Passat (B6) :: 2008 2.0t Suddenly Turned Off
Nov 7, 2013
I have a 2008 Passat 2.0t 4-door. It has 35,000 miles with 12,000 of it coming in the last ten months. I always use 91 premium gas. The car has been running great but last night as I turned a corner the engine stopped.
All the lights work and after waiting a minute the engine turned over but after 20 seconds it stopped. The car was towed to my place and it stayed outside in temperature in the low 20's (F). With the temperature outside around 30 degrees the car turned on and stayed on for over a minute before I had to go to work.
Could the battery be the problem? I turned the car on and drove it for five minutes and it worked normally. The temperature outside is 54 degrees Fahrenheit.
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Yesterday on my way home my engine turned off. I had just turned onto a side street so i went to give it some gas. Nothing. I tried again and still nothing. I looked down to make sure i was actually pressing the gas and not the brake and and thats when i noticed that the speedo and rpm gauges both were at 0. They were still lit up and the radio was still on and the windows still worked. So i pulled over and a few minutes later i tried to start it back up and it started up fine. I have been driving it all day and i have not had any problems.
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I have a Passat 2.0 TSI 2008. Today after having lunch I tried to start the car to return to my office, but it didn't start. The lights dimmed like the power was draining. I tried again and no sign of a start and no lights this time. Called my insurance 24h assistance. They brought a spare battery and we connected it so as I could start the car. The started this time. Disconnected the spare battery, and left the motor running for 10 minutes. Instead of turning off the car, I decided to drive it a while to feel if everything was fine.
Well, the A/C turns on, but automatically turns off in a few seconds. The cruise control shows an exclamation sign and the horn is faint. When I stopped the car I noticed that the lights on the dash were kind of faint. Now, I am not sure I will manage to turn it on again. The battery seems to be on good shape. It has about 1,5 yr now and I could see that the indicator is green.
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Haven't driven the 2013 ES 350 very much yet but my Nav map has suddenly turned to black and white instead of the initial multiple colors, even during the day. What happened ... can't seem to find on the system how to revert back without going thru 900+ page book. Also, the map is showing some roads/hwys. with tiny circles (attached to each other) instead of the previous thick lines?
Radio, don't have the XM service but when listening to std. issue radio, sometimes and lasting maybe for 8-10 seconds or so, the radio suddenly sounds very "echoey" and more emphasized, it seems, from the back speakers. Then it reverts back to "normal" - only to do it again within the same 20 min. drive-time.
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While my car was idling in a CVS parking lot, the VCS, Red Exclamation in a triangle, Yellow Exclamation in a circle and the check engine lights all suddenly turned on.
In reading the forums, it seems the two most likely issues would either be the inverter pump (which I had replaced as part of the recall, and I see the fluid moving in the reservoir), or possibly a bad 12v battery (which I had replaced last year with the forum recommended Optima Yellow Top).
I checked for error codes, and there were numerous ones there at first, but I think that might have been related to the old 12v battery dying (I never reset after that). I cleared the codes, and no new codes are generating.
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Just had my 2015 ES350 for a week. Today when I was driving on the highway, all the sudden the audio display screen (no navigation) was turned off by itself, but I still hear the sounds from the speakers. all the buttons were not working. after few minutes, the display system seems reboot itself, then it was frozen at start screen with only shows the Lexus logo on it. until I pulled over and restarted the car, it was back to normal.
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I recently purchased a 2000 f250 with a 7.3. I'm new to diesel motors and new to super dutys so
Problem; had been driving for an hr and truck, which was running fine shut off like someone turned the fuel off. Check engine light came on, motor cranked but wouldn't start Back up. After an hr or so it fired back up and ran fine. This happened several times until now it will not start on it's own. I use a quick shot of starting fluid it fires right up and runs fine. Have run the truck for 1/2hr or so driving it and no issues except check engine light staying on. Shut it off and it will not start again without starting fluid, which I've only used 2x and sparingly. Generic code reader says no codes.
Is it vapor lock? Under valve cover plugs connection?
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I just ran into the weirdest thing i have experienced with Lexus cars. I was driving today to work and listening to music not blasting it, and all of the sudden the volume disappears. I try to turn, but the volume numbers don't even appear, so i turn the radio, CD on off nothing. I even tried to push the voice command but not only did it not have volume but the prompt message didn't even come on. I tried to set a destination to see maybe the navi might talk but no luck. checked to see if menu vol was on and it was at the highest. Then when i got into my car tonight after work it started working, but in a few min again volume disappeared.
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My Wife has informed me that her AC has suddenly quit working. There are no dash lights illuminated about this. I've been running 12 hour shifts this week but hope to check it out this weekend.
Are there any specific areas that I should look? And are there any AC problems that are common on a V8 Phaeton?
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Fully stock 2011 IS F. This past Friday I had the low engine oil level light come on. I immediately took it to the Lexus dealer Saturday morning. The tech said the engine was 2 quarts low on oil. The dealership offered to top it off for free since my interval had at least another 1500 miles left before a complete oil change. I opted to conduct a complete oil change instead and gladly paid for their services.
I even entered the service bay since the regular tech who works on my F wasn't there that day. I ensured the tech topped off the oil correctly and asked if there was any harm to the engine? He said absolutely not, the sensor did its job! No harm no foul...everything was good until last night...
I daily drive my F and you can say I drive my F hard. It was between 10pm and 11pm the ambient temperature couldn't have been past the lower to mid 80's. When all of a sudden my oil temperature started rising! And rising fast! I immediately let off the gas and began to worry. This has never happened! Not even on my previous F, which was driven in the same manner, and with straight pipes. I've had this F since January but I'm getting the feeling something is wrong and it's killing the joy of driving it freely.
I was in F mode and paddle shifting like I always do every night. I also could have sworn I lost power. I did a search and only ran into the F that was taken to the track, but the thread didn't really answer anything for me. Other than freak me out even more as one owner mentioned his F never goes past 3 bars! After a track session! I'm sure it was for 2008-2010 F as the gauges are different. I drove it conservatively this morning and opened her up a little and everything was fine. I wasn't in F Mode just sport and auto.
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My son bought a 2008 Fit new. At about 16K miles, the clutch suddenly started slipping. He barely made it to a dealer and it was replaced at no charge. Recently, the clutch suddenly started slipping again at ~32K miles. Before you say he's hard on a clutch, he drive a 95 Civic with no clutch troubles for over 140K before selling it to buy the Fit. He took the Fit to another dealer (he's in a different state now) and was told the clutch is OK, they drained some fluid out. Would excess fluid cause a problem -- after 16K miles?
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I have a MKV R32 / 2008 Model / 45,000km /
Over the past few weeks, since the temp has been blazing here in Okinawa, I've noticed it takes up to 10 minutes for the AC to actually kick in.
I don't think it 'just needs time to circulate freon' because at right around the 10 minute mark it suddenly blasts cold air. It's pretty darn annoying.
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I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
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The reverse gear in my F150 has started slipping all of a sudden, with no noise or notice. All forwards gears are functioning properly. If I rev up the motor in reverse it seems like it wants to go, but I get the wrench light/safe mode and it now has a P0720 code. I've done some research and replaced the Output Speed Sensor and replaced the tansmission fuild and filter. I cleared the codes once before I changed the sensor, and now my reader indicated the the P0720 is "Pending". Do I have to keep trying to use reverse? Drive it more? Plus it looked like after driving it today that I might have overfilled the transmission.
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Suddenly power windows wont work... Hopefully its just a fuse or something, going to grab the book to see where fuse block is and where this fuse would be.... I have rear and drivers window stuck open!
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Alright, I was driving back home from shopping and on the way I hear a ding. I look at the dash and notice that my engine light comes on. Luckily, It got me home and seems to be running fine. All I can think of is it may be a sensor or something small. The car isn't shaking or making any noise. It just turned over 5k and the dealership said everything was tip-top.
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-Thought I'd post a quick update on the reliability of my 2012 TDi SEL:
A few weeks ago I noticed the cranking speed had started to slow and then suddenly one day, after driving the car for an hour, it refused to start. AAA jumped it and it of course started great. Did some testing to isolate the issue to the battery and I finally took the car to the dealer who confirmed that the battery was bad and replaced it for around 200 bucks including labor.
The car reached 60000 miles around the same time.
After the battery was replaced, the car is back to its normal self and all is well now.
Edit:I should add that I am not *really* disappointed in the somewhat short lifespan of the battery. I live in a hot area (SoCal) and this is not the first car I've owned where the battery only lasted 3-ish years.
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2008 Prius. I just passed by 5K oil change by a 50 miles or so, so my maintenance light was on, but when I was driving it on the expressway today suddenly the red triangle light and check engine light came on, I immediately pulled over onto the shoulder and had it towed. These are the error codes that were showing up:
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Cruise control not working all of the sudden - This happened to me, and a web search led to a quick solution, would be the first place to check if you have the problem.
Turns out that if the third brake light (back of the cab) goes out, so does the cruise control. Don't know why. I replaced the bulb, and cruise works. I was fortunate that this super cheap fix worked for me. If your cruise control stops turning on, check that cheap little bulb!
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Last week, my 2005 FX4 Screw died suddenly, and would immediately lose all power to the gauges as soon as the jump leads were disconnected, not to mention the engine would eventually die shortly after that. After a bit of logical thinking, a buddy and I determined that it was likely the alternator, so we pulled it and replaced it. We also had the alternator tested, and it failed every single test, so it was pretty clearly the culprit. The good news is that the truck starts and runs/stays running again. The bad news is that my audio and 4x4 systems are both offline.
As far as audio goes, I'm guessing it's an easy fix because it's probably a fuse somewhere that got toasted. But the 4x4 is a little more of a problem. I tested the vacuum lines by pulling them from the hubs, and neither had any suction. Okay, the solenoid isn't getting power, probably another fried fuse, right? Well, here's where I'm getting confused.
My understanding of this 4wd system is that it works like this: When in 2wd, the solenoid engages the vacuum and pulls the part of the hub that locks in the wheels (not sure what specifically to call it) out, therefore disengaging the front 2 wheels. When 4wd is turned on, the vacuum disengages and that part of the hub pops into place, locking out the front wheels into 4wd.
So, by that rationale, if the 4wd solenoid isn't working due to an electrical issue, then my truck should automatically just be locking itself into 4wd, right? Because without the vacuum to disengage that part of the hub, it should just pop into place and keep the truck locked into 4wd. So if I'm correct in my understanding, then I have another problem because my truck is still operating very much in 2wd.
I did the classic 4wd tests: tight circle to feel the front end gripping/pulling, gun it from a dead stop to see if all 4 tires engaged. But I turned in a much tighter circle than 4wd would ever allow, didn't feel the front end grip/pull at all, and the "peel out" test only showed my 2 rear tires as launching me forward. I also tried shifting into 4-Low, but the truck never shifted into low gear either. -I know that's probably just electrical, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my testing/explanation.
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