the bog?
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Bought a brand new 2012 Prius in California - Power Toyota in Irvine. It was heavily raining so did not test drive. Package 3. Next day noticed that there was excessive road feel and buzzing like vibration.
Took the car in and they noticed it too. Changed Goodyears to Yokohoma, checked suspension and tire pressure. Issue did not go away. It is subtle but constant.
Dealership said there is nothing wrong with the car and every car drives differently. Offered to change car with me taking a hit of 5000 dollars.
It is like driving on a stone like rough surface with a buzz like vibration.
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When @ a light or stop sign the car vibrates excessively to the point it makes my daughter sick. I do feel it vibrating but it doesn't bother me but something is definitely wrong. There are no engine lights on, I can hear the top end tapping and clattering, I did check the valve clearances which seem to be barely within specs. She says it vibrates worse when the tank is full. She also said when the tank is full the front end shakes driving down the road. I'm kinda wondering the front end shaking with a full tank might be the rear struts.
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My 01 Echo coupe vibrates at idle and when running. I changed all mounts, with OEM ones,,,changed the bent cross-member, installed new rack and pinion, new bushings, terminal, bushings...and still the lil guy vibrates like a rattle snake tail.
I noticed that time chain is a bit slacked... what may be the culprit for that vibration, you can feel the vibs at gas pedal, dash and steering wheel.
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My 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
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Okay, so I'm now up to 154,000 miles on my '08. Not doing too bad replacing the the intercooler, starter, rear brakes (3rd set), rotors, front brakes (1st set at 135k ) and some other regular maintenance over the last 30k or so. Started getting some vibration under the front between 15 and 35 mph a couple of months ago. Felt a little slop in the cv area so I replaced the axles. Still getting the vibration, moreso when it's cold than warmed up. Put it up on the rack and feel some serious slop on the passenger side where the shaft enters the trans. I think the bearing in the trans might be the culprit. I'm struggling finding information on pulling the trans and doing a rebuild or even general parts replacements.
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My W8 has a noise problem that's getting worse. I've had the tires replaced and had the dealer look at it. My dealer thought the rear rims were bent, but the noise definitely comes from the front end - I'm pretty sure the passenger side. What this could be? I'm thinking bearings but when I jacked the car up there was no play in either front wheel. Had the tires rotated and the noise didn't move.
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I have a 2" ball mount and a 2" ball from my previous vehicle. That vehicle was equipped with a 2" receiver as well.
Recently I had been pulling a few stumps in the front yard...nothing major, but this was the first time the ball mount has been used in my '06. So I noticed that there is some excessive (to me at least) space between the mount and the receiver on the truck. This causes some rattle between the two. I know there are collars out there that I can use to remove the rattle, but my question is...have others of you noticed the same? Do any of you have excessive play between the mount and receiver?
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Feel there is excessive road noise on the highway? (not wind noise)
Seems as though it can be worse depending on the surface. Comparing the B7 to the wife's Q5 is painful. Heck, even my MKVI GTI was silent compared to this. What do you all is a good fix?
Tires? If so, what would be a good upgrade? The P Zero Neros on the GTI seemed pretty good. I'm new to car tires. Long time Jeeper. Dynamite under all carpet?
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I have a 2008 RX350 AWD with only 500 miles on it so far and I am starting to get concerned about what seems to be excessive slipping or a delay in response in the trans. Under normal forward driving the trans seems to shift very smooth. The problem occurs under situations where I am coming to a near stop, basically coasting, and then have to accelerate again to continue forward. This could be in a slow moving traffic type situation or when maneuvering through a parking lot. When I try to execute a small increase in speed the engine revs but the trans doesn't respond.
It's as though it's in neutral and unable to decide which gear it should be in. After a 2 to as long as a 5 second delay it finally engages and moves forward. The condition is even worse if I am heading into a slight incline. Once it is engaged everything is fine and the subsequent shifts are very smooth. When starting from a complete stop it works perfectly. I've never had a transmission slip this much in any vehicle. There was one situation where I was almost broadsided because the RX delayed in moving forward.
I realize this is a subjective call but I am trying to determine what level of slipping in the trans is considered normal under the conditions I've described. I have searched and read past threads about issues with the earlier model years but I thought they were resolved by now. I haven't taken the RX in for service yet but I fear I will get the standard - everything is working as designed - answer from my dealership.
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I just heard a dyno operator explain a dip in torque from 1500-2500 rpm as being that the auto box disengages due to excessive torque to prevent damage.
this is for a chipped passat B6 1.8TSI (I know guys in the US dont have this engine) but hardware nonetheless should be similar is there such a feature for the B6 autobox to disengage or pull power in order to protect itseld due to excessive torque?
2ndly, does a dyno even read accurately WOT from 1500-2500 rpm?
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2007 3.6 Wagon Sport. My wife has the 18" Samarklan wheels and automatic transmission. We have complained to the dealer since the beginning with only the "you need new tires" response. Well we got new tires last year and the noise was the same. I've had 18" on my old '00 S4 and current '00 A8 with nothing near this amount of noise.
The sound is most like a groan and doesn't seem to be coming from the engine. It's seem most noticeable at lower speeds coming/coasting to a stop, but does not seem to vary with or without braking. It doesn't seem to vary based on turning either.
I don't ride in her car much, but am always shocked how loud it is when I do, as it's so dramatically louder. Also the HVAC 'percolates' constantly which is generally only noticeable at idle. This is a small, secondary concern. I everyone's Passat really this loud?
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Last week when we were in the single digits outside my 3.6 SE took about 15-20 sec of cranking to start (garage kept). Then the check engine light came on (2nd time in 10 months). I drive a lot (80 miles a day), and have put 19,900 miles on since I purchased it in March of 2012. The light turned off after three cycles, but I just so happen to have my 20,000 mile service scheduled so I took the car in. The hard start still is happening every few start ups.
The dealer told me the hard start issues I have been experiencing was due to excessive carbon build up on the valves. The dealer said they haven't seen many "high mileage" 2012 3.6 come through, so they could not tell me if this is common.
I use Shell 93 octane for every fill up. Is there something else I should be doing to prevent this carbon build up? Any others seen this with their higher mileage 2012 3.6? BTW they also had to replace the right rear control arm due to one of the bushings being worn out!
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