Passat (B6) :: 2008 - 3rd Gear Pumps Itself Up To Get Going?
May 9, 2011
Appears to me like third gear has to pump its self up to get going from the Beginning of the gear. With a steady half throttle acceleration its seems to push its self up to 25000 rmps than quickly surge back down a bit and then continue to run through the gear. I dont feel like its the turbo spooling *but very well could be* cause than i feel like i might feel it in other gears which i dont. This seems to happen in my o6 and my Mothers 08 ( B6 as well) both auto
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I have a 2008 passat komfort with 53K miles on it (TSI engine). I had the water pump replaced two weeks ago at the local dealer. After this procedure I am getting all gear shift lights on at the same time on the dashboard, after I drive the car roughly 8 miles. I would like to avoid going back to the dealer since I don't trust them.
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I've got an 89 F-150 dual tanks. Getting no power to tank pumps. High pressure pump runs good when key turned on. Have checked wires to fuel selector switch and no power there. Since high pressure pump is running I'm thinking there's a bad splice but how do you find where it is? On the wiring diagram it shows there's a splice (marked C277 just past inertia switch) but where is C277 located? Also, the diagram wire colors don't quite match my truck
Just FYI the wiring diagram doesn't quite match my truck. Not unusual I'm sure. The diagram says the power wire from inertia switch to high pressure pump and fuel selector switch is PK/BK (pink/black) but no pink black wire. There's a red/yellow wire that matches the size of the red one (red to fuel pump) coming off the selector switch. I'm guessing that's it.
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I have an unusual problem with my Sonata. Every time I fill it up with gas, the pumps do not shut off properly and gas spills all over the car and ground. This has been happening for the past several months. For a while, I assumed the problem was in the pumps themselves. However, it has happened with so many different pumps that I was wondering if it might be a problem with the car. Is there a sensor or a vent or something in the gas tank that lets the pump know when it is near full? If so, how do I fix it?
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1991 940 SE Turbo ... I am trying to figure out why there is no power to the 10 amp fuel pump fuse. Drove the car all day with no issues at all.. The next morning it just wont start. Found it wasn't getting fuel..I have replaced the tank pump thinking a shorted pump would disable the system, I have replaced the in tank Fuel Pump, Nothing. The fuel pump relay, Nothing, and pulled the under car fuel pump and checked it and its fine. I don't get it?? what could it be? I went to the library to get a copy of the wiring diagram, but the Chilton's Mechanic wiring bible was so smudged I could not even read it..
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07 Prius 140k miles. Flushed brakes at 132k miles with techstream directions [URL] ...... Follow the path without actuator or master cylinder removal. Went smoothly, no funny noises or codes after.
Brakes making multiple clicking / pump type of noise within last couple of months under these situations.
1. when nearing a stop
2. crawling along slowly with brakes on
3. backing up which is like #2
Braking force is fine and linear response. Brake fluid reservoir level is good. I'm thinking flushing it again.
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Need to replace fuel pump. How do I remove seat bottoms.
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I replaced my injectors n ficm, truck runs great. Now my wipers dont work. Turn signals, hi beams work. Got power at both fuses and they have continuity but no wipers or washer pump. Looking for a diagram for this? Is the motor located under the front cowl?
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I have a 1965 Chevrolet with the original 396 engine. When I purchased the car, I noticed the fuel pump was wet with fuel at the weep holes. I replaced the pump with a new one. This pump also leaked at the weep holes. I thought dirt may have been in the fuel tank and the check valves were stuck causing the leak. I installed a glass inline fuel filter before the fuel pump and installed another new pump. There is no dirt in the filter. This pump also is leaking from the weep holes. The pump only leaks when I give it full throttle and bring the car up well over 65 mph. I would like to retain the stock type of fuel pump. I'm wondering if the pump push rod is a replacement at some time and too long.
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Ranger wont fire! fuel pumps not pumping..... Jumped fuel pump relay and got both pumps working, but while jumping relay and cranking motor, still no fire. Plenty of fuel pressure though. got spark too. Replaced relay and no pumps working while key is turned to run or while cranking. I got to get this sweet puppy back on the tarmac...
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The pumps at times will function what appears to be normal. At other times the pumps will not stop running and it is at those times when the engine does not like to run.
I do not know if the engine will not run due to too much pressure or not enough fuel pressure. The problem is with both tanks and pumps so I do not believe the problem is inside either of the tanks.
One problem is that I just got the truck and the prior owner had at times done a little work and you know how that can be a problem. He could have done some damage to some hoses or who knows what. He had replaced the radiator and the left side exhaust manifold recently, though at different times. He thinks the problem started around the time he did the radiator. I know it doesn't make sense but things can get bumped or damaged.
What would the problem be that it could come and go? I drove it for a few miles and I thought that maybe the problem had gone away after I replaced what appeared to be a short vacuum line by the throttle body. But the problem still comes and goes. Now the truck is stuck till I figure the problem out.
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Ok, so in M mode shifts can be a little rough from 2nd to 3rd unless I give it enough gas. It's no big deal and my car has always been like that (owned it since 9/2013). But as of yesterday, shifts have completely changed from 1st to 2nd. It is clunky, extremely quick and lurches forward every time in M mode. It has NEVER done this before and it kinda sucks.
I've read all of the threads regarding tranny fluid, belt squeak, etc. and haven't specifically found anything like this. I haven't done anything to the car except the ELF recall and an oil change about a month ago.
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Starting here to ask first but I currently have the CEL and VSC light both lit and 1st gear is locked out. What is causing this without having the codes read yet? Is it common to get both of these lights simultaneously? Having 1st gear locked out seems very concerning from a mechanical aspect to me, should I have it parked till I get it serviced?
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My wife's 2008 prius with 145K miles occasionally won't stay in gear... I've read other posts about this and it seems it fits a scenario that others are having... get in the car, foot on brake, push power button, get the ready light, put car in drive... but when you release the lever, it goes back to neutral. No matter what she does, it won't stay in gear. She can drive the car if she holds the shifter lever in D. Eventually, she will let go of the lever and it will stay in D, sometimes after 1/4 mile and sometimes after an hour. There doesn't seem to be any pattern.
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I just purchased a 2008 Prius C Touring edition from CarMax. I have an appointment to bring it back but this may be a user error issue. My issue is that when I first hit the Power button the indicator light on the button goes green. When I hit it a 2nd time the light goes orange but stays on. When I shift to R or D it will shift to N but no further. I do have my foot on the break but the only way I can shift into R or D is to hit the power button twice more, to turn it off and back on. When it turns on the 2nd time, the indicator light on the Power button goes off. Am I doing something wrong?
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Yesterday I bought my first mk5 CW R32 2008. It has 51000 km and it is practically new.It has the dsg gearbox.
Now after watching lots of video on youtube, I noticed that mine do not show on the bottom right of the dashboard the selected gear like other do.
Is this an option that i should enable or what?
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We had 2 Trucks that had the reverse go out in the last month. What would be the cause ? Is there a defect in the Trans?
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I've never had this happen before, but today on my way to work during my first and second stop I noticed the car have a jerk when coming to the stop. I immediately thought it felt like the transmission was acting funny so I switched to the gear position view on the dash while at a stop light and noticed the car had placed itself into 2nd gear at a dead stop.
Some background info:
1) I only let the car heat up for 45 seconds max before driving.
2) The indicator light is just my TPMS or whatnot because I have Winter tires.
3) I have the common harsh shift when cold 1-2-3 until its driven for a few minutes.
4) It was -4 Celsius
5) I am in Normal Mode and never ever drive the car hard until it hits 2 bars on oil temp and then almost never drive it fast (why did I even buy an ISF?)
6) The car recently had its service done at Lexus (I denied the rear differential fluid change as I am getting this done at an independent garage.)All other services have been properly maintained since new.
7) The car returned to starting in 1st gear at stop after it warmed up. I am just curious to hear if this is normal or an indicator of a potentially larger issue down the road.
Also off topic but in my old IS350 in winter mode it stated the car in 2nd gear in snow mode. On the ISF snow mode still starts the car in 1st gear (online seems to show it start in 2nd? i.e. top gear etc quotes it does this.)
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I have a 2008 ISF at 41k miles. In stop and go traffic, or starting from a stop and driving causally ( not WOT or even medium throttle) the car will rev up before going into 2nd. It is like the feeling of rolling over a speed bump.
Also in normal or sport mode in D ( not M ) if I WOT , you can feel it jerk before taking off. I don't know if this is normal or not...
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My car ( 2.4L 2008 Camry ) is making a tapping noise while in gear and stopped. If I rev it slightly, start moving, or move it out of gear the noise will go away.
I was able to trace the noise to the hard pipes attached to the radiator for the transmission cooler. In particular the ~6in one that runs towards the center of the radiator.
A part of the body directly below the hard pipe was slightly bent up and hitting the hard pipe.
A quick way to verify this is the root cause of your noise is by getting a buddy (or chocking) the wheels with parking brake engaged then put the car in gear and manipulate the radiator. Be very careful when doing this I am not responsible for property damage or bodily harm due to this troubleshooting technique.
Pressing down on the top rubber isolators or putting some pressure on the fan shroud should stop the tapping noise.
On my car I persuaded the metal and added some foam strips to prevent to noise. If I press down on the radiator it sometimes will comes back. If this bothers me more I will need to pull the radiator and do a more thorough examination.
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My 2011 ISF has around 50K miles. Recently I noticed that when I shift into 1st from 2nd, usually on approach to a slower curve or slowing down to a light, there appears to be a distinct shudder. It doesn't happen all the time, and it happens regardless of Sport or normal mode.
Right after it shifts to 1st and the RPMs climb (or so it seems), I get 3-4 distinct back and forth movements .. i.e shudder. I think this is a recent phenomenon, as I know shifting into 1st is usually not very smooth, but I don't think I felt this shudder before.
No codes etc ...everything else normal. Don't think the trans is slipping, as car pulls hard and traction control is always busy. Motor mounts? Car is never tracked and driven spiritedly, but never ever abused or tracked. I do enjoy shifting it.
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