Passat (B6) :: 2007 - Noise From Driveline Or Subframe Bolts?
May 18, 2011
2007 Passat 2.0T, 48,000 miles
Essentially, I get a clunky/pop/crinkle sound from beneath my feet in the driver's side footwell. This sound/feel occurs when I either get back on the gas after slowing down but before the car fully stops or if I take my foot suddenly off the accelerator without touching the brake.
VW told me after three tries that the "noise is from the driveline changing directions, making some noise because loads are changing on the driveline when going from deceleration to acceleration" and that it was normal.
I have seen some posts about the subframe bolts either being faulty or worn on this site and other VW sites...
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So I'm coming from the MK5, MK6, & CC/B6 Passat world. On those cars, they were notorious for having the front subframe "clunk" noise. The suframe would shift back & forth, creating a "clunk." This was VW's fix: [URL] ....
Anyways....I've noticed this about 5 times now I'm on my '13 Passat V6.....when I go to back up into a parking spot. And that's the ONLY time it's done it too.
Going from Drive, I put it into Reverse and then turn the wheel a little (NOT even all the way) and hear a "pop" or creak/clunk....definitely from the front. So my guess is that it's the subframe shifting. Only 400 miles on the car too, btw.
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Have 2008 Santa fe with a driveline hum noise. Originally thought is was a wheel bearing so I replaced what I thought was the suspect ones (1 in front and 1 in the back). Noise still there! Carrier bearing on the drive shaft? Front axle shaft? I'm at a lose.
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I have been recently working on a 2003 1.8T fwd Passat that I have owned since new. I recently changed the front rotors, pads and CV axles. At low speed everything is great. No vibrations or unusual harshness. Starting at about 35 mph a low frequency driveline noise starts from the driver side and starts to get drummed out by engine noise above 60 mph. The noise is not very noticeable from the passengers seat. Initially I suspected a tire, but I swapped tires front to back and the noise didn't change. I have tried loading and unloading the front tires in 45-50 mph s-turns and the noise doesn't change.( I was thinking wheel bearings). I put the car back up on stands and tried hand spinning the wheels. No unusual noise was present. I have not found any clearance issues where there might be something rubbing. I got the axles from Raxles and am at a loss. Could this be a wheel bearing or a bad CV joint? How can I tell?
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My car definitely has a driveline vibration, but the steering wheel also vibrates. All vibrations are, however, intermittent as to when they come and go, and the intensity - on both the chassis and the steering wheel - can also vary.
Tires and wheels have been ruled out with 99.9% confidence at this point... What puzzles me is how a driveline issue in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle can affect the steering wheel (even though it can certainly explain the shaking of the whole car). In the end, it's all connected to the same body, but still... I am even wondering if my car has this driveline vibration PLUS something else (e.g., control arms in the front suspension appear to be a popular replacement part in these cars according to other threads).
Here is a link to the TSIB that I borrowed from another thread: [URL] ....
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I just had a new downpipe installed and now I am getting a horrible scrapping noise when coming off a dead stop. I got under the car and looks like the downpipe is touching subframe heat shield. My question is should i take it back and have them make some clearance or is there a quicker solution. New downpipe and subframe heat shield.
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On my 07' I bought it home mid AUG. It has been getting much worse to a point there is a rear driveline vibration at all speeds above 40 and up to 70. I used to change intensity whether you are on or off the gas, and would almost vanish if in neutral. However now it is all the time.
I cannot feel any play on the u-joints, the yoke has a little play in the xfer case but is is normal like on most other trucks I have owned, and the pinion flange is nice and tight. Could this be **tight** ujoints or the driveshaft itself? It looks rusty, but there are no dents on it.
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Truck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
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I've got a 2000 Accord. I recently started hearing and feeling a hard knocking/clunking noise at the front-center of the car during the correct after a left turn. My trustworthy mechanic told me the subframe is rusted out on the right side and that it isn't safe to drive until the subframe is replaced (he also said he's seen several of these this last year). He suggested that the cause is that the hose leading away or down from the air conditioner is too short, and leaks directly onto the subframe. There is no recall on this problem currently. I've done some Internet research and there is some buzz about this, but not as much as I was hoping for.
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1988 F-150 4X4, 302, 5 speed manual Mazda transmission. I picked this truck up from a teenager and have been going through it fixing the odds and ends, just when I thought I was done a new one popped up.
There is an odd "clunk" in the driveline, but I cannot pinpoint where it is coming from. It happens almost exclusively in third gear, shifting up or down into this gear. It has happened in first gear one time that I can remember. When it happens, I hear the pop (clunk), then feel a slight jerk like when a chain slips on a bicycle.
I spent some time under the truck yesterday trying to locate it, but had no luck. Did find the yoke on the rear end , 8.8, a little loose. Found that the U-joints at each end of the driveshaft were worn out. The transfer case, BW 1356, was quite low on fluid. And there was nothing out of the ordinary with the transmission.
Tightened the yoke, replaced the U-joints, drained the T-case and refilled with fresh ATF and pulled the fill plug on the tranny to ensure it had ATF instead of gear oil in it. It did.
I hoped all of that had solved my mystery noise, but I wasn't that lucky so now I need to isolate it. Seems that if there was a problem in the T-case or rear diff, the noise would be present trough all gears wouldn't it? With it being primarily in one gear, could the problem be in the transmission? If so, can it be rebuilt for a reasonable price?
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I have been hearing a slight "bang" from the front of my car , mostly when I either step on the gas or let off. It's very faint, but annoying.
So last Monday I make an appointment for the car to be looked at, and after the dealership telling me I need two other things (recalls/TS done before they will even look at the problem I am calling about, I ask that a tech be available to ride with me to cut down on the diagnosing time. They tell me that all this work will take over 3 hours, and because I live 11 miles from the dealership, they won't give me a ride, I can either get a ride from someone, wait, or get dropped off at a local mall.
After dropping the car off they tell me, other than the banging, I need a ECM update and muffler clamps for the rattling heat shield. I tell them the heat shield was removed because it was falling off and I was on a long distance trip and couldn't stand the banging against the car. They tell me, don't worry, we'll fix it. I ask that a tech ride with me and was told that, if it's audible, we'll find the problem. So, my first mistake was that I trusted them, and I leave.
About 5 hours later I get a call telling me the car is all set. I ask about the banging, they tell me it couldn't be replicated by the tech after a 10 mile drive. I was a little upset. So I guess the whole point to this story, if having any kind of noise from the front end, or when shifting into park or reverse, it's probably the TSB for the driveline axle washers.....
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It's NOT a truck. But my '97 Town car happens to use the same 4R70W transmission and 8.8" rear axle that the F150 from the same era used to use....
I'm troubleshooting what I first thought were bad pinion bearings in the rear differential. On the highway the car makes a shaking/growling kind of noise that fades in and out from 55 MPH and higher. Also when you're on the throttle there is a howling type of noise that comes from the rear of the car, the harder you're on the throttle the worse it is.
I got under the car convinced that my pinion bearings were shot, looking for the smoking gun. But I can't find any noticeable play on the pinion shaft of the rear axle. Slid on up to the front of the driveshaft and there's noticeable play on the extension housing of the transmission:
2013 12 27 19 06 40 - YouTube
Any chance this is causing my issue, or am I in for some expensive rear end work?
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When I'm in 4 high and I coast I can hear something from the front drive line. It's a soft whirring/grinding type noise.
If I'm accelerating there is no sound . Only when the driveline forces reverse and the engine starts to slow the truck do I hear something.
With my hubs locked but in 2wd I don't hear anything.
Is this something to be concerned about or is it regular noise?
We have had a brutal winter so I've been in 4x4 75% of the time.
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I haven't had luck trying to find the torque specs for the caliper bolts on my 2010 ES350. What are the correct numbers? a pdf diagram would be very useful.
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I took my truck in for a clunking noise in the driveline as I come to a stop and sometimes when shift into park. It is now the 7th and I'm told parts have been ordered and the truck will be worked on when parts come in. I asked to speak to general manager and still no call back. I called customer relations and nothing they can do.
Honestly I think the have me on the back burner since I'm warranty work opposed to marked up repairs. Am I being unreasonable on my expectations of repair time? I called around and a ring and pinion job is quoted at 3 days at the most. Other repairs have been approved as well and parts are in for those, but they have not actually repaired them either.
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I was cleaning the underside of my trunk area and noticed the bolts to the back bumper underneath were spinning freely. Not being mechanically inclined, I thought they needed to be tightened. They didn't tighten. Well that got me checking other panels and low and behold I found a few loose ones.
So, is this a DIY project, or one I should take to the dealership? Since it's out of warranty, I'm fine with paying if need be to get everything tight on the outside of the car. But if it's not too difficult, I'd be willing to try.
If it's a DIY, then what are the steps? I looked around the internet but haven't seen anything.
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Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
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Do we suffer from this clunking noise as well? I know I have rattles and things that make noise over bumps and humps in the road. But is this what I hear?
[URL] .....
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I know its normal that the rear subframe is not centered. mine right side is off by like 5mm. is this within the norm or is way too off? I am running 20mm spacers for the rear and I have to switch the right to 15mm to make them somehow centered. What can be done to fix this properly?
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So I've been chasing this subframe clunk for some time now and have hit a wall on what I can do to stop it. Order of "fixes" :
-retroque bolts
-buy install audi bolts
-buy install TyrolSport kit
-replace every main subframe bolt with ARP bolts
Every time the clunk kept getting quieter or nonexistent but then someone comes back. Like right now I have the subframe collars installed and ALL 6 bolts are ARP. Clunk was gone for about a month and now its back, quiet but still driving me nuts.
What I can do? My next try is new strut tower bushings and bearings as people say that can cause a clunk. just weird how I will mess with the subframe and noise will go away then slowly come back, making me think its not the bushings. It appears to come from passenger side but anything is possible.
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I have a slight problem, my subframe has shifted to the right about an inch. Now, the problem with that is that I need it moved back into place. How to get this work done. I'm assuming maybe an alignment shop, but idk.
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