Passat (B6) :: 2007 - Parking Brake Won't Engage / Disengage?
Dec 8, 2008
owner of a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon, 6 spd manual, 32k km's. (leased) I'm having repeated persistent parking brake failures (won't engage, or won't disengage).
-About two months ago the parking brake would not disengage, error message on the MFD, yellow warning light and warning tone. Called roadside, finally got it disengaged by removing one terminal from the battery. Took it straight to the dealership, they "fixed" it by resetting the computer.
- The next day I have auto hold engaged, parking brake did not disengage when I turned the car back on. Had to turn engine on/off several times before it disengaged.
- Took it to the dealership again, had to get a rental car over a weekend while they diagnosed the problem. This time they changed some wiring and replaced the parking brake button.
- Next day the parking brake engaged ok but wouldn't disengage. Same routine on/off/on/off to get it to disengage.
- Back to the dealership again, they decided to replace the brake control module but didnt have stock.
- Last week I took the car back in (4th trip for this issue), they replaced the module and said it was fixed. Next day my wife got stuck in a parking lot with the parking brake stuck on.
- Called the dealership last friday and asked them to come pick it up this time, as my wife and I are sick of the inconvenience of this issue. (we share the car, both work, and also have a child's daycare to schedule around)
The problem is intermittent but not difficult to cause a fault. Can be caused when engaging, disengaging, or when the PB kicks in from auto hold when turning the car off. I try not to use it, but sometimes is necessary (parking on hills etc).
The dealership doesnt seem to know the problem and are just throwing parts at it. What recourse do I have for repeated problems? The manual recommends using this parking brake EVERY time the car is parked, so I don't think it's too much to ask to have it working properly.
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Ok so i get off work and i go to my car, its around 6ish and its reading 36 degrees fahrenheit. On start up the car beeps and the parking brake wont disengage...tried pressing the button a couple times but nothing. So i turn it off and start it again...nothing. Then finally turn it off, let it sit till all the interior lights come off. Turn it on and lo and behold it works! At an ambient air temp of 36 degrees, is it possible that rotors and pads are frozen? Also could it be that the cold temperature is freezing the brake lines? Also the car was parked so that the wind was perpendicular to the brakes. So like a T with the long part being the wind!
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Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
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I don't really know how to describe the sound but whenever I stop and set the parking brake, the car makes a funny noise that kinda sounds like wobbling. It does this when I disengage it before I take off again as well. What causes this?
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The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
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So my parking brake doesn't engage when the lever is pulled. The light lights up on the dash saying the parking brake is engaged but the brake I not engaged. It hasn't been a huge problem for me since my Jetta is a 6-speed but I would like to fix it some time soon. Looking for a DIY? I did a quick search and didn't find anything really.
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I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
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I recently bought a 1997 f150 4x4 with shift on the fly. I bought the truck from an old man who parked it outside his house. I love the truck, but the 4x4 has been finiky. I have done a ton of research and i have done a bunch of testing. The vacuum system is working correctly. I have tested the solenoids and the front axle actuator is working properly.
There is some kind of electrical issue. It might be the GEM (i really hope not), but it might be the shift on fly switch itself.
The 4x4 will engage, but when i turn the switch to 2h nothing seems to happen. Driving in reverse doesn't work. But sometimes it switch from 4h to 2h, just by turning the truck off and restarting it. If restarting doesn't work, then i have to pull the 5 fuse, let it sit, then put it back in. I read that this resets the GEM. (Number 5 fuse, middle row, 5th from the top).
Resetting the GEM usually does it, but not all the time. Sometimes it will still be in 4x4 again after resetting the gem. And then what is really weird, after driving it in 2h (after the gem reset) then turned it off and restarting it, it will go back into 4x4. All this happens with the switch set to 2h. So I have been having to reset the GEM, each time i restart it. (This was going on for a day or so.)
Any easy testing i can do? Do you think it could be the switch on the dash, or more likely to be the gem? I hope it isn't the gem. I don't want to have to pull a fuse each time to drive my truck.
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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I think this is just poor dealer service, but I need a sanity check.
I have 93k miles on my Corolla. My clutch creaks like an old school bus when I engage and disengage. It's done this pretty much all along and I think I had another dealer successfully lube the linkage to quiet it down -- it was miles and years ago so I may be misremembering that.
My current dealer says all they can do for it now is REPLACE THE WHOLE FREAKING CLUTCH assembly to the tune of $1,300. Clearly, I'm not doing this. As long as it works, I ain't replacin' the clutch, but, REALLY?
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I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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This past monday morning I got in my 05 Legacy GT w/ 82,000 miles. When I turned the key it acted as if the starter engaged for a second then disengaged and made the typical motor winding sound. I tried it several more times with the same result. So I reluctantly called my local repair shop and had it hauled over for what I thought was possibly a bad starter. The mechanic went out to check it to see what it was doing and when he did, it started right up…..!! He said that when it started it ran as if it had been flooded for a minute or two then cleared up. Throughout the day he drove it around and started it about 20 times and said it “appears” to be ok. It’s a small shop that I trust with my other cars but they don’t have the tech to pull codes on a subaru. So my question is, what was the cause of this issue? Neutral Switch? Cam Sensor? or a Fluke?
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Had my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
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So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
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Just got my hair cut and go to start my car and the damn thing is stuck!! The check engine light is on and there is a P with a circle and a line through is like a no smoking sign. IT says parking brake fault see owners manual. Well I can't find anything in the manual as to how to get this thing to release. The car is on a slight hill, nothing steep. I know for a fact I did not put it on. Manul says it will test itself if not used for a long time. How to get this car moving? Its sitting there about 2 miles down the road.
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Ok when I stop the car and get out I can hear what sounds like the parking brake engaging even though I have not pushed the button ( i am scared to death of the button) and sometimes when I start out I hear a grinding noise, that happens when i apply the brakes but then goes away??
Is it supposed to be this way? 11K miles on the car and the grinding noise doesn't happen alll the time like it was the brakes or rotors and they look fine, the pads that is from looking at them??
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I am trying to remove the rear rotor of a 2007 Camry, but it appears to be stuck on the parking brake. The parking brake is not engaged, but the pads are firmly pressed against the rotor (rotor was loosen from hub assembly using bolts through the two threaded holes).
I have removed the rubber plug and attempted to turn the star adjuster, but it doesn't seem to move in either direction. Also, the adjuster should rotate away from you to tighten the brake and toward you to loosen, correct?
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So today, I started my Lexus Ls600hl and the lights were flickering and the car wont start. Then on the Dash it has the yellow ! icon and the lcd says Parking brake not available.... The car wont start. I tried disconnecting the battery etc. nothing. Then i jumped the battery and got it to turn on, but it says parking brake not available - see dealer for information. But the car runs fine and everything now - But i don't understand the warning, the parking brake wont engage anymore. I will take it to the dealer tomorrow to see what's wrong.
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08 ES350 with 52k miles has a grinding sound in reverse. Brake pads were inspected - ok. Suspect that parking brake shoe is worn. Any tips on teardown/replacement ?
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I went to adjust my Santa Fe's parking brake (pedal version) and am trying to troubleshoot. The pedal goes all the way to the floor, something like 11+ clicks....
I jacked up the rear end, pulled the tires off, rotated the drum so that I could access the adjusting nut and used a flat head screwdriver to rotate it all the way back to where it wouldn't rotate anymore. After that I clicked it ~5-7 clicks. Same process on each side.
Went to go test the pedal, still goes to the floor, same number of clicks, etc.
Tried to locate an adjusting nut for the pedal but cannot find one, if one exists. The fuse box sits perfectly in the way but I was able to view everything with a little bit of effort and still couldn't locate the mythical adjusting nut.
I know I did the adjustment on the rear brakes correctly so it's an issue with the pedal/cable/nut.
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I recently came across a problem that is not a big deal but enough to irritate me. When I engage the parking brake it will shut the radio off. I cant see to see how the two systems are related to one another. I don't have the brake light lit on my dash indicating anything is wrong with my brakes. I have tried to reset the navigation system a few number of times but the problem is still there.
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