Passat (B6) :: 2007 - Ice Chunks Starting Flying Out Of AC Vents After Sitting Idle For 15 Minutes
Aug 17, 2009
Went on a road trip over the weekend and had some problems with the A/C. 200 miles into the trip I noticed the fan with the setting on 4 started to get weak and wasn't very cold. After getting stopped for a speeding ticket and sitting idle for 15 minutes, ice chunks starting flying out of the vents. After this happened it was fine.
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OK so my 2003 Nissan maxima is hard to start all the time after its been sitting for a few minutes like 30min or more also I'm getting a CEL light.
See the video : [URL] ....
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier with 113k miles. It is having problems starting. If it's sat for a while 10-15 minutes it's starting rough or in most cases needing me to press the gas pedal to get it started. I have replaced the fuel filter and used some fuel system cleaner to what appears no avail. I can hear the fuel pump turn on at startup, so not sure if that's the culprit.
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I have a 2005 Passat Wagon, V6, 2.8L. I purchased this car used about a year and a half ago with 10,000 mi. It now has 32,000. I have done all scheduled maintenance. About 8 mo ago I started noticing a problem when starting the car. It seems to take a while for it to "turn-over" while starting it up. We've taken it to two different VW dealerships to try and solve the problem. About 4 mo ago, one of the dealerships replaced the ignition coil. They were able to read a memory chip of some sort to identify the problem I was having. Since this repair however, the problem has begun again. There is no consistency. Hot or cold temp. After sitting several hours or only a few minutes. The problem happens about one out of every five starts.
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I have to wait to shift from park for any where from 2 to 15 minutes after starting the car (1999 passat). Is this a feature or if it is because it is too cold out (it has been around 0 degrees F) or is it an electrical problem???
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I have year 2011 santa fe, while mileage after 7000km, i have problem in air-cond, when i returned to my car within 3 minute to 5 minutes and start engine i can smell some source of chemical smell from air-cond for 3 second, why ? if i started engine after an hour then there is no smell, why ?
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I have a 2007 3.3L Sonata.
The car has been sitting for around 8 hours. Wh en I start it, the idle moves up and down about 100rmps. When I drive off there is a slight hesitation until I have driven for about 10-15 minutes. The idle is nice and steady after the too.
If I use a fuel system cleaner, it appears the car is fine for awhile and then the issue comes back.
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I just purchased a 2008 passat, 2.0T 6spd manual last night and I noticed today, when sitting at a stop sign it has slight idle issues, (goes up about 200-400rpms) then back down to normal idle. Doesn't seem to be causing any issues, its just pretty annoying, and everyone next to me thinks I'm trying to race them.
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Our 2004 V8 w/air susp bounces up and down when idling in park for more than a minute or so. At first we sent it to the dealer as a rough idle problem. They sent the car back as normal.
The "bouncing" is just that; the car vibrates in only the vertical axis. Most V8 roughness is mostly rotational and V8's with rough idle usually rock the car on it's longitudinal axis. Also, feeding in a few hundred rpm doesn't change the period of the bounce. So, it's RPM independent. Rules out the enging, doesn't it?
The bouncing is enough to jiggle keys on the dash. I'm wondering if the air suspension could be the culprit. I tried changing the ride height while bouncing and the behavior stopped until the car settled at the new height. That's what leads me to suspect some sensor failure in the air susp.
2004 V8, Air Susp, No Nav
2003 GTi 1.8T
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I have a 2002 1.8T with about 75k miles which makes a harsh rhythmic sound at idle after about 30 minutes of driving. If I tap the accelerometer to increase the rpm and release it goes away and is silent. Recently it also seems to be making the same sound when it starts but goes away as soon as I drive. The sound seems to be coming from the front lower right (passenger side).
I have changed the timing belt about 18 months ago (along with the water pump, tensioner, etc. using an ECS tuning kit) and it ran fine (seemed even smoother than before) but it had a small engine oil leak which my mechanic fixed. I think this sound started after he repaired the leak. I've left the car with him for a week and he just called and said it he couldn't figure it out but it could be an oil pressure problem but I have not had any issues with an oil pressure light.
I have had issues with the P0411 code over the same and have replaced both the secondary air pump and the combi valve but the code just reappeared and my mechanic says he has checked the entire system again and can't figure out what is causing the problem. Not sure if the two can be related but just thought I would add that. The car runs fine otherwise and I have always used synthetic and the large oil filter but I am beginning to think this could be a sludge issue (the noise).
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I have a 2005 Dodge ram 1500 Hemi that has had starting issues for over a year. After sitting for over 30 minutes, it will crank like it is flooded. If I lightly put pressure on the accelerator, it fires right up. It happens with regular or mid grade gas....but seems to happen more when at 1/4 tank or less. It starts normal first thing in the morning or after several hours of sitting. Now along with this, when I turn the key in the ignition, there will be a dead pause, then start cranking. Fuel pump and ignition switch?
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I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima that dies after sitting and idling for around ten minutes. It also has been dying at stoplights, etc. It runs fine if I get the rpms above 1000. When it dies it restarts but often I have to push the pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then it seems to catch and run as long at the rpms are up. I have taken it to a place and due to it's age they couldn't do a diagnostic check on it. I've had the exhaust system replaced (it needed it), the spark plugs replaced, the coolant temperature sensor replaced but still no luck.
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I have an 06 f250 w/ 6.0. Having a no start problem. If my truck is warmed up and sits for 5 min or so and try to start it, it starts fine. If it sits longer than that , no start. But if I wait about an hour and a half, it starts right up. Why would it not start if sitting for between 10- 90 min. Starts fine cold.
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When I start the car after its been sitting for a few hours it takes at least 10 minutes to the ac to start blowing cold air. If it sits for less than an hour cold air comes out right away. Went to the dealer last summer and everything was working to spec, of course...
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This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
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I recently bought this CPO Azera that came with 100k mile powertrain warranty. I noticed startup rattle that occurs when the car has been sitting for 30mins and longer. It usually lasts 2 - 4 seconds.
I wanted to take it to the dealership but I want to make sure that I approach them the right way and won't be sent home with "this is normal behavior" as it happened in many cases when I was researching it. I suspect chain tensioner but I might be wrong.
2013 Azera Limited with 49k miles ....
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Today me and my son installed a new K&N air intake on his 98' passat 1.8t, everything looks good but when you start it up the engine does not idle properly and it now starting to smoke.. Also it is leaking some sort of black gunk out of the exhaust pipe, we didn't drive it but when you give it some gas it hardly accelerates.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry , whenever I start it after its been sitting for 3 or more hours the rpm's shoot up to2,000 and stay there for 3-4 minutes straight, if I hit the gas they don't go down, if I turn my heat on they come down a little bit.
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Should the upper fuel bowl be empty after sitting for 30 minutes?
I believe no. Which would indicate to me a stuck open injector which Iv been suspected of. Iv been trying to track down a miss that I have and Iv been suspicious of a bad injector but ain't been able to pinpoint which one yet.
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I replaced the battery in my 07 3.6 4mo thinking it was in need due to the cranking time getting longer and longer recently. I began to notice this since the winter. I think it was somewhat there in the summer and fall also but when its super cold or the car has been run in a day or so it seems to be worse. Anyway replaced the battery and it didn't change much at all.
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So I've got a 2007 2.0T FSI waggie. To my knowledge, the cam follower hasn't been replaced, at least not since I bought it when it had 64,000km on it. The car now has 125,000km on it. The car shows no signs of the CF starting to fail, just thinking preventative maintenance.
At ECS, the CF is $50. My dealer wants $100 and also 'strongly' recommends replacing the high-pressure fuel pump at the same time. The price of the pump is $500. Is this a scare tactic? I mean, I understand if the CF is worn, there will likely be wear on the pump, but replacing a $500 part when it's not necessary doesn't sit right with me. Or... just leave it alone and see if the CF fails, and get a new engine from VW under warranty.
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