Passat (B6) :: 2008 - Engine Was Cutting Out At Higher Speeds - No Compression
Nov 16, 2013
Initially I brought the car in for repair because the engine was cuting out at higher speeds so they replaced all 4 coil packs and did an oil change.
After 50+miles of driving it was taken home. Later on we tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. The car has power and it cranks.
We then bring it back to the shop and they say there is no compression. I suspect conventional oil was used.
Would the wrong oil cause my problems? 2008 VW Passat Turbo...
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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2008 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T... I am trying to figure out whats going on with my car for a few weeks now. I have a few things going on and I am not if they are related.
First off I am hearing a odd noise now and then from my engine area. Its so hard to explain, but its kind of like when a plastic bag gets stuck to your car, a fluttery higher pitched noise (and it lasts only a few seconds). It happens now on heavy acceleration (almost always), normal acceleration and even sometimes at start up. Its mostly random and started awhile back but I use to only hear the sound every couple weeks. Now its daily.
Related or not I also have noticed this really bad lag with heavier acceleration, after lagging it then down shifts VERY hard before taking off.
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So I've had my B6 7 months now with no major problems (other than a blown head light bulb, which was repaired under warranty) - until now....
So when I'm decelerating from higher speeds (55mph +)...say for a stop light or to turn....around 30mph....my car occasionally shifts down hard. Not enough to make me stop driving and call a tow truck but definitely enough to make me to notice.
It's only when shifting down and it's just started in the past month or so. Before that the car has performed beautifully...shifting like silk. My car is a 2007, auto 2.0T with almost 20k (had 4k when I bought it). It happens when I decel slow or have to stop real fast. It seems like there's no rhyme or reason to it.
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I've had my 07 HD F150 into the dealer a few times for this issue and they have not been able to repair it. When I use the brakes especially at higher speeds you can feel them turning like a warped rotor, sometimes it will make the steering wheel shake. It does it with both my summer tires (22") and my winter tires (17"). Even at slow speeds you can feel it.
The dealer keeps checking and says that the fronts are fine, last time they machined the rear rotors and said it was fixed. To me the fronts look pretty grooved but they keep saying they are fine. Which didn't make sense to me. The truck stops well and has good feel and power but I get this warped rotor feeling. Is the dealer missing something?
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My 2006 3.6 awd has developed a propensity to roughly downshift when braking at higher speeds particularly on inclines. The VW shop cannot replicate the problem, but a tech is driving the car for a few days. What might be the cause of this?
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I've been hearing a faint but rapid ticking noise when taking faster exit/clover-leaft style turns (usually ~40mph). I think it's the ABS or traction control on the verge of kicking in because if I push it a little harder I do get the flashing traction control light on the dash, but the ticking is happening before that light comes on.
I'll ask the dealer when I do the courtesy 30 day inspection... I'm at the end of the 2nd week of ownership with 200 miles right now, so I'm still getting used to the car. (2013 Passat TDI SEL). Loving the 40+ mpg on my rush hour commute!
I did a search and didn't find anything on the B7 forum that might explain this noise. I don't think it's a CV joint since the car is new, it happens when going around these style turns either way and only seems to happen at higher speeds. I suspect it's just that the traction control is sensitive (or maybe I haven't scrubbed the tires enough yet to get good contact).
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Picked up a 2001 Passat today, it doesn't run. At first I thought it was a timing belt and I was prepared to fix it, but it's NOT the timing belt.. The belt looks good. The car turns over with no interference, I took the valve cover off and everything looks fine. But, the engine has ZERO compression.. it turns over with ease, and a compression tester doesn't even register. The car has the following codes:
16486 P0102 163
Mass Air Flow Circuit -G70: Low Input [Sporadic]
16395 P0011 035
A Camshaft Position (Bank 1): Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance
16712 P0328 163
Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 -G61: High [Sporadic]
16717 P0333 035
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Bank 2 -G66: High
17733 P1325 035
Cylinder 1-Knock Control: limit attained
17735 P1327 035
Cylinder 3-Knock Control: limit attained
17734 P1326 035
Cylinder 2-Knock Control: limit attained
16725 P0341 035
Camshaft Position Sensor (A) Circuit Bank 1: Range/Performance
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So I just got a bunch of work done on my car: the timing belt, spark plugs, serpentine belt and water pump were just replaced. I had the oil changed, the fluids changed, new front tires, and an alignment all about a month ago, but now every time i turn my car on there is a squealing noise coming from my engine (i assume a belt). Then when i get to higher speeds the entire car shakes, but more so on the drivers side. I have also noticed my brakes just starting to squeal as well, but the shaking was occurring before that. What it might be?
2007 Hyundai Accent GS
hatchback standard
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I have two simultaneous problems with my 2005 Elantra (automatic transmission). I don't know if the problems are related or not, or if they are alarming or not.
Background on the car: timing belt and water pump replaced in 2010; four tires new in 2010; oil changes every 5000 km.
The first is that my engine is making this 'whirring' sound when I approach 80km/hr. It's not high-pitched, but more of a droning noise. Having read around the forums, I see that Elantras commonly make funny engine noise, but this is fairly new to my car (145,000 kms) and definitely not there at all when idling or at low, city-street speeds.
Additionally, I have a weird vibrating noise coming from the front left of the car only when I am dead stopped and the brakes are fully depressed. It doesn't make this sound in park, and I don't hear it until the car has come to a complete stop; there is no odd noise while slowing down.
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My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
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I'll try to explain what the truck is doing best I can. I'm not sure if it's the engine or tranny. When you lug the truck on a hill or put a load behind it and lug it the truck jerks like the engine is cutting out or the tranny is jerking, I can't tell which. You can drive it all day long on a flat road or small hills and you can't make it do it. It does it worse going up a hill with a load behind it. You can lug the truck on a steep hill let off the accelerator and mash it back down and it will do it almost every time. I've tried overriding the overdrive and it still does it. If you keep the rpms above 2000 up a hill it won't do it. I've had it checked by a transmission shop and they couldn't make the truck do it. Also it doesn't throw any codes or put the check engine light on when this happens. 2007 F150 supercrew 5.4 auto, with 88,000 miles.
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Have a 2002 Yukon 5.3 ltr engine (155K miles) that likes to cut off at highway speeds. Usually happens after 4 or 5 hours of running at 70 to 80 mph. Strangely if I set the cruise control and do the same speeds, nothing... When it happens I end up coasting to the side at the roadway and sitting there for 15 or 20 minutes and it'll start right up and usually go the rest of the way. I've talked to a couple repair shops and they have checked service bulletins and have never been able to find anything. Will be driving to Connecticut for the 4th and not looking forward to being on 95 with the possibility of this happening again.
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I'm working on a 1987 Ford F150 that's cutting out at speeds above 45mph. The ignition system and fuel pressure checks out OK, but it still cuts out at speed. Today I noticed a new symptom and a rather bizarre one at that. If you slam a door or hood, the engine speeds up 500 rpm and then settles back down.
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So I changed my oil today and added about 9.8 - 9.9 quarts. There was just a little left in the second 5 quart jug. I carefully added some oil while checking the dip stick frequently. I made sure the level was just at (maybe a hair above) the top dot on the dip stick. After that, I went out for a spirited drive.
Now 4 hours later, when the car is relatively cool, I checked the level again. However, the level is now significantly higher than before. It's definitely past the top dot, not by a lot, but definitely more than before.
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Whenever I start my 99 passat a really loud vacuum noise is heard. along with the noise the engine idles higher than normal. when the noise goes away after a couple minutes it idles at the normal speed again... what the problem is?
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I just bought my new 2010 Prius the day before I went on a 300 mile trip out of state. Dealer showed me the eco mode, which sounded like a good idea to me. Drove on the expressway, about 70 mph, decided lots of power was not necessary and I wanted the best mpg so I put the car in Eco mode. Drove great for about 250 miles, then all of a sudden, I began to lose power. Fortunately, I was nearing a rest park. Pulled in, was there long enough to take care a Rest Park business, started back up and car ran fine. BUT I did not use Eco mode. Question: When should I use this mode and when should I not?
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Just hit a fantastic Minnesota pot hole. Have a slight shimmy now at higher speeds, feels like its from the rear. Don't see any obvious dents in the rim, what else could I have bent back there? I'm wondering if this is psychosomatic and our roads just suck right now or if I really damaged something.
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Ok so the brakes are new and for some reason at higher speeds, i feel the pedal vibrate as if its a bad rotor....gonna grease the pins and pads this weekend to see if theres a diff. But what gets me is that it Squeals as if the pads are shot as well in the front.
The title problem is that when i brake its smooth ish until 10 MPH where then it feels like the pedal goes to MUSH and i hear an ERRRRR sound as the car comes to a stop. it almost sounds like ABS/ESP while im sliding to a stop in the snow.... Expect there's no snow.
I don't have a high tech phone to record the noise. It never used to make this sound and i feel there is an actual problem.
I am gonna try flushing the brake system with new fluid, take the front brakes off and re grease everything. yesterday seemed to be the day my dash decides to light up like a Christmas tree...
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Getting some lateral movement when on straightaways at higher speeds, it's minimal but feels like the whole car is swaying a little side to side. The suspension feels great otherwise and cornering is accurate. My current setup is:
- Bilstein Sport Shocks and Struts
- Neuspeed Rear Sway Bar
- H&R Front Sway Bar
- Stock on the rest
I think this started when I added the front sway bar but am not sure, had the rear on long before adding it. Would upgraded sway bar end links work or make this more noticeable? Thought about trying to swap the stock front sway bar back in but that one is kind of difficult to get to. How to remedy this?
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But i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?
The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.
I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.
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