Just purchased my 2007 Passat 3.6 FWD and we just love it but having hesitation problem? This only happens from a stop, when you step on the accelerator it seems to have a delay of a second or two before the engine response.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1999 Toyota Camry (4-cylinder). When I step on the accelerator, it hesitates for a moment before accelerating. Once it finally does kick in, it isn't jerky but fairly smooth, just takes a while before it will go. Other times, when I accelerate, and the car is actually moving, I feel as though the RPMs are higher than they should be considering the (slow) speed that I'm going. These problems have increased quite a bit over the past few weeks.
Prior to this, my check engine light came on. An autozone employee checked the code related to the light and said I have a faulty EGR. He didn't seem to know whether or not this would be at all related to my acceleration problem. Someone else suggested that an EGR's importance is more environmental than functional. While I'm all for "being green"...can only afford one problem at a time, and the acceleration problem comes first.
If the two are connected, and if not, what my acceleration problem might be? How critical is a properly working EGR anyhow? The actual code according to autozone was EGR P0401...
I have a 2001 Honda Odessey with 114K miles. When I step on the accelerator I hear a whistling sound. The sound sounds louder as the RPMs go up. However I don't hear the sound when I take my foot off the gas or when the RPMs are 1,000 or less. What the sound is and what I should do? I had my transmission replaced last year and my wife thinks its related to the transmission.
View 2 RepliesAlmost every morning, when I put my car in reverse and then step on the accelerator, I hear a sharp "clink" sound from the front of the car. After I've backed from the driveway to the street, I put the transmission in drive and step on the accelerator again and often hear the clink again. It doesn't happen EVERY time, but has become very common in the mornings. It only started doing this within the last month or two. I haven't observed any other problems.
The car has about 80k miles on it and has not had any transmission work done.
I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles.
Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure. Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still.
The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it.
I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
i have a 04 ford excursion 6.0 with the egr delete, was stopped at a light to make a left turn, when i stepped on the accelerator pedal nothing happened as the engine was just idling. i pumped the pedal around 10 times and finally got the engine to rev up. i just got this excursion and don't know to much about the maintenance on it. i am going to drain the water and change the two fuel filters. my neighbor is familiar with diesel engines and he said to look at the throttle sensor. i have run this engine up to 900 miles and it has started and run perfectly. i believe the usual maintenance like oil changes etc were done on it. would any error codes show up even though no warning lights on the dash.
View 8 RepliesMy 2001.5 1.8T wagon w/ tip (stock engine, no mods) has always had an amazingly long "dead time" when I gas it hard from a standing stop. It's less noticeable when I'm in manual mode, but is downright scary in automatic mode in that I wonder if the car is ever gonna take off. When it does take off, it accelerates just fine and goes through the gears without a problem.
If I'm in automatic mode, no significant hesitation occurs if I first give it a little gas just to get going. The situation arises only when starting from a dead stop. I've read elsewhere (not here) that this model does hesitate on initial acceleration, but it seems more pronounced than in other b5's I've had as dealer loaners. Any way to cut down on or eliminate this?
I think my car has a vaccum leak. The car cranks ok, but it has a lope to it and when I try to drive it, it hesitate when I step on the gas and sputters, every since I cleaned the engine. I checked all the vacuum lines and found two that were broken or split. I replace those lines I also check the air intake vinyl connection to the throttle body it wasn't slpit. Well I didn't see a split in it. So I put it back together and cranked it. You can hear a vacuum leak sound near the fire wall. I pulled each vacuum line off one at a time and checked them again and found nothing. Could this be the intake plenum? I hat to take it to a mechanic when it is something simple that I could fix.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 LS 460 with about 50,000 miles. Some 18 months ago, at about 35,000 miles,right after a service, I began to experience hesitation/lack of power when accelerating from a stop. Lexus fixed this by doing a software update to the transmission.
All was well till last month, when again right after a service, the car hesitated and totally lacked power , most noticeable from a rolling stop. Revs would very gradually climb to 5,000, with foot flat on accelerator, yet car barely moving. Once speed built up to highway speeds, car reacted normally. Took it back to Park Place Lexus who held the car for 10 days and did a major job changing the cylinder head, I think per L-SB-0033-08.
A month later, the hesitation/lack of power is even worse then before! I suspect the issue is the transmission, and the big surgery on the engine done last month was not required. After nearly being hit trying to merge with traffic today, the vehicle is back at the dealership, and I took their head tech for a drive. He experienced the problem, but did not venture a solution. He told me they take instructions on what to do directly from Lexus.
I have a '99 passat 1.8t Tiptronic. 106,000 miles. Recently I've been getting a bad hesitation when accelerating from a stop. At half throttle the car kinda bogs down and hesitates then as the rpms get higher it seems to clear out and accelerate smoother. At the same time the car doesn't have the same sack it used to. I checked he plugs, found them very fouled. Replaced them and the problem got a little better, but definitely still there. There has to be a reason the plugs fouled. There is no CEL so I don't really know what to check first.
View 2 RepliesAbout once every 4-6 months or so, when I floor the accelerator, my Sonata behaves in a very odd way. Instead of the typical surge of acceleration, it actually hesitates/decelerates for a second or so, then kicks in like normal. This is so pronounced that I lunge forward in my seat a bit before it kicks in. I've not yet been in a situation were this behavior has endangered me but it is quite disconcerting when it does happen. Obviously this is not something that is repeatable in a manner for any shop to diagnose. There is no CEL and it occurs so infrequently that I'm not that concerned about it yet. The only consistency about this is that this occurs while driving around town after I've slowed down to around 5-10 MPH approaching a light, taken a right turn and then attempt to accelerate into traffic. Since I'm usually in a turn lane, I'm out of the way of traffic and can adjust to this situation without any issues to either myself or the traffic around me.
View 7 RepliesWhen driving if you ease off the accelerator at an intersection and go again the car hesitates badly and then slowly picks up it has had new plugs etc., very worried nearly got wiped out this morning...
View 1 RepliesTruck is a 74 250 390/auto tran. 2wd. When I am at a stop and then step on the gas (not hard) it will sometimes backfire then die. Then I can start it up and it'll run fine. The only other times it backfires is if I am doing about 40 or higher, take my foot off the gas, and let it coast down to around 33mph or so then step on the gas it'll backfire once and run fine. If I am at a dead stop and punch it it will also do some backfiring, usually killing it.
Other than these times it runs fine. I've adjusted the carb (I know not correctly) and that does work if I set the idle higher. Is it possible my fuel pump is going bad? I was always told a mechanical fuel pump pretty much either works or doesn't. If it is a possible pump problem should I test it or just replace it...
1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.
View 6 RepliesWe have a 2005 Toyota Corolla whose brakes have been a problem since we bought the car four years ago. Every time our mechanic changes the brakes they squeak. They do not squeak for the entire time you hold the brakes, nor do they squeak when you slam the brakes.
They squeak once when you step on the brakes to come to a slow stop. This go around with the brake replacement, our mechanic has put two sets of new pads and shoes on. The first were the ceramic kind, this next one is the Toyota brand, the highest quality. Why the brakes are still squeaking.
First question, is this dangerous? The second question is, what the heck is going on? We have been back to him so many times.
I have a 2004; 4cyl Sonata, that jerks when I accelerate from a stop light or when I step on the gas, it jerks and sputters while passing another vehicle, then it gains speed?
View 2 RepliesI've got a 1982 automatic chevy 454 engine with only 46,000 miles on it (in my Winnebago RV). It runs just fine except each time I step on the gas pedal from a stopped position for an instant it sounds like the engine is about to die and then it starts going. Is this a major engine problem or something that requires minor adjustments? I want to sell the RV. If it's going to cost a lot to fix, I'd rather lower the price of the rig.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Honda Odyssey and every time I step on the brake pedal, it blows my STOP fuse under the hood (which takes out my ability to shift out of park, use my horn and the brake lights also go out.) When I replace my fuse, the horn does not blow the fuse, it is stepping on the brake pedal one time, even when in park before turning the key over.
Things I have tried: Changing all of my bulbs and inspecting the socket areas, inspecting most of the wiring and taping areas that seemed fine but might have been touching metal, replacing my brake light switch.
What could be doing this?! I have figured out that I can manually shift out of park using the override slot, but no brake lights is not good.
I was a passenger in a pickup truck that seemed to have the accelerator stick as he came to a stop, and it tried to lurch forward suddenly and rear end the guy ahead of us. Truck is a 2005 Toyota Tacoma automatic trans. with the big 4 cylinder engine. It only has happened to him infrequently. Is this a common problem with this particular vehicle?
View 13 RepliesModel 2007 Toyota Camry 4cyl
Milage 121K
Service preformed by me @ 119K:
- changed sparkplugs (toyota part)
- changed drivebelt (toyota part)
- changed new battery (Costco battery)
- changed engine air filter(toyota part)
- Oil change every 5K
- Trans flush (toyota part: Type WS fluid: 16 Qts)
- Transflush also preformed at 60K
Problem: So beginning of this week I was driving on the HWY and as most of us like to overtake while driving, so I stepped on the gas pedal hard. The vehicle downshifted to lower gear and RPM got up to 5 to 6K for 3 seconds then suddenly vehicle slowed down. When this happened it was like hitting a brick wall. I don't know if the engine braked so hard or transmission did. I never had this happen to me.
No transmission noise or engine noise. Car at the moment runs fine. The problem is that now every time I step on the gas from steady cruise, RPM will rise up to 4K or so and I do feel that vehicle down shifts but RPM will drop down to 2K and slow climb as vehicle picks up speed. So during this time I can floor the gas pedal but very very little response of the engine. Its like something is holding the vehicle back.
So I went to autostore to see if I have any pending codes as no check engine light or abs...
One pending code came up: C1241 (Low Battery Positive Voltage)