Passat (B6) :: 2007 - Slight Hissing When Cruising At About 15 Mpg On Uneven Roads
Apr 4, 2011
I have a CPO passat and it drives like a dream, except when I'm cruising on city (NYC) streets at about 15 mpg on uneven roads. I'd recently noticed a very slight hissing sound coming from the front end. Ever threw one of those silent but violent hissing farts? Yeah it sounds like that. And I'm not even talking about bumps, just uneven roads like driving over a man hole cover. It's quite annoying and with the summer coming i want to drive with my windows down. I'm going to take it to the dealership, but I'd like to pinpoint the issue to them. oh yeah, it only hisses when the car is hot, so it's quiet right after a cold start.
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2010 Hyundai Santa Fe.
UPDATE: Ok-yesterday I was driving around RAFB on some uneven roads and I listened very closely as I drove over the minor road imperfections/small bumps. I did hear/feel a thumping noise. When I entered the smoother surface road leading to the exit gate-NO thumping. Bottom line: it doesn't bother me-when driving on bumpy roads I think you're going to hear a bit of suspension noise (IMO). I'd rather hear the thumping noise than a louder clanging/mechanical noise. I have the solaris 21 tires and that could be the thumping noise. Again-no big deal to me.
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07 LS460L with air suspension - Passenger side rear bump noise heard when going over potholes or uneven road. It feels like a bad bushing or shock tower mount.
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This morning i've been to toyota to do the regular service and to try to find that what is creating this noise on my front end ,they removed brackets etc and lube anti roll bar bushes and top mounts as best possible. Still the noise is there. We recreated the noise this morning by circling around at full lock multiple times . They said that if the lube would not solve the problem it could be the struts mount.
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Occasionally I can feel light jerking when cruising steadily at around 2200 rpm. for a second the rpms increase by ~50, not enough even to notice any change in speed, and then goes back where it was. it is as if the clutch was slipping.
My first thought was MAF so took one from a working car but problem did not go away.
A minor thing that may be unrelated: the transmission also sometimes doesn't set shiftpoints properly, i.e., when accelerating uphill, it would go from 1st to 2nd ok, then when it reaches the point to shift to 3rd, the 3rd gear stays only for a second or so, and then shifts to 4th.
So I disconnected the MAF sensor altogether and the problem went away! My conclusion was then that it must be the wiring between ECU and MAF, so checked the cables between ECU and MAF, found all resistances within spec (below 2.5 Ohm). Since the problem is intermittent, the resistance of the cables doesn't tell much.
Checked with vag-com and there are no codes. Where to go from there? 2003 AVH (auto)...
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The front struts n my 2010 camry se with about 51k on it and it makes a horrible clunk and pop noise when going slowly on uneven roads and over speed bumps. I got out to check the cause and found it to be he top of the strut coming through the strut mount is making the popping sound and seems like it has more than normal movement... does this happen to many? is it a common issue...
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I'm getting a "thunk" or "clunk" noise when driving over bumps/patched/uneven roads in my Elantra GT.
It's a hollow noise, I don't hear it unless I hit a bump/patch in the road. Doesn't have to be a large bump.
25k miles, Automatic Transmission. it almost seems to be one side (right) more than the other.
Is this a common issue for this model/year? What was the cause?
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I've had this "rattle" when going over uneven roads for about the past few months and I think I narrowed it down to the rear calipers. They are both tight, but it seems as though the "floating" ability of the caliper is loose.....does that make any sense? I mean you can grab the caliper and it'll make a rattling noise, but the bolts are tight..
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My 11 f150 started to make a jingle noise like washers in a bag while driving over uneven bumpy roads. Normal highways are fine and it does it turning or going straight. Seems to be coming from drivers side. I replaced the swaybar link ends with moogs. Didbt fix the problem. I also removed the bushings abd lubed them with white lithium grease. Still the same sounds on the same conditions. I did t replace the bushings with new ones. I still have a extended warranty on the truck. Might take it in...
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OEM plus. 93k. Um tune. Evoms intake.
Did the plugs and coil packs, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body (Did a vagcom alignment) as well as some other insignificant maintance.
Car ran fine for weeks after, but recently it has started to bounce around randomly at idle. Like 650rpm(normal) for a few seconds. Then it will Slowly climb to 800rpms, hold there for a few seconds. Then back down to 650ish for a few seconds, then back up to 800 for a few seconds. And so on. It's very subtle and very random. Then sometimes when accelerating, I can feel it in the gas peddle. Like a slight pulsing power loss. Very slight and of a similar rhythm to the idle issue.
I do have a check engine light for Load Calculation cross check-p1143-001 upper limit exceeded. But that has been a battle I have been fighting for a year or so, and I think that is some kind of vacuum leak, but this rpm issue just started a few weeks ago. The only thing I was thinking so far is that when I was doing the plugs and coil packs, I noticed that there was a slight bit of what looked like dielectric grease on each coil pack already from the factory. So I didn't put any more in the coil packs sleeve part that fits over the plug. So was that a mistake? And if it was a mistake would this be a symptom of that?
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I've had my 2010 Prius II for less than a month and am not particularly happy with it. I've experienced a slight surge forward when braking on uneven pavement at low speeds at least 4-5 times in 900 miles. This isn't something I can duplicate on demand. When I took it in to the dealer after the first time and asked if the ABS fix had been made to it, they told me my car wasn't part of the "campaign" (aka recall) because it was manufactured in March and the ABS problem had been solved by then. However, it sounds exactly like the problem people were discussing in Jan/Feb.
Once when I put it in reverse in a parking lot it lurched backward (my foot was on the brake) suddenly -- not far, but it was an alarming sensation. It also has a high pitched, barely audible whine when moving (can't hear it if I put on the radio). The mechanic said that was the normal sound of the battery, but I don't remember it from other cars I test drove. Is it normal?
I'm keeping an eye on the dome lights every time I park because I found them on one night (they'd probably never shut off after I parked the car during daylight hours) -- it could have been that the light was switched to "on" rather than "door," but now I'm paranoid and constantly check to make sure they're off when they're supposed to be, for fear of wearing down that little 12 v battery. Not fun.
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On bumpy roads, and on most highways, there is a slight humming/rattling noise to the bottom left hand side of the steering wheel. Its really only audible when there's no music on, which happens to be how I like to drive. I've tried pushing on some of the panels when i hear it, to see if it dampens the noise, but no leads so far.
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My es350 with 4000 miles makes slight hissing noise only in Reverse (without moving the car), the sound comes from under hood, and more like air leaking noise (AC off), not loud, I can only hear it when in my garage with radio off.
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Noticed my 2002 F150 had a very slight vibration in the seat / steering wheel when cruising down the highway at 60 MPH.. Very slight, but was not there 2 weeks ago.. It seem to get a little worst as the 2 weeks progressed. Got all 4 tires balanced and rotated... no luck...Took both rear wheels off-- no problems with tires -- checked bearing clearance-- pushed and twisted on driveshaft yolk to check pinion bearing... nothing found......... last resort was drop back end of driveshaft and check U-joint.. It was tight and dry. Put drive shaft in 12 ton press and pushed out the u-joint bearings. Very dry and joint pins were starting to spall....... I mention this because I had checked " clearance" and "slop" and had "no noise" before removal... Truck has 139K miles on original u-joints .......... Something to keep in mind. Eventually it would have worn to the point that it was obvious, but in the first stages of failure, you just get small symptoms.
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Well I've just noticed something quite annoying today... a very slight hissing sound coming from under the rear end of the car. A friend I drove to work this morning even said "what's that noise?".... It reminds me of the sound you'll hear when there is a pinhole in a joint weld, or a clamp is loose? My car only has 2800km on it!
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I already have my suspicions, since my wife's GMC did the same exact thing a few months ago. I hear a slight hissing noise from my dash, when running my A/C. I took the system off AUTO, to see if it was caused by the automated venting system, but it kept doing it. I have noticed it the past week, and its becoming a little more pronounced. System still blows cold. It does seem that it takes the truck longer to get cool in the afternoons lately, but it might be due to it being so hot lately.
My wife's car did the same thing and blew cold air for a while....until the hissing became constant and very loud. Turned out, she had a leak from one of the hoses. Dealer replaced it, and find ever since. I'm thinking my system has likely developed a leak and has reduced system refrigerant pressure. Any other possibilities?
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Bought the truck 1000 miles from home, ran great, checked oil it was black and well used, coolant was milky and degas bottle had some pressure in it.
Drove 200 miles fine, 75mph lots of power, no smoke, no overheating.
While cruising felt slight stumble, and lost hot air from the heater (started blowing cold), saw temp needle move slightly (still under 1/2 mark) and pulled over. Truck stalled on the offramp, and I was not able to get it to fire. I checked oil and it was same dark black. Coolant was low, down to about 2.5 gallons.
Towed it home, oil change, coolant flush, new thermostat, rebuilt IPR, and it fired right up. Ran great, smooth. Noticed slight haze out of the exhaust at idle, and puffs of white smoke when on throttle. Checked oil and it was milky. Where to look?
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1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
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I have a 2004 F150 4.6L... There is a slight hissing sound under the dash on the drivers side when you lightly press the accelerator and then stops. No matter what speed you are going as soon as you apply the accelerator it hisses then stops. There is also the same hissing , only louder when the engine is cut off. It hisses for about 3 seconds. What could be causing this. It has been idling rough since the hissing started. The check engine light is on and showing P0420 and P0430 codes . The cats were replaced with resonators so I believe that is the reason for the codes.
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Bought a 2014 SD 4x4 in December of 2013 and this is the second time the big girl has been to the shop with A/C problems. First time it was the evaporator about three or four months ago. During the last few weeks of the summer I began to smell something strange (like band-aids) when the A/C was on and it lingered until the next re-entry. ALso, began to hear a slight hissing noise when the compressor was kicking in and out. They replaced the evaporator, smell remained as they said it was the refrigerant I was smelling. About two or three weeks ago the smell got slightly "larger", and last weekend she would not cool. This is the fourth time shes been to the shop with other problems such as the My Touch system..............
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Last night I bought 2000 F250, 346k on it... Crew cab short bed 4x4 with ranch hand bumpers like I wanted .... Headed back home (Miami FL ~1100mi) and covered about 200 miles @70-75mph before i ran into few problems ....
First off, while cruising I noticed slight hesitation in the throttle, with loss of speed regardless of pedal pressure, noticeable on inclines. It would go away on downhill and get smooth response again and pick up speed. This went on for about 40 miles.
Then I noticed heater blower stop blowing hot and start blowing cold, without me changing any settings. At the same moment, I noticed temp gauge move up and I hit next exit offramp to check what's up. During right turn at the end of off ramp truck stalled. Pulled to the shoulder, and popped hood.
Noticed empty degass/overflow bottle. Carefully opened lid and water gushed up to the top. When all pressure slowly released, water pulled down and emptied the bottle. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are empty. Engine oil has no traces of water tho. There were no leaks under the truck. I then tried to fire up the truck to get me to the gas station 1/8th mile away.
No crank in Park. WTS comes on and goes off. Cranks in Neutral, RPMs come up some, oil pressure shoots up to normal running position, but won't fire. Tried a while then gave up as not to kill starter and batteries completely.
Fuel pump works 20 sec then shuts off. There is fuel in bowl. I covered 140 miles since last full fill up, so not fuel pickup issue I don't think.
Summary
Have crank
Have RPM
Have oil pressure
Have fuel
Have (had) batteries, now not so hot
It's cold out ....
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